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Which PSU to take?

freeagent

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What does that even mean "barely flinches"?
What do you think it means?

It means when I load up F@H and WCG my rails barely move in HWiNFO.
 
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RM1000x can stay quieter with the same hardware, that's a feature worth mentioning.
No if you see the noise chart from www.cybenetics.com/ it's almost identical at least until 550 watts that my system can consume. And they got the same fan too.
No, you totally missed @Keullo-e's fine, and absolutely correct point.

To illustrate, assume a 600W load from the connected components. That will impose only a 60% load on the 1000W supply.

But that same 600W load on a 750W supply imposes an 80% load on the supply.

A supply running at 80% load WILL generate more heat which then may cause the fans to spin up sooner and spin faster thus creating more noise.

Therefore, saying the 1000w supply "can stay quieter" is absolutely correct.
 

freeagent

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Exactly, I could do 650w with my setup no problem with a 750w PSU :D

It could do it, but..
 

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Well, I guess flinching is important here then but I still think a quality 750 Gold rated PSU is more than enough for the OP. No need to encourage him to waste money.
 
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No, you totally missed @Keullo-e's fine, and absolutely correct point.

To illustrate, assume a 600W load from the connected components. That will impose only a 60% load on the 1000W supply.

But that same 600W load on a 750W supply imposes an 80% load on the supply.

A supply running at 80% load WILL generate more heat which then may cause the fans to spin up sooner and spin faster thus creating more noise.

Therefore, saying the 1000w supply "can stay quieter" is absolutely correct.
No I disagree. I stated what I stated based on Watts not on load percentage.
And I don't argue if the 1000W PSU will generate more heat or be less noisy at 600 or 700w from the 750W PSU.
I said that for the 500W. The 1000W PSU is not more efficient on 500W or below from the 750W PSU. It's kinda the other way around.
 
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No I disagree. I stated what I stated based on Watts not on load percentage.
That is still incorrect because (1), your statement claimed Keullo-e's comment was wrong - it wasn't. And (2), it is ALL ABOUT the load as a percentage! When dealing with power supplies you cannot ignore or dismiss the load as a percentage of the supply's capacity.

For example, a 300W load on a 325W supply presents a 92.3% load on that supply. It would be cooking!

What if we were talking about a 600W load on a 650W supply? Same wattage as with the 750 and 1000W supplies, same efficiency but now that supply is nearly maxed out at over 92% load! It too would be cooking and its fan would likely be running at full speed and sound levels.

Sure, you may say in your mind 600W load needs more headroom than a 650W supply provides, and while you may not be thinking in terms of percentages, that really is what you are talking about - whether you realize it, or not.

And I don't argue if the 1000W PSU will generate more heat
Huh? With the same load and efficiency, it will NOT generate more heat.

Let's say the 1000W supply and 750W supply have the exact same efficiency across their entire load range. For argument sake, let's say 80% efficiency. And let's say the computer (CPU, motherboard, fans, GPU, RAM, drives, etc.) demand 500W from the supply. The supply will be required to output 625W - regardless if it is a 750W supply or a 1000W supply or a 1500W supply.

625 x .8 = 500

Where did that 125W go? It was wasted, in the form of heat. The same amount of heat.

HOWEVER the difference is the 1000W supply will be designed, typically with larger heatsinks, maybe even a larger fan) to handle even more heat allowing its fan to stay off longer, and run slower (thus quieter) when it does spin up.

The 1000W PSU is not more efficient on 500W or below from the 750W PSU.
Again, not Keullo-e's (or my) point.

You seem to be throwing in your own scenarios and anecdotal examples, then trying to use those to indicate others are wrong and you are right.

You are new here. I don't know if you are new to forums in general, but that's not how forums work - except when trying to drive the topic off topic. For example, the sound of your case fans are totally immaterial to this discussion.

You are the OP (original poster) so you do have some say in how the thread progresses. But you asked for advice and now are arguing with those who have given you sound and correct advice. That's really not right.

I will say this again, Keullo-e is right. With everything else being equal (same load, same efficiency) a bigger capacity PSU will typically generate less noise than a smaller capacity PSU. Why? Because of the "percentage" of the load based on the total capacity.

