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Suspicious temps

Discussion in 'Overclocking & Cooling' started by Graogrim, Jan 19, 2008.

  1. Graogrim New Member

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    So I just upgraded this week to an E2200, and I've been gradually ramping up the clock. Right now I've got it running at 2.57GHz, up from 2.2 GHz stock.

    Here's the thing. I'm having a tough time believing the temperatures that the system is reporting. Now granted, the thing is an icebox compared to my previous setup, and given how chilly this room is I can believe that the system temperature is only 25ºC. But the motherboard's own vendor-supplied hardware monitor is trying to tell me that the CPU, overclocked, is only 24ºC! Under gaming load I've never seen it get past the mid-30's, which is just impossible. They're trying to tell me that my CPU running flat out is cooler than me? Inconceivable!

    So what's up? Is this new math or something? Maybe it's reporting temperatures in base 16 and I just haven't seen any letters yet.
     
  2. Xaser04

    Xaser04

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    Download coretemp and see what that says yours temps are.
     
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  3. cdawall where the hell are my stars

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    use coretemp and i woud be careful how high you push the cpu with that 350w PSU
     
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  4. Cold Storm

    Cold Storm Battosai

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    and third times the charm! Coretemp would help you out on it!
    @ cda. I am with you... I feel you should get a new PSU and then try it. that way you know the psu can handle it.
     
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  5. Graogrim New Member

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    Coretemp agrees with DualCoreCenter and RightMark Clock to within a degree or two.

    Regarding the PSU, it's actually exhibiting less strain now (running much cooler) than it was when it was driving a P4 550 based system. The air blowing out is barely above room temperature.
     
  6. hat

    hat Enthusiast

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    Graogrim says thanks.
    Crunching for Team TPU
  7. Xaser04

    Xaser04

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    As coretemp seems to outputting the same temperature readins it seems quite plausible that these are actually the temperatures you are running at (obviously allowing for an margin of error).

    As you say you are in a cold room it is quite believable for your temps to only go up into the mid/high 30's under load.

    Ambient temperature plays a massive role in the resulting load temperatues you achieve especially if you are on air cooling.
     
  8. trog100

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    whats with this 500 watt to run that rubbish.. ???

    these temp read outs are pretty meaningless.. mine only show 40 C at full load at 3.8 gig 1.6 v-core.. and if i turned the fans up i could get 20 C at idle..

    i would like to believe mine but somehow i dont.. they look good thow..

    trog
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2008
  9. JrRacinFan

    JrRacinFan Served 5k and counting ...

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    It is kinda pushin it tho trog. I mean, doesn't ATi recommend a 400W psu from the getgo for an HD3850?

    Hey, if your running it and able to overclockand not notice instabilties, good job is what I say to you, good job Graogrim.
     
  10. trog100

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    dunno but the system in question is a low power system.. probably dosnt pull any more than 350 watts max from the wall..

    just one of my "things".. some folks go out and buy 1000 watts.. nothing wrong with having a little more than u need.. but it seems to me most folks think they need far more than they really do need.. then add another 50% to what they "think" they need and some of the recommendations get silly..

    trog
     
  11. Namslas90 New Member

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    Well maybe you should look it's not that hard...LOL;

    With a "75 Watt 6-pin PCI Express® power connector" recomendation it's gonna be tough on most 400-500 watt PSU's, as usual I'm sure ATI has misjudged the power requirements for the card.


    http://ati.amd.com/products/radeonhd3800/requirements.html

    :toast:
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2008
  12. Cold Storm

    Cold Storm Battosai

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    Gets silly??? wtf? yeah I have a 750 psu but I only need 500.. but why chance things? Your psu is a VERY important part of your computer. Shite, its probably the most important thing. Without it then you can't even power that thing.
    Have you even read the System Requirements for the HD 3800 series? It says 450w. So, there we go on wanting to help him out and letting him know that whatever is going on WE believe its a PSU issue.

    Graogrim go here to PSU Calculator and lets see what your says at the moment. Then like we talk about. I believe in giving a cap room of around 100 watts more.. You never know if your going to be keeping the PSU long, or even if in a few months you see this sweet thing for a better price but it cost more psu to run it... then what? you have a psu that can't do it, and you have to fork out another 100 or so to do it? Nah, thats not right... why would you want someone to fork more money? I can see the fact that you want to "powersave" but you should of thought about that wisely when you thought about ocing the thing at the start...

