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Upgrading CPU issue

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So the other day I get a call from a friend who is having an issue upgrading his i5-6400 to a brand new i5-6700. Says the PC will post with the old CPU but not the new one. So I stopped by the other day and witness the PC is clearly not booting up (mobo has power and fans are spinning). I take the PC home to look at and go through whatever issues I can think of that are causing the problem.

Besides the CPUs his specs are

Gigabyte Z170 UD3 mobo
2 x 8 GB RAM
Thermaltake 600w PSU
Thermaltake CPU cooler (the one that looks like an intel clone)

So swapping between the two CPUs I do the following

Use just one stick of RAM rather then two - nothing
I reset the BIOS to default (gigabyte says all BIOS support the i5-6700) - nothing
I update the BIOS - nothing
Swap out the PSU - nothing
Check the socket for any bent pins - nothing that I can see and I checked from every angle

Finally I get tired of installing the thermaltake cooler and wasting my Noctua thermal paste; I grab an old tower heatsink from the original cooler master 212 I had laying around (I lost or misplaced most of its parts years ago) and stick it on top of the 6700 with no bracket, fan, or anything else. PC boots up with no issue. I now stick the thermaltake cooler on top of the 6700 (I don't screw it down) and reboot the PC, boots up with no issue. I screw down the thermaltake cooler with the PC still on and the OS freezes. I restart the PC and it goes into this constant turn on then turn off cycle even when I'm not pressing down the PC power button. I swap out the 6700 with the 6400, PC works fine.

WTF?
 
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Benchmark Scores Faster than yours... I'd bet on it. :)
Too much mounting pressure? Is the cooler touching something it isn't supposed to on the front? Back?
 
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Too much mounting pressure? Is the cooler touching something it isn't supposed to on the front? Back?

nope and I used the same pressure as with the 6400. I tried setting the thermaltake cooler as loose as possible and let the PC run but it was really loose. Would an AIO have less pressure?
 
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Benchmark Scores Faster than yours... I'd bet on it. :)
It has as much pressure as you give it... some have 'stops' so you can't overtighten.. so no idea if its the same pressure or less.
 
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Is it a new CPU, or bought used?
If its used, might need to check the PCB on it, see if it's bent or not, remember people complaining their huge heatsinks bending their CPU's.
 
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said it is brand new, I saw the box and no reason to doubt him.

It has as much pressure as you give it... some have 'stops' so you can't overtighten.. so no idea if its the same pressure or less.
I've installed plenty of similar coolers and never had an issue. I also believed maybe I was doing it too hard but I would say the cooler was just hanging on to allow it to work. I've used way more pressure for cryorig, scythe, and cooler master tower coolers.
 
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I think you scraped a trace. Check the pcb around the screw holes and see if it is damage in anyway.
 
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My money's on a short somewhere with the TT cooler, can be related to pressure but really doesn't have to be. Did you remove the backplate and check that for damage?

The pressure/tightening of screws may cause backplate to bend and touch metal on metal.
 
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Find a different cooler. Pretty clear
 
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I also thought it may be damaged PCB but I saw no visual damage on the mobo around the socket or or on the back end.
 
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I also thought it may be damaged PCB but I saw no visual damage on the mobo around the socket or or on the back end.
Have him return the new CPU and the get another new CPU and if same problem the mobo is probably the culprit.
 
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Benchmark Scores Faster than yours... I'd bet on it. :)
If the CPU was dead, the debug would be 00... no debug onthe board I take it?

Try the CPU in another PC and see if it works...
 

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have you considered lapping the cooler face and then retrying just in case the cooler face is warped and not acceptably flat ??/
 
D

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Reinstall the new CPU put the cooler on properly and try to boot, if it fails turn off power locate the bios capacitor in the bios area, it is the only capacitor in that area that is all the way through the mobo, gently apply pressure from your finger on that capacitor and power it up.

It's worth a try...
I have had 3 gigabyte UD3 boards have issues with that capacitor and from what I can tell it's cause from solder separation on the mobo after the board has a slight warp in it from coolers that incidentally apply to much pressure or from the combination of that and a heavy gfx.
 
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eidairaman1

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Reinstall the new CPU put the cooler on properly and try to boot, if it fails turn off power locate the bios capacitor in the bios area, it is the only capacitor in that area that is all the way through the mobo, gently apply pressure from your finger on that capacitor and power it up.

It's worth a try...
I have had 3 gigabyte UD3 boards have issues with that capacitor and from what I can tell it's cause from solder separation on the mobo after the board has a slight warp in it from coolers that incidentally apply to much pressure or from the combination of that and a heavy gfx.

Sounds like bad board flex
 
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Sounds like bad board flex
Yup.. You can usually get the board to work once you get it set but even the slightest flex causes them to power up but not boot...
And in my experience it seems to be centered around that capacitor...
They literally put it on the weakest area on the board... Between the I/O panel and the the PCI-E slots... Right where the board is prone to flex
 
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Find a different cooler. Pretty clear

I may try my cryorig on my gaming PC
Sounds like bad board flex

I've had issues in the past with gigabyte boards as well, I'll give it a try when I get home. Would a bad board flex allow the i5-6400 to work with no issue in the board though?

I could be the CPU but the CPU works fine when the cooler is simply placed on it and not tightened down.

It could be the cooler but the cooler works fine when not tightened down or placed on the i5-6400.

At some point the "not my circus not my monkeys" principle will be coming into play as I really don't have that much free time to play around with the PC for days on end (especially with no compensation).
 

eidairaman1

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Yup.. You can usually get the board to work once you get it set but even the slightest flex causes them to power up but not boot...
And in my experience it seems to be centered around that capacitor...
They literally put it on the weakest area on the board... Between the I/O panel and the the PCI-E slots... Right where the board is prone to flex

Ive made the mistake of board flex myself, when i installed my cooler, i looked at the edge and backed the screws off a little before I powered up the first time.

There is a good possibility the ihs might be a little taller on that new cpu
 
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