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Vega64 bios flash

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Hello guys

At moment i have 1080 sea hawk under water block, but i dont like a lot of glitch..

So now i wondering, if i buy vega64 + attach water block, because all system in water loop.

Can i flash bios for vega64 from watercooled version?
bios no locked from factory or etc?

Few years ago i flashed r9 290 without any problems.
 

Kanan

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You should rather modify registry to increase power limit, it's safer and better solution than to flash the card permanently to a bios not really made for it. But yes it's possible.
 

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Might be best to use afterburner for now till you know what the limits are of the non wc card
 

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Hello guys

At moment i have 1080 sea hawk under water block, but i dont like a lot of glitch..

So now i wondering, if i buy vega64 + attach water block, because all system in water loop.

Can i flash bios for vega64 from watercooled version?
bios no locked from factory or etc?

Few years ago i flashed r9 290 without any problems.
No for some reason you cant, I'm not 100% sure what the reasoning is but it's a no go..

It'll work as I've flashed my 56 with a 64 water bios and the card hardly even broke a sweat do to such low ambient temps.

It' worked for a bit then would just crap out. Your best option is to just reg mod it and be done with it and enjoy the added boost in clocks ;)
 
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About 56 flashed from 64 bios i know dosnt work. I seen few video, its only increase power, nothing else, no core clock speed,no ram speed.

So I wonder or works under water block, with 64 aio bios
 
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About 56 flashed from 64 bios i know dosnt work. I seen few video, its only increase power, nothing else, no core clock speed,no ram speed.

So I wonder or works under water block, with 64 aio bios
It would work but there's no reason to.
I have a vega 64 ek waterblock combo on stck bios.
Once you waterblock it, it would run at its highest boost possible anyway and even wattman can easily be tuned to allow the highest boost your chip will do, i haven't heard of any getting much past 1770 reliably and the WC bios mearly has higher tdp(power) and a bit more voltage 1.25wc 1.2air it would not gain much more clocks despite much more power, not worth the stress.
 
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Just undervolt it as much as possible and not bother with anything VBIOS related. Not worth it.
 

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About 56 flashed from 64 bios i know dosnt work. I seen few video, its only increase power, nothing else, no core clock speed,no ram speed.

So I wonder or works under water block, with 64 aio bios
Um yes it works, I have proved it works and even ran some benchmarks..

The clock speed is up just a tad over 1700mhz with the water bios..

I've tested @Vya Domus and your absolutely right, just undervolt and OC the card...

@zo0lykas Here's proof a water bios works on a 56, sorry I cant show much as I'm under NDA

And BTW save the cash and just grab a 56 as when undervolted and OC'd its a beast of a card.

And for using a stock air cooled 64 bios on a 56 works but you have better numbers believe it or not on the bios that came with the card.

 

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It would work but there's no reason to.
I have a vega 64 ek waterblock combo on stck bios.
Once you waterblock it, it would run at its highest boost possible anyway and even wattman can easily be tuned to allow the highest boost your chip will do, i haven't heard of any getting much past 1770 reliably and the WC bios mearly has higher tdp(power) and a bit more voltage 1.25wc 1.2air it would not gain much more clocks despite much more power, not worth the stress.
I think what he wants though is a LC bios suited to a Vega being moded with a water cooler - I don't think he will be using the added head room of Vega LC edition, Vega 64 headroom is more than enough usually, at least if you're trying to stay reasonable with the power consumption
 
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Yes thats right,i wanna buy vega64 reference design, add water block on it, and flash bios from vega64 aio, liquid cooled versiom.
 
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I think what he wants though is a LC bios suited to a Vega being moded with a water cooler - I don't think he will be using the added head room of Vega LC edition, Vega 64 headroom is more than enough usually, at least if you're trying to stay reasonable with the power consumption
I do get what he wants ,im just trying to advise it's pointless , as a guy who has waterblocked many cards and flashed most if not all, and I have a waterblocked vega , the air bios with a waterblock actually runs at top clocks more due to a higher thermal allowance then the water bios has and these chips won't go past 1740-1800 without massive power hikes and a thermal output that requires some SERIOUS( like 2x360(push/pull) rad in my case )cooling.
 
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And here I am still trying to overclock my Sapphire Nitro+ LE Vega64 ... its just a lousy overclocker I think. I've tried everything including a Watercooled bios and powerplay tables for 100% more power and so on ...

The card just doesnt want to go above 1620-1630 MHz in benchmarks ... I tried undervolting to the point of crashing 1100 mV that is for me but basicaly no matter what voltage 1.15 1.2 1.25 and powerlimit I put the card behaves almost the same in all situations ... its like crazy. The temperatures never go above 69-70 and it just stays there no matter what I do.

What am I missing ? Been trying to get 1700 MHz from it for the last year and no matter what I do I'm still locked at around 1620 MHz (sometimes 1610 sometimes 1625 mostly across all benchmarks and games).

If anyone think about what I could try would gladly try it :D
 

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And here I am still trying to overclock my Sapphire Nitro+ LE Vega64 ... its just a lousy overclocker I think. I've tried everything including a Watercooled bios and powerplay tables for 100% more power and so on ...

The card just doesnt want to go above 1620-1630 MHz in benchmarks ... I tried undervolting to the point of crashing 1100 mV that is for me but basicaly no matter what voltage 1.15 1.2 1.25 and powerlimit I put the card behaves almost the same in all situations ... its like crazy. The temperatures never go above 69-70 and it just stays there no matter what I do.

What am I missing ? Been trying to get 1700 MHz from it for the last year and no matter what I do I'm still locked at around 1620 MHz (sometimes 1610 sometimes 1625 mostly across all benchmarks and games).

