ShadowXP
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2006
- Messages
- 125 (0.02/day)
- Location
- Larvik, Norway
| System Name | AbominationBox |
|---|---|
| Processor | AMD Phenom II X6 1055T |
| Motherboard | ASUS M4A785TD-V EVO |
| Cooling | Noctua NH-C12P SE14 |
| Memory | 8Gb Corsair DDR3 |
| Video Card(s) | XFX Radeon HD6870 1Gb |
| Storage | 2x320Gb Samsung SpinPoint |
| Display(s) | 2x24" ACER P243w |
| Case | Thermaltake Matrix VX |
| Audio Device(s) | Creative Soundblaster X-Fi ExtremeAudio |
| Power Supply | OCZ StealthXStream 600W |
| Software | Windows 7 Ultimate, 64Bit |
Topic says it all, really.
Short version: Cracked polycarbonate top of the Thermaltake CPU waterblock (cracked over time, as I've been very careful not to overtighten at install). Leakage of coolant onto the vidcard below the CPU-slot, coolant has gotten into the PCIe16x-slot while power was on.
Anyone got tips on how to clean the PCIe-slot? Compressed air, perhaps? I've ripped the guts out of the computer to perhaps let the damn thing dry out on it's own, but I'm not too optimistic about that.
Long story for those that bother to read it:
So. I've most likely fried my system. I've over a period of time noticed that I had to top off my liquid cooling about once every 4 to 5 weeks. This hasn't really struck me as strange, but yesterday I noticed something that alarmed me. First I saw through the sidepanel of my Kandalf that the coolant-lines ran white. In other words; Foam. Which again means that there's too little coolant for the pump, thus making it cavitate. Definately NOT good.
Just as I reach for the powerbutton in alarm....the system shuts itself off. I quickly top off the tank again, and fires the system back up. Get the POST-screen, but the second the box tries to fire up Windows....black screen. System boots up fine (I can hear the Windows 7 startup-sound in the speakers), but no picture on the monitor. Shut down again and fires everything back up, and I'm greeted by the omnious sound of one long and three short beeps. Which usually means that the Vidcard isn't properly seated and/or missing.
I check and recheck the box, and yep, vidcard has not been abducted by aliens, and hasn't been overrun by Tribbles (which there are plenty of in a house with two cats). I also notice that the coolant-level has dropped below the level I topped it off to, which sets me into a panic. The next few minutes can be described as the following:
1: desk is swept clean of clutter (keyboard, mouse, glasses, laptop etc).
2: every cable is rather roughly removed from the box, and it's hoisted up onto the desk.
3: I notice what looks like some sort of oil on the top of the vidcard.
4: *insert various prime choices of Norwegian and English cursing*
So the question is this: is the ZM-G200-coolant conductive? I already know that it'll cause oxidation on the back of the vidcard (have pictures that I'll post as soon as I get them ripped out of the camera), but I'm really interested in knowing if anyone has been in the same situation with the same type of coolant, and have their system survive it.
Short version: Cracked polycarbonate top of the Thermaltake CPU waterblock (cracked over time, as I've been very careful not to overtighten at install). Leakage of coolant onto the vidcard below the CPU-slot, coolant has gotten into the PCIe16x-slot while power was on.
Anyone got tips on how to clean the PCIe-slot? Compressed air, perhaps? I've ripped the guts out of the computer to perhaps let the damn thing dry out on it's own, but I'm not too optimistic about that.
Long story for those that bother to read it:
So. I've most likely fried my system. I've over a period of time noticed that I had to top off my liquid cooling about once every 4 to 5 weeks. This hasn't really struck me as strange, but yesterday I noticed something that alarmed me. First I saw through the sidepanel of my Kandalf that the coolant-lines ran white. In other words; Foam. Which again means that there's too little coolant for the pump, thus making it cavitate. Definately NOT good.
Just as I reach for the powerbutton in alarm....the system shuts itself off. I quickly top off the tank again, and fires the system back up. Get the POST-screen, but the second the box tries to fire up Windows....black screen. System boots up fine (I can hear the Windows 7 startup-sound in the speakers), but no picture on the monitor. Shut down again and fires everything back up, and I'm greeted by the omnious sound of one long and three short beeps. Which usually means that the Vidcard isn't properly seated and/or missing.
I check and recheck the box, and yep, vidcard has not been abducted by aliens, and hasn't been overrun by Tribbles (which there are plenty of in a house with two cats). I also notice that the coolant-level has dropped below the level I topped it off to, which sets me into a panic. The next few minutes can be described as the following:
1: desk is swept clean of clutter (keyboard, mouse, glasses, laptop etc).
2: every cable is rather roughly removed from the box, and it's hoisted up onto the desk.
3: I notice what looks like some sort of oil on the top of the vidcard.
4: *insert various prime choices of Norwegian and English cursing*
So the question is this: is the ZM-G200-coolant conductive? I already know that it'll cause oxidation on the back of the vidcard (have pictures that I'll post as soon as I get them ripped out of the camera), but I'm really interested in knowing if anyone has been in the same situation with the same type of coolant, and have their system survive it.
), so I'm letting it sit until tomorrow before cleaning it again, reassemble things using a fan-based system since I don't have the parts to rebuild the coolant-loops and then testing it.
