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Vega 56 Throtling after changing thermal paste and thermal pads

LizardTa

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#1
As the title suggests I am having problems with my Vega 56 red dragon after changing out the old thermal pads and paste for better quality ones. I have applied Thermal grizzly konductonaut to the HBM and chip dies and used minus 8 pads on the VRM components.

However the card now throttles extremely heavly as soon as I put it under any work load and on some occasions crashes. The temps of the chip and HBM are fine. High 50,s to low 60,s on the core and 70 ish on the HBM. The VRM temps looks fine too as observed through HWinfo.

However as I said it throttles quickly when put under load reducing quickly from 1550 to around 1400 and then further reducing as time goes on. The power draw sits at only 160W under load when it used to draw 240W when undervolted so the card is restricting power but I can't see why looking at the temps.

The only thing I can see wrong is the Hot spot temperature jumps to over 100 very quickly when the card goes to work. And I have seen it hit 110 which seems ridiculously high. Could this be throttling card? I have no idea where the sensor is so I am having trouble working out the problem area.

I have screwed the cooler back on as hard as I can get it and all of the components that require direct cooling from the thermal pads are making good contact so I don't understand what's going on.

Can anyone advise a solution or is this a case of a damaged component during the job do we think? (Which I hope to god it isn't)

Cheers Frank
 

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#4
I remember a review that there was a height difference somewhere and that it can cause your problem. You may or may not have proper contact or you over tighten the cooler or you used the wrong thermal pads too thin or too thick. Maybe left the backing on one of them too.
 

LizardTa

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#5
I have defiantly taken the backing off the thermal pads I know that much and as for the thickness I matched like for like so they should be good. I might have a go at reduce the clamp torque though see if that helps. I feel as if this is a contact issue but as far as I can see when I remove the heat sink the TP spread and coverage looks good.
 
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#6
You write that you screwed it back on as hard as you could? That could be a little bit too much and bend the pcb to hard so that some areas have not enough contact. I put a waterblock on vega and the instructions explicitly mentioned to never tighten down with full force, however a slight bend is normal.

The hot-spot temp is on the back of the card right behind the package. I think the sensor is right in or on the pcb with power planes beneath it. It shoots very high, tightly connected to the power draw of the card. It´s hard to cool there since that part has no direct contact to anything. I heard some airflow over the back of the card can help with that.

EDIT: I think I remember that the max. temp or throttle point for hot-spot was at 125°C.
 

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#7
I remember a review that there was a height difference somewhere and that it can cause your problem. You may or may not have proper contact or you over tighten the cooler or you used the wrong thermal pads too thin or too thick. Maybe left the backing on one of them too.

Yes some of some cards the diet self was molded or unmolded if he happens to have on that is not molded then he's got the one with the height Gap
 

LizardTa

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#8
You write that you screwed it back on as hard as you could? That could be a little bit too much and bend the pcb to hard so that some areas have not enough contact. I put a waterblock on vega and the instructions explicitly mentioned to never tighten down with full force, however a slight bend is normal.

The hot-spot temp is on the back of the card right behind the package. I think the sensor is right in or on the pcb with power planes beneath it. It shoots very high, tightly connected to the power draw of the card. It´s hard to cool there since that part has no direct contact to anything. I heard some airflow over the back of the card can help with that.

EDIT: I think I remember that the max. temp or throttle point for hot-spot was at 125°C.
In that case I am beginning to think this may be that the tension bracket is over tightened. I will loosen it off and see if that helps. If the Hot stop temp is 125 for throttling then that's not the issue because 110 is the absolute highest I saw it go and it normally sits at about 103.
 
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#9
Sell the 56 buy a 1170 or 1080, problem solved.
 
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#10
Were you having throttling issues at all before the repaste? If not, why not try to repaste and remount again? I suspect operator error if your issues emerged only after you did something to the card. If you had some issues before and that's why you repasted, then maybe you just have a poor performing card. Might try an RMA if that's the case.
 
