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What Watt PSU should I get with this build under $100

Punkysmith

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#1
EVGA 01G-P3-1460-KR GeForce GTX 560 (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

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MSI 880GM-E41 AM3 AMD 880G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard

Normal $20 DVD Drive

500GB Hard Drive
 
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#2
Seems to me a 600W should do fine... 750W may be enough if you decide to SLI the 560s.

This is an UNeducated guess (I haven't looked at how much 560s consume etc)

EDIT: After 2 mins of education, 650~700W may be enough for SLI, 750W should be plenty with headroom for lots of OC. 600~650W should be plenty including OC for one card. 500W would be borderline and no OC.

TBH I'd go with 650W~750W so that you have room for OC and potentially, SLI. I do like overkill though

EDIT2: Didn't realize you had a 100$ budget.... let me look
Here: 95$ after promo - 15$ MIR and Free ship seems like a good deal.
CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2....

 
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#3
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#5
If you're going to be running a fairly high 24/7 overclock, dual gpu's, and doing a lot of gaming, I'd suggest an 80 plus gold PSU for the extra power efficiency. The price difference over the tx750 will probably pay for itself through energy savings over the course of a full year.
Calculate your approx. max load based on your planned system configuration and then double it; you need a PSU approx. equal to that number for optimum energy efficiency.
 

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#6
If you're going to be running a fairly high 24/7 overclock, dual gpu's, and doing a lot of gaming, I'd suggest an 80 plus gold PSU for the extra power efficiency. The price difference over the tx750 will probably pay for itself through energy savings over the course of a full year.
Calculate your approx. max load based on your planned system configuration and then double it; you need a PSU approx. equal to that number for optimum energy efficiency.
Double it? So you are suggesting that if I were to draw 500W peak from the wall I should have a 1000W, seems a bit excessive, everywhere I have read suggests around 20-25% margin for peak efficiency. From the Origional post he is not overclocking and therefore I would guess his max peak draw from his system would be somewhere in the region of 400W give or take (1055T 95W although it could be the older 125W, peak pull of 560 is around 207W allowing around 70W for the rest).

I agree that the Corsair 750WTX is an excellent unit and would help futureproof his system and also give him more options, all my point was is if he wants to meet his needs on a budget he can do so comfortably for cheaper.
 
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#7
This might be a long post, but please do read it! At the very least the paragraph with the link

People need to learn that efficiency means VERY LITTLE. 80 Gold is a waste of money for the consumer, even if you overclock. The average user normally doesn't go over 12/7 and rarely puts a lot of load, so your 80 Gold won't do enough to save money.

If you have a lot of money you can go 80 Plus Silver, else you go Bronze. What matters in a PSU is: the power it provides (Watts and Amps), Ripple suppression, % of voltage regulation on each rail (3.3V, 5V, and especially 12V), has to do well in the Overshoot Transient test (no/small spikes only) and finally it has to be built well for longetivity and be safe.

The first point I bring is obvious, it has to be enough amperage/watts, but as I will link to you later, peak efficiency is in the 75~90% range, and depending on the unit, may drop substantially at 20% load, and even further at 10% load. This is important because when you idle or use your computer for web browsing and such, you aren't getting great performance at all, so it is important to not overdo things. Also, you are basically suggesting he get a 80 Gold 1KW PSU... Do you know how much those cost?!?

Then I bolded the 2 most important ones, voltage regulation and Ripple suppression. Theses are going to help you a lot in overclocking, and generally measures the quality of the PSU and the quality of the power that is given to your computer. THIS IS WHAT MATTERS

If you look here: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story3&reid=256 you can see that the PSU is basically getting 80 Plus efficiency numbers except at LOW LOADS, where it even barely passes 80 Bronze (ie: don't buy a too big PSU). You see that it gets good voltage regulation. So far this is a great PSU until... It barely passes in Ripple suppression. If you look after 20% load, this is performing like an 80+ Gold, but sucks at the Ripple test. I wouldn't trust this PSU anymore and here we learn the efficiency doesn't mean anything in quality.
 
