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The WTF, I'm about to de-lid thread!

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I can't freaking spread the coolaboratory pro right. I mean I got it on the die and spread it around and bolted it all up and my temps are horrible. I am going to try arctic silver 5 because this liquid metal shit is so hard to work with!!!! Any tips on the CLP?
 
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I can't freaking spread the coolaboratory pro right. I mean I got it on the die and spread it around and bolted it all up and my temps are horrible. I am going to try arctic silver 5 because this liquid metal shit is so hard to work with!!!! Any tips on the CLP?

I just tried the arctic silver 5 and my temps are a tiny bit better but still really bad. Like 30*C idle 75*C load with stock clocks.

Before was 25*C idle 55*C load at 4.0 ghz.

The IHS must not be contacting the die? I am not sure whats going on. I scraped off most of the black adhesive with my fingernail but it was tough to remove....

HELP!

Should I spread the as5 or the liquid pro on the die or just dot it on the die ?
 
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I just tried the arctic silver 5 and my temps are a tiny bit better but still really bad. Like 30*C idle 75*C load with stock clocks.

Before was 25*C idle 55*C load at 4.0 ghz.

The IHS must not be contacting the die? I am not sure whats going on. I scraped off most of the black adhesive with my fingernail but it was tough to remove....

HELP!

Should I spread the as5 or the liquid pro on the die or just dot it on the die ?

Make a line of liquid pro down the length of the die, but make room for it to spread in the direction the IHS will slide when clamped down.
 
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Make a line of liquid pro down the length of the die, but make room for it to spread in the direction the IHS will slide when clamped down.

Okay I'll give it a shot. Thankfully the H100i makes removal easy.
 
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Should I spread the as5 or the liquid pro on the die or just dot it on the die ?

First, make sure you've removed as much of the stock black adhesive on the chip and IHS as possible. Drop the lid on top of the die, you should see a small gap where the black adhesive was and it should slide around easlity on top of the die... the die will be holding the IHS up.

Then, I used a razor blade to spread a thin AS5 layer on the die, put the chip in the socket, dabbed silicone on each corner of the IHS outside bottom corners, placed carfeully on the chip and locked the bracket. Then spread a layer of AS5 on the top of the IHS, installed the cooler carefully, screwing diagonal reatiner screws sucessively. Without even pressure, I suspect the IHS could lift off an edge or corner (which would NOT be good).
 
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Why do they sell them lidded if they work this much better without? lol.. I iz confused..
 
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The IHS must not be contacting the die

I don't know if it's possible but you might check if you deformed the IHS with the vise.
 

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This de-liding thing, do you guys get good results on SB processors too?

SB and SB-E chips can't be de-lidded because they're soldered to the lid. It's also why it has better thermal contact with it as well.
 
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Why do they sell them lidded if they work this much better without? lol.. I iz confused..

They use grey poupon for thermal interface material. It's supposed to be the best out there, but I think that applies to a ham sandwich.
 
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I can't even get it to the mid 20's again. I am at 35*C idle again. high 80's p95, stock! What the fuck!?

I never thought the thermal paste application would be the part that fucked me up.

What am I doing wrong? I have tried spreading as5 on chip, spreading liquid pro on chip, dotting chip with as5 and with liquid pro.
 
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I can't even get it to the mid 20's again. I am at 35*C idle again. high 80's p95, stock! What the fuck!?

I never thought the thermal paste application would be the part that fucked me up.

What am I doing wrong? I have tried spreading as5 on chip, spreading liquid pro on chip, dotting chip with as5 and with liquid pro.

This, maybe:

First, make sure you've removed as much of the stock black adhesive on the chip and IHS as possible. Drop the lid on top of the die, you should see a small gap where the black adhesive was and it should slide around easlity on top of the die... the die will be holding the IHS up.

Then, I used a razor blade to spread a thin AS5 layer on the die, put the chip in the socket, dabbed silicone on each corner of the IHS outside bottom corners, placed carfeully on the chip and locked the bracket. Then spread a layer of AS5 on the top of the IHS, installed the cooler carefully, screwing diagonal reatiner screws sucessively. Without even pressure, I suspect the IHS could lift off an edge or corner (which would NOT be good).
 

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They use grey poupon for thermal interface material. It's supposed to be the best out there, but I think that applies to a ham sandwich.

Weres the pictures of the delid? :)

 
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I mean it looks perfect... Heres pics. The lid is flat I checked it with a razor blade edge.

The resulting temp this last time (the 6th try) was 38*C Idle....!!!!!








There has to be something I'm missing right guys?