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#11
Be more generous with your tim next time ,i'd retim personally it's seams ckear and reasonable that you have an un timed patch betwixt Soc and Hsf.
Gamersnexus debunked the pea adequately.

I have been stuck below 50° on mine since binning the fan for a Wb.
 
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#12
Were you having throttling issues at all before the repaste? If not, why not try to repaste and remount again? I suspect operator error if your issues emerged only after you did something to the card. If you had some issues before and that's why you repasted, then maybe you just have a poor performing card. Might try an RMA if that's the case.
Yeah I have come to the conclusion that I have not re-mounted the cooler properly and I have improper contact between the contact plate and the chip. I have had to order some new thermal pads and will give it another shot when they arrive.
 
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#13
Yeah I have come to the conclusion that I have not re-mounted the cooler properly and I have improper contact between the contact plate and the chip. I have had to order some new thermal pads and will give it another shot when they arrive.
keep us updated. :)
 
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#14
Yeah I have come to the conclusion that I have not re-mounted the cooler properly and I have improper contact between the contact plate and the chip. I have had to order some new thermal pads and will give it another shot when they arrive.
Subbing to see how this turns out. I once tried replacing thermal pads on my 7870XT with much (supposedly) better ones. The temps shot up by quite a few degrees! Luckily, I'd kept the stock pads and could just switch them back, which I did, and temps went down. This wasn't with any sort of special full coverage heatsink, just the standard long aluminium strip with pegs on each end. Since then, I don't trust those thermal pads to be any better than the ones that come with the card. TIM, on the other hand, I've only ever seen temps come down upon replacement.
 
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#15
Subbing to see how this turns out. I once tried replacing thermal pads on my 7870XT with much (supposedly) better ones. The temps shot up by quite a few degrees! Luckily, I'd kept the stock pads and could just switch them back, which I did, and temps went down. This wasn't with any sort of special full coverage heatsink, just the standard long aluminium strip with pegs on each end. Since then, I don't trust those thermal pads to be any better than the ones that come with the card. TIM, on the other hand, I've only ever seen temps come down upon replacement.
Yeah they are coming tomorrow the new pads. I have for with the same Thermal grizzly minus 8 pads. I will see what's happens. I am beginning to think I might just have to get it as good as I can. Been a bit of a disasters all round this endeavour.
 
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#16
Right ok I have had another crack at 're seating the cooler and have tried a different technique that involves tighenting the tension bracket up first then securing the rest of the screws for the back plate.

This seems to have helped with the boost clocks now holding at around 1480 to 1500 but it's still not back to where it was. I believe that if I continue to 're seat the cooler I will be able to get the proper position and be able to get back to where I was at.

The moral of this story for me is that unless you are removing the stick cooler to install a water block then it really isbt worth the hassle of removing a blown heatsink design just to change thermal pads and paste. Mileage may vary for other of course.
 
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#17
Right ok I have had another crack at 're seating the cooler and have tried a different technique that involves tighenting the tension bracket up first then securing the rest of the screws for the back plate.

This seems to have helped with the boost clocks now holding at around 1480 to 1500 but it's still not back to where it was. I believe that if I continue to 're seat the cooler I will be able to get the proper position and be able to get back to where I was at.

The moral of this story for me is that unless you are removing the stick cooler to install a water block then it really isbt worth the hassle of removing a blown heatsink design just to change thermal pads and paste. Mileage may vary for other of course.
You also learnt something everyone should know ,if it's a option, always clamp the main die first ie gpu not vrms or heatsink but the best advice is to fit a few turns ,all the screws you can loose ,then tighten in diagonals inside to out and gpu first across the whole card, I've rebuilt a countless amount this way.
 
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#18
I've always repasted my GPUs and laptops but I've never really had any problems like this.

With the first time doing some part it is always good practice to do a test mount just to understand how the contact is and also check how the thing fits together.
 
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