Failed 3800X Build goes Intel 10th gen :)

[Alexandrus]

First, do not waste the money on the Maximus XII Formula. The Hero will do the same jo for half the price. Not to mention that if you don't want to OC or are only getting a 10700K tops, the Strix Z490-E will be just fine too, or the Z490-F.

 

[ecopsorn]

Hehe I know what you mean @Vayra86 - I should make compromises but I think I'm already starting to do that now. I know I want and keep QL fans though Noctua has better airflow, is cheaper and quieter. RGB wins because this is the first computer that doesn't sit under my desk but on my desk hehe. There is always a tradeoff, but what I've learned is not to take the benchmarks too seriously.

 

[Vayra86]

Hehe I know what you mean @Vayra86 - I should make compromises but I think I'm already starting to do that now. I know I want and keep QL fans though Noctua has better airflow, is cheaper and quieter. RGB wins because this is the first computer that doesn't sit under my desk but on my desk hehe. There is always a tradeoff, but what I've learned is not to take the benchmarks too seriously.

Then your body is ready.

If it is any comfort... check my specs. That is a 8700K doing just 4.7 all core because its so shit. I went into that gunning for 5.0.

About RGB fans...its a fact they don't quite push as much air around at the same noise level as non-RGB fans. A diffuser is also a ring that limits the blade size for example, and it takes some wattage out of the equation. You could also opt for LED strips, I'm rocking a Lightning Node Pro myself. 4 strips, controller, customizable effects that run throughout the case if you'd want. And full power to silent fans. That is 3 boxes ticked

 

[cucker tarlson]

"But yes I want it all, a quite System, a RGB System as well as a good Performing System .

Wht would he not be able to achieve all these criterias? It will take a bit of time to do it but eventualy the OP will if he does more reading and research on the hardware he will be buying.

My very own budget system (check my specs) has these 3 requirements ticked. I wanted the same stuff, and i made it work, so if i made it, he can too.

well you just said it's budget,so it's not a top performer.

 

[_Flare]

If a person new to DIY-builds steps into the "expensive case with good optics trap" once, okay that how you learn.
But doing it more often seems like the person wants not to reflect its errors.
There are nice unexpensive good looking cases with good airflow, but you need to search, compare and choose yourself.
The better the components, the faster and quiter your system can be. Just buying the most expensive will lead to frustration if your not only looking for a decorative system.
So building the fastest bestlooking 24/7 system worldwide needs some serious experience my friend.

 

[cucker tarlson]

got these alpenfhon winboost 3 argb fans recently - believe me,you can do fancy with no tradeoffs at reasonable price.
compared to my ml120s (like ql120 but no rgb) they are quieter at same rpm,push tons of air and remote controlled argb is just gorgeous and very convenient.

 

[PerfectWave]

Intel Core i7-10700K or i5-10600K or else? this explain everything ....

 

[svan71]

Wow this is the exact opposite of my last build when I went AMD over Intel. I feel I will be seeing intel in my rear view mirror for a long time.

 

[cucker tarlson]

Wow this is the exact opposite of my last build when I went AMD over Intel. I feel I will be seeing intel in my rear view mirror for a long time.

to each his own,for a high end gaming build there's nothing of better value than 10600kf atm.priced between 3600x and 3700x,can drive a 2080Ti easily.

 

[Vario]

If you want a cool system don't buy a system that puts a piece of glass in front of the front fans.

 

[Assimilator]

got these alpenfhon winboost 3 argb fans recently - believe me,you can do fancy with no tradeoffs at reasonable price.
compared to my ml120s (like ql120 but no rgb) they are quieter at same rpm,push tons of air and remote controlled argb is just gorgeous and very convenient.

Upwards of 80 pounds for 3 fans is not a reasonable price in any universe.

 

[cucker tarlson]

well for argb fans with a remote it is cheap actually.
and one fan is not always like another fan.if it was we'd be calling $10 fans expensive cause there's cheaper ones.
they're high quality fans,that is why they cost more than medium and low quality fans.

