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Water Chiller - that's her modified for Subzero ;-)

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#1
EDIT: 22/01/2017

delete_me.jpg


Frost ;-)
20170122_023223b.jpg





-------------------------------------------




ORIGINAL MESSAGE: 12/01/2017



Quite pleased with myself tonight, lol.
err... Google...... :respect:

Never broke anything; and it's working perfectly (so far lol -- I hope the wire I used, was thick enough) :slap:

It might just be me, my excitement; but I am actually sure, it is cooling more powerfully too. (Usually by now, with GPU & CPU fully loaded + overclocked, falling water temp would have slowed) :wtf:


Thermostat set to 32c -- but Chiller still running at temp of 25c (for demonstration) :)
After my insulation order arrives, (and I've set it all up) I'll update this video showing sub-zero temps,

Front cover off
beautiful.jpg



front panel & thermometer disconnected
front panel & thermometer disconnected.jpg



First Attempt (brown wire)
first_attempt_a.jpg



What a donut; I never cut wire long enough:banghead:
first_attempt_b.jpg



That's more like it :) (outside left, to outside right, blue wire) this bypasses thermostat; chiller now runs as soon as power is switched on; regardless of water temperature
2nd_attempt_with_longer_wire_(in_blue).jpg




to regain Temperature Control & still have sub-zero
and/or
Run off external temp controller

-If I wanted; I could wire a Ranco Temperature Controller up to a Surge Protector/Extension.
-Plug the Water Chiller in to the Surge Protector/Extension.
external temp_controller.jpg
-The Ranco Temperature Controller applies power to the SP/Extension socket when the temperature reaches what you set it to.
-You can learn how to wire a Surge Protector/Extension to a Ranco Temperature Controller at you-tube :)






So far:
1) Pick a subzero compatible coolant
(complete, 2 picked out; 1 for backup) :toast:
2) Modify Chiller electrics for subzero (complete):toast:

3) Insulation (never done this before -- research starts now) any advice?








~My Dream Machine~
EK_and_Chiller - Grega.jpg
 
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cdawall

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#2
Fix the tubing so it isn't uselessly long in the case and run the same style insulation you have in the cooler on the tubing. The board is a bit more work.
 
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#4
These are great... benchies and temps!


Would it help the chiller if you ran the triple rad prior to it hitting? or would that just create additional condensation?
 

cdawall

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#5
It would help to remove the radiator.
 
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#6
Way too much tubing. More tubing seems like it would have more area for heat to get back in before it hits the chip.
 
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#7
i really dont want to spoil your enthusiasm.
just my opinion
i think you should have let the chiller be chiller and get a single stage for benching thats the only way for really going below 0° except ln² or dry ice
but i see you like pushing your hardware.
 
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#8
Radiator isn't connected. Just left it in the top of the case.. its not affecting anything. Almost forgot it was there. The fans are still left spinning at their lowest setting to help create good airflow (they're on exhaust) and the front is on intake. Not that any of this will matter much during a subzero run...

Evening,

Last step on my little mission, is figuring out the insulation requirements for condensation.

After a bit of research, I placed orders tonight for all this:




  • Duct Tape - self explanatory (this is also waterproof) £4



Total = £40 (after delivery costs about £55 due to all from different suppliers)

Can anyone think of anything I've missed?

Thanks :)


Nick Peyton
 
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#9
Art eraser you said you have some is it the gray one?

You can knead it and it should get softer or also stretch it out or folded over and over just to make it softer to work with
 
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#10
Art eraser you said you have some is it the gray one?

You can knead it and it should get softer or also stretch it out or folded over and over just to make it softer to work with
I was scared to bump this.

Thank you, for following this up, after the other thread was closed.:)

I've found this on Ebay:
"Kneaded putty rubber which can be moulded and shaped by hand. Ideal for picking out highlights and erasing pencil, chalk or charcoal.
Approximate eraser dimensions: 48mm x 37mm"
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Koh-I-Noo...224323?hash=item360e2f71c3:g:mN4AAOSwB09YRvYS

Perfect, thank you. I've ordered 7.




------------------------

On a similar note;


Dielectric Grease - anyone have an opinion on this? I've read conflicting information....

Is it easy to remove without corroding your equipment in the removal process?
 
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#11
or would that just create additional condensation?
It won't create condensation.

It would help to remove the radiator.
As you can see i kept the Radiator.

