RedChrome gets updated..

[markkleb]

Lol there should be a law about working after 3am. You do stupid stuff.

I was gonna get a Opty170 but I thought I would wait till the Conroe and AM2 stuff comes out. The 3000+ was only $113 so it will be easy to sell it as part of a system.

 

[Azn Tr14dZ]

Almost all my stuff is refurbished. My mobo was only $50. They still have a guarante (but its 15 days). Just remember if you get a mobo sometimes it comes with everything and sometimes its just the bare mobo.

One time I bought a Soltek mobo(what a great mobo) from Newegg for $50 and it came with everything just like new. My last mobo was a DFI LP Ultra and it came with not one piece, no back plate no nothing. The mobo worked perfect (till POGE killed it). This Jetway GT4 mobo came with everything and looks pretty nice.

I only had 1 prob with Newegg and a refurbished mobo but they gave me a credit right away. Its pretty hard to beat Newegg.

What was the problem?

 

[markkleb]

I bought a Biostar Tforce and the 4 Sata2 would not Raid0. I could use 1 HDD on sata1 or ide but the 4 Sata 2's wouldnt work together. They said no prob and sold me the DFI instead.

They are really good about refunding the credit card (fast)

 

[Azn Tr14dZ]

Hmm. I'm considering get a new Mobo (CrossFire) ATX by ECS. $68.99 NOT refurbished. Also maybe two X1800 GTO's or X1900 GT's in CF because they don't need CrossFire dongles.

 

[markkleb]

Ok on to the Water cooling. I am using Swiftech for the CPU, VC and Chipset. The Apogee is pretty good and the 3 pieces match. I went with a Hydor L35 pump because it is 120V so it has nothing to do with my PS. (I dont think the 12V pumps draw too much current but I am going with a 400watt PS)

I moved my HDDs to the top so they were away from the water and it opened the bottom for the pump. I bought cheap hose and it was junk (if it says "just like Tygon" its not) So I have replaced it with Tygon 1/2 id- 3/4 od. Right now I am trying to see if its better to make custom Stainless steel tubing instead of the clear tubing. It would look a lot cleaner.

I found a cool fan that replaces 3 of the Cd slots but will cool the HDDs with a 120mm fan. I am keeping my original 80mm AC cooling fan to cool the pump and bottom of the case. I would like to use AN fittings and braided steel for the cooling but the adaptors are a pain to find. Tomorrow my Swiftech MCW 60B and copper RamSinks will get here and i will put in my X850 XT.
I was thinking of using some pre moulded Car heater bypass hoses because they are moulded into sharp bends but arent restrictive. We will see tomorrow.

I am using the cheap tubing to mock it up so I dont waste the Tygon or the Steel line. Also I am making a 1/4" thick alum plate that will absorb some of the pumps vibration. Another idea I had is to take some alum flashing and build a shield around the pump, than line it with the sound deadning foam I have used on the case to further reduce the noise (the hydor pump is pretty quiet).

NOTE: using heavy tubing or braided steel line would be VERY hard as any side pressure on the blocks will make them not seat flat. Make sure if you use WC that the tubes fit nice and dont put sidways pressure on the system.

 

[yogurt_21]

I use the l35 for my pump works great, no problems, well. just watch when bleeding the pump will get air in it for a few seconds which makes you want to help it pass through, don't it'll get it out on it's own and then start pumping it's 450gph lol which can easily dump all the fluid out if you took off a conection for bleeding.

 

[markkleb]

Its a great pump, first its only $45 second it pumps 450 gals(kind of), and its tough too.

 

[drade]

Cool setup! Well so far, taht case looks very easy to mod, the material must cut great on it

 

[markkleb]

Actually I just bought a new pair of tinsnips (very sharp). I wish it was alum but the case was only $79. I was not think about modding when I bought it, I saw Red and Shiney and I wanted it.

It does have a amazing design for hiding stuff though.

they make different Tin-snips for cutting straight and in curves..

 

[markkleb]

I am so psyched... I found some Primoflex 1/2 id- 3/4" od in red UV. Now I dont need the dye. (and it was only $1 per foot) Now just hurry up and wait for the package...

Im almost done, just need to find a cool place to put the Rad.

Any Ideas?

 

[drade]

I have been following up on your project from day one I love the set up so far. The only issue I see is for your rad placing (yea you asked were it should be placed), your case seems a little limited of space..... I was thinking the top, but your resevoir is in the middle it looks like, cant be in the front because you have a pump, the only way I could see it is modding the door and putting it there, and putting a mesh screen over it, Or as everyone else mostly has one, in the back. Is it gonna be a dual?

 

[FLY3R]

Dude, this is looking sweet, I would be spend time on hiding the wirs on my PSU, but i have accepted the fact that it is impossible to do that with the SeaSonic 600W powersupply..

I really like this build, thumbs up.

 

[wtf8269]

It makes me sad that you still need to hook the sata connections up to the motherboard and power connection to the disc drive. Oh if only they made wireless PSUs. You're gonna need a hell of a radiator for an overclocked CPU, NB, and GPU all on the same circuit. I mean I don't know much about water cooling for me, but for wanting to do extreme overclocking for all three of those seems hard to do all on the same circuit. You should get some of these in-line radiators seen at the bottom of the page.

