3D Printer Club

[GreiverBlade]

Pfeeeewww finally received it...
Still at work till 9pm but happy

15kg

 

[FoulOnWhite]

You might be printing too hot. I see lots of stringing in that print.

I have a few different reels of filament, upto now the best was the fluro green i did the owl with, maybe it's down to the quality of the stuff i have. I am trying to do them at the lower end of the temp range. Tbh for out of the box with no tweaks at all, it is not too bad. I was gonna get an ender 5 s1, but got this for the bigger 300x300x350 print size, my mate has the same one and said the print size makes it very useful for doing masks (star wars/marvel etc) in one piece.

 

[GreiverBlade]

damn impressive for the price ...

the package has everything from tools to assemble and maintain the printer spare parts (nozzle etc) to a drawer integrated to the base to store them, a solid metal spatula, a bit of white PLA to get started if not ordering some spools plus a MicroSD 8gb with a reader containing more detailed manual, video tutorial and Creality Slicer.



not a fan of Creality slicer interface, will be using Creality Print instead (or so i would like to ... but only Creality Slicer latest build has the Ender-3 V2 Neo profile oh well i can use both in combination )

the Sunlu S1 Plus is perfect, went from 43%RH to 20%RH quite fast

 

[gurusmi]

damn impressive for the price ...

the package has everything from tools to assemble and maintain the printer spare parts (nozzle etc) to a drawer integrated to the base to store them, a solid metal spatula, a bit of white PLA to get started if not ordering some spools plus a MicroSD 8gb with a reader containing more detailed manual, video tutorial and Creality Slicer.

not a fan of Creality slicer interface, will be using Creality Print instead (or so i would like to ... but only Creality Slicer latest build has the Ender-3 V2 Neo profile oh well i can use both in combination )

You will buy additional tools quite fast. You realize that all the tools laid by are only chinese goods. Not that good. Not that stable. Also you will realize that, at a certain point, you will need more tools like i.e. needles to clean the nozzle. Also you will have more detailed questions. I think that you speak quite well german. So i suggest you to take a look at that german speaking 3D printing forum.

Btw. I just cancelled my Abo on Mago3D Lychee Pro. I do not pay 50€ per year and see advertisings at every single slice. Chitubox is free and don't show up with ads. Both are available on Linux.

 

[GreiverBlade]

You will buy additional tools quite fast. You realize that all the tools laid by are only chinese goods. Not that good. Not that stable. Also you will realize that, at a certain point, you will need more tools like i.e. needles to clean the nozzle. Also you will have more detailed questions. I think that you speak quite well german. So i suggest you to take a look at that german speaking 3D printing forum.

Btw. I just cancelled my Abo on Mago3D Lychee Pro. I do not pay 50€ per year and see advertisings at every single slice. Chitubox is free and don't show up with ads. Both are available on Linux.

needle for the nozzle was include and needed the angle cutter plier are up to other cutter i used for modelism from a well known brand and the spatula is sturdier (thicker and more rigide)than the one i use to scrap paint

sized that one down ... let see how it will go


oh and don't worry, i did search a lot before buying that printer

ah, i need to level the bed ... oh, already 1:04AM

 

[FoulOnWhite]

needle for the nozzle was include and needed the angle cutter plier are up to other cutter i used for modelism from a well known brand and the spatula is sturdier (thicker and more rigide)than the one i use to scrap paint

sized that one down ... let see how it will go
View attachment 324651

oh and don't worry, i did search a lot before buying that printer

ah, i need to level the bed ... oh, already 1:04AM

Does it not have auto level?

 

[NoiseBox]

Extend the lighting time of the base when it doesn't hold on the plate. Also shaking the bottle befor usage could help.

I'm just designing, constructing and printing cable combs and cabel channels for my new build. The ATX Cables for my Mainboard are all over 30 cables (7,5cm) wide. Aa cable comb for 30 Cables is not available. So i have to do it on my own.

