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Would replacing my GTX260's TIM with MX2 help temps on stock cooler?

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#1
UPDATE:

Okay, I've just come to doing this, but There is one screw I cant get out. :cry: have tried loads of different screwdrivers, it wont budge. :(
And the more i try the worse the bore is getting.

Any ideas. :ohwell:

__________________

As title says. i want to see if I can get my temps even lower without buying an aftermarket cooler.

Only thing I'm worried about is the ram chips. Am I right in thinking they use pads?
I take it I cant replace that with tim cus it wont make contact?
Are they reusable? Or should/can I pickup replacements? or maybe better ones?

:toast:
 
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hat

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#2
Well I've seen horror stories of how the video card manufacturers use enough TIM on the core of one card that would be enough to go around for like 100 cards... cleaning up all that TIM and doing a good application on the core would lower the core temp which would benefit the whole card overall really. The memory probably does use some kind of sticky pad... I dunno if they would make contact or not if you used TIM.
 
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#3
Found some pics of the board and cooler:



Anyone replaced the TIM on their GTX 260 or GTX 280?

Can you get decent ( :roll: ) thermal pads?
Are these thermal pads? Not sure, it has (outdents?) for the ram, but I dont know whether MX2 could be used to make contact for Core/ram/VRM.

:toast:
 
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#4
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#5
Not sure if their is alot of difrence in them vs 8800/9800 cards, but I just redid both my cards made 6-9c difrence in temps.
I just left the pads as they were, they dont stick to the memery chips so you should be fine.
I used probly 1/4th the TIM as EVGA did.
 

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#6
Arctic Silver 5 will drop it 5-7C just on the core. you can reuse the pads on the rams etc.. Thermal pads comes in rolls and can be quiet expensive.
 
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#7
Okay cool. I'll give it a go tomorrow. Have read that its quite difficult to get the cooler off a GTX260 cus of tabs or something. Will clean it up and put some MX2 on the core, try to keep pads intact.
Whats the best method for applying? I use Pea method for CPU, but I beleive the gfx card doesnt have the same clamping pressure so wont spread as well. is it best to go back to the old blade technique?

Cheers.
 

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#8
well for those huge nvidia chip i put 2 small lines to make an X in the middle if you clean it well enough it will spread out through the whole chip.
 
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#9
well for those huge nvidia chip i put 2 small lines to make an X in the middle if you clean it well enough it will spread out through the whole chip.
So have you done this yourself on a GTX2x0?
 

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#10
yah on the GTX280 OC'd the hell out of it after i put the AS5 on ofcourse ^___~
don't forget the 2 screws by the air exhaust on top of the DVI connectors.


The nvidia chip are huge compared to the ATI ones which I replace the compounds on everyone of them. With ATI chips i just put a lil dot in the middle and that does it.
 
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#11
Well only reason I'm looking at doing it is cus its the first time I have a card from an MF that doesnt void your warranty by taking off the stock cooler. :D
Will have to see how temps drop. Got a 5*C drop by getting my new case, hopefully get another 5 by changing the tim! :)
 

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#12
what kind of ambient temperature you have there in the UK right now ? It's 94 F during the day here in Texas.
 
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#13
Its about 15- 20*C here atm. My CPU temp is apparently 17*C tho, lol. Pretty sure its 10*C out. Stupid asus bios :shadedshu

Once PC has been on an hour or so, GPU temp never goes above 50*C, whether OC'd or on stock. just stays at 50*C all the time on idle. Dunno if that is something to do with the Automatic Fan speed.
 
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#14
Okay, I've just come to doing this, but There is one screw I cant get out. :cry: have tried loads of different screwdrivers, it wont budge. :(
And the more i try the worse the bore is getting.

Any ideas. :ohwell:
 

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#15
which one is it take a picture.
 
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#16
One in from top left. :( (bore looks really bad in picture :eek: )



:toast:
 

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#17
man that looks pretty bad. put the 2 screws on either side of it back in and try to turn that one slowly. What kind of screw drivers are you using anyways > p
 
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#18
man that looks pretty bad. put the 2 screws on either side of it back in and try to turn that one slowly. What kind of screw drivers are you using anyways > p
The really little ones that you use for clocks/glasses etc.

Will try what you said now.
 
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#19
Nope wont budge! :cry:

Man this sucks. :(

I may as well just give up and put it back together, its like its been screwed in with a pneumatic screwdriver! :mad:
 

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#20
when i did mine it was easy to come off like i didn't have to put any pressure on it. Sorry it didn't work out for you there buddy.
 

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Memory 2 X 2GB OCZ Reaper PC2-8500 1080MHz 5-5-5-15-2T 2.1V
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#21
Nope wont budge! :cry:

Man this sucks. :(

I may as well just give up and put it back together, its like its been screwed in with a pneumatic screwdriver! :mad:
I had a brain fart...

What if you were to cut a slot in the top of the screw and then just use a regular slot head screwdriver to get it out? See the red line I added to your pic below.

What I had in mind was:

1) Get a dremel tool with a mini cutting disc and some safety glasses.

2) Using the dremel tool parallel to the board cut a slot in the middle of the screwhead. (did I mention the safety glasses? )

3) Use an approprate slot head screwdriver with a snug fit in the slot to back out the pesky screw.

4) Throw said "pesky screw" into waste basket.

Just a thought.

I have a GTX 260 on its way to me so I will probably end up changing it over to my watercooling block and will need to be really careful with these screws. Are they Philips head (i.e. cross shaped)?
 

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#22
I had a brain fart...

What if you were to cut a slot in the top of the screw and then just use a regular slot head screwdriver to get it out? See the red line I added to your pic below.

What I had in mind was:

1) Get a dremel tool with a mini cutting disc and some safety glasses.

2) Using the dremel tool parallel to the board cut a slot in the middle of the screwhead. (did I mention the safety glasses? )

3) Use an approprate slot head screwdriver with a snug fit in the slot to back out the pesky screw.

4) Throw said "pesky screw" into waste basket.

Just a thought.

I have a GTX 260 on its way to me so I will probably end up changing it over to my watercooling block and will need to be really careful with these screws. Are they Philips head (i.e. cross shaped)?
its the next screw to the right of that, lol.
Dont have a dremmel or anything :ohwell:
Probably not bother now, heard it can be quite difficult to undo clips without breaking them.

kinda sucks though, by looking through the gap where the PCI-E mobo connector comes out I can see the gloop has been piled on and has niagara'd over the edges.

Dman screw! :mad:
 

tigger

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#23
Looks like a little allen key screw to me.
 
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#24

tigger

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#25
If its a bit round now,try using a small allen key and supergluing it into the hole,if it comes out,you can use heat to release the screw from the allen key.