 

[the54thvoid]

There appears to be a little bit of disgruntlement going on in here. Can we all make sure if we're contributing to the thread that we remain pleasant? And, also, please remember that we are allowed to disagree with one another, even if that means you might just upset someone else. If you feel offended by someone's post, read it again and ask yourself if it's actually offensive, or just a strongly worded rebuttal.

Hint, I'm seeing rebuttal's - not offence. But regardless, let's try and keep the thread free from emotive offence and defence.

 

[95Viper]

What the54thvoid said...
And, the next off topic BS gets points and/or thread banning.
Don't post; unless, it is on topic and follows the forum guidelines.

Have a good day

 

[watzupken]

I feel when you are building your own computer, there is always a chance you will run into teething issues at some point. While its annoying, this is a reality with DIY rig. I have setup multiple computers since more than a decade ago, and while it was challenging getting my first Ryzen rig to work (which I managed to narrow down to ram incompatibility), every subsequent Ryzen rig (3 more) worked perfectly fine. So if you want a painless experience, then objectively, I would suggest you pay someone to do the job for you. Not to say that we are not capable of fixing it up on our own, but we may not have the spare parts and/or time to troubleshoot when something goes south. Just my 2 cents worth.

Anyway, hopefully you can get your Intel rig up and running.

 

[dgianstefani]

It's not unrealistic lmao to want some RGB on top of a quiet and fast system.

CPU 10700k definitely - 6 core parts won't age well whether you're keeping or selling later.
Mobo - MSI Unify (fantastic VRM without all the bells and whistles) or ASUS ROG Maximus XII Formula (10GBe).
RAM - 3600 kits are nice, but Intel has more headroom for frequency. I would return both the kits you have since you are still within the return window. Grab a Viper 4400mhz kit or any kit that can comfortably do 4133 with 16/17cas and tight subtimings.
I would return the 1tb 970 evo plus and swap it for a much cheaper 1tb sata - when rocket lake arrives grab the 980 evo/pro which will be PCIe4 (properly, as it's from Samsung), you can then use the 1tb sata as secondary, with the NVMe as your primary, this will result in a faster overall boot drive, and you might even be able to only run SSD storage in the entire system, which is a boon.

At this point you should have saved several hundred $ compared to what you already had.

With those $ -
Grab a Seasonic TX750 - a really nice PSU, so efficient the fan is almost never activated.
Some Noctua NF-A12x25 fans - enough so that the only case fans in your case are those.
These two changes alone will quieten down your system by a lot.

If you want to go quieter - return both your CPU coolers - go for a Noctua U12A and tune it so fan speeds never go above 65%.
Swap the stock cooler on your 2070s with the Morpheus II, along with two more A12x25 fans. This will lead to lower temperatures and lower noise (therefore greater boost).

If you make it so the only fans running in your system are NF-A12x25, and none of them are going above 65% rpm, your system will be 24/7 silent through a case (source: personal experience).

The only other upgrade I would consider is moving to a 2080s, but that isn't really wise considering ampere and RX refresh are just around the corner.

 

[P4-630]

Grab a Seasonic TX750 - a really nice PSU, so efficient the fan is almost never activated.

33.1 dB(A) @ 300 Watt load.

Vermogende voedingen: 44 700-850W PSU's getest

De core-race is in volle gang en in combinatie met een dikke videokaart is een high-end systeem de laatste jaren alleen maar meer gaan verbruiken. Tijd...

nl.hardware.info

 

[Alexandrus]

It's not unrealistic lmao to want some RGB on top of a quiet and fast system.

CPU 10700k definitely - 6 core parts won't age well whether you're keeping or selling later.
Mobo - MSI Unify (fantastic VRM without all the bells and whistles) or ASUS ROG Maximus XII Formula (10GBe).
RAM - 3600 kits are nice, but Intel has more headroom for frequency. I would return both the kits you have since you are still within the return window. Grab a Viper 4400mhz kit or any kit that can comfortably do 4133 with 16/17cas and tight subtimings.
I would return the 1tb 970 evo plus and swap it for a much cheaper 1tb sata - when rocket lake arrives grab the 980 evo/pro which will be PCIe4 (properly, as it's from Samsung), you can then use the 1tb sata as secondary, with the NVMe as your primary, this will result in a faster overall boot drive, and you might even be able to only run SSD storage in the entire system, which is a boon.

