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water cooling list

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i have searched through many websites searching through many water cooling kits and parts, and i choose some of what i come to "believe" would be the "best solution" for water cooling

1. Water pump-----Alphacool PUM Laing DDC-Pump 12V Pro w/ water tank = $195.15
http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-pmp-44.html

2. Fluid------------Fluid XP+ Extreme Non-Conductive 32 oz. Liquid Cooling Fluid = $44.15
http://www.frozencpu.com/process.html?id=3sSA7yh5

3. GPU block-------Koolance VID-200-L06 = $96.81
http://www.frozencpu.com/process.html?id=NnQqZDuh

4.CPU block--------Danger Den RBX A64 Copper 1/2" ID Water Block = $59.77
http://www.frozencpu.com/process.html?id=rzQGtNxH

5. Radiator--------- Danger Den Black Ice Xtreme III Radiator = $132.23
http://www.frozencpu.com/process.html?id=jHezmAub

Grand total= $528.11

so this is the cooling kit i have chosen, my goals are to overclock everything to their fullest potential. if you have any other recommedations or changes to my kit please reply to me. thx
 

POGE

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If you spend a little more you can get phase change. Add a TEC to your cpu block if you want sub zero.
 

intel igent

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in a situation like this you COULD get better temps with less money.

the key to watercooling (imo) is patience and research.;)

keep reading guides and asking questions.

there are alot more places to buy watercooling gear from other than just frozen cpu - a bit overpriced imo.

:toast:
 
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dangerden black ice xtreme 3 is available for 77$ from their site, i recomend you buy from there. lol
pump and res 200$????????????????? wtf are you thinking?:wtf: :wtf:
pump and res shouldn't exceed 100$
block is few dollars more, gpu block is ineffcicent and 1/4 inch

here this is what you should get.
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=17&cat=21&page=1
tdx is better than the rbx by not creating a loop strain with 2 inlets and 1 outlet. lol
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=206&cat=47&page=1
x18 is the best gpu waterblock for the x1800.

http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=4&cat=72&page=1
wayy cheaper here.
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=55&cat=28&page=1
easy to mount res.
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=175&cat=4&page=1
best 12v pump
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=126&cat=78&page=1
decent flow fans
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=77&cat=11&page=1
same coolant lest cost per ounce.
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=61&cat=33&page=1
tubing.

total is around 450$ much better setup that'll run great.

now you do realize that if you are planing to spend 600$ on water you could get this
http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-wat-90.html
subzero cooling for the cpu without a need for moisture control.
and then a 200$ water kit for the gpu.
 

BigD6997

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ya im a n@@b when it comes to water cooling. i wasnt neccessarily going to buy them from frozen cpu though. they were just products i was thinking of buying. thx
thx yogurt for all those links and recommendations, ill look into those.
 
Last edited:
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markkleb

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oinkypig said:
ya im a n@@b when it comes to water cooling. i wasnt neccessarily going to buy them from frozen cpu though. they were just products i was thinking of buying. thx
thx yogurt for all those links and recommendations, ill look into those.
we all are noobs, this is a great place to get different ideas, and learn new things...
 

wazzledoozle

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Maybe you should consider putting $500 worth of new parts into your computer, instead of squeezing out a few more MHz with a $500 cooling system.
 
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i would rather get a water cooling system than brand new hardware or a x1800 crossfire video card. i want my computer to not be so noisy(its really loud) and i want to overclock. another reason is why buy more parts to make my computer put out 160+ fps when i can already get 120+. its like having a ferrari. the car goes 200 mph but the speed limit is 50. plus my setup right now is great, for running all my games on maxxed out settings
 

intel igent

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if its silence youre after you should be looking at the black ice pro3/swiftech mcr220/pa120.x series of rad.

i would also suggest the aq50-z/d5/mcp-655 for a pump.

for cpu block id go with mp-05 le/se/pro or a swiftech storm.

for gpu your best bet would be the mcw-60/maze4.

for tubing you could pretty much use what ever you want as long as it works for you (no kniks or obstructions in flow)

for coolant i use 90% DISTILLED water and 10% automotive antifreeze.
 
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i use rv/boat antifreeze, car antifreeze even at low mixture will erode away at the components. the rv/boat antifreeze is available at the auto store for about 3$ a gallon and is already made for plastic systems so no need for using any water in the loop, just pure fluid.

and for silence the sunons will be too loud, you might want to go for 50cfm 120's then.
 

intel igent

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yogurt_21 said:
i use rv/boat antifreeze, car antifreeze even at low mixture will erode away at the components. the rv/boat antifreeze is available at the auto store for about 3$ a gallon and is already made for plastic systems so no need for using any water in the loop, just pure fluid.

do you have any evidence/proof to back up this statement?

