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USB Host Controller Not Found at Specified Address (?)

Trackr

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#1
What do you guys make of this incredibly weird error?



This rig was running perfectly well. I put in storage for about 2 weeks and now..

none of the USB ports work! Nor the PS/2 ports.. so I have no way of entering the BIOS!

Not to mention that the PC either boots or doesn't boot.

And when it does manage to boot, it crashes.

WTF! :confused:
 
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#2
I know this is a stupid question, but did you reset CMOS? I have once had a similar problem, but it was my fault, I 'built' something to be connected to one USB port, after connecting it, the system restarted and then no USB ports would work..

..Ended up with a new mobo, problem was that I soldered the greeen and white incorrectly.

Could it be something that shorts something on your motherboard?
 

tigger

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#3
I have screwed around with USB before and connected something with the green and white crossed and windows just did not recognize the device till i switched the wires around.

For Whatever reason the USB controller on the board has died.
 

Mussels

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#4
bad PSU? something damaged the USB ports? (check them all carefully for the plastic piece missing/bent pins)
 

Trackr

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#6
put a PCI addon usb port card into pc as a temp mesure that should hopefully enable you to access bios
if it dont it might allow the system to boot allowing you to use diagnostic software ect
I placed a PCIe x1 USB 3.0 card. Doesn't work.

EDIT:

Okay, here's the deal.

I took the motherboard out, placed it on the back of the case ON A NEWSPAPER..

And USB now works.

That's all for now.
 

Mussels

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#7
something shorted then. and a USB 3.0 card probably wont work, they're new so i dont think BIOS will recognise those for USB mouse/keyboard.
 

Trackr

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#8
something shorted then. and a USB 3.0 card probably wont work, they're new so i dont think BIOS will recognise those for USB mouse/keyboard.
Mussels, I don't own a USB 2.0 PCI card. You know that.

I can't imagine why I would have ever used it.

My pondering is this:

When something shorts, 99% of the time, the PC would boot for an instant and then shut down.

In this case, it was shorted, but kept working without the part that was shorted.

Only real question now - how do I return the motherboard to the case and make sure it doesn't get shorted again?

I can't very well place a newspaper between the case stand-offs and the motherboard, now can I..
 

Mussels

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#9
how would i know what you do and dont own? o_O

this isnt a power short, its one device designed with lots of safetys for shorted cables, dodgy devices and such.

i suggest just putting it back in the case carefully, and triple checking the standoffs and backplate line up properly, with nothing in the wrong places.
 

Trackr

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#10
how would i know what you do and dont own? o_O

this isnt a power short, its one device designed with lots of safetys for shorted cables, dodgy devices and such.

i suggest just putting it back in the case carefully, and triple checking the standoffs and backplate line up properly, with nothing in the wrong places.
You're the boss.

If I write here again, you will know it has worked.
 

Trackr

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#11
The computer is dead.

I installed it in the case and it woudn't POST.

I took it back out onto the newspaper, and it still doesn't POST.

This is so classic "My Life". Something bad happens, then something worse happens when I try to fix the first thing.

I noticed two things:

1.) When I place the Clear CMOS tab over the pins that clear the CMOS, the rig doesn't shut off like it usually does.
2.) When I jump start one of the pins of the Power SW with one of the pins of the HDD LED, it doesn't cause a spark and it doesn't shut off the computer.

Also, almost every time I power it on, it stays powered on for about 10 seconds, reboots and then it stays on forever.

I've tried 4 sticks of RAM, 3 graphics cards..

Honestly, I have no idea what the hell is wrong with this build.

It was FINE when I placed it in that case. I ran Crysis on it and.. 3DMark11.

Then, out of nowhere, the USB ports die out and now it stops booting.

Why?!

Is it a problem with the +5v rail? The HDD is on the +5v isn't it?

I feel like... even if I were rich, I still couldn't fix this because I don't even know which part to replace!

FML.
 

Trackr

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#12
Okay, first of all - thanks for caring, everyone. The show of support really has helped me through this..

Second, I got it to work by changing the PSU and the CPU.

Will update this, even though no one cares.
 

travva

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#13
hey man, sorry not many people but replied here but i'm glad you got your rig working! i know how shitty it is to be stuck without your main pc.
 

Trackr

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#14
hey man, sorry not many people but replied here but i'm glad you got your rig working! i know how shitty it is to be stuck without your main pc.
It's working because I took out my Q8400 and replaced it with an E5300.

Not exactly a win.
 

Trackr

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#15
Okay, I have managed to boot with the Q8400..

The freaky thing? When I plug in the CPU fan, I get a bluescreen and/or the USB controller dies again.

