OneMoar
There is Always Moar
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2010
- Messages
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System Name | RPC MK2.5 |
---|---|
Processor | Ryzen 5800x |
Motherboard | Gigabyte Aorus Pro V2 |
Cooling | Enermax ETX-T50RGB |
Memory | CL16 BL2K16G36C16U4RL 3600 1:1 micron e-die |
Video Card(s) | GIGABYTE RTX 3070 Ti GAMING OC |
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Display(s) | LG Ultra Gear 32 1440p 165hz Dell 1440p 75hz |
Case | Phanteks P300 /w 300A front panel conversion |
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Power Supply | SeaSonic Focus+ Platinum 750W |
Mouse | Kone burst Pro |
Keyboard | EVGA Z15 |
Software | Windows 11 +startisallback |
Ok, low-budget method:
1. Buy a $5 K-type thermocouple digital thermometer off Ebay.
2. Bake card in oven at 105C for 10-24hrs to drive out moisture (longer the better) [all components are rated for 105c so card could even operate at this temp]
3. Apply flux (I recommend kester 951 no-clean flux, yes very cheap off ebay 3-5$ for 1.25oz better deal might be a scam...) under the GPU while hot (don't burn yourself)
4. Use kapton tape to apply thermocouple to the IHS of the GPU.
5. Place back in oven set to 450F (~230C)
6. Heat to 230C, maintain for 60-90 secs
7. Cool the card SLOWLY (only a couple degrees per minute)
8. Use Arctic Silver 5 (or another really good paste) for the HS/Fan.
9. Install in system and beat the crap out of it with furmark for 8hrs or so to verify.
10. enjoy free card for a year. lol
let me point out the thing wrong with this and the ways it can go bad
1. you are assuming your average consumer oven has accurate and STABLE thermal control all but the very expensive ones tend to 'float' the temperature very bad for doing bga work
2. the rest of the card will FRY at 230c this is why reflow units have very precise and direct heat control either IR or high speed jets of HOTair and metal shields to protect the rest of the card at 230c there is a good chance you will blow the caps off it they will go POP POP POP and then you will be replacing those ( let alone the plastic connectors will melt and turn into soup) Or worse yet you could warp a trace and it could short and set the whole dam machine on fire
3.flux is not gonna do shit unless you are removing the chip from the pcb cleaning it and reapplying new solder-balls (yes you can wick some of the heat away and some of it will seep under the chip but all in all you are are doing is risking it coming apart
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if you attempt what hellraiser is suggesting there is very high probability that you will kill the card beyond any repair
I don't know why hellraiser is even suggesting it its a pretty stupid thing todo when the card is already functioning and it could last 6 months it could last 6 years his method is not any better nor will it guarantee a longer lifespan todo that you need a BGA station and you need to completely re ball the Gpu and vram chips
further more Ill be blunt hellraiser needs to hush because he clearly lacks a real understanding of the forces involved and if you follow his advice you will have a dead gpu on your hands
450F is WAY TO HOT 350 is pushing it for most gpus thats why I said to start fairly cold because unless you have very tight and LOCALIZED temperature control you WILL break it