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Yet another question for the Gurus!

ShadowXP

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#1
Well, finally gotten to the point where I can reassemble my liquid-cooling system, and thus questions arise. And since people here have more experience than I have, well, questions go here ;)

Planning to go LC on CPU, Northbridge and the 3850 I have. What's the recommended coolant-path? CPU-NB-GPU?

Here's the current breakdown of stuff I have available:
(preferred stuff in bold)
CPU-block: Stock Thermaltake (from the original set in the Kandalf LCS I have)
Radiator: stock 360x120mm rad from Thermaltake or a 360x120 Black Ice Extreme III (if it'll fit behind the front-door of the Kandalf)
GPU-block: Zalman ZM-GWB3850/3870
Tubing size: 3/8"
NB-block: Unsure of type. All copper block with 3/8" fittings.
Tank: Switftech MCRESMICRO OR Thermaltake Aquabay M3 OR Thermaltake Aquabay M1
Coolant: Thermaltake CL-W0044 OR Zalman ZM-G200 mixed 20% with distilled water.

Thoughts? Opinions? Advice? Tips? All very welcome :)
 
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#2
One loop will do you fine. Honestly, I only cooled my CPU with my loop a while back but trust me I read up almost every article I could find before jumping in. Now that being said, I'm one of the freaks that go for the most performance such that I must have the coolant the coldest before it gets to my CPU. The truth is your water temps won't rise all that much from all three of those blocks in your loop so your best bet is to set it up so that you have the least amount of clutter in your case. With most MB's that means CPU -> NB -> GPU. If anyone doesn't believe me about the temps. of the loop not raising much just check out any review where they actually measure the coolant temp of the water in then the water out of the radiator. I hope everyone can agree with me here that they should see the largest temperature delta of their water system from the radiator and none of the blocks (or else you'd get thermal runaway and you wouldn't be able to control your temps as they slowly rise and kill your machine). Just check out this review here with one of the best radiators you can buy: http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/The-Feser-Company-X-Changer-480-Review.html If you scroll down past the Thermal Testing heading and look at the table where various fan speeds were used on the radiator, you'll find the temp difference doesn't even reach 1 degree C with the fastest fans.
 
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#3
If it is possible, maybe up grade to half inch tubing, by allowing more water flow through the loop every think will stay cooler.
 

ShadowXP

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#4
Thanks, people! Appreciate it.

Modder: will stay with one pump to keep the cost and the complexity of the system down. Even though the Kandalf-case is roomy, I don't think I could fit two separate waterloops into it. At least not with using twin pumps with twin reservoirs.

Going to take a close look at the stock TT-radiator and the BlackIce III to see if the BI III will fit behind the front door AND look OK. Don't want to Rat-mod my case since it's quite clean and sleek from the beginning, if a tad on the large side.

One important question, though: Coolant. As I mentioned, I have the stock ThermalTake-stuff and a bottle of Zalman's coolant that you have to dilute yourself. Still a bit in the blue about which I should use, or if I should get some Feser ONE instead.
 

ShadowXP

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Location
Larvik, Norway
System Name AbominationBox
Processor AMD Phenom II X6 1055T
Motherboard ASUS M4A785TD-V EVO
Cooling Noctua NH-C12P SE14
Memory 8Gb Corsair DDR3
Video Card(s) XFX Radeon HD6870 1Gb
Storage 2x320Gb Samsung SpinPoint
Display(s) 2x24" ACER P243w
Case Thermaltake Matrix VX
Audio Device(s) Creative Soundblaster X-Fi ExtremeAudio
Power Supply OCZ StealthXStream 600W
Software Windows 7 Ultimate, 64Bit
#6
Agree fully, Modder. Wasn't too happy with the goo that came with the Thermaltake-system, as after about half a year I started noticing what looked like slime in the coolant-loop. Also saw the same when I emptied the system when the pump went belly-up. Plus the fact that when I poured the coolant into the system, it was fluid like water and looked like slightly greenish water. When I drained the system, the slightly greenish water had turned into a solid green colour that was very much not see-through. Probably normal, but I have misgivings about using it.

Will most likely end up ordering two bottles of Feser ONE just in case. Don't trust myself when it comes to mixing the Zalman-coolant, either.