Now whether that matters to you in terms of the potentially higher cost of the 1000w, or in the wait for delivery, ONLY YOU can decide that.

Have a nice day.
 
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That is still incorrect because (1), your statement claimed Keullo-e's comment was wrong - it wasn't. And (2), it is ALL ABOUT the load as a percentage! When dealing with power supplies you cannot ignore or dismiss the load as a percentage of the supply's capacity.

For example, a 300W load on a 325W supply presents a 92.3% load on that supply. It would be cooking!

What if we were talking about a 600W load on a 650W supply? Same wattage as with the 750 and 1000W supplies, same efficiency but now that supply is nearly maxed out at over 92% load! It too would be cooking and its fan would likely be running at full speed and sound levels.

Sure, you may say in your mind 600W load needs more headroom than a 650W supply provides, and while you may not be thinking in terms of percentages, that really is what you are talking about - whether you realize it, or not.


Huh? With the same load and efficiency, it will NOT generate more heat.

Let's say the 1000W supply and 750W supply have the exact same efficiency across their entire load range. For argument sake, let's say 80% efficiency. And let's say the computer (CPU, motherboard, fans, GPU, RAM, drives, etc.) demand 500W from the supply. The supply will be required to output 625W - regardless if it is a 750W supply or a 1000W supply or a 1500W supply.

625 x .8 = 500

Where did that 125W go? It was wasted, in the form of heat. The same amount of heat.

HOWEVER the difference is the 1000W supply will be designed, typically with larger heatsinks, maybe even a larger fan) to handle even more heat allowing its fan to stay off longer, and run slower (thus quieter) when it does spin up.


Again, not Keullo-e's (or my) point.

You seem to be throwing in your own scenarios and anecdotal examples, then trying to use those to indicate others are wrong and you are right.

You are new here. I don't know if you are new to forums in general, but that's not how forums work - except when trying to drive the topic off topic. For example, the sound of your case fans are totally immaterial to this discussion.

You are the OP (original poster) so you do have some say in how the thread progresses. But you asked for advice and now are arguing with those who have given you sound and correct advice. That's really not right.

I will say this again, Keullo-e is right. With everything else being equal (same load, same efficiency) a bigger capacity PSU will typically generate less noise than a smaller capacity PSU. Why? Because of the "percentage" of the load based on the total capacity.

Now whether that matters to you in terms of the potentially higher cost of the 1000w, or in the wait for delivery, ONLY YOU can decide that.

Have a nice day.
"For example, a 300W load on a 325W supply presents a 92.3% load on that supply. It would be cooking!"
What, why? It would not!

In general I disagree with a lot of what you're saying but no one says that we have to agree. You can have your own mind.
My only comment is that you speak in general terms on PSUs and how they behave on certain load percentages when I am talking about those 2 specific PSUs and how they behave according to data charts that people who might know better have made.
 

freeagent

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Well, I guess flinching is important here then but I still think a quality 750 Gold rated PSU is more than enough for the OP. No need to encourage him to waste money.
Right.. this is right after I posted that I had been running my 750w PSU at 650w load.. :sleep:

For your system specs a 750 is way more than you will ever need.

50 bucks difference. To me that is worth the extra capacity.
 
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"For example, a 300W load on a 325W supply presents a 92.3% load on that supply. It would be cooking!"
What, why? It would not!
I did not say it would be "over" heating. But come on! Surely you can see a 300W load on a power supply rated at 80% would mean that supply is consuming 375W from the wall - meaning 75W is being wasted in the form of heat. Get yourself a 75W incandescent lightbulb. Turn it on, wait 5 minutes and grab hold of that bulb and see what happens. No - DO NOT DO THAT!

Point being, 300W on a 325W supply is pushing that supply to near capacity. ANY PSU running at near capacity would be generating some significant heat. Whether it is being sufficiently and safely dissipated through the heatsinks or not depends on the design and quality of the supply. Regardless, until Man can create a 1:1 (100%) efficient PSU, they always will generate significant amounts of heat when pushed that hard.

That's not opinion. That's just a fact about power supplies, regardless if you agree with it or not.

Edit comment: Fixed a couple typos.
 
