I have a Fujitsu Scaleo E htpc. Mobo is Asus P5Q VM. The power on button doesn't work and never has but the machine for a long time worked fine. Turned off at the plug and rebooted ok when plugged back in. Now has stopped booting when plugged in. I know it can be booted by shorting power pins - I've seen it done - but Can't remember which pins are the ones to short. I know its a long shot, but could someone help with pics? Would it be safe to short these pins permanently with jumpers to leave in 'always on'?
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Scaleo E - Asus mobo
- Thread starter Dadooq
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Why don't you just replace the power button on the case.
Yes shorting the pins will work, but keeping it shorted wont do anything.
In the manual there should be a picture that describes which pins to short for the power button to work.
Here is the manual:
https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P5QVM/HelpDesk_Manual/
it's under the name VersionE3807
The part you are looking for is on page 42.
Yes shorting the pins will work, but keeping it shorted wont do anything.
In the manual there should be a picture that describes which pins to short for the power button to work.
Here is the manual:
https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P5QVM/HelpDesk_Manual/
it's under the name VersionE3807
The part you are looking for is on page 42.
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shorting them always would make the system power on then off, then on, then off...
they need to be shorted briefly like when clicking a working power button.
why not open up the case and check the button is connected properly, or switch it with the reset button?
they need to be shorted briefly like when clicking a working power button.
why not open up the case and check the button is connected properly, or switch it with the reset button?
Devon68, thanks for the help. Can now get it booted by shorting the pins. Several other threads (in other places) have said Scaleo button wired strangely. I was told by the guy who built the system that it would not be needed, which was true until recently. Don't know how just turning power on at the wall rebooted the machine but it did, for years!
Its a terrible spaghetti mess inside, dont know if I have the skill to replace the button or even check that its wired properly. Looks easier to maybe add new button by connecting the pins to homemade switch?
Anyway, thanks again.
Its a terrible spaghetti mess inside, dont know if I have the skill to replace the button or even check that its wired properly. Looks easier to maybe add new button by connecting the pins to homemade switch?
Anyway, thanks again.
Mussels, thanks for the reply. As you can see from my reply to Devon68, I'm not up to much diy in electronics. If there's any way of walking me through your suggestions, I'd be happy to try.
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i will find pictures and use my terrible MS paint skills to help you.
See the red circle - that is your 'front panel' header. Power, reset, power/HDD lights and such connect there.
Making a mistake with wiring there cannot harm the PC, but could prevent it turning on until you wire up the button correctly (which sounds like you've already experienced)
This image from your manual should allow you to get the orientation right - simply make sure the wiring for your power button (it should be labelled on the black plastic part) is connected to the two 'power switch' pins. Should that button be broken you can use the reset button/wiring instead.
Thanks for going to that trouble. The pins, which I have checked work by shorting them, are underneath a dvd drive, which can't be removed until I remove the pctv card ther are not leads attached to the pins. I have found what i believe is the cable from the power button which ends in two connectors of the sort that would fit on pins. One red one yellow, dont know if the colour coding is significant. Each of them has 4 holes and I suppose i could experiment to see which ones will fit correctly over the two power pins. Dont know why there are two connectors unless one of them is for reset - there is no reset button on the box -.
Anyway, thanks for your help.
Anyway, thanks for your help.
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The wire ends should display + or - to correspond to the same markings on the board.
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red and white or yellow and white is common for the power.
connecting the wrong thing to those pins will do no harm - all those front panel wiring stuff is low voltage.
feel free to take a pic of the wires in question
connecting the wrong thing to those pins will do no harm - all those front panel wiring stuff is low voltage.
feel free to take a pic of the wires in question
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| System Name | Rainbow Sparkles (Power efficient, <350W gaming load) |
|---|---|
| Processor | Ryzen R7 5800x3D (Undervolted, 4.45GHz all core) |
| Motherboard | Asus x570-F (BIOS Modded) |
| Cooling | Alphacool Apex UV - Alphacool Eisblock XPX Aurora + EK Quantum ARGB 3090 w/ active backplate |
| Memory | 2x32GB DDR4 3600 Corsair Vengeance RGB @3866 C18-22-22-22-42 TRFC704 (1.4V Hynix MJR - SoC 1.15V) |
| Video Card(s) | Galax RTX 3090 SG 24GB: Underclocked to 1700Mhz 0.750v (375W down to 250W)) |
| Storage | 2TB WD SN850 NVME + 1TB Sasmsung 970 Pro NVME + 1TB Intel 6000P NVME USB 3.2 |
| Display(s) | Phillips 32 32M1N5800A (4k144), LG 32" (4K60) | Gigabyte G32QC (2k165) | Phillips 328m6fjrmb (2K144) |
| Case | Fractal Design R6 |
| Audio Device(s) | Logitech G560 | Corsair Void pro RGB |Blue Yeti mic |
| Power Supply | Fractal Ion+ 2 860W (Platinum) (This thing is God-tier. Silent and TINY) |
| Mouse | Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL |
| Keyboard | Razer Huntsman TE ( Sexy white keycaps) |
| VR HMD | Oculus Rift S + Quest 2 |
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oh ew, custom pin layouts :/
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| Video Card(s) | Asus GTX 970 Mini |
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| Display(s) | AOC 24" Freesync 1m.s. 75Hz |
| Case | Corsair 450D High Air Flow. |
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Looks like someone replaced the proprietary motherboard with the Asus board.
