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Having trouble filling my 480(top) rad in my 900d

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That is it folks, now I know I have liquid in there but unfortunately I cant get it to fill completely, I thought the pump should generate(circulate) the liquid to the point the rad would fill up on its own.

My previous case installation I did, I did the setup for the hoses and stuff then took everything out once it was completed and filled the loop outside the case but then I was only using a 240 rad, 120 rad, cpu block and a 780 gpu.
 

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You need to setup a second psu to run the pump,at the same time the pump is running flip the case around to move the res at the highest point.
 
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You need to setup a second psu to run the pump,at the same time the pump is running flip the case around to move the res at the highest point.

I was thinking of doing 1 of the following.
1 take out the bottom 2 rads and flip the case topside and try fill the loop
2 take out the top rad and keep it lower than the pump and bottom 2 rads
 
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I had the same problem with my 360 rad up top. I think the xspc x20 pump was a bit weak to get all the air out at first. I had a an airlock, stupid sounds from either pump choke or air in the pump and spent 5 hours bleeding/ re-filling.

I done what the other guy said. use a second psu, turn it off and on loads of times. and keep flipping/shaking the case.

air will still be inside but after a while itll all pass thorugh.

now its quiet and uber cooled!
 
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You need to setup a second psu to run the pump.

No second PSU needed. Turn off PSU. Unplug the power connectors to the MB and GPU, shunt green wire and black wire pins on the 24 pin MB connector with a paperclip and tape. Turn on the PSU, your pump should be running

at the same time the pump is running flip the case around to move the res at the highest point.

That.
 
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Oh how i love top mounts that use a reservoir! My simple suggestion, well looks simple enough from the pix, unmount the RAD and let the system cycle... Once that RAD is closer to CPU/res level it will clear out... Slowing down or stop/start the pump may help as well.

If you were running a Tline/fill port you could have just filled it to the top and let it run ;)
 
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I had the same problem with my 360 rad up top. I think the xspc x20 pump was a bit weak to get all the air out at first. I had a an airlock, stupid sounds from either pump choke or air in the pump and spent 5 hours bleeding/ re-filling.

I done what the other guy said. use a second psu, turn it off and on loads of times. and keep flipping/shaking the case.

air will still be inside but after a while itll all pass thorugh.

now its quiet and uber cooled!
Well Please!!!Please!!! be advised that this is the 900d after all, it is not that simple flipping that case. It scratched up my beautiful computer desk last night.

No second PSU needed. Turn off PSU. Unplug the power connectors to the MB and GPU, shunt green wire and black wire pins on the 24 pin MB connector with a paperclip and tape. Turn on the PSU, your pump should be running

That.

My PSU cables are all black no green wires or anything, I tried doing that to my previous Seasonic X760 and no go on the powering on w/o plugging in. I do have another PSU that I could try but then that means disassembling the great cable routing I did on my brothers PC.

Oh how i love top mounts that use a reservoir! My simple suggestion, well looks simple enough from the pix, unmount the RAD and let the system cycle... Once that RAD is closer to CPU/res level it will clear out... Slowing down or stop/start the pump may help as well.

If you were running a Tline/fill port you could have just filled it to the top and let it run ;)

I was initially going to put that damn rad on the bottom and place the Swiftech on the top as it had the fill port, but second guessed the look. I should've done what I did with my previous case and do the filling outside of the case.

And guys please be advised that this is the Swiftech h220 expanded.
 
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Well Please!!!Please!!! be advised that this is the 900d after all, it is not that simple flipping that case. It scratched up my beautiful computer desk last night.

Put a blanket down and start flipping! ;)

My PSU cables are all black no green wires or anything, I tried doing that to my previous Seasonic X760 and no go on the powering on w/o plugging in. I do have another PSU that I could try but then that means disassembling the great cable routing I did on my brothers PC.

Hmmm... that does make it different. You could find the green & black wires and put a dot or something next to it. I've done the jumper for every build and coolant change / leak test.

I was initially going to put that damn rad on the bottom and place the Swiftech on the top as it had the fill port, but second guessed the look. I should've done what I did with my previous case and do the filling outside of the case.

And guys please be advised that this is the Swiftech h220 expanded.

I'm surprised it's not self purging... mine pulls the bubbles out eventually and traps in the rez.
 
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Well Please!!!Please!!! be advised that this is the 900d after all, it is not that simple flipping that case. It scratched up my beautiful computer desk last night.



My PSU cables are all black no green wires or anything, I tried doing that to my previous Seasonic X760 and no go on the powering on w/o plugging in. I do have another PSU that I could try but then that means disassembling the great cable routing I did on my brothers PC.



I was initially going to put that damn rad on the bottom and place the Swiftech on the top as it had the fill port, but second guessed the look. I should've done what I did with my previous case and do the filling outside of the case.

And guys please be advised that this is the Swiftech h220 expanded.

After finishing my kaffe, just unmount the res from the MoBo tray and lay the case on it's side. Then the res will be highest point ;) :toast:
 
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LOL I was flipping around my nzxt switch case which is pretty big, fully loaded weighs a ton!

granted not as big as a 900D but not far off.

the reason I used a 2nd psu, because I was switching it off an on quickly and didn't want to fry anything decent. also for some people its a nightmare unplugging and bridging the 24pin.
 
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Put a blanket down and start flipping! ;)



Hmmm... that does make it different. You could find the green & black wires and put a dot or something next to it. I've done the jumper for every build and coolant change / leak test.



I'm surprised it's not self purging... mine pulls the bubbles out eventually and traps in the rez.