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For my new build I will be getting a Be Quiet! Straight Power 12 80plus Platinum 1200W (with a 10y warranty).

Screenshot 2024-04-28 181536.png
 
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For my next build, I will be getting a

FSP Hydro Ti Pro 1000W ATX 3.0 PCIe 5 Power Supply, 80 Plus Titanium, Full Modular (HTI-1000M)​


(oops, i “lied” it is already in my system…)
IMG_1386.jpeg
 
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the way the planets going our next builds will be driven by a hamster on a wheel :). we all get a bit of droop when drawing the watts my seasonic's drop to 11.8v when heavy gaming ive allways thought it normal.
 

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Yeah, Bill got my point right. When having two similar units but with different wattage, the bigger brother will stay quieter with the same components since it has more headroom so it doesn't need to have its fan spinning as aggressively as with the smaller unit.
 
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I got an 850W, but the price was right at the time. (on sale)
 
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The Quiet Pure Power 12 M 1000W has a dedicated port but the RM1000X shift hasn't. It has a cable tho. I don't think it makes any difference.
If I were to choose, I'd choose the Be Quiet! in this comparison.

It does. Sense pins.
This^

I mean it's your money, it is better for your investment to be safe than sorry. Like I said, I don't mind the brand regarding the PSU (though it should have a reliable reputation obviously which both Corsair and Be Quiet! do have) as long as there's a dedicated 12VHPWR port on the PSU itself.

Regarding wattage, a 1000W PSU is the safer bet. Ideally get a platinum, though gold's OK as well.
 

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If I were to choose, I'd choose the Be Quiet! in this comparison.


This^

I mean it's your money, it is better for your investment to be safe than sorry. Like I said, I don't mind the brand regarding the PSU (though it should have a reliable reputation obviously which both Corsair and Be Quiet! do have) as long as there's a dedicated 12VHPWR port on the PSU itself.

Regarding wattage, a 1000W PSU is the safer bet. Ideally get a platinum, though gold's OK as well.

The only sense pins working on both PSUs, Shift and Pure Power 12, are ones required, power limiting cable and Corsair just has them placed among non-12VHPWR connectors. Show me PSU having all four sense pins functional, before using such points ;)
 
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"For example, a 300W load on a 325W supply presents a 92.3% load on that supply. It would be cooking!"
What, why? It would not!

In general I disagree with a lot of what you're saying but no one says that we have to agree. You can have your own mind.
My only comment is that you speak in general terms on PSUs and how they behave on certain load percentages when I am talking about those 2 specific PSUs and how they behave according to data charts that people who might know better have made.

Also let's not forget (for example) when talking about PSU wattage one may not be taking into consideration the rail that needs to provide the necessary output.

For example this 800W PSU is rated for 679W on +12v where as the total power is rated for 800W. If you know your going to run 600W on +12v it would be better to go up another tier for better efficiency.

1714741920350.png


Personally I would choose the RM1000x especially with a high powered GPU.

1714742490349.png
1714742536378.png
 
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No, you totally missed @Keullo-e's fine, and absolutely correct point.

To illustrate, assume a 600W load from the connected components. That will impose only a 60% load on the 1000W supply.

But that same 600W load on a 750W supply imposes an 80% load on the supply.

A supply running at 80% load WILL generate more heat which then may cause the fans to spin up sooner and spin faster thus creating more noise.

Therefore, saying the 1000w supply "can stay quieter" is absolutely correct.
While this is 100% true I'm just curious how anyone got 600w of use (it wasn't Bill) since in W!zzards own words while testing "The Radeon RX 6800 XT only uses around 280 W during gaming, 60 W less than the GeForce RTX 3080. The peaks are higher, up to 325 W, and Furmark worst-case power is 316 W". Techspot and Tom's had similar findings with Techspot avg just 480w total system power in gaming while using a far more power hungry 3950x.
 
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While this is 100% true I'm just curious how anyone got 600w of use (it wasn't Bill) since in W!zzards own words while testing "The Radeon RX 6800 XT only uses around 280 W during gaming, 60 W less than the GeForce RTX 3080. The peaks are higher, up to 325 W, and Furmark worst-case power is 316 W". Techspot and Tom's had similar findings with Techspot avg just 480w total system power in gaming while using a far more power hungry 3950x.
OP should try to calculate total system power to help make the decision. This should include fans, drives, RGB, etc... also potential CPU upgrade in the future...it's AM5 after all.
 