IMG_20170114_125418.jpg


The reason i kept the Radiator.

Keeping the radiator it's something positive in winter months, i have a 280mm Rad inside the case with 2 fans attached to it, the water that flows into the radiator makes the Rad very cold + 2 fans pushing air inside the Machine through the Rad at 1200rpm helps to keep temps inside the Machine at least 1c less than the room's temperature.

Right now the room's temperature is 17c and inside the Machine is 16.1c
 

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#12
You lose efficiency from the chiller when you leave the radiator in the loop. If the goal is the best water temps it needs to go.
 
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#14
You lose efficiency from the chiller when you leave the radiator in the loop
Give me a good reason.

If you're looking for -c maybe it could be but for what i need it i don't think so.
 

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#15
Give me a good reason.

If you're looking for -c maybe it could be but for what i need it i don't think so.
It's not a thought thing if you run chilled water through a radiator with higher temperature air pushed through it you literally heat the water.
 
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#16

cdawall

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#17
How am i heating the water?
If the air temperature is above the water temperature then using the radiator will heat the water.

Something about physics.
 
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#18
You're chiller will be working harder IF you're running the water temperature below your ambient.. If you're running it anywhere above ambient -- you're probably helping the Chiller... it all depends on ambient. I know you don't have a heater in your room :)

Its entirely up to you, though, how you want to run it.. it depends on what suits your needs the most :) The quick connect/disconnect was a very good idea.

Some people during gaming may have a water temp that will equalise at between 28-32c. If you only plan on running at 18c (for peace of mind that you're a still 5-10c cooler than an extra radiator could ever, have managed) then I don't see a problem with that :)

You probably paid the cost of 2 radiators for the "guaranteed" 18c(?) which you will always be able to match, regardless of day-to-day differences in ambient/weather. You'd never have this level of consistency simply buying more radiators.. but with the Chiller.. you do :)

So again it all depends what your goal is, if you're happy that's the main thing :)

You still, of course.. have the extra power to go even lower if you are feeling more adventurous one day... again.. if you'd just upgraded your radiators... you'd of had to roll your rig outside to get another 10c. So again, the Chiller still wins.. in my eyes :)
 
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#19
If the air temperature is above the water temperature then using the radiator will heat the water.
It depends how you set the loop, if i would have the Rad between Chiller and CPU i would agree with you but i have the loop set this way: Pump/reservoir ---->Rad---->Chiller---->CPU
the last component in the loop is the Rad because in that way the water that goes from the Rad to the Chiller before it goes to the CPU it has been already cooled.
 
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#20
It depends how you set the loop, if i would have the Rad between Chiller and CPU i would agree with you but i have the loop set this way: Pump/reservoir ---->Rad---->Chiller---->CPU
the last component in the loop is the Rad because in that way the water that goes from the Rad to the Chiller before it goes to the CPU it has been already cooled.
Doesn't matter. The order affects nothing. Fact is, that rad pumping ambient air into your chilled loop is heating it up slightly, and giving you a very large condensation target.
 
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#21
Fact is, that rad pumping ambient air into your chilled loop is heating it up slightly,
There is no way that it will heat the water because the ambient air is cooler than the Chiller's water temp.

You're chiller will be working harder IF you're running the water temperature below your ambient..
The water temp it is not running below ambient.

You'd never have this level of consistency simply buying more radiators.. but with the Chiller.. you do :)
I know that very well:toast:

If you only plan on running at 18c
I will running it depending the Machine's needs, could be lower than 18c or maybe higher.


Ambient temperature

IMG_20170114_193825.jpg



Water temperature

IMG_20170114_193804.jpg


Temp inside Machine

IMG_20170114_195532.jpg
 
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#23
Why is this even going on in the op thread?

And 4.5 oc with a chiller Knoxx?
 
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#24
In your case, I concede. Normal people's ambient is usually between 20-23c. I had no idea that you live in a chiller.
I don't use a Heater in the room where i have my Machines, that is why i have low ambient temps.

Normal people's ambient is usually between 20-23c
Maybe i am not normal,:rolleyes: i hate Heaters, it doesn't matter how cold it is i don't use the heater.

A big heater.

I just use it to decorate the room:roll:

20170114_200702.jpg



And 4.5 oc with a chiller Knoxx?
4.6GHz

The CPU it is not mine, that's why i don't OC higher.
 
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#25
What a waste I run 4.6 on air lol