I also kind of moved the motherboard around while replacing the CPU, so maybe there is some kind of short on the bottom.
 

Mussels

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#16
maybe the boards quite literally bent out of shape. putting it in the case forces it 'straight' and that breaks a weak solder connection/trace on the motherboard.



not sure how to test that other than flexing it slightly when its running to see if it crashes (it shouldnt), if it does then you may need a heatgun/oven to reflow the solder or something (heatgun easier, as you'd need it 'bent' straight when you do it)
 

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#17
maybe the boards quite literally bent out of shape. putting it in the case forces it 'straight' and that breaks a weak solder connection/trace on the motherboard.



not sure how to test that other than flexing it slightly when its running to see if it crashes (it shouldnt), if it does then you may need a heatgun/oven to reflow the solder or something (heatgun easier, as you'd need it 'bent' straight when you do it)
I do have a heatgun.

But how am I going to know which connection is causing the trouble?

I guess it may be near the CPU, but..
 

Mussels

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#18
I do have a heatgun.

But how am I going to know which connection is causing the trouble?

I guess it may be near the CPU, but..
i dont know, i've never done this stuff before, just going by hearing of similar things on the forums here.


get it so it posts on the table, and see if the board is flat or not. then see if flexing it causes it to crash/lockup (i'd test in the BIOS or something)
 

Trackr

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#19
i dont know, i've never done this stuff before, just going by hearing of similar things on the forums here.


get it so it posts on the table, and see if the board is flat or not. then see if flexing it causes it to crash/lockup (i'd test in the BIOS or something)
I'm scared! :cry:

EDIT:

So, I bent the motherboard upwards, so that the ends are higher than the center..

And I got a BSOD.

Should I try the opposite now?
 
Last edited:

Trackr

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#20
Okay, I bent it so that the middle is upwards, and nothing happened.

So, I tried bending it more, and the screen froze.

What now, Mussels?
 

Mussels

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#21
Okay, I bent it so that the middle is upwards, and nothing happened.

So, I tried bending it more, and the screen froze.

What now, Mussels?
put it in the case so its screwed in securely how you want it to work, and heatgun it. i have no idea WHERE to heatgun it, or even how hot it needs to get.


the theory? goes that you've got a cracked trace in the board, so by heating it the metal reflows and makes a solid connection again.
 

Trackr

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#22
put it in the case so its screwed in securely how you want it to work, and heatgun it. i have no idea WHERE to heatgun it, or even how hot it needs to get.


the theory? goes that you've got a cracked trace in the board, so by heating it the metal reflows and makes a solid connection again.
Wait, you want me to use the heatgun against the front of the motherboard, where all the onboard components are?

I thought I was supposed to use on the back..

Also, how close and how much heat.. and for how long?
 

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#23
Wait, you want me to use the heatgun against the front of the motherboard, where all the onboard components are?

I thought I was supposed to use on the back..

Also, how close and how much heat.. and for how long?
heating the back would be best, but whatever position you heat it in is how its going to stay - so you really do need it in a case, since thats where you want it to work after you're done.


i dont know on the heat, sorry. i'd start low and work your way up, let it cool down and try the board and see if it works. just make sure its lying flat and not vertical when you do this, as i think that would help it reflow better.
 

Trackr

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#24
heating the back would be best, but whatever position you heat it in is how its going to stay - so you really do need it in a case, since thats where you want it to work after you're done.


i dont know on the heat, sorry. i'd start low and work your way up, let it cool down and try the board and see if it works. just make sure its lying flat and not vertical when you do this, as i think that would help it reflow better.
But there's a lot of plastic and all kind of capacitators..
 

Trackr

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System Name White Phoenix
Processor Intel Core-i7 2600k @ 5.0Ghz 1.45v 24/7
Motherboard Gigabyte 'P67'-UD7
Cooling Dual-Fan TRUE (Lapped)
Memory G.Skill 16GB (4x4GB) 2000Mhz CL9
Video Card(s) nVidia GTX 480 SLi
Storage Crucial RealSSD C300 256GB
Display(s) Dell 'PLP' - 2007FP | 3007WFP-HC | 2007FP
Case Antec p190 (Modded)
Audio Device(s) Creative X-Fi Titanium PCIe
Power Supply Silverstone 1000w (Single-Rail)
Software Windows 7 SP1 Ultimate 64-bit
#25
Okay, so I placed it back in the case, and it's fine.

I think that maybe all the bending and winding may have fixed the board.

Oh, and the weirdest thing..

The BIOS reset during my installing it into the case.

What does that mean?!