At this point you should have saved several hundred $ compared to what you already had.

With those $ -
Grab a Seasonic TX750 - a really nice PSU, so efficient the fan is almost never activated.
Some Noctua NF-A12x25 fans - enough so that the only case fans in your case are those.
These two changes alone will quieten down your system by a lot.

If you want to go quieter - return both your CPU coolers - go for a Noctua U12A and tune it so fan speeds never go above 65%.
Swap the stock cooler on your 2070s with the Morpheus II, along with two more A12x25 fans. This will lead to lower temperatures and lower noise (therefore greater boost).

If you make it so the only fans running in your system are NF-A12x25, and none of them are going above 65% rpm, your system will be 24/7 silent through a case (source: personal experience).

The only other upgrade I would consider is moving to a 2080s, but that isn't really wise considering ampere and RX refresh are just around the corner.

That's just silly, paying 700 euros for a motherboard just because it has useless 10Gbps LAN, when a 10Gbps add-in card is 50$.
Buying a MSI Unify is a good choice, though, simply because it looks like the OP has an MSI video card, so syncing all the RGB with one software is safer and easier. That is the only reason to go MSI, really, since there is nothing fantastic about that VRM, it's regular VRM for a Z490, nothing special or great about it.
The rest of your advice follows the same trend, it seems. Stupid fast DDR4 on Intel gives you very little advantage for very much trouble in running it as intended, and for quite a price increase.
Also, D15>>>U12A, and I mean...much. It also looks nicer in the chromax.black variant. Don't let the reviews fool you, the D15 can actually keep the fans at 20-40% PWM in most gaming and regular usage scenarios, almost inaudible, while the U12A ...not so much.
The TX750 PSU is not as quiet as you might imagine, when the fan spins up, randomly, for no reason, it's annoyingly loud. That being said, all modern decent PSUs have zeroRPM funtion, so ... yeah, any GOld or Platinum PSU will do without braking the bank going for Titanium.

 

[Vayra86]

It's not unrealistic lmao to want some RGB on top of a quiet and fast system.

CPU 10700k definitely - 6 core parts won't age well whether you're keeping or selling later.
Mobo - MSI Unify (fantastic VRM without all the bells and whistles) or ASUS ROG Maximus XII Formula (10GBe).
RAM - 3600 kits are nice, but Intel has more headroom for frequency. I would return both the kits you have since you are still within the return window. Grab a Viper 4400mhz kit or any kit that can comfortably do 4133 with 16/17cas and tight subtimings.
I would return the 1tb 970 evo plus and swap it for a much cheaper 1tb sata - when rocket lake arrives grab the 980 evo/pro which will be PCIe4 (properly, as it's from Samsung), you can then use the 1tb sata as secondary, with the NVMe as your primary, this will result in a faster overall boot drive, and you might even be able to only run SSD storage in the entire system, which is a boon.

At this point you should have saved several hundred $ compared to what you already had.

With those $ -
Grab a Seasonic TX750 - a really nice PSU, so efficient the fan is almost never activated.
Some Noctua NF-A12x25 fans - enough so that the only case fans in your case are those.
These two changes alone will quieten down your system by a lot.

If you want to go quieter - return both your CPU coolers - go for a Noctua U12A and tune it so fan speeds never go above 65%.
Swap the stock cooler on your 2070s with the Morpheus II, along with two more A12x25 fans. This will lead to lower temperatures and lower noise (therefore greater boost).

If you make it so the only fans running in your system are NF-A12x25, and none of them are going above 65% rpm, your system will be 24/7 silent through a case (source: personal experience).

