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Was thinking of upgrading my computer...

Discussion in 'Graphics Cards' started by BlackAzrael, Sep 7, 2012.

  1. BlackAzrael

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    Okay i watched all of the video and it doesn't seem to be that big of a deal to do. I'll probably note the essential stuff from this video and try tonight or tomorrow i guess.

    I'll let you know of my results *crosses fingers*
     
  2. Black Mesa New Member

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    Don't Fxxx with the Volts just leave them at stock settings and start to OC the CPU in small increments then play a game for a bit then if the PC crashes or you get a BSOD "Blue Screen of Death" back off to the last successful OC. Remember if you mess up and the PC will not reboot all you have to do turn off the PC and pull out the coin battery then replace it on the MOBO and you are safe. Overvolting is What kills CPUs because it makes them run to hot unless you have an extravagant cooling system to keep the heat at bay. Remember to much heat is the enemy of the CPU not OCing the heat is what will kill the CPU so keep the heat in check and you are safe. You can monitor the CPU heat with a program called CPUz.
     
  3. MxPhenom 216

    MxPhenom 216 Corsair Fanboy

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    Heat isn't what kills the procs these days. Its the extra power current from the voltage that fries them. CPUs these days are smart enough to throttle themself down if they reach their temperature threshold.

    I guess it does in a way have to do with heat. The fear is that so much power is going into the CPUz when messing with voltages that the heat builds up in such a small area.

    And with those 45nm Core 2 Quads I wouldn't go over 1.35v
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2012
  4. Black Mesa New Member

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    AKA (TDP) "Thermal Design Point" or HEAT that is what kills the CPU when it overwhelms the CPUs intending and engineered TDP. Congrats on making it over complex for an OP whom is new to OCing.
     
  5. MxPhenom 216

    MxPhenom 216 Corsair Fanboy

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    He better get used to it because there is a whole ton of issues that can come with overclocking so.
     
  6. BlackAzrael

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    Umm okay...more positive feedback please.

    Okay then, so if i get the picture, just increase the fsb little by little, and see the temp for a little while (i use Everest) and don't touch the voltages for cpu and ram just yet right?
     
  7. TRWOV

    TRWOV

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    Yes, don't touch the voltage. Just up the FSB little by little (I usually go by 5Mhz increments) and run a stress program like Intel Burn Test (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums...-IntelBurnTest-The-new-stress-testing-program). Once you get instability go to your previous setting.

    Setting the RAM at a lower multiplier isn't required but recommended to get the maximum FSB possible. RAM speed is FSB x multiplier so if your RAM is set to run at 1333Mhz (x4) you could try setting your RAM at 1166Mhz (x3.5) and start from that.

    For example:
    FSB = 333
    CPU multi = 8.5
    RAM multi = 4
    Final CPU speed = 2.83Ghz (333 x 8.5)
    Final RAM speed = 1333Mhz (333 x 4)

    FSB = 333
    CPU multi = 8.5
    RAM multi = 3.5
    Final CPU speed = 2.83Ghz (333 x 8.5)
    Final RAM speed = 1166Mhz (333 x 3.5)

    FSB = 360
    CPU multi = 8.5
    RAM multi = 3.5
    Final CPU speed = 3.06Ghz (360 x 8.5)
    Final RAM speed = 1260Mhz (360 x 3.5)

    FSB = 380
    CPU multi = 8.5
    RAM multi = 3.5
    Final CPU speed = 3.23Ghz (380 x 8.5)
    Final RAM speed = 1333Mhz (380 x 3.5)


    It's possible that your board won't POST once you get past a certain FSB value but in that case just clear the CMOS and input the last settings that worked.

    Once you know your max FSB try to run 50 or so loops of Intel Burn Test in the maximum setting. If you get instability drop back 5Mhz until you get a flawless run.

    This isn't a fast process BTW.
     
    Crunching for Team TPU
  8. MxPhenom 216

    MxPhenom 216 Corsair Fanboy

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    Go and get Prime 95. And run Blend test for 4-8 hours to test stability.
     
  9. Black Mesa New Member

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    Leave the ram and voltage alone.

    Just do what this guy does starts @ 1:39sec and stops @ 2:10sec in video and that's it THAT'S all you will need to do.
    Overclocking a Core 2 Quad Q8400 to 3.0Ghz - YouTu...
     
  10. MxPhenom 216

    MxPhenom 216 Corsair Fanboy

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    Depends with LGA775 and the way the ram is linked to the CPU FSB.
     
  11. BlackAzrael

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    Alright then i guess i'll try with like 100mhz increase to start, should be alright i hope.
     
  12. TRWOV

    TRWOV

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    I hope you meant 10Mhz
     
    Crunching for Team TPU
  13. Black Mesa New Member

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    Leave him to it 100Mhz is a good place to start when he will be easily attaining 3.3Ghz to 3.5Ghz from his 2.66Ghz base clock.
     
  14. TRWOV

    TRWOV

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    Well, he can always clear the CMOS I guess :ohwell:
     
    Crunching for Team TPU
  15. BlackAzrael

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    Well, afterall i've decided to wait until i get the new gpu and the ssd to see if i really need to OC. Then if i need to for better performance then i will try to OC.
     
  16. Naito

    Naito

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    I had a very similar set up to your rig. I found the best settings for an OC are as below:

    FSB @ 400MHz (1600MHz effective)
    CPU @ 400 x 8.5; 3.4GHz. (I would often clock it @ 3.2GHz [400 x 8], though)
    RAM @ 400MHz x 2.0; 800MHz @ 5-5-5-15

    Didn't need to touch voltage. Temps were kept in line with ZeroTherm Core92.

    Ultimately, the price of DDR2 and slower bandwidth of it, and the FSB, lead me to upgrade. Other than that, CPU grunt was decent enough.
     
  17. BlackAzrael

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    Hmm thats good to know, btw SSDs still use SATA cables right?
     
  18. Jetster

    Jetster

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    SATA SSD is what your going to see most but you can get IDE/PATA SSDs
     
  19. BlackAzrael

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    Okay good, i guess i'll have to get another SATA cable then.

    I admit that i'm pretty excited to finally try an SSD!
     
  20. Nokiacrazi New Member

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    Sorry to deviate slighty from the topic - wondering about upgrading my own GPU.

    Would 2x Sapphire HD 7850 1GB be better in terms of price/performance then say an equivalent priced HD 7950 or even GTX 660Ti/670?
     
  21. Zubasa

    Zubasa

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    Actually it is Thermal Design Power thus measure in watts (thermal).
     
  22. Black Mesa New Member

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    ITS ether or smart ass. Watts are not a measure of heat they are a measure of electrical volume. It's (Thermal Design Point) as in the point at which the CPU reaches it's designated thermal limits. Class dismissed !
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2012
  23. TRWOV

    TRWOV

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    TDP isn't the amount of heat that will kill the processor, is the amount of power that the cooling system must disipate to keep the procesor within its actual thermal limits.

    Tcase is probably closer to what you're thinking about.
     
    Crunching for Team TPU
  24. Jetster

    Jetster

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    Just start another thread
     
  25. Black Mesa New Member

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    God you guy's are to eager to be stupid. HEAT is an intrinsic BYPRODUCT of electrical resistance. OCing and Overvolting increases the watts consumed by the GPU and in turn increasing the HEAT produced further pushing the GPU closer to it's outer limits of it's (TDP) and causing issues including automatic clock reductions and blue screens ETC on the 6xx series GPUS. Schools out !
     

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