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what is wrong with this card

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Here, i have VTX R9 280 3GB GPU it happened two days ago i noticed that the pc had blank randomly blue,white and black screen, sometimes from the beginning there is horizontal lines..
tried new and old drivers but no luck
switch the bios 1&2 vice versa no luck
tried to re heat with heat gun no luck
tried to use different pc no luck

system that i'm using, it's on me profile...
(PSU Rm850)
 
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It's busted prolly memory issue.
 
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tried to re heat with heat gun no luck
:eek: Sure wish I could time travel and knew where this dangerous, often destructive, and frankly, stupid idea came from so we could go back in time and smack the guy upside the head before he opened his mouth.

Note the last line in my sig. The problem with using a heat gun is two-fold. (1) The idea is to cool, not heat, electronics. This is why a common trick use by many experienced and formally trained electronics technicians is to give a suspect component a quick blast with circuit cleaner or compressed dusting gas - something that gets very cold when sprayed from a can - not hot - and see if the resulting constricting of matter closes an "open" allowing the component to conduct again. And (2), the problem with heat guns is they spread lots of heat across many components. They do not focus the heat on one component at a time. Some of those nearby devices may be very sensitive to heat. So don't do that!

Note the idea about adding heat is to repair what are called "cold solder joints". These are improperly soldered connections that often result in poor continuity through the joint. Re-melting the solder will often cause it to re-flow properly through the mechanical connection, ensuring a proper electrical connection. But this should always be done one solder joint at a time with a low wattage (~25W) soldering pencil. Not a big fat soldering gun but something with a small tip. And it should always be done with the component side of the lead properly heat-sinked to prevent excessive heat from reaching the sensitive component. This heat sinking step is critically important, especially with high density solid state devices, like transistors and ICs, including processors and memory devices which are very sensitive to excessive heat.

And don't stick circuit boards in an oven either! :kookoo: I've seen that dumb idea suggested too. This can destroy heat-sensitive components, lift circuit traces off boards, and even warp the substrate layers within the PCB (printed circuit board) itself - often before any cold solder joints get hot enough to remelt and re-flow through the connection.

tried to use different pc no luck

system that i'm using, it's on me profile...
(PSU Rm850)
Well, if you tried that card in a different PC (which I am assuming used a different but capable PSU as well), then you have eliminated the system memory, motherboard, and PSU listed in your profile. That leaves the card. Time to shop for a new card.
 
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this heat gun that i'm still using for repAIR not a cheap ones.... i did repair gpu's mobile phones motherboards etc etc blah blah... And i know what about electronics.. psu same as rm850.
But thanks! this is not stupid idea heating up the caps,chips with the right tools... NO NEED EXPLANATION I NEED ANSWER!! LOL

4in-1set-909d-853d-110v-220v-hot-air-gun.jpg
 
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Time to shop for a new card.
NO NEED EXPLANATION I NEED ANSWER!! LOL


Maybe the answer disappeared in the long text. If dialing back the memory clock doesn't help then you got the answer from Bill. Did shouting every bring you anything good?
 
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psu same as rm850.
Because, as we have seen here, we cannot assume anything - including the equipment used, the poster's experience, skillset or technical knowledge - or their communication skills :rolleyes:, I am not going to assume I know what you mean by "same as".

So I have to ask for clarification, does "same as" mean when you put this card in the 2nd computer, that the PSU was a different RM850 PSU? Or wast it the exact same RM850 that was in the first computer? That is, have you verified the RM850 in the computer listed in your system specs is good by swapping in a second known good PSU?

If you have the same problem with two different power supplies too, then I stand by the answer I did, indeed already provide; you need to shop for a new card.

If you used the exact same PSU in the 2nd PC, then you need to verify good power first by swapping in a 2nd, properly sized, and known good PSU before investing in a new graphics card.

And FTR, I also stand by what I said about heat guns. You sure would NOT use them for, as you say, "heating up the caps,chips" for that indeed would be a stupid idea! The right tool in the hands of a properly trained and skilled technician would be used for heating up the leads (solder connection) to those components. Heating up capacitors and especially ICs (chips) with a heat gun would surely lead to component damage.

So before getting all riled up, let's make sure you are communicating your problem properly so we don't have to make potentially faulty assumptions about what you mean, okay?
 