    But to me, saying its silly and this and that.. come on... Please stop coming in to a thread, saying we're stupid.... Are we? I haven't yet seen a persons psu that was given MORE watts the psu can't supply it thing... Yeah 1000 is way to much... but 350 STANDARD isn't enough
     
  13. trog100

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    u are being stupid.. thow u said it not me.. a good decent make 400 would do the job..

    trog
     
  14. Graogrim New Member

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    Oh I've already established that I have a goodly margin left over. CPU: 65W. GPU: 105W. 1 Hard drive, 1 DVDRW drive, 1 sound card, 1 HDTV tuner card. Theoretically even deducting some extra efficiency for age I have 80-100W of capacity to spare.

    But the main reason I'm not worried about the PSU is that the system I'm running is essentially the same as the last with the exception of the motherboard and CPU, and my former CPU (Prescott at 3.4GHz) dissipated 115W, ran almost hairdryer hot and in general wasted a lot more power. So the PSU actually has less work to do now than it did previously.

    I'm not experiencing any stability problems, nor any inexplicable performance issues. I just have no indication that my PSU is under any undue strain. It's handled much worse, believe me.
     
  15. Cold Storm

    Cold Storm Battosai

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    all right.. if you say so then I believe you. and the temps are right. there is no reason not to believe them
     
  16. Namslas90 New Member

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    Even ATI recomends a minumum 450 watt PSU with a PCI-E Connector with 75 watts.
    Edit...I hope it does now blow the PSU..if it does it will probably take the mobo with it(usually does).

    Good luck! Have fun...:toast:
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2008
  17. Duxx Guest

    Are you still using the stock cooler?
     
  18. Graogrim New Member

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    If you look at from-the-wall measurements done on systems using the 3850 you can see that they actually pull far less than 350 watts. Most of them are in the low 200's to 230's.

    ATI uses "marketing watts" to make the recommendation it does despite this because they have to assume a worst case scenario in order to forestall support calls. By worst case I mean a high-draw CPU like a Prescott coupled with many peripherals and a PSU that isn't rated for the kind of amperage on the 12 volt rail that the video card needs.

    In my PSU's case, the 12 volt rail is rated for 18 amps, which is adequate for the purposes of running the 3850 with a 65W processor.

    I assume that you meant "not" when you said "now". :)

    And yes, Duxx. Stock cooler.
     
  19. Random Murderer

    Random Murderer The Anti-Midas

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    guys, you are overreacting about his psu, 350W is just fine for his rig, even clocked to 3GHz.
    at 3GHz his system will draw ~275W AT MOST.
     
  20. Cold Storm

    Cold Storm Battosai

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    all right... after talking to a friend, and taking out my mouse driver, the calculator shows 232 on psu.. so your right trog... I didn't know the box watts of everything so since my mouse wanted to do its own thing on the tap buttons, I got something TOTALLY different. I am sorry for that. and I found out what shite means so i won't be using that again.. lol . sorry for that.
     
  21. EnglishLion

    EnglishLion New Member

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    I too have a slight disbelief about E2xxx temps. My new e2160 just after booting this morning was reading core temps of 13C - this is definately not true. I get three readings cpu, core1 and core2. CPU is higher than the two core values. Taking readings in Everest and Coretemp (both the same).

    If I push full load on Orthos I get almost 70C on CPU and 60C on the core1 and 2. Using a Zalman CNPS7700 and OC from 1.8 to 2.7 std voltage. Yet if I power off immediately after load and touch the Heatsink, it's barely warm.

    So I'm going to put an independant probe in the bottom of the heatsink fins and see what that reads.

    As for PSUs I agree with trog. My lan gaming rig only draws 60W from the mains at idle (e2160 OC to 2.7, onboard gpu, 3 hdd) and 112W on cpu full load. I recommend buying a power monitor plug to plug through, it's very revealing. One of my systems draws 7W in standby and another only 2W - that's a big difference, as they sit on standby for long periods of time!
     
  22. trog100

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    abolutley true dude.. u have no problems.. but the majority know better.. dont buck em.. he he he

    trog
     
  23. trog100

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    thanks dude.. :cool:

    trog
     
  24. Graogrim New Member

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    Oh, and just to get everyone's goat, the 350 watt power supply isn't the original power supply in that case. I actually swapped the 350 out of a Dell and used it to replace the native 380 watt smart power supply in the Sonata case because the Dell PSU had SATA and PCIE connectors, and I didn't feel like hunting for molex adapters. :laugh:
     
  25. Cold Storm

    Cold Storm Battosai

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    hey, after seeing what i saw in counter strike.... lol.... np. I'll never use a mouse driver again!

    @Graogrim

    your crazy! but then again, if it works!
     

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