Thank you, I'll give that a try

 

[GreiverBlade]

Does it not have auto level?

yep it has ... but nope you can't use auto level on any printer without manual leveling, afterward since auto level is more than aproximative ... still need to set the offset, adjust the bed springs and so on ...
it has a CR-Touch sensor, but even after auto level : an A4 sheet would fit in pack of 4 under the nozzle

basically every Printer review i saw mentioned: don't forget to manualy level the bed even if it has auto level

i have a "filament not ticking to the bed" little issue ... so, it's either leveling or room temperature (20°c) or i need to put the bed temp above 60°c
or i need something else (spray, glue stick) although i doubt it.

oh well, working this weekend as usual, so i will get on it, next day off, monday (11.12 hehe 1 day before my birthday )


but i did level my bed .... my own bed, since it was 1:04am when i wrote that post

 

[gurusmi]

At my predator i did biuld in a Duet smart effector. It is a Delta printer. This Smart effector uses the nozzle to level automatically. Happily i don't need to level other things as the bed is fix mounted on the frame. When built in i had to define the sensitivity. That's it. my own written start code automatically levels the bed.So i never forget it. If i wouldn't be that lazy i would check the cables for the Auto level (I changed the whole cable trees incl all of the electronics) and the Predator would work. But there is such a lot to do otherwise.

 

[FoulOnWhite]

printed a tube sqeezer to see what it's like, printed really nice.

 

[ZenZimZaliben]

I have a few different reels of filament, upto now the best was the fluro green i did the owl with, maybe it's down to the quality of the stuff i have. I am trying to do them at the lower end of the temp range. Tbh for out of the box with no tweaks at all, it is not too bad. I was gonna get an ender 5 s1, but got this for the bigger 300x300x350 print size, my mate has the same one and said the print size makes it very useful for doing masks (star wars/marvel etc) in one piece.

I have found big differences (quality, bonding, temperatures) between different brand filaments. The most consistent and probably why it is a little a higher in price sometimes is HatchBox.

 

[FoulOnWhite]

I have found big differences (quality, bonding, temperatures) between different brand filaments. The most consistent and probably why it is a little a higher in price sometimes is HatchBox.

The best i have is some fluro stuff, the rainbow is not great. I have just switched out my brass nozzle for a steel one, which is doing great so far. i'll see how it goes.

I am just doing a mini cocktail stick firing crossbow, will show pics of it later. I am loving the printer though.

Here we go, it's not very big, but my mate dale said i could scale it up. still looks pretty cool though. i need to get a bit of fishing line though. it cocks and fires ok, loads from the top.

 

[FoulOnWhite]

Did a new cover for my hot end, the print came out first class. Suunlu PLA+ 205c print temp.

 

[gurusmi]

Noctua fans at a 3D Printer? Yes or no.

Noctua fans are not capable to deliver a stronger air flow on FDM Printers. So to get the same result the printing speed needs to be reduced. But: You don't need to justify yourself against me. It is your printer. It is your money. It is your decision. The best choice about fans at the 3D printer are Pabst ones.

I own a anycubic predator. That is a Delta FDM Printer. From the original i only kept the frame, the PSU and the heatbed. Everything else is exchanged. I exchanged (as i said) everything. The Rods, the motors (bigger 65nM Stepperonline), all the cables. the electronics (Duet3D 6HC), the hotend (E3D Volcano, Duet Smarteffector)... If i wouldn't be that lazy i would just check the cables getting to the effector and after let him print. But. I'm sitting in a wheelchair and for checking the cables i have to stand upright. A thing i'm not able right now. So this printer has to wait till i'm better trained at the reha.

With the rebuild of my printer i tested a lot of fans. Right now i have a volcano hotend and there i use 2 Blower and 1 radial fan. All frrom Sunon. All 24v. they are at my configuration the best. I would suggest you to buy also suúnon's they are not that expensive. And then test both. So you get your own opinion.

 

[FoulOnWhite]

Noctua fans at a 3D Printer? Yes or no.

Noctua fans are not capable to deliver a stronger air flow on FDM Printers. So to get the same result the printing speed needs to be reduced. But: You don't need to justify yourself against me. It is your printer. It is your money. It is your decision. The best choice about fans at the 3D printer are Pabst ones.

I own a anycubic predator. That is a Delta FDM Printer. From the original i only kept the frame, the PSU and the heatbed. Everything else is exchanged. I exchanged (as i said) everything. The Rods, the motors (bigger 65nM Stepperonline), all the cables. the electronics (Duet3D 6HC), the hotend (E3D Volcano, Duet Smarteffector)... If i wouldn't be that lazy i would just check the cables getting to the effector and after let him print. But. I'm sitting in a wheelchair and for checking the cables i have to stand upright. A thing i'm not able right now. So this printer has to wait till i'm better trained at the reha.

