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Where can I find the AM4 socket pinout

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#26
Just a small correction here:

If a pin gets stuck or get trap in the hole you do not need to de-soldered the socket & fit a new one. What you have to do is figure out how to remove the top part of the socket without breaking it. This is something I have not figure out yet, but i'm sure I can do it when I have time. Anyone taking apart an old socket please update thread how you did it, & were you able to put it back together "without breaking anything".
 
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#27
It's been a long while but what I did was use a soldering station with a really thin steel nail.
With the CPU secure I heated the nail with a butane torch while blocking the flame from the CPU and placed the sharp tip directly where the old pin broke I then used a long piece of 26g copper.
 
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#28
Just a small correction here:

If a pin gets stuck or get trap in the hole you do not need to de-soldered the socket & fit a new one. What you have to do is figure out how to remove the top part of the socket without breaking it. This is something I have not figure out yet, but i'm sure I can do it when I have time. Anyone taking apart an old socket please update thread how you did it, & were you able to put it back together "without breaking anything".
I've managed to do it once or twice and it's not easy to do, most of the time the plastic cover will split/break to an extent but with the few I've done the cover could be set back on anyway and still do it's job. The cover after that will come off easily enough yet still remain in place - Just not as well as it did before.
As long as the CPU is in the socket it's not a problem but with one I've done it has an issue of the arm not exactly locking down but it still tends to hold the chip with pressure like it should - You just don't get the "Click" it should have.

You also make a good point about the intermittent contact vs soldering it, the instance I referred to was described a temporary fix at best. It could work as long as it's not disturbed and OC'ed at all but I have to agree, if it can be soldered that would be the best fix.

Luckily that pin is on the edge of the chip and that would make the fix easier to do.

I've thought before about making a mold/casting of a chip/chip's pins from something like JB Weld/kneadable putty with an already dead (With no pins bent/missing) chip of the same socket. This way once this "Mold" has set, you simply place the chip in it then insert the replacement pin in the correct hole in the mold itself and apply heat to the new pin. Most likely the putty would be the thing and with a touch of saran or similar wrap it can be done without it sticking to the chip and this mold can be lifted off the chip without distorting it before it completely sets.

You'd have to pre-tin the pin at it's bottom with flux before placing it in but would work, biggest worry you'd have is another pin(s) getting too hot and falling over/out. The mold would keep them all in place eliminating this potential issue...... If it works.

I do have a couple of chips with badly bent/broken pins I could try it with one day and see.
 
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#29
I've popped the cover off a Socket 478 before and been able to put it back on well enough to be used again. I can't say it was "good as new". But it worked fine if you were gentle with it. I'm not sure there's a way to do it without at least a slight amount of damage. There must be. Maybe with a heat gun or something. Get the plastic a little bendy so it won't crack when you pry on it.

Anyhow. I just had an idea on how to stick a pin on their without solder. I know I've seen some conductive adhesive somewhere(I'll see if I can find it again). But I hear that conductive paint has got some stick to it too. They advertise it as being good for touching up contact pads and such. So if it'll withstand plugging/unplugging stuff without peeling off, it might hold a pin on pretty good too. But I've never broke down and bought any of it to try out yet. I've always found another way to fix what's broke. So maybe it's not the best idea. I dunno...just throwin' it out there.

Here's some of that electrically conductive adhesive I was talking about.
https://www.aitechnology.com/product-category/electrically-conductive-adhesives/

Holy crap! Just noticed the price. :eek:
 
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#30
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#31
You'd have to pre-tin the pin at it's bottom with flux before placing it in but would work, biggest worry you'd have is another pin(s) getting too hot and falling over/out. The mold would keep them all in place eliminating this potential issue...... If it works. I do have a couple of chips with badly bent/broken pins I could try it with one day and see.
More pins falling over is more likely if you use a hot air gun. I'v never use one. Full Infrared will not blow the other pins over, even thou a small number will be at the de-soldering point, but most pins are shielded.

I have one more experiment to carry out. It involves a de-soldering gun where the tip is filed down in such a way that it can get in between the fine gaps between the CPU pins. This experiment is to see if I can heat-up & suck any pin on the CPU. No-one should try this as my de-soldering gun has interchangeable soldering tips. So if I break it, all I have to do is buy a new tip.
 
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#32
The mold would prevent pin-fall from happening regardless of method used to heat the pin(s) and yes, infrared is probrably the best way, esp if having to do alot of them at one time.

The idea I have in mind is this:
In the case of a single pin like this the method would be to apply a tiny amount of flux to the pinpad on the chip itself and then set the chip into the mold.
Then you would drop a tiny sliver of solder into the pin hole and then drop the pin itself in. You'd then simply hold a soldering iron tip to the pin itself letting the heat from it get the pin hot and the solder should melt because copper is an excellent conductor of heat. Once finished and the chip has cooled, simply remove the chip from the mold - All done.

I need to try it one day and confirm whether it would work that way or not, however using infrared is an excellent suggestion. Using infrared is the same method used to remove and set back in place chips for a Playstation 3 when you'd have to reball it to fix overheating issues with the red LED of death those have.
I'm currently making plans to create such a station for myself and the few PS3's I have here that's in need of this fix.
 
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#33
Take it to a store and see if they'll try it in a mobo for you.
 
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#34
Just me but I would sell it. I've see people pay way too much for stuff like this, and you could end up with a board and CPU that don't work.
 
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#35
It seems everything is ok. She is up running now. Been tested, stressed etc etc. So no need to put pinon the socket. What do you think? Temps are good too with stock Cooler.
15523902430622823438590714552646.jpg
15523902747082967674552470775602.jpg
15523908602238532983591547303349.jpg
 
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#36
If it's working, no need to worry about it.
It's the same thing as what I have with this setup, it does have a couple of pins broken out of the socket (Intel) but functionality isn't affected - The system does everything it's supposed to.

Enjoy the setup because it looks like it's "Case Closed" with yours.
 
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#37
Cinebench score. Quite impressive

15523914784943680714799504611116.jpg
 
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#38
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#39
Please close this topic. Thanks
 
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#40
The following video is not recommend for repairs, as there are pros & cons in this kind of repair. The video is simply the show the base of a broken pin can be removed.

 
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