The only other upgrade I would consider is moving to a 2080s, but that isn't really wise considering ampere and RX refresh are just around the corner.

Good but expensive options. Cost effective this is not, but for chasing the upper 5% could work. Still,, these parts and then just air to cool it, seems out of order to me. You won't extract maximum on air.

Realistically though if you REALLY want to chase the upper 5% of perf for the parts you buy, you will need custom water. Lower temps make for the biggest improvement especially on GPU. This brings a new dilemma, because you will be considering pump and fan noise in a different way too.

Personally on Intel I'd keep the board on the cheap side because the baseline VRM section is just fine, buy the board based on features you need instead. Good RGB sync can be one of those definitely if that is a desire. Cooling: low RPM case fans, as large as you can fit. Dual stack tower on the CPU if air. Don't overspend on RAM.

Silence: get a case with sound dampening - any windowed option is off the table if you want quiet. Think along the lines of a Fractal Define R - and that right there is an example of problems when trying to tick all boxes - after all, no window = fancy RGB not visible. With a window, it really comes down to picking fans that work well at low RPM, and keeping the RPM as low as possible throughout the case. For GPU that is a problem.

 

[Alexandrus]

Funny thing : glass, as in the tempered glass that makes up the side panels of most modern cases, is much more noise dampening than any steel side panel. So it's actually the exact opposite as to what the above is saying.

 

[the54thvoid]

Funny thing : glass, as in the tempered glass that makes up the side panels of most modern cases, is much more noise dampening than any steel side panel. So it's actually the exact opposite as to what the above is saying.

Why would you even say that?

Is Tempered Glass More Soundproof? – Soundproof Central

soundproofcentral.com

Do your research. The steel side panels of noise-dampened cases are also lined with other sound-dampening material. Tempered glass is not.

 

[Nater]

Funny thing : glass, as in the tempered glass that makes up the side panels of most modern cases, is much more noise dampening than any steel side panel. So it's actually the exact opposite as to what the above is saying.

I can't believe that. Maybe if it was double-pane gas filled and sealed all the way around.

 

[dgianstefani]

33.1 dB(A) @ 300 Watt load.

Vermogende voedingen: 44 700-850W PSU's getest

De core-race is in volle gang en in combinatie met een dikke videokaart is een high-end systeem de laatste jaren alleen maar meer gaan verbruiken. Tijd...

nl.hardware.info

There's a button on the back that activates hybrid mode, when that's on, the fan only switches on when it's needed (600w+ power draw). 33dBa is just what it sounds like when it's on, and is still extremely quiet.

Good but expensive options. Cost effective this is not, but for chasing the upper 5% could work. Still,, these parts and then just air to cool it, seems out of order to me. You won't extract maximum on air.

Realistically though if you REALLY want to chase the upper 5% of perf for the parts you buy, you will need custom water. Lower temps make for the biggest improvement especially on GPU. This brings a new dilemma, because you will be considering pump and fan noise in a different way too.

Personally on Intel I'd keep the board on the cheap side because the baseline VRM section is jus. t fine, buy the board based on features you need instead. Good RGB sync can be one of those definitely if that is a desire. Cooling: low RPM case fans, as large as you can fit. Dual stack tower on the CPU if air. Don't overspend on RAM.

Silence: get a case with sound dampening - any windowed option is off the table if you want quiet. Think along the lines of a Fractal Define R - and that right there is an example of problems when trying to tick all boxes - after all, no window = fancy RGB not visible. With a window, it really comes down to picking fans that work well at low RPM, and keeping the RPM as low as possible throughout the case. For GPU that is a problem.

You don't know what you're talking about.
https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/batman-returns.257906/ - 5.8/5.2ghz on air.
Talking about overspending on ram when I'm recommending he return the trident royal and buy actual performance for cheaper.
Thinking gpu water cooling is the only way to get low gpu temps.