 

[markkleb]

Thanks guys, about the rad. I am keeping it outside the case to kep temps lower. It will probably be below my desk. Its a CoolRad 22T. I got it because its about 1/2 thicker than the Swiftech.

From what I understand when you have a thicker Rad you need more airflow to cool it but it removes more heat than a thinner one.

Also Since I am using a AMD (cooler than Intel) as well as a X850(not even close to being as hot as a X1800/1900) Heat shouldnt be a prob.

My first Idea was to use a BIG rad (with 4 or 6 120mm fans) and mount it under my house with the hoses coming up through the floor. I would use a 700 to 1000GPH water pump (also under the house where its really cool and noise free)

But I have never done WC so I am testing stuff out now. Notice how I have moved the pump to the side so there is room for another if I need.

The airflow in this case is Very Nice. I have the 80mm fan in front blowing over the waterpump and straight over the VC and out the back. Above that I have the 120mm fan blowing over the HDDs and out the back with the 2 ACcooler fans from the origional RedChrome. The PS is only 400Watt so It wont make that much heat (and the Silverstone has HUGE heatsinks inside) So I am pretty sure the inside temps will be pretty low.

Today my fan controller and digital readout (for the floppy slot) will get here so that way i will be able to speed up or slow down the big fans. I went with Silverstone FMC3XW 120mm fans because they were sitting in the closet for 1 and they blow 103 cfm at max speed but can run at 1300rpm (very quiet) There is 4 of em, 1 in the PS, 2 on the Rad, and the last one cooling the HDDs.

I am going to the hardware store today to look for a tee. The plastic one is very restrictive. I have keept it pretty simple so flow should be pretty good. And I am trying to figure how to mount the Rad so there is a way to drain the water and I am so Psyched about the Red UV hose ( I cant wait till it gets here)

hey wtf8269 good idea, there is only 4 wires so today I will open the CDRW and try to hide the power wires. Notice how the tube that goes straight down from the filler covers most of the wiring. When the new hose gets here it will be bigger (3/4") and Red so it will hide the wires better. I thought about soldering the satas on the BACK of the mobo but cause there is 4 of em I figured I would see what it looks like first.

Do you think I should hide the sata wires? Should they be UV? You will only be able to see 4" of them before they go in a panel. I could make a smoke panel to hide them also.

And Drade here is a pict of what I am thinking about for the Rad. Notice the Rad will be below the desk (cooler and quiter)

 

[drade]

So far so good, seems like one of your tubes are cresed, but I know your working on it..... I would do the under the house idea If I was you, I like it so far!

 

[wtf8269]

That's the lucky thing for you guys, you can do under the house stuff like that. I have to keep my PC mobile for LAN parties. I personally like keeping everything contained in one unit though. Different strokes for different folks. Keep up the good work markkleb.

 

[drade]

That's the lucky thing for you guys, you can do under the house stuff like that. I have to keep my PC mobile for LAN parties. I personally like keeping everything contained in one unit though. Different strokes for different folks. Keep up the good work markkleb.

Well when you live in maine, a lan comes once or twice a year (excluding friends houses).

 

[wtf8269]

Well when you live in maine, a lan comes once or twice a year (excluding friends houses).

Friends houses are the only LANs I go to, lucky for me I have about 4-5 friends that usually come and they're all good enough to play almost every game.

 

[markkleb]

So far so good, seems like one of your tubes are cresed, but I know your working on it..... I would do the under the house idea If I was you, I like it so far!

I am replacing all the hoses with better stuff, these are just to see what it will look like. Also I got some Pre-moulded heater bypass hoses for the really tight bends. They flow better and can take more heat and pressure.

 

[wtf8269]

What would be sweet is metal braded brake lines. I don't think you can get them as thick as you want it though.

 

[markkleb]

What would be sweet is metal braded brake lines. I don't think you can get them as thick as you want it though.

hey wtf8269. That was my first idea. I am doing that for my next build. I am using #8 braided steel line (2000 lbs pressure, lol) with the AN fittings. Its .44" id. The only prob is getting them to fit the Swiftech threads. As the comp WC stuff is straight threads and the car stuff is tapered. I can probably build my own tops to the Cooling blocks and thread them to match the AN fittings.

PS here is a couple of picts of my LAN MONSTER...
(check out the intake scoop for the CPU and the alien vent for the 2 HDDs)

 

[yogurt_21]

i love the aspire x-qpac only micro atx case that will fit a full sized psu!

 

[drade]

dang thats nice!

 

[markkleb]

Its actually not a Qpack case. Its made by Chenming. A year ago when I built it Qpack cases were $30 more than the Chenming so because Im cheap I got the Chenming. The only diff is the Chenming ver. has a 300watt PS and only has 1 window. The front is my favorite part cause I used this special paint that changes colors when you look at it from different sides. From the front its green from the left its blue and from the right its purp.
The scoop was pretty nice cause it lowered the CPU temps a lot.

 

[drade]

Chenming makes great cases though, I had one..