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Did you not replace the psu recently?
 
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Did you not replace the psu recently?
Tried 3x 80+ psu 1000w,1200w and 850 all corsairs. Might be the the the first replied right. So assuming memory problems.

Thanks for your reply. It's fixed now. Replaced all memory chips from dead 280. Can't identify which one is faulty so I decided to replaced all. Easy. Btw been mobile/pc technician since 2007

Because, as we have seen here, we cannot assume anything - including the equipment used, the poster's experience, skillset or technical knowledge - or their communication skills :rolleyes:, I am not going to assume I know what you mean by "same as".

So I have to ask for clarification, does "same as" mean when you put this card in the 2nd computer, that the PSU was a different RM850 PSU? Or wast it the exact same RM850 that was in the first computer? That is, have you verified the RM850 in the computer listed in your system specs is good by swapping in a second known good PSU?

If you have the same problem with two different power supplies too, then I stand by the answer I did, indeed already provide; you need to shop for a new card.

If you used the exact same PSU in the 2nd PC, then you need to verify good power first by swapping in a 2nd, properly sized, and known good PSU before investing in a new graphics card.

And FTR, I also stand by what I said about heat guns. You sure would NOT use them for, as you say, "heating up the caps,chips" for that indeed would be a stupid idea! The right tool in the hands of a properly trained and skilled technician would be used for heating up the leads (solder connection) to those components. Heating up capacitors and especially ICs (chips) with a heat gun would surely lead to component damage.

So before getting all riled up, let's make sure you are communicating your problem properly so we don't have to make potentially faulty assumptions about what you mean, okay?


OK
 
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Tried 3x 80+ psu 1000w,1200w and 850 all corsairs. Might be the the the first replied right. So assuming memory problems.

Thanks for your reply. It's fixed now. Replaced all chips from dead 280.




OK

You physically replace the memory modules on the 280 itself?
 
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Not sure. Is it still under warranty that u could RMA it? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Just saw u replaced memory. I don't think RMA would like that
 
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Not sure. Is it still under warranty that u could RMA it? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Just saw u replaced memory. I don't think RMA would like that

Customer gpu out of warranty.

No need to RMA too hassle too much asking from the support they think we're born yesterday. Lol.

Please close the thread.

Thanks for your time! Peace!
 
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this heat gun that i'm still using for repAIR not a cheap ones.... i did repair gpu's mobile phones motherboards etc etc blah blah... And i know what about electronics.. psu same as rm850.
But thanks! this is not stupid idea heating up the caps,chips with the right tools... NO NEED EXPLANATION I NEED ANSWER!! LOL

View attachment 102474

Maybe not cheap in price but still has the cheap heat gun, in fact it's just a $35 one ( they were actually cheaper. A real one will set you back some $180+ and another $100 for a soldering iron.

Using such device takes a lot of practice A LOT of trail and error unless trained correctly.

Anyways cards dead
 

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Maybe not cheap in price but still has the cheap heat gun, in fact it's just a $35 one ( they were actually cheaper. A real one will set you back some $180+ and another $100 for a soldering iron.

Using such device takes a lot of practice A LOT of trail and error unless trained correctly.

Anyways cards dead

He fixed it, the bga ram was bad, he replaced it
 
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I have had dozens of dead PCs brought in because some one was careless in using compressed air can and got too close... the resulting sub zero drop in temperature broke a solder joint OR a circuit trace inside the PCB.
 

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He fixed it, the bga ram was bad, he replaced it

That's good news, and awesome work, more so with a cheap piece of hardware.

I will surly give it a try if the opportunity raises.

And heating elec caps is always bad for them, it's a well known fact.
 

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I have had dozens of dead PCs brought in because some one was careless in using compressed air can and got too close... the resulting sub zero drop in temperature broke a solder joint OR a circuit trace inside the PCB.

They must of been tilting the can or physically contacted it with the wand and scratched traces even.

Never had troubles from those dusters.

That's good news, and awesome work, more so with a cheap piece of hardware.

I will surly give it a try if the opportunity raises

With out correct tools and resources it could be in vain as not all cards that show such oddness are necessarily the memory.
 

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Well if you can get the chips for it at a reasonable price and already have some tools to try, fuck it why not.
 
