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Zotac zBox Ad04 heatsink mod

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Hello All,

I would like to modify with a newer heatsink as it gets 77-87 but with where the mounts are I don't think it is possible. What ya think?

Screenshot_20180713-110955_cropped.png


DSC_0087-1200x800.jpg
 
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Might be easier to increase case cooling with a better fan, or perhaps a different case completely.
 
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Yea and by looking at the triangle I see at the bottom I think a heatsink would work but having the GPU/CPU could be a problem especially finding the heatsink for it

How large would one say the side of the pc is laying downside? The heatsink I'm looking into getting is 27mm

My friend could make a whole for the top casing of where the heatsink would go. Overall though he might create a 3D print of a custom case for it if needed
 
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How large would one say the side of the pc is laying downside?
Don't you have this in your possession? Can't you measure it?

According to the product user guide, it is 188mm x 188mm x 44mm.
 
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My dad measured it and it's only about 2 1/2 inches so yeah...
 
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Take the cooler off and measure the mounting hole spacing, there appears to be 5 screws holding it on, perhaps a blower style cooler off a GPU (with a larger fan) could be modified to fit.
 

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Hello All,

I would like to modify with a newer heatsink as it gets 77-87 but with where the mounts are I don't think it is possible. What ya think?

It's possible, but requires some manual labor and may not be beneficial at all.

One of the things you can do on this platform(since there are no heatpipes), is to replace that whole block with something like a compact GT730/GT630 Low-profile heatsink, or a dual-fan MSI low-profile heatsink from GTX750Ti LP. When I did my cooling mod on an ECS board, I've just measured the distance between holes and drilled matching ones in a heatsink (or you can put it on top of the CPU and mark dots w/ fine marker or pencil). Just had to add some spacers, so it won't crack the board when i tighten those screws.

BTW, that SoC shouldn't get that hot even with that crappy HSF. You should start with TIM replacement, checking HS contact w/ die, playing with fan profiles (or maxing it out by cutting PWM signal wire), maybe even drilling some holes on the top cover for better air intake.
 
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Also might want to check that the heatsink fins are not clogged with dust and whatnot. Such can and does cause over-heating.
 
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Yeah I think my friend is just going to take it with him yto create his own case for it and then modify the HS. We did clean and replace thermal but still ran @77 which the max is 90 so
 
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How large would one say the side of the pc is laying downside?
Can't you measure it?

According to the product user guide, it is 188mm x 188mm x 44mm.
My dad measured it and it's only about 2 1/2 inches so yeah...
You cannot go by "about". It needs to be an accurate measurement. And I note "about" 2.5 inches is only "about" 63.5mm. So I am "guessing" he measured across the fan blades as 60mm is a common fan width size.

It is highly unlikely the side of the PC is only about 2.5 inches.

A better fan would likely work, but it might also be the TIM. Consider the possibility that the thermal compound might need replacement.
"Might" yes. But TIM does not need to be replaced just because it has been awhile since applied. It will easily last 10, 15 years or even longer as long as the cured bond is not broken. TIM does not wear out. And even if it dries, the solids left behind are still occupying the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces, preventing insulating air from getting in. It is important to remember TIM is only in a liquified state so it can be squeezed out of the tube (or scooped out of the tub) and spread evenly over the device surface.

Because a fresh new layer of TIM may only give a few degrees (typically 5°C or less) of cooling improvement, and especially because CPU destruction from ESD or mishandling is possible, I feel all other options should be explored first - unless the cured bond has been broken. Then for sure, the heatsink fan assembly needs to be removed, the mating surfaces thoroughly cleaned of old TIM, and a fresh, as thin as possible (any excess is in the way!), but thorough layer of new TIM needs to be applied.
 
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