Discussion in 'Cases, Modding & Electronics' started by DaMulta, Jul 7, 2008.
Gotta love open setups
I really should just buy a bench...maybe some other time lol
Lots of cheap open cases out there man, they do the job and so easy to swap components.
Suggestions? or links? Might just build a bench.
That is nice t-ski
@MGF, I have one of these, effective and cheap.
Picked up this little guy yesterday. Switched cases and blew both my ssd and my 640 WD black.
New SSD with 3 core controller does make me happy though.
Now if hdd prices can drop a bit I can afford to replace my 640 WD black.
What did you do to make them blow?
That's actually what I used to get my measurements, then made mine. Of course, I customised it do I could add a rad and pump off to the side.
I did notice it was slightly similar. Now I know why. . I have a loop on mine too.
I looked at the SSD connection, and the sata power connector had broken just on the lip that bends down. I think I may have hooked up my power supply connector backwards to the drives.
They are unrecognizable with any sata port and even in an enclousoure. The WD doesn't even click, spin, or get hot. It just sits there telling me what a failure of a human being I am.
oh...bad luck man =.=
you may have blown a small safety fuse on the circuit board. they can look almost like a Surface mount cap or resistor. early nintendo ds's had 3 on the main boards and if you hooked up powers wronge or battery backwords these would blow really easy. LOL i used to buy the dead ones and fix them and than resell them. best way look around the power connector
Turn on the multi-meter and set it to "x1" ohms. This is the lowest resistance rating, and is used to make sure that an electrical component has a continuous connection.
Attach the red and black alligator clips to the fuse. Attach the red clip to one end of the SMD fuse, while you attach the black clip to the opposite end. Alternatively, if you do not want to remove the SMD fuse from the circuit board, you can use pin leads and touch the red and black leads to opposite ends of the fuse.
Check for continuity. If your fuse is working correctly, the needle in your analog multi-meter will show a reading. If you have a digital multi-meter, you will see the numbers increase. If there is no change in the reading, the SMD fuse is bad and will need to be replaced.
Rollercoaster of pc tubing right there.
All multimeters I know have a "beep"-mode for checking continuity
but if your working with a really bad hangover its better to watch a display than to listen to an annoying beep!
I tend to stay away from small electrics when I'm hung over
White SPOT rig
This is my SPOT rig.... Spare-Parts-Over-Time
Fresh rebuild into a NZXT Source 210
MSI DKA-790GX Platinum
PII 720 Black
2x2GB DDR2 800
ASUS 4870 Dark Knight Top 512MB
320 GB WD Blue
NZXT Sentry Mesh Fan Controller
5x 120mm fans (2 w/blue LED)
My mobo ran into a few problems with the 6gb/s drives so i took my cards out to clean the fans^^
Such awesome cards mate. ^^
You may be a geek... if your dining table has looked like this
Yep, I'm a geek
Ressurecting an ASUS Maximus Formula MB + E6400 . The MB to the left is a Gigabyte DQ6 that I found out was toast (would not boot at all).
Let the overclocking begin!
I just took over the whole table...and never gave it back!
View attachment 45127
Only the dining room? I have a storage room with boxes of old parts, and a shed full of old pcs
This may turn into a ghetto thread, LOL... how many mothboard boxes do you have on the left? Holy sheeeite.
I've got a dedicated rubbermain shelf with 6-8 large sterlite boxes full of stuff. May go through that and hit the pay-it-forward thread
Separate names with a comma.