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I have had dozens of dead PCs brought in because some one was careless in using compressed air can and got too close... the resulting sub zero drop in temperature broke a solder joint OR a circuit trace inside the PCB.
Yeah, and that is just silly too. It typically means the user did not hold the can level so it "spewed" extremely cold liquified gas that gets even colder as it expands on the components - instead of a level can "blowing" expanded (and warmed) gases.

Still, it is likely those soldering joints were not ideal in the first place - or the user sprayed the liquified gases on "live" (powered on) components that were already above ambient temps.

Like most electronics repair facilities, I use an air compressor and a soft, "natural" bristle (natural hair brushes are less susceptible to ESD) paint brush in (or rather, outside) my shop to blast out electronics all the time. HOWEVER - there are special considerations that MUST be adhered to when using an air compressor on electronics.
  1. The compressing process WILL create condensation inside the tank. This condensation collects on the walls of the tank, then runs down to the bottom. If allowed to build up, nasty, rusty water particles can be spewed onto your electronics - never good. So periodic draining is required and all air compressors have a pitcock valve on the bottom for this purpose.
  2. Ensure the compressor is an "oil-less" type.
  3. I prefer upright compressors to keep any condensation way down at the bottom.
  4. ALWAYS - as in EVERY SINGLE TIME - use a inline moisture and particulate filter when cleaning electronics (or air-brush painting birthday cakes or faces).
  5. Never see how fast you can make a fan spin - you can easily exceed design limits and destroy the bearings (I use wooden glue/Popsicle sticks to hold the hard-to-reach blades stationary).
Either way, do it outside. No need to blast that heat-trapping dust, dander, microscopic critters that eat that dander, and the microscopic "stuff" those critters "excrete" :eek: and leave behind, back into your room, computer, or lungs. :(

It should be noted those cans of dusting gas do NOT contain “air”. Instead, they contain difluoroethane or similar gases. These gases are typically used as refrigerants and are extremely hazardous if inhaled. In extreme cases, they can damage the central nervous system, or even be fatal. So use in a well ventilated area or better yet, outside. Note in some jurisdictions, these are controlled substances and sold in a controlled manner, similar to cans of spray paint to [hopefully] dissuade “huffing”. :kookoo:
 

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For the record, putting boards in ovens absolutely works... Provided the problem is bad bga joints (and these days that is rarely a problem) and one is careful and does it properly. and obviosly it's a last resort.
 
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The problem is, you cannot isolate the heat to the just one problem area. So is is NOT a good idea to put a card in an oven - except as a last ditch effort. While it may work once, it is just pure luck no other component was damaged.
 

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The problem is, you cannot isolate the heat to the just one problem area. So is is NOT a good idea to put a card in an oven - except as a last ditch effort. While it may work once, it is just pure luck no other component was damaged.
It really depends on the specifics i guess. I've fixed a bunch of gpus and laptop motherboards that way, but in most cases it was with products which had known problems (the geforce 8800 cards were affected as were some nvidia mobile gpus/chipsets). Again, last ditch effort and it's a rare problem today anyway, afaict.
 
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Nah! Typical solder used in electronics is 60/40 (tin/lead) which has a melting point of around 360°F (~182°C) - way too hot for the actual devices! That's why you need to sink the leads when soldering heat sensitive devices like transistors and ICs - so the heat of the soldering iron does not reach the actual device. And most RHoS (lead free) solder has an even higher melting point.

Even military grade electronics devices cannot handle that sort of heat.
 

INSTG8R

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Bill I literally baked a OG Phat PS3 half a dozen times, came back every time, until it didn’t(user error, overcooked it)2 others same deal, still going.
 

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Nah! Typical solder used in electronics is 60/40 (tin/lead) which has a melting point of around 360°F (~182°C) - way too hot for the actual devices! That's why you need to sink the leads when soldering heat sensitive devices like transistors and ICs - so the heat of the soldering iron does not reach the actual device. And most RHoS (lead free) solder has an even higher melting point.

Which is why it's probably a highly specific problem. I've always imagined it being a result of a poor process, or maybe if it has something to do with the solder being impure or something. I know all these things (I've had IPC certificates even, which doesn't tell you much to be honest) but the technique still works. That is not a myth, it's a fact.
 
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