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Power Supply additional amps x volts than yours
Mouse without as much gnawing as yours
Keyboard less clicky than yours
VR HMD not as odd looking as yours
Software extra mushier than yours
Benchmark Scores up yours
OP should try to calculate total system power to help make the decision. This should include fans, drives, RGB, etc...
anyone should first do a little research and calculate their needs before making any purchase.
 
Joined
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System Name Brightworks Systems BWS-6 E-IV
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Memory 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 3000 Corsair Vengeance
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Ideally get a platinum, though gold's OK as well.
Platinum and in particular Titanium PSUs are highly overrated.

If you can find a Platinum at a highly discounted price that puts it at the same price point as a comparable Gold (often nicely discounted too), then great! Go for it. Otherwise, just go for the Gold.

It MUST be understood that a higher 80 Plus certification is NOT in any way an indication of better quality, reliability, stability, or voltage regulation.

Platinum simply means it has a mere 2 points higher efficiency at 50% load than Gold. That is 92% instead of the already outstanding 90%. At 100% load, Platinum is again just 2% higher and Titanium is just a measly 3 points higher than Gold.

We MUST also remember, in any 24 hour period, our computers are off (or in standby) the majority of the day. And during those hours when we are using them, the demands on our power supplies are closer to idle loads the majority of the time than they are at near maximum demands.

In the US, the average price of electricity is 16.10¢ per kilowatt hour (kWh). In the UK it is 24.50p per kWh.

Now look at today's prices for these 3 be quiet! 1000W PSUs. The Gold is $130, the Platinum is $190, and the Titanium is a whopping $250! That's almost double the cost of the Gold, and for what? 2 percentage points!

It would take years, I say again, YEARS - and MANY YEARS at that - of use at several hours every day before that 2% improvement in efficiency results in energy cost savings to make up those price differences. Many YEARS!!!!

As a side note, notice how each of those be quiet! PSUs have the same 10 year warranties.

Now I am, always have been, and always will be a strong proponent for buying quality power supplies by reputable makers since everything inside our computer cases depend on good, clean stable power. And regulars here know I often use the analogy that we (most people anyway) would not buy a brand new Porsche then fill it up with generic fuel from the corner Tobacco and Bait Shop. Its the same with computers.

But again, there is absolutely nothing in the 80 Plus certification program that requires or even suggests a Gold certified supply is of any less reliable, or provides any less quality power to our components than a Platinum or Titanium PSU.

What you do often get with Platinum or Titanium supplies is prettier packaging and maybe a nice bag to put your unused cables in.

So I say do your homework and shop around and get a decent Gold supply from a reputable maker. Then use the savings you just got by not wasting your money on a Platinum or Titanium and spend that on more RAM, better graphics, nicer monitor, or something nice for the better half!
 
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Processor faster at instructions than yours
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Storage more ample than yours
Display(s) increased pixels than yours
Case fancier than yours
Audio Device(s) further audible than yours
Power Supply additional amps x volts than yours
Mouse without as much gnawing as yours
Keyboard less clicky than yours
VR HMD not as odd looking as yours
Software extra mushier than yours
Benchmark Scores up yours
My system has a 7600X CPU and a RX 6800XT. It used to work fine for years, until it didn't.
So when I realized that my 650W PSU has a problem I ordered the RM1000X PSU, I knew it was a bit overkill but it was on offer, but now they put the RM750X on offer too so I ordered that too.
Now I am in a dilemma on which PSU to get. The RM1000X is 50 Euros more and do I really have a need for it?
From the other hand I can get that on Monday when I probably can get RM750X on Wednesday, and I am in a bit of a hurry because I run my PC with two PSU right now.
Based off Corsairs manual the 750w fan kicks in at 300w while the 1000w unit fan kicks in at 400w. Based on your specs your gaming power demands should be around 430w-450w on avg so the fans on regardless. According to Corsair the fan in the 750w picks up at 525w while the 1000w fan picks up at 600w. Noise wise they are the same according to Corsair even though they say the 850w version makes less noise at similar demands which is "interesting". Aris tested the 750w version and it made no noise until 500w and little noise after, he praised it for its near silent operation. Obviously the 750w will do the job with ease, if you want to burn money or just like having the sticker of a 1000w unit by all means although a sharpie and a white label can give you a similar effect.