If anyone think about what I could try would gladly try it :D

Ymmv
 
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I wish I could understand what is keeping the clocks back ... I mean I gave it power and volts and temps are really decent. Also I've tried undervolting to the point of crashing and it only gives +10-15 Mhz ...

For example with Overdriventool I've set even 100% more power it helped a bit but now much... other temperatures in GPU-Z for all the sensors I could find are all between 40-60 degrees.

Why it doesnt want to clock higher ? Where and how am I supposed to test the clocks ? I use Superposition 1080p extreme or 4K optimized...

With Liquid bios I had to give at least 75% more power to make sure it gives clocks higher than 1625-1630 and it reaches for a few seconds 1640-1645 then it settles back at 1605-1610-1615 and all the temps are well between margins.
 

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I wish I could understand what is keeping the clocks back ... I mean I gave it power and volts and temps are really decent. Also I've tried undervolting to the point of crashing and it only gives +10-15 Mhz ...

For example with Overdriventool I've set even 100% more power it helped a bit but now much... other temperatures in GPU-Z for all the sensors I could find are all between 40-60 degrees.

Why it doesnt want to clock higher ? Where and how am I supposed to test the clocks ? I use Superposition 1080p extreme or 4K optimized...

With Liquid bios I had to give at least 75% more power to make sure it gives clocks higher than 1625-1630 and it reaches for a few seconds 1640-1645 then it settles back at 1605-1610-1615 and all the temps are well between margins.
Easy answer, the Hotspot ;) with and aggressive fan curve mine boosts between 1650-1700 with a 35% power limit. I top out at 310W
 
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Easy answer, the Hotspot ;) with and aggressive fan curve mine boosts between 1650-1700 with a 35% power limit. I top out at 310W

How aggressive did you set it ? Care to share an example ? I dont want it to blast 80% all of the time :)

I've just set a very aggressive curve basically the fan close to max rpm and nothing changed. This card is the devil itself ...
 
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How aggressive did you set it ? Care to share an example ? I dont want it to blast 80% all of the time :)

I've just set a very aggressive curve basically the fan close to max rpm and nothing changed. This card is the devil itself ...
Oh around that aggressive. I don’t much care about noise I run 2000rpm Noctua Industrials and game in 5.1 but basically 40C/50% 60/70% 70/80% my temps usually top out Mid 60s. I’ve also replaced my paste with Kryonaut for a few extra degrees cooler.
 
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I wish I could understand what is keeping the clocks back ... I mean I gave it power and volts and temps are really decent. Also I've tried undervolting to the point of crashing and it only gives +10-15 Mhz ...

For example with Overdriventool I've set even 100% more power it helped a bit but now much... other temperatures in GPU-Z for all the sensors I could find are all between 40-60 degrees.

Why it doesnt want to clock higher ? Where and how am I supposed to test the clocks ? I use Superposition 1080p extreme or 4K optimized...

With Liquid bios I had to give at least 75% more power to make sure it gives clocks higher than 1625-1630 and it reaches for a few seconds 1640-1645 then it settles back at 1605-1610-1615 and all the temps are well between margins.

OK. So.....

There's a lot to benchmarking.

Take the red pill and see how far the rabbit hole goes.
Take the blue pill to stay in the wonder land of just doing some gaming.

First you increase clocks without voltage. You want to see how far the chip goes and then add voltage. Must do small 5-10 mhz increments. You add heat just increasing the speed, so voltage only multiplies this effect. At the point the driver fails, it's time to either increase vcore or back down the clocks.

The issue is the cooling. You're trying to go into territory with over-volting. The cards are already hot, adding voltage just makes it tougher on you. Fans on high. Gotta remember too that fans on high can cause issues overclocking, they draw current.

So once you've gotten a max GPU oc that's stable for the game or benchmark (don't need fur mark ect.) you work the memory. The higher that memory goes, the better your scores and frame rates will be. It has a lot of impact on Vram and benching, get it going. Again, no big jumps in mhz. FIrst 50mhz increase probably be no issue, but take it slow. Rushing GPU into X clock speed is not good practice.

Then it's a stability thing. For gaming, you find max, and back down from it at least 25mhz to insure stability, again lowest voltage possible.

GPU is like CPU. They like cool temps. Not Warm to Hot temps. My 580s hit 32c on liquid. Silicon lottery says my GPU core isn't the best at overclocking, and that does happen. This is where the idea of binning comes.
 

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OK. So.....

There's a lot to benchmarking.

Take the red pill and see how far the rabbit hole goes.
Take the blue pill to stay in the wonder land of just doing some gaming.

First you increase clocks without voltage. You want to see how far the chip goes and then add voltage. Must do small 5-10 mhz increments. You add heat just increasing the speed, so voltage only multiplies this effect. At the point the driver fails, it's time to either increase vcore or back down the clocks.

The issue is the cooling. You're trying to go into territory with over-volting. The cards are already hot, adding voltage just makes it tougher on you. Fans on high. Gotta remember too that fans on high can cause issues overclocking, they draw current.

So once you've gotten a max GPU oc that's stable for the game or benchmark (don't need fur mark ect.) you work the memory. The higher that memory goes, the better your scores and frame rates will be. It has a lot of impact on Vram and benching, get it going. Again, no big jumps in mhz. FIrst 50mhz increase probably be no issue, but take it slow. Rushing GPU into X clock speed is not good practice.

Then it's a stability thing. For gaming, you find max, and back down from it at least 25mhz to insure stability, again lowest voltage possible.

GPU is like CPU. They like cool temps. Not Warm to Hot temps. My 580s hit 32c on liquid. Silicon lottery says my GPU core isn't the best at overclocking, and that does happen. This is where the idea of binning comes.

Yes the hotter the temperatures have any given circuit the more resistance in a DC circuit will occur and then the more impedance in a AC circuit will occur
 
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