If I still have problems I might do direct die with the h100i, IDK.
 
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I mean it looks perfect... Heres pics. The lid is flat I checked it with a razor blade edge.

The resulting temp this last time (the 6th try) was 38*C Idle....!!!!!
http://i.imgur.com/WS4YISEl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/hgDJVjDl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9iOItctl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/CifdME3l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LWMpsqgl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Dx8aag2l.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/lDDTJWel.jpg

There has to be something I'm missing right guys?

If I still have problems I might do direct die with the h100i, IDK.

Not enough of CLP...
 
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My eyes could be deceiving me as im on my phone, but that's a very tiny amount of thermal paste o_O
 
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Really.. How much should be on it? I am really confused I figured it would spread once the pressure is applied to it. Is it safe if it comes off the die a little bit on the sides? I am a less is more thermal paste guy so this is all new to me.

The lid is definitely floating on top of the die before I clamped it so its contacting only the die as it should.
 
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Doesn't your paste tube have application markers on it? It might be worth using a plastic bag or glove to spread the paste yourself so you can ensure enough is covering the area. Twice as much on the ihs anyway
 
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LOL, I have pics on my camera (at home) of just the die and lid opened up, no thermal pasteries. Will post tonight if I find the time.

Doesn't your paste tube have application markers on it? It might be worth using a plastic bag or glove to spread the paste yourself so you can ensure enough is covering the area. Twice as much on the ihs anyway

Yes, and perhaps spread a thin layer on the inside of the IHS too.
 
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If I remember correctly, for the Coolaboratory TIM to work, they specifically ask you to paint both the whole die area and the heatsink area as well using the included brush.

This is the only TIM as far as I know where using more is actually beneficial for adequate heat transfer to occur.


SB and SB-E chips can't be de-lidded because they're soldered to the lid. It's also why it has better thermal contact with it as well.

Thanks, after seeing the results the OP obtained from this procedure I was wondering if my procs would benefit from it, thanks for clearing that out :)
 
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For those who don't want to hunt through the Overclock.net thread, a proper link to the video.

Code:
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/130315-Delid-vid/IMG_0081.m4v
 

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For those who don't want to hunt through the Overclock.net thread, a proper link to the video.

Code:
http://www.fnarfbargle.com/private/130315-Delid-vid/IMG_0081.m4v

That is a killer idea, Seems like its quicker and somewhat safer as long as you dont baseball swing the hammer.
 
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That is a killer idea, Seems like its quicker and somewhat safer as long as you dont baseball swing the hammer.

I have a cut on my finger, lol. Despite that, I'd still rather do it by hand so I can feel the resistance. Hitting too hard and chipping the silicon would really suck.
 
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System Name Computer of Theseus
Processor Intel i9-12900KS: 50x Pcore multi @ 1.18Vcore (target 1.275V -100mv offset)
Motherboard EVGA Z690 Classified
Cooling Noctua NH-D15S, 2xThermalRight TY-143, 4xNoctua NF-A12x25,3xNF-A12x15, 2xAquacomputer Splitty9Active
Memory G-Skill Trident Z5 (32GB) DDR5-6000 C36 F5-6000J3636F16GX2-TZ5RK
Video Card(s) EVGA Geforce 3060 XC Black Gaming 12GB
Storage 1x Samsung 970 Pro 512GB NVMe (OS), 2x Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB (data 1 and 2), ASUS BW-16D1HT
Display(s) Dell S3220DGF 32" 2560x1440 165Hz Primary, Dell P2017H 19.5" 1600x900 Secondary, Ergotron LX arms.
Case Lian Li O11 Air Mini
Audio Device(s) Audiotechnica ATR2100X-USB, El Gato Wave XLR Mic Preamp, ATH M50X Headphones, Behringer 302USB Mixer
Power Supply Super Flower Leadex Platinum SE 1000W 80+ Platinum White
Mouse Zowie EC3-C
Keyboard Vortex Multix 87 Winter TKL (Gateron G Pro Yellow)
Software Win 10 LTSC 21H2
If I remember correctly, for the Coolaboratory TIM to work, they specifically ask you to paint both the whole die area and the heatsink area as well using the included brush.

This is the only TIM as far as I know where using more is actually beneficial for adequate heat transfer to occur.




Thanks, after seeing the results the OP obtained from this procedure I was wondering if my procs would benefit from it, thanks for clearing that out :)

I never recieved the brush or retail package just the syringe. Xoxide kind of dropped the ball. Also it doesnt want to disperse as I'm spreading it. It stays in a bead.
 
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