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I just built a mostly cheap computer for my kid with a VII. I had a VII that didn't have a home so I mated it to a Ryzen 1600AF, cooled by an Apogee Drive II with 360mm HWL rad and VII block. The cpu is an obvious weak link but it will take my 3900x in the future when I upgrade. The 1600AF is an impressive lil chip for 85 bucks.

 
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Well, yes and no. Wanted to trolltest 16GB of "VRAM".
I thought about that and started thinking that newer iGPUs probably keep memory dedicated to graphics to be dynamic, so I read it as, "Up to 16GB." :laugh:
 
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I thought about that and started thinking that newer iGPUs probably keep memory dedicated to graphics to be dynamic, so I read it as, "Up to 16GB." :laugh:
I would love if they did. It is a pain to write a vulkan memory manager, so you end up most of the time using the "dedicated" stolen VRAM a lot. Wanted to test if Breath of the Wild works fine with 16GB on vulkan in yuzu, it ate all 16GB while loading the map.
 
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View attachment 152340

I just built a mostly cheap computer for my kid with a VII. I had a VII that didn't have a home so I mated it to a Ryzen 1600AF, cooled by an Apogee Drive II with 360mm HWL rad and VII block. The cpu is an obvious weak link but it will take my 3900x in the future when I upgrade. The 1600AF is an impressive lil chip for 85 bucks.

whats the case? Im looking for something failry small that takes from 360 rad...
 
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20.8.2 fixed the decoder performance and added a driver level Vulkan pipeline cache. I can't believe it, progress after a full year of nothing.
 
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I'll have to try it out
 

redatak

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hi guys. i have got a vega64 powercolor. 2months ago i tried to replace thermal pads+paste. i used minuspad 8 1.5mm+2.0mm for vrms and thermal grizzly kryonaut for gpu. since then i have 95-105c hotspot which throttles my clockspeeds. i have tried many times to repaste the thing but i cant make it works. could be pads the problem? should i use 1.0mm+1.5mm for powercolor heatsink?
 

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hi guys. i have got a vega64 powercolor. 2months ago i tried to replace thermal pads+paste. i used minuspad 8 1.5mm+2.0mm for vrms and thermal grizzly kryonaut for gpu. since then i have 95-105c hotspot which throttles my clockspeeds. i have tried many times to repaste the thing but i cant make it works. could be pads the problem? should i use 1.0mm+1.5mm for powercolor heatsink?
I think so, they used 0.5mm for memory and a different1- 1.5mm very soft pliable higher throughout one for vrm, you likely have reduced the clamping pressure on the GPU die.

Perhaps I missed some posts/joiner's, I'll review and update the Op soon.
 

redatak

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I think so, they used 0.5mm for memory and a different1- 1.5mm very soft pliable higher throughout one for vrm, you likely have reduced the clamping pressure on the GPU die.

Perhaps I missed some posts/joiner's, I'll review and update the Op soon.
is this for powercolor? because i heard every brand use differend thickness. i think stock thermal pads was 1.0mm+1.5mm both very soft.
 

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is this for powercolor? because i heard every brand use differend thickness. i think stock thermal pads was 1.0mm+1.5mm both very soft.
Sorry I thought you had a reference card, I don't know that.
 

redatak

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Sorry I thought you had a reference card, I don't know that.
do you know where i can find thermal pads thickness? i asked powercolor and they never replied. i have spent a lot of money to fix hotspot and i dont know what to do.
 
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do you know where i can find thermal pads thickness? i asked powercolor and they never replied. i have spent a lot of money to fix hotspot and i dont know what to do.
If you have thermal paste and time.

Take the card apart again, see how compressed the thermal paste got ,if it looks thicker than a smear , it's clamping loose, at the right pressure almost all the paste gets squeezed out Such that it's Very very thin almost translucent.

From there you can decide further.
 

redatak

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If you have thermal paste and time.

Take the card apart again, see how compressed the thermal paste got ,if it looks thicker than a smear , it's clamping loose, at the right pressure almost all the paste gets squeezed out Such that it's Very very thin almost translucent.

From there you can decide further.
this is from last time i opened the card. if it helps...
 

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this is from last time i opened the card. if it helps...
Well it's great you have pictures!, you can compare the spreading of the TIM very easily now but how it was isn't in question, just how it is now.
 
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hi guys. i have got a vega64 powercolor. 2months ago i tried to replace thermal pads+paste. i used minuspad 8 1.5mm+2.0mm for vrms and thermal grizzly kryonaut for gpu. since then i have 95-105c hotspot which throttles my clockspeeds. i have tried many times to repaste the thing but i cant make it works. could be pads the problem? should i use 1.0mm+1.5mm for powercolor heatsink?
The picture you attached shows enough thermal paste to render a house. o_O
Less is more.
 
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this is from last time i opened the card. if it helps...

I have a Vega 56 Nano so I'm going to address how I fitted new pads to my card.

1. INDUCTORS

When fitting thermal pads to the inductors, where there is a reasonable gap between the next inductor there should be gap, break in the pads. This will allow more air to flow between the inductors cooling them, ie where you have the blue thermal pad covering the MOSFETS, the inductors below it should be separated two small square covering each inductor.


