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WCG-TPU Cruncher's Hardware/Tech Support Discussion Thread

The problem with using a pattern application of TIM is that you can never be certain that you have the right amount of coverage. Unless you can envision what a few dots or other pattern will look like under a certain amount of pressure, you're always going to have too much or too little. Even if the paste spreads out with heat (and I'm not sure if it even does), that doesn't account for a lack of perfect flatness on the base of the HS. If you happen to have a high pressure area that doesn't allow the TIM to spread there, you'll have metal on metal.

The only way to be sure you have the right amount of coverage is to manually distribute the TIM and eyeball it. And even then, it's easy to make a mistake.
 
Many of the manufactures like Arctic Cooling, IC Diamond, and many others recommend putting the paste in the middle of the heat spreader about the size of a small pea. Then installing the heat sink. I don't think any of them recommend manually spreading the paste.
 
stinger608 said:
...recommend putting the paste in the middle of the heat spreader about the size of a small pea. Then installing the heat sink.
Click to expand...

This is how I've continued to apply, and it seems to work out just fine. Simple and easy. The small pea is a pretty small pea ;)
 
twilyth said:
The problem with using a pattern application of TIM is that you can never be certain that you have the right amount of coverage. Unless you can envision what a few dots or other pattern will look like under a certain amount of pressure, you're always going to have too much or too little. Even if the paste spreads out with heat (and I'm not sure if it even does), that doesn't account for a lack of perfect flatness on the base of the HS. If you happen to have a high pressure area that doesn't allow the TIM to spread there, you'll have metal on metal.

The only way to be sure you have the right amount of coverage is to manually distribute the TIM and eyeball it. And even then, it's easy to make a mistake.
Click to expand...
Yes, TIM will spread some with heat, depending on which TIM is being used.

The only difference I've ever seen with applying thermal compound to a heatsink base is that on heatpipe-direct-touch versions I needed to put a small line on each pipe.
 
There's plenty of TIM discussion threads and lots of strong opinions on the subject.... let's agree to disagree before this becomes another one of "those" threads ;)
 
TIM aside, any idea why the CPU throttles (throttle as in un-turbo) despite relatively low temps? Didn't have this problem on the hotter cooler, which seems really odd.
Side note, I think the fan control is controlling my pump as well as the two PWM fans. There are two CPU headers (1x3-pin and 1x4-pin). Will see about powering the pump off of a constant 12v.
 
Norton said:
There's plenty of TIM discussion threads and lots of strong opinions on the subject.... let's agree to disagree before this becomes another one of "those" threads ;)
Click to expand...
NO! Death to the infidels!!!!!!

JK bro :)
 
FYI, Decent prices on some refurb stuff at Newegg. Of particular interest, hard drives, power supplies, and a Sapphire R9 270X for $133. Thought this might be of interest to anyone looking for inexpensive hardware.

Edit: Actually, might not be the most ideal place for this. I think I saw "TPU WCG Crunchers Hardware" and thought it would fit.
 
Finally got a chance at the heatsink of the 270x and got the screw out. One of the screws rounded out so I couldn't remove the heatsink. Had to take a drill to it :fear:

Needless to say, power drill and a gpu don't mix well.

IMG_20150906_1756272.jpg




I haven't installed it yet and tried it out, but I hope it still works. :rolleyes:

If so the 4790 rig will be up and running by tonight. :)
 
manofthem said:
Finally got a chance at the heatsink of the 270x and got the screw out. One of the screws rounded out so I couldn't remove the heatsink. Had to take a drill to it :fear:

Needless to say, power drill and a gpu don't mix well.

IMG_20150906_1756272.jpg




I haven't installed it yet and tried it out, but I hope it still works. :rolleyes:

If so the 4790 rig will be up and running by tonight. :)
Click to expand...

A little bit of damage but doesn't look like anything that would kill the card. iirc you can put some nail polish on the PCB to cover the scratches.
 
Norton said:
A little bit of damage but doesn't look like anything that would kill the card. iirc you can put some nail polish on the PCB to cover the scratches.
Click to expand...

OK great to hear about the nail polish, totally forgot about that. Clear polish I suppose? ;)

I'll be giving it a go tonight once I get home, had to run to a family shindig.
 
Sorry for double posting.


Got the gpu back installed and it seems to be running fine. A little noisier than before but I suppose that's because the cooler is actually working... Tomorrow I'm going to give it a go with some gaming to ensure full functionality.

But unfortunately, something is up with the system... Cpu temps kept climbing up to about 90* and then I shut it down. The H80i was working fine before being shut down, but it's been about 5 weeks or so since it's been on.