In general I disagree with a lot of what you're saying but no one says that we have to agree. You can have your own mind.
My only comment is that you speak in general terms on PSUs and how they behave on certain load percentages when I am talking about those 2 specific PSUs and how they behave according to data charts that people who might know better have made.
You have disagreed with Bill before but his knowledge of PSU is impressive especially when the landscape is litter with "get what I got cause its leet" and "mo power = mo bettah!"

It MUST be understood that a higher 80 Plus certification is NOT in any way an indication of better quality, reliability, stability, or voltage regulation.

We MUST also remember, in any 24 hour period, our computers are off (or in standby) the majority of the day. And during those hours when we are using them, the demands on our power supplies are closer to idle loads the majority of the time than they are at near maximum demands.
MUST but won't. I would also add, MUST understand a 750w PSU rated at 30c can and most often is different than one rated at 40c and one rated at 50c even if all are "gold"

would not buy a brand new Porsche then fill it up with generic fuel from the corner Tobacco and Bait Shop
Yes but would you try the Sushi at the corner Tobacco and Bait Shop fuel shop?
 
Joined
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Messages
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System Name Brightworks Systems BWS-6 E-IV
Processor Intel Core i5-6600 @ 3.9GHz
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Cooling Quality case, 2 x Fractal Design 140mm fans, stock CPU HSF
Memory 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4 3000 Corsair Vengeance
Video Card(s) EVGA GEForce GTX 1050Ti 4Gb GDDR5
Storage Samsung 850 Pro 256GB SSD, Samsung 860 Evo 500GB SSD
Display(s) Samsung S24E650BW LED x 2
Case Fractal Design Define R4
Power Supply EVGA Supernova 550W G2 Gold
Mouse Logitech M190
Keyboard Microsoft Wireless Comfort 5050
Software W10 Pro 64-bit
MUST but won't. I would also add, MUST understand a 750w PSU rated at 30c can and most often is different than one rated at 40c and one rated at 50c even if all are "gold"
I agree. But again, none of that has anything to do with the specific 80 PLUS certification of any of those PSUs. There are other "quality" specs I didn't mention. Hold-up times is another often overlooked, but important spec.

My point was, as I know you understand but sadly many don't, is that 80 PLUS certification is NOT an indication of quality or reliability. I will concede that obtaining a relatively "flat" and decent 80% efficiency across the wide range of loads does indeed require more than a basic "design" and decent component specs. But it does not mean the highest quality parts are being used.

***

I don't eat raw fish - period! ;)
 
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Based off Corsairs manual the 750w fan kicks in at 300w while the 1000w unit fan kicks in at 400w. Based on your specs your gaming power demands should be around 430w-450w on avg so the fans on regardless. According to Corsair the fan in the 750w picks up at 525w while the 1000w fan picks up at 600w. Noise wise they are the same according to Corsair even though they say the 850w version makes less noise at similar demands which is "interesting". Aris tested the 750w version and it made no noise until 500w and little noise after, he praised it for its near silent operation. Obviously the 750w will do the job with ease, if you want to burn money or just like having the sticker of a 1000w unit by all means although a sharpie and a white label can give you a similar effect.


You have disagreed with Bill before but his knowledge of PSU is impressive especially when the landscape is litter with "get what I got cause its leet" and "mo power = mo bettah!"


MUST but won't. I would also add, MUST understand a 750w PSU rated at 30c can and most often is different than one rated at 40c and one rated at 50c even if all are "gold"


Yes but would you try the Sushi at the corner Tobacco and Bait Shop fuel shop?
Yeah tho Aris told me to get the 1000W one so i got that. No regrets it's pretty good. I still haven't manage to turn the fan tho :p. I had it upside down and I was looking. Today I turned it at it's normal position just because of the horrible cable management if I put it otherwise.
 
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