Maybe salvage an on/ off switch from another case and use that.
Maybe salvage an on/ off switch from another case and use that.
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| System Name | Rainbow Sparkles (Power efficient, <350W gaming load) |
|---|---|
| Processor | Ryzen R7 5800x3D (Undervolted, 4.45GHz all core) |
| Motherboard | Asus x570-F (BIOS Modded) |
| Cooling | Alphacool Apex UV - Alphacool Eisblock XPX Aurora + EK Quantum ARGB 3090 w/ active backplate |
| Memory | 2x32GB DDR4 3600 Corsair Vengeance RGB @3866 C18-22-22-22-42 TRFC704 (1.4V Hynix MJR - SoC 1.15V) |
| Video Card(s) | Galax RTX 3090 SG 24GB: Underclocked to 1700Mhz 0.750v (375W down to 250W)) |
| Storage | 2TB WD SN850 NVME + 1TB Sasmsung 970 Pro NVME + 1TB Intel 6000P NVME USB 3.2 |
| Display(s) | Phillips 32 32M1N5800A (4k144), LG 32" (4K60) | Gigabyte G32QC (2k165) | Phillips 328m6fjrmb (2K144) |
| Case | Fractal Design R6 |
| Audio Device(s) | Logitech G560 | Corsair Void pro RGB |Blue Yeti mic |
| Power Supply | Fractal Ion+ 2 860W (Platinum) (This thing is God-tier. Silent and TINY) |
| Mouse | Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL |
| Keyboard | Razer Huntsman TE ( Sexy white keycaps) |
| VR HMD | Oculus Rift S + Quest 2 |
| Software | Windows 11 pro x64 (Yes, it's genuinely a good OS) OpenRGB - ditch the branded bloatware! |
| Benchmark Scores | Nyooom. |
maybe thats why the power button never worked, someone did a mobo swap and never connected it.
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2004
- Messages
- 58,413 (8.16/day)
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- Oystralia
| System Name | Rainbow Sparkles (Power efficient, <350W gaming load) |
|---|---|
| Processor | Ryzen R7 5800x3D (Undervolted, 4.45GHz all core) |
| Motherboard | Asus x570-F (BIOS Modded) |
| Cooling | Alphacool Apex UV - Alphacool Eisblock XPX Aurora + EK Quantum ARGB 3090 w/ active backplate |
| Memory | 2x32GB DDR4 3600 Corsair Vengeance RGB @3866 C18-22-22-22-42 TRFC704 (1.4V Hynix MJR - SoC 1.15V) |
| Video Card(s) | Galax RTX 3090 SG 24GB: Underclocked to 1700Mhz 0.750v (375W down to 250W)) |
| Storage | 2TB WD SN850 NVME + 1TB Sasmsung 970 Pro NVME + 1TB Intel 6000P NVME USB 3.2 |
| Display(s) | Phillips 32 32M1N5800A (4k144), LG 32" (4K60) | Gigabyte G32QC (2k165) | Phillips 328m6fjrmb (2K144) |
| Case | Fractal Design R6 |
| Audio Device(s) | Logitech G560 | Corsair Void pro RGB |Blue Yeti mic |
| Power Supply | Fractal Ion+ 2 860W (Platinum) (This thing is God-tier. Silent and TINY) |
| Mouse | Logitech G Pro wireless + Steelseries Prisma XL |
| Keyboard | Razer Huntsman TE ( Sexy white keycaps) |
| VR HMD | Oculus Rift S + Quest 2 |
| Software | Windows 11 pro x64 (Yes, it's genuinely a good OS) OpenRGB - ditch the branded bloatware! |
| Benchmark Scores | Nyooom. |
thats a BIOS setting. You could short the power pins on the board briefly (i use a screwdriver) and set that up again.