Raijintek Morpheus Review

Rajintek's new Morpheus VGA cooler is compatible with the Radeon R9 290X and GTX 780/Ti. It provides excellent temperatures and whisper-quiet noise levels, which will be a godsend for users of the Radeon R9 290X reference design who are plagued by high temperatures and noise.

www.techpowerup.com

Overall the build I recommended would be cheaper than his original 3800x build while being quieter, faster and with RGB. All things OP requested.

That's just silly, paying 700 euros for a motherboard just because it has useless 10Gbps LAN, when a 10Gbps add-in card is 50$.
Buying a MSI Unify is a good choice, though, simply because it looks like the OP has an MSI video card, so syncing all the RGB with one software is safer and easier. That is the only reason to go MSI, really, since there is nothing fantastic about that VRM, it's regular VRM for a Z490, nothing special or great about it.
The rest of your advice follows the same trend, it seems. Stupid fast DDR4 on Intel gives you very little advantage for very much trouble in running it as intended, and for quite a price increase.
Also, D15>>>U12A, and I mean...much. It also looks nicer in the chromax.black variant. Don't let the reviews fool you, the D15 can actually keep the fans at 20-40% PWM in most gaming and regular usage scenarios, almost inaudible, while the U12A ...not so much.
The TX750 PSU is not as quiet as you might imagine, when the fan spins up, randomly, for no reason, it's annoyingly loud. That being said, all modern decent PSUs have zeroRPM funtion, so ... yeah, any GOld or Platinum PSU will do without braking the bank going for Titanium.

Maximus VII formula is a
500 not a 700
board, and it's better in other ways other than just 10GBe lol. Just because it's out of your budget.... Plus it's what the OP originally wanted, and it's a solid choice so...
I have the tx750 and its silent when you enable hybrid mode.
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/msi-meg-z490-unify/16.html "top tier vrm performance" I suggest you do your research

 

[Vayra86]

There's a button on the back that activates hybrid mode, when that's on, the fan only switches on when it's needed (600w+ power draw). 33dBa is just what it sounds like when it's on, and is still extremely quiet.



You don't know what you're talking about.
https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/batman-returns.257906/ - 5.8/5.2ghz on air.
Talking about overspending on ram when I'm recommending he return the trident royal and buy actual performance for cheaper.
Thinking gpu water cooling is the only way to get low gpu temps.

Raijintek Morpheus Review

Rajintek's new Morpheus VGA cooler is compatible with the Radeon R9 290X and GTX 780/Ti. It provides excellent temperatures and whisper-quiet noise levels, which will be a godsend for users of the Radeon R9 290X reference design who are plagued by high temperatures and noise.

www.techpowerup.com

Overall the build I recommended would be cheaper than his original 3800x build while being quieter, faster and with RGB. All things OP requested.

We don't need to butt heads on this, its just different points of view. You're comparing apples and oranges, that is not a 10th gen CPU and you're linking a golden CPU example here. Way to get the right impression across for an average build for someone else! Very nice. How do you set someone up for the next dissappointment 101.

I mean... what brought you to link this:

which is a special edition, best bin version of the 8700K... to discuss a regular bin 10th gen CPU. Best of it all is that you have a 8700K that required a delid to get 5.2 Ghz. Can you add some irony on top? I doubt it.

In the real world, most CPUs are not binned quite so well and the fact remains temps enable better clocks/voltages, so lower temps increase your chances of a good outcome. So IF you do chase the top end, air is not the best guarantee you can get there. It will get you the 95%. But the top 5%? Only if you are very lucky.

The other points I'm not contesting at all... its just different approaches to what you want to build, isn't it? But its not recommended to mix and match between those approaches, because the end result is bad balance in budget/performance/result. In a similar way you don't pair an i3 with a 2080ti.

 

[cucker tarlson]

33.1 dB(A) @ 300 Watt load.

Vermogende voedingen: 44 700-850W PSU's getest

De core-race is in volle gang en in combinatie met een dikke videokaart is een high-end systeem de laatste jaren alleen maar meer gaan verbruiken. Tijd...

nl.hardware.info

thanks for this test ! love the what's quietest at 500w chart !!!
just wish there was superflower psus on this list.