With the rebuild of my printer i tested a lot of fans. Right now i have a volcano hotend and there i use 2 Blower and 1 radial fan. All frrom Sunon. All 24v. they are at my configuration the best. I would suggest you to buy also suúnon's they are not that expensive. And then test both. So you get your own opinion.

Link the fans for me please, amazon uk if possible, thx

 

[gurusmi]

Amazon.co.uk : sunon 24v 4010

I searched for 4010 (40mm diameter, 10mm depth) fans with 24V. The naming of that fans is quite easy. They are named "xxyy" xx is the diameter and yy is the depth of the fans.

I didn't buy the fans at amazon. I got it directly. Also all major electronics reseller (i.e. RS electronics) offer them mostly for a cheaper price.

 

[Frick]

yep it has ... but nope you can't use auto level on any printer without manual leveling, afterward since auto level is more than aproximative ... still need to set the offset, adjust the bed springs and so on ...
it has a CR-Touch sensor, but even after auto level : an A4 sheet would fit in pack of 4 under the nozzle

basically every Printer review i saw mentioned: don't forget to manualy level the bed even if it has auto level

My cheapo printer (Creality Ender V3 SE) seem to do very fine with auto leveling, and most reviews make a point of mention it. It's why I bought it actually, because it seems we have now come to a point when 3d printing is actually user friendly.

 

[gurusmi]

When i bought my predator i had to automatic level the heatbed. It is fixed mounted and cannot be moved in any direction. Therefor i had to use an additional adapter mounted at the effector. I changed the effector towards the Duet3D smart effector. There the printer levels automatically with his nozzle. I was able to use it because i also changed to the Duet3D Boards. At that time an ethernet connected one. So,e sya a delte FDM is more psychodelic as the print head moves all around and the heatbed stands still all the time. Thee advantage of a delta is that the printed model could be heavier and even then it doesn't loose the contact to the heatbed.

bztw. My Predator wasn't that much more expensive compared to an Ender 3. That printer did cost me incl. delivery €500 whereas the Ender 3 did cost around € 300. It got real expensive with all the changed parts. And it needs more power. I have a PSU of about 800W or more.

 

[FoulOnWhite]

My printer has 25 point auto level, which seems fine, i don't and never have used manual. My prints are pretty nice.
here is my nozzle holder i did last night.

I have 0.2(not tried)/0.4(using) and 0.6(not tried) nozzles, all steel ones, as imo the brass are too soft.

And the new feet i did.

 

[gurusmi]

If somebody needs a new case...

 

[FoulOnWhite]

If somebody needs a new case...

Need a big printer for that, mine does 300x300x300mm

 

[gurusmi]

Mine has a diameter of 370mm and a height of 470mm. My FDM One. I will see, how big the next three resin Printers will be. Right now it is planned to have the smaller one with a size of 277,85 x 156,26 x 300 mm. The two bigger ones should have 330 x 185 x 300 mm.

 

[FoulOnWhite]

just making myself a little holder for boards when i am soldering( Not soddering ) them. Doing mine with black PLA+ Thr threaded bar, printed really well upright with minor support.

Maybe increase wall thickness a bit?

 

[KLiKzg]

Got a local guy here in Croatia, a student...frequently ordering from him some parts, sending him a whole models. Very satisfied with results, will soon post more pics about my dual TESLA P4 cooling in my workstation.

 

[silentbogo]

While my main workhorse is out of comission(gotta fix lots of mechanical issues that accumulated over the year), I've decided to get me a cheap-ass Ender 3 v2. Already upgraded with an equally cheap and shitty metal extruder, and a BLTouch clone. Added magnetic print surface to save me some time.
Even though it works, I already hate it and I want to swap it for Ender 3 v3 KE. Once I finish rebuilding my CoreXY, it'll probably go to my office.


And here are two more. My main rig is on the right. It's the most simple corexy rig made locally, but there's so much shit inside that I need to rebuild it almost entirely.
And on the left is my friend's Makerpi K5. Cartesian, but gets the job done(at least it used to when it was new). Most of the electronics and firmware are proprietary (though at least they've published parts of it on github, which helped me to figure out pinouts). Already flashed its brains to Klipper, just gotta put it all together and write a config from scratch. Heck, they even went as far as to make their own TMC2209 modules(fortunately without any major modifications).