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#10
XFX Core Edition PRO850W (P1-850S-NLB9) 850W ATX12...

These are under $100 after rebate, recently picked one of these up myself in the uk as it was excellent value.

Seasonic built too, and gets a very good review at jonnyguru http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=217
I love XFX PSUs, to me they are better than Corsair. I like this PSU, though I have to admit the 3.3V and 5V rails weren't good at all,they sucked, but with an exceptional 12V rail.

I do, however, prefer perhaps my favorite PSU, the XFX PRO750W XXX. 80+ Silver and AMAZING Ripple and voltage regulation, with obviously good efficiency. It is more expensive, but I LOVE this PSU. XFX PRO750W XXX Edition Semi-Modular 80Plus Silver... Here in Canada, this PSU is 115$ - 30$ MIR.
 
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#11
First, I qualified my post very carefully before giving an answer and the answer was based upon long term energy efficiency. A 555W draw from the wall @90% efficiency is better than a 588W draw @85% efficiency, over the course of a year or two (or more).
Second, an 80 Plus Gold rated PSU, will have good VRM and ripple suppression as long as you're buying from a reputable manufacturer.
Third, this calls back to the first point above, it doesn't matter what power load you're putting on the PSU, a higher 80 Plus rating will save you money on your electrical bills over the long term.
Fourth, I make no definite assumptions about someone's usage when making a recommendation. I aim for long-term value. And an 80 Plus gold PSU in the 650-750W range is in the $120-150 range, a little more than the OP was wanting to spend, but a better long-term value.
 

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#12
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#13
650w and please take from well know manufactures, dont risk your rig with unknown psu that you dont even know where it made
 
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#14
A quality 550W would do it honestly... I swear I have deja vue about this setup from another thread.

I would go 650W so you can EASILY pound on any single GPU and CPU with overclocking.
 
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#15
A quality 550W would do it honestly... I swear I have deja vue about this setup from another thread.

I would go 650W so you can EASILY pound on any single GPU and CPU with overclocking.
If its the 125W version, 550W would be cutting it too close IMO In the long term it isn't good. I say 600W if no/mild OCs 650W high OC 750W mid OC able to go SLI. I think the 750W is the way to go if SLI is a possibility.
 
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#16
Its not cutting it close. Not at all.

I will post an excerpt from my review again...:
As far as power consumption goes, the TDP on this card is 170W in reference clock form. I would imagine that number to be a little higher with this overclocked version. My system peaked at 364W according to the Kill-A-Watt meter when running 3DMark Vantage. That was at the full 1.15v and 970Mhz Core clocks and the CPU at 4.5Ghz.
http://www.overclockers.com/pny-560ti-oc2-video-card-review/
 

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#17
If its the 125W version, 550W would be cutting it too close IMO In the long term it isn't good. I say 600W if no/mild OCs 650W high OC 750W mid OC able to go SLI. I think the 750W is the way to go if SLI is a possibility.
On an average peak draw of 400W? I dont see how that is cutting it fine TBH, just my opinion, I am not arguing against the fact that having a margin is of course good,.
 

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#18
I'd go with 650 watts and a reputable maker.
 
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#19
Its not cutting it close. Not at all.

I will post an excerpt from my review again...:

http://www.overclockers.com/pny-560ti-oc2-video-card-review/
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NVIDIA/GeForce_GTX_560_Ti/25.html

202W + if the card is a factory OCed, you have to add to that.Note that when I am saying cutting it close, this includes having a margin (not letting the PSU have 90+ load), capacitator aging, as well as peak load with USB devices pulling power and LED fans and cold cathodes and Blurays that are being burnt. I keep my computer for a long time, so aging is a big factor, perhaps I am exaggerating a tad bit. Everybody OCs after a whle also :p My "no OC" is really a SMALL OC.