I don't know if I messed something up when messing with it but I'll check it tomorrow, too tired now. And besides, watching Godzilla now in bed with the little one :D
 
manofthem said:
Cpu temps kept climbing up to about 90* and then I shut it down. The H80i was working fine before being shut down
...
I don't know if I messed something up when messing with it but I'll check it tomorrow
Click to expand...

Well, it was something that I did :oops:

Apparently I had unplugged the fan from the H80i when I was moving it out of the way to install the gpu. My bad :banghead: I'm glad though that I realized it before letting it run all night, or I would have had a bigger issue likely.

So it seems to be holding strong now and I'll be keeping an eye on it for an hour or so to make sure. But eve if all goes well, I don't think I'll be getting any pie :cry:
 
This is probably a stupid question since chips have to be designed for DP or MP configurations but are there any dual socket desktop boards that could handle 2 i7-5960's? This would be a much better option for me than the Xeons I've been chasing after since I should have some overclocking options an the chips have higher clocks.
 
Got
twilyth said:
This is probably a stupid question since chips have to be designed for DP or MP configurations but are there any dual socket desktop boards that could handle 2 i7-5960's? This would be a much better option for me than the Xeons I've been chasing after since I should have some overclocking options an the chips have higher clocks.
Click to expand...
some hot glue? :roll:
 
twilyth said:
This is probably a stupid question since chips have to be designed for DP or MP configurations but are there any dual socket desktop boards that could handle 2 i7-5960's? This would be a much better option for me than the Xeons I've been chasing after since I should have some overclocking options an the chips have higher clocks.
Click to expand...
No. Dual socket boards require the Xeons due to dual-link QPI or something like that.



Anybody able to verify for me that S1366 coolers are 100% compatible with S2011 sockets? From what I can see they both have the same 80mm on center layout. I can get some older coolers cheaper that I can new ones, but the old ones don't list S2011 compatibility due to these coming out before S2011.
 
This^^

I read something about that, somewhere, sometime ago.

:D

P.S. still don't know squat about it though! I will be diving in, ignorance first, on Thursday!
 
t_ski said:
No. Dual socket boards require the Xeons due to dual-link QPI or something like that.



Anybody able to verify for me that S1366 coolers are 100% compatible with S2011 sockets? From what I can see they both have the same 80mm on center layout. I can get some older coolers cheaper that I can new ones, but the old ones don't list S2011 compatibility due to these coming out before S2011.
Click to expand...
IIRC, the screws are different sizes. One uses relatively thin screws but the other, the 2011's I think, use fatter screws. So you need to get a f/hs that has both mounting options. If something came out before the 2011's, they're probably not going to have the right screws.

However I don't know if the 2011 screws might be compatible with one of the older sockets. That's a possibility but I have no idea how to check.
 
Found a source that says the LGA2011 socket uses an M4x0.7 thread whereas LGA1366 relies on a backplate to be used. There's an article on the 2011 socket that says 1366 mounts aren't compatible due to this.

I'm willing to bet that a LGA1366 cooler and a trip to the local hardware store would be enough to get something working though.
 
That reminds me: the Heatkiller 3.0 waterblock I have was S1366 with the backplate, and I bought the S2011 upgrade kit for it. I suppose I could use those parts to further investigate.

Thanks guys :toast:
 
I'm finally realizing that I need to get a wireless adapter for my pc because I'm tired of having this ethernet chord strung across the floor, as well as the ends breaking.

So I'd like to ask if anyone has experience with a cheap adapter, either pcie or USB. Distance is only about 10 feet or so, not too far and not much in the way, so I'm thinking a cheap thing should work alright, especially since it'll mainly be used for up/downloading work for Boinc.

Found these:

http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=33-704-045

http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=9SIA93839A0972

http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=33-704-140

They all look pretty cheap, but since they're going to be used for Boinc 97% of the time, I'm hoping they'd work alright, as long as they can keep a signal.

Any ideas and thoughts are appreciated, as well as additional options. Thanks ;)
 
Last edited:
manofthem said:
I'm finally realizing that I need to get a wireless adapter for my pc because I'm tired of having this ethernet chord strung across the floor, as well as the ends breaking.

So I'd like to ask if anyone has experience with a cheap adapter, either pcie or USB. Distance is only about 10 feet or so, not too far and not much in the way, so I'm thinking a cheap thing should work alright, especially since it'll mainly be used for up/downloading work for Boinc.

Found these:

http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=33-704-045

http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=9SIA93839A0972

http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=33-704-140

They all look pretty cheap, but since they're going to be used for Boinc 97% of the time, I'm hoping they'd work alright, as long as they can keep a signal.

Any ideas and thoughts are appreciated, as well as additional options. Thanks ;)
Click to expand...

Any of those should work fine imo.

IF you ever want to run on Linux I would defer to @ThE_MaD_ShOt 's advice- he knows which ones to get that work in Linux out of the box/no drivers needed. ;)
 
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