DO NOT use straight pure antifreeze/coolat.

if youre loop contains only copper (no aluminum blocks or fittings) its best to use straight pure distilled water -it is THE BEST
 
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ummm evidence proof, sounds like you're the one lacking that, bold red makes no difference to fact by the way. lol seriously.

look at my specs this rig and the two prior were run on the same type of coolant, no leaks no corrosions and no problems whatsoever.
do you even know what baot/rv antifreeze is?
apparently not, you saw antifreeze and though "hey you can't do that" lol seriously don't be a newb, read!

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3220&mfrcode=PEK&mfrpartnumber=PKROA3
rv/boat antifreeze, not car coolant. lol
"Safe for brass, metal, copper and plastic pipes (except acetate"
see read and learn newb.
"All ingredients are considered GRAS (Generally Regarded as Safe) by the Food and Drug Administration
No mixing required, can be used full strength"

lol seriously again you're the one lacking evidence.
 

intel igent

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1)i have been water cooling for a year now.
2)im an automotive service technician.
3)i have read MANY MANY threads and guides on watercooling.

so please do not refer to me as a "noob".

pure water is the best conductor of heat for a watercooling setup, and if your loop doesnt contain mixed metals thats all you need.

still you have not answered my original question.
 

b1lk1

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Yes, pure water is definitely has the best heat transfer properties. That is common knowledge. The only time anti-freeze/additives are needed is when you are using different metals together. Using 100% of anything besides water will reduce the heat transfer properties.
 

intel igent

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b1lk1 said:
Yes, pure water is definitely has the best heat transfer properties. That is common knowledge. The only time anti-freeze/additives are needed is when you are using different metals together. Using 100% of anything besides water will reduce the heat transfer properties.

thank you.:toast:
 
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"still you have not answered my original question."

which was?
1. define years, believe me you've no idea how long I've been watercooling rigs. try 7years my freind.
2. so if you're an automotive technician how come you didn't know what rv/boat antifreeze was?
3. pure water has been beaten in all tests and applications both on corrosion and water performance, this is why fluids like zerix, fluid xp and etc. are on the watercooling market.
for a mere reference switching from stock water to the rv/boat antifreeze dropped my water temp (sensor in the res. doubt you ever thought of that) by 3C.

4. until you prove otherwise, you're still a newb in my book. I mean seriously if you're an automotive tech (which i doubt don't lie on a forum :shadedshu it makes you look even more like a nerd and believe me none of us need help int hat department)
you would know that antifreeze is rated for higher performance than water alone and you're whole thing on 100% water, please you said your self.

"for coolant i use 90% DISTILLED water and 10% automotive antifreeze"


auto antifreeze is better than water alone, we all know this, however it's extremely corrosive on plastic parts.
rv/boat antifreeze is the next best thing, not quite the performance level, but non corrosive.
 

intel igent

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all i have to say is:

YOUR IGNORANCE IS ASTOUNDING!

:toast:
 
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umm no, i've countered all your points quite effectively, now again you post in bright bold red letters and think you're actually making an argument?:wtf:

seriously you lost, grow up.
 

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i used fluid xp+, its a lil pricey but its non conductive:rockout: , for that "what if" insureance...
 
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fluidxp has been proven to work well, a lttile pricy for coolant, but again as you said extra insurance.
 

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yogurt_21 said:
umm no, i've countered all your points quite effectively, now again you post in bright bold red letters and think you're actually making an argument?:wtf:

seriously you lost, grow up.

please refer to my previous post.

P.S. you may want to read someones post before replying to it.

I LIKE BIG RED LETTERS
 

Lekamies

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yogurt_21 said:
3. pure water has been beaten in all tests and applications both on corrosion and water performance, this is why fluids like zerix, fluid xp and etc. are on the watercooling market.
for a mere reference switching from stock water to the rv/boat antifreeze dropped my water temp (sensor in the res. doubt you ever thought of that) by 3C.

So that rv/boat antifreeze is less heatconductive than pure water ;)
 
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yes being that it contains water and porpylene glycol it is basically a more efficient solution than most prebuilt waterkits offer as this is premixed the conductive amounts won't vary due to user error when mixing water with the fluid.

I will admit that fluidxp is better, but seeing as the rv/boat antifreeze is 3$ a gallon which is mnroe than enough to fill a whole watersystem and a half. and fluidxp is 20$ for 32ounces I'd say the value is there.
 
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