Considering the budget, 650W~750W is easily achievable goal.
 
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#20
202w was with an unrealistic 24/7 load...furmark. as you can see by my numbers, with a HEAVY overclock on both the cpu and gpu, there is plenty of headroom for those extras... not remotely what I would call cutting it close even with peripherals (which usb uses 5vbSB i believe not taking away from 12v). don't believe the hype! also, my psu is 90% efficient, so the real load on the psu is around 320W. ;)

That said... if he can afford 650w it cant hurt!
 
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#21
Depends on his use... If he decides to Fold and WCG etc, the Furmark #s would be closer to reality.

However I did exaggerate :eek: I use a "75% rule" which basically means that Maximum<75% of lower-Watt PSUs. I considered maximum at 425W. Also, cheapo 550W PSU are 25A on the 12V, which would NOT be enough for CPU+ GPU (10.xx A + 16.xx A). 550W will work fine, I'm just used to that Max<75%, and I often keep lower-Watt PSUs 10 years, 5 years of which are 24/7. For higher-Watt I use 80%ish depending on the PSU quality, as I only keep the for up to 5 years :p

I also have a Max > 50% preferably 60% rule :p

@EarthDog

I'll still argue that 80+ Gold is not important in this case UNLESS he uses his computer at load 24/7. If not, the energy savings is not worth the premium cost
 
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#22
I hear you... I do....

But f@h loads are still not close to furmark.

Everyone here including myself mentioned quality units already too.

I mentioned my efficiency rating only to show a closer # to actual watts and no other reason.

:)
 
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#23
I hear you... I do....

But f@h loads are still not close to furmark.

Everyone here including myself mentioned quality units already too.

I mentioned my efficiency rating only to show a closer # to actual watts and no other reason.

:)
You are right, f@h is not close to furmark, but the 200W peak CAN happen on intensive GPU using applications, though it wouldn't be longer than seconds. I personally use my computer for many different reasons than I originally did, some require more GPU power than games use at times, and are closer to furmark than game power draw. It depends on your use, and you have to factor in the POSSIBILITY of perhaps one day using your hardware to it's peak. I don't know much about his use, I therefore assume there is a possibility of peak use. This is just to be on the safe side ofc.

Yes, quality units were mentioned

I do not understand your efficiency rating argument. PSUs are rated from DC power draw (ie: 550W DC)
 

cdawall

where the hell are my stars
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#24
a good quality 500w is more than enough. just to put things into perspective my HTPC is on a 450w Silverstone.

Xeon X3440@4ghz
GB Mini ITX
2x2GB DDR3
2x1TB, 1x1.5TB, 1x32GB SSD
GTX 470 OC'd (alot)

runs fine in games etc been running that way stable for over a year now.
 
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#25
You are right, f@h is not close to furmark, but the 200W peak CAN happen on intensive GPU using applications, though it wouldn't be longer than seconds. I personally use my computer for many different reasons than I originally did, some require more GPU power than games use at times, and are closer to furmark than game power draw. It depends on your use, and you have to factor in the POSSIBILITY of perhaps one day using your hardware to it's peak. I don't know much about his use, I therefore assume there is a possibility of peak use. This is just to be on the safe side ofc.

Yes, quality units were mentioned

I do not understand your efficiency rating argument. PSUs are rated from DC power draw (ie: 550W DC)
ok.. last response...

No. There isn't an app I have run across including games, rendering, f@h, nothing that puts the amount of stress that furmark does. Even if something can POSSIBLY touch that, a 500/550w quality Psu will easily handle the setup andhave enough headroom to run the Psu around 75% or less with normal loads/use.

Im no expert on pus's. But in benching I have maxed out and then some wattage rattlings so im not sure what u r saying in regards to dc wattage. If my pc needs 500w from the Psu, and the Psu is 90% efficient, its pulling 550w at the wall.



0w efficient Psu