I did I minor leak test yesterday and it didn't leak. How would I find that black and green wire
 

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All 24-pins wire the same, just yours are black.
Also if you were to swap out the two hoses going to the top rad, when you lay the case on its back, it would self purge that rad. As it sits now, it is more of a waterfall, and will be very tough to get all of the air out of it.
 
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When I get home I will see.
 
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turn case so that it lay at front panel. detouch res from bracket that holds it to case and swap it so that it is above back side of the case (above the back fan). i think pipes will be long enough. trun on pump and refill if needed
 
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http://image.pinout.net/pinout_24_pin_files/connector_atx_pinout.GIF

All 24-pins wire the same, just yours are black.
Also if you were to swap out the two hoses going to the top rad, when you lay the case on its back, it would self purge that rad. As it sits now, it is more of a waterfall, and will be very tough to get all of the air out of it.
I can possibly get everything out the case and then do it on the outside.
Something is telling me to just move that damn rad and put the 240 up top and use the fill port on the 240 to alleviate that issue.

turn case so that it lay at front panel. detouch res from bracket that holds it to case and swap it so that it is above back side of the case (above the back fan). i think pipes will be long enough. trun on pump and refill if needed
I'm going to try that and see after I stuff my face lol but it wont be able to go pass that fan, close enough but no way is it passing it, tubes not long enough.

UPDATE

I also tried once again to jump that PSU and still couldn't get it to go...anyone here got a seasonic made PSU to do that?
I have since removed the items out the case and then flushed it as much as i could to get the air out. It seems to have done the trick, hopefully i didn't kill my bros phenom system in the process. Anyways my HASWELL@4.4 now idles @/around 33 degrees and maxes out @55 degrees after running the Valley benchmark for half hour.
 
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I'm going to try that and see after I stuff my face lol but it wont be able to go pass that fan, close enough but no way is it passing it, tubes not long enough.

that should be enough. you need some watter level above rad fittings. other possibility is to add filler point with T-part fitting atteched to the rad

I can possibly get everything out the case and then do it on the outside.
Something is telling me to just move that damn rad and put the 240 up top and use the fill port on the 240 to alleviate that issue

or use 360 instead of 480. with 360 you will be able to unscreew rad at lay it bellow res while filling and then screw rad back to the case w/o need to fit rad in 5.25 drive bay
 
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that should be enough. you need some watter level above rad fittings. other possibility is to add filler point with T-part fitting atteched to the rad

Well I'm going to have to buy a pwm fan splitter preferably the swiftech version and I may increase the tube size of the res.

or use 360 instead of 480. with 360 you will be able to unscrew rad at lay it bellow res while filling and then screw rad back to the case w/o need to fit rad in 5.25 drive bay

I got the rad to fill I took the entire loop out with the Mrs. help and flushed the air out. My system is performing well above what I expected too my old gpu temps were like 20 degrees higher when running the valley benchmark and cpu fell about 15 degrees. With my "old" setup, my cpu would hit mid to high 80s when I had the case closed up and gpu would do about 62 max... all this running the valley engine benchmark.



 

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Nice results! :toast:

FYI- pick up one of these for the next time you're priming your loop:

OKGEAR PA-AD-UL 12V/5V AC/DC Power adapter w/ 4pin...

They do the job and save time as well as aggravation.

Check your local shop, they should have something similar :)

Not to mention this was all from fiddling around with an aio...I have you thank for getting me into it and swiftech made it easy with the h220
 

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Not to mention this was all from fiddling around with an aio...I have you thank for getting me into it and swiftech made it easy with the h220

Surprised that aio can handle that much stuff!!!

Mine is having an issue with not wanting to spin up when I start my rig.... almost like something is binding up :twitch:

Swiftech support is very good though- two emails and they are sending me an upgraded impeller to try first so I don't have to completely break down the loop. If the impeller doesn't fix the problem they will expedite a full RMA :toast:

Will post some pics if there is a significant difference between the two impellers ;)
 
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Surprised that aio can handle that much stuff!!!

Mine is having an issue with not wanting to spin up when I start my rig.... almost like something is binding up :twitch:

Swiftech support is very good though- two emails and they are sending me an upgraded impeller to try first so I don't have to completely break down the loop. If the impeller doesn't fix the problem they will expedite a full RMA :toast:

Will post some pics if there is a significant difference between the two impellers ;)

What is an impeller...maybe I know what it is but not the correct term. My haswell proc loves this upgrade in cooling and case very much. She has not seen any temperatures pass 69 degrees Celsius and my GPU has not passed 42 degrees. I have been stress testing all day and my temps are so great, I'm so ecstatic.
 

sneekypeet

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The impeller is the part of the pump/head unit that actually moves the fluid through the loop.
 

Norton

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What is an impeller...maybe I know what it is but not the correct term. My haswell proc loves this upgrade in cooling and case very much. She has not seen any temperatures pass 69 degrees Celsius and my GPU has not passed 42 degrees. I have been stress testing all day and my temps are so great, I'm so ecstatic.


Take a peek here if you want to see what's inside your H220 :)

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/3/
 
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Cooling Ek 240Aio/Custom watercooling
Memory 32gb ddr4 3600MHZ Crucial Ballistix / 32gb ddr4 3600MHZ G.Skill TridentZ Royal
Video Card(s) MSI RX 6900xt/ XFX 6800xt
Storage WD SN850 1TB boot / Samsung 970 evo+ 1tb boot, 6tb WD SN750
Display(s) Sony A80J / Dual LG 27gl850
Case Cooler Master NR200P/ 011 Dynamic XL
Audio Device(s) On board/ Soundblaster ZXR
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