SUMMARY

It should run ever so slightly cooler as there is now a larger gap for air to flow between the Inductors & the MOSFETS phases.

As an example, the long single pad sitting on your heatsink, I would change it to three shorter pads allowing more air pass though the gap between the Inductors. All remaining Inductors should be a single square pad.

Where there is not a reasonable gap between the Inductors or MOSFETS, then a longer single pad should be fitted, as the gap is too small to make any difference in temperature.

Note what I'm pointing out here is how the pads are fitted to my Vega 56 Nano & R9 Nano.

EDIT UPDATE IMPORTANT: Your thermal pads on the MOSFETS are correct do not change this. This is my error as I got a little mixed up between my two cards & yours. Fit the thermal pads on the raised bump on the heatsink as shown in your second photo.. in other words do not change anything here, my mistake.
 
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redatak

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I have a Vega 56 Nano so I'm going to address how I fitted new pads to my card.

1. INDUCTORS

When fitting thermal pads to the inductors, where there is a reasonable gap between the next inductor there should be gap, break in the pads. This will allow more air to flow between the inductors cooling them, ie where you have the blue thermal pad covering the MOSFETS, the inductors below it should be separated two small square covering each inductor.


2. MOSFETS

Going back to blue thermal pads covering the MOSFETS, it should be separated here too. One pad covering two MOSFETS (high & low side). The reason for this is the same as the inductors. It allows more air to pass between each Phase.

SUMMARY

It should run ever so slightly cooler as there is now a larger gap for air to flow between the Inductors & the MOSFETS phases.

As an example, the long single pad sitting on the heatsink, I would change it to three shorter pads allowing more air pass though the gap between the Inductors. All remaining Inductors should be a single square pad.

Where there is not a reasonable gap between the Inductors or MOSFETS, then a longer single pad should be fitted, as the gap is too small to make any difference in temperature.

Note what I'm pointing out here is how the pads are fitted to my Vega 56 Nano & R9 Nano.
Will this help with hotspot? Because my vrm temps are sitting between 65-70c. Thanks for advice i will try it tomorrow when my new pads will arrive.
 
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your not using enough paste on the HBM. the spread on the gpu looks somewhat OK but it looks thin in some places. I can post some pictures of how i apply TIM on a vega card if your interested. The biggest thing you have to keep in mind is that your trying to make contact with 3 sperate prices of silicon and sometimes the memory sits slightly lower than the GPU die, More is better on the HBM, dont be afraid to "glob it on". And better yet do the same for gpu, it's better to take the 1-2c penitly of using "too much paste" and have good Temps out of the gate vs banging your head on the desk for a few days trying to figure out overheating issues and stuttering.
 
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Will this help with hotspot? Because my vrm temps are sitting between 65-70c. Thanks for advice i will try it tomorrow when my new pads will arrive.

Not sure if that will help hotspot as that is on the GPU core itself. But what I am pointing out is air will not be so trapped throughout the card. The hot air now has an easier escape path in many areas. You still have maximum heat transfer as the heat is traveling in the Z plane, ie between hot device & cooling plate.

If you look at the thermal pad on your heatsink you can see a gap in the centre where the thermal pad is doing nothing.
Yes it's in contact with the heatsink, but it's not in contact with anything hot. so it's not cooling anything.
So what is happening here, the heatsink itself can't do a good job in releasing heat as it's trapped by the pad in that small patch of the heatsink which acts more like a blanket. ...With a gap in the thermal pad the heatsink can do a better job in releasing heat into the air & I'm only talking about that small patch on the heatsink.

When fitting new thermal pads you need to cut them to size & fit them on the hot component themselves, ie Inductor & MOSFET. You must cover the complete hot device to get maximum heat transfer in the Z plane. The closer, smaller the pad while covering the complete hot device the better. A few millimetres extra over the hot device is what I have, around one to two millimetres.

WARNING: You have to be careful when assembling the card back together as any disturbance of the pad when assembling the card back together will result in pads getting pushed off the hot component which will result in higher temperature. You need to be fairly skilled in this area as you must not disturb the pads other than the coldplate being directly dropped on top of the pads.

EDIT UPDATE IMPORTANT: Your thermal pads on the MOSFETS are correct do not change this. This is my error as I got a little mixed up between my two cards & yours. Fit the thermal pads on the raised bump on the heatsink as shown in your second photo.. in other words do not change anything here, my mistake.

2ND EDIT:

Here is how the thermal pads are fitter to a Vega Nano Card. I Can't take the card further apart due to the type of thermal pads this card is using, It's permanent. Internal cooling plate can never be removed, it will destroy the Thermal pads. Look carefully how the pads are cut & note the exposed inductors are not covered with thermal pads as this area is not in contact the cooling plate.

Photo1

Photo1.jpg

Photo2

Photo2.jpg
 
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redatak

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I just dismantled it. Looks like the hbm contact is not good enough. I think thermal pads cause it. But i dont know if it needs thicker or thinner thermal pads.
 

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I just dismantled it. Looks like the hbm contact is not good enough. I think thermal pads cause it. But i dont know if it needs thicker or thinner thermal pads.
It would. Definitely be thinner try a mm thinner that's a gap, an actual GAP filled with grout.
 
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