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Alphacool Unveils the CORE XP³ Brass CPU Water Block

@ThrashZone
I do not contradict myself. Of course, brass is harder than acetal. But acetal is still a hard material. Destroying an acetal thread requires a lot of force. In general, you should not use that much force to screw on a fitting. You will never be able to overtighten an acetal thread by hand. You will need a tool to do that and you should never do that when screwing in fittings. Otherwise you will destroy the O-ring on the fitting and the whole thing will leak.

There are also differences in the quality of acetal. Buy a cooler or AGB of acetal from us, you will not get a scratch with a fingernail pure. You just have to know how to do it. There are also differences in the quality of acetal, depending on how it is treated and processed.
 
EddyAlphacool said:
@ThrashZone
I do not contradict myself. Of course, brass is harder than acetal. But acetal is still a hard material. Destroying an acetal thread requires a lot of force. In general, you should not use that much force to screw on a fitting. You will never be able to overtighten an acetal thread by hand. You will need a tool to do that and you should never do that when screwing in fittings. Otherwise you will destroy the O-ring on the fitting and the whole thing will leak.

There are also differences in the quality of acetal. Buy a cooler or AGB of acetal from us, you will not get a scratch with a fingernail pure. You just have to know how to do it. There are also differences in the quality of acetal, depending on how it is treated and processed.
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Hi,
If you would of quoted me you'd see I didn't or never said anything about messing up any acetal threads.

ThrashZone said:
Prime example
Use simple easy to get woodworking router bit
Acetal would be as easy as butter with one
Brass it would be destroyed as soon as it hits it.
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This is the only reference to some thing being destroyed
 
@ThrashZone
It was not my intention to insinuate anything. I'm sorry if that came across wrong. Only when I explain something, then so that others also understand it or I try to explain it as well as possible for all, so that it is clear and understandable for all.
 
@EddyAlphacool

While you are here i would like to ask you if the DC-LT 2600 pump will have enough pressure to run a CPU + GPU + two 240mm rads ( all fairly low impedance ) with very short tube lenght between the components ( certainly less than a 1m total lenght ) ?
 
@RH92
I would not recommend it. It will work, but not very well or the flow will be extremely low. Depending on the overall design, it may not work at all. The pump is a bit weak for that.
 
EddyAlphacool said:
@RH92
I would not recommend it. It will work, but not very well or the flow will be extremely low. Depending on the overall design, it may not work at all. The pump is a bit weak for that.
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Got you , i guess i will give it a go with a single one and add a second one in the loop if need be .
 
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Kinda sad it's all powder coated. :( Would look way more unique if the separated edges would expose some brushed brass.

EddyAlphacool said:
Honestly.... Brass doesn't really do anything better than acetal. It's better in feel, the weight makes it feel better, and some believe that a brass top makes for better heat distribution and therefore better heat absorption. But the latter is actually wrong. According to our measurements, brass tops do not provide any temperature advantages. Many still want a brass version because it simply feels better and is not "plastic". If you don't care, you can simply take the acetal version. There are definitely no disadvantages. (Unless you want to believe in it compulsively :D :cool: )
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Some tests would be interesting. Acetal vs. Brass, turn off the pump & clock what system shuts down first. Bet the brass version wins. :D
 
MarsM4N said:
Kinda sad it's all powder coated. :( Would look way more unique if the separated edges would expose some brushed brass.



Some tests would be interesting. Acetal vs. Brass, turn off the pump & clock what system shuts down first. Bet the brass version wins. :D
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Hi,
Yeah I did test my optimus sigV2 brass against my optimus foundation acrylic
The difference was clear at maximum clocks the sigV2 was 2c better and I love the foundation to but day to day gaming/... nonsense yeah doubt anyone would notice but this techpowerup not default clocks com so turn on the heater baby benchmark the shit out of the system and brass will win every time on the same setup and clocks.
This testing was with my x299 system 28 threads so lots of heat from 9940x to try and keep cool at 4.9.
 
Blaylock said:
With AM5 launching next month I'm curious why there's no support for it.
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To put it on the record here. All current coolers and AIOs from us that are currently compatible with AM4 are also fully compatible with AM5.
You don't need a new socket mount or other parts. So you can easily move your coolers and AIOs from AM4 to AM5 with the mounting bracket you already have.

The whole thing we will also communicate via PR next week again to the outside.
 
EddyAlphacool said:
@Crackong
Yes, you can choose any orrentation you want, also with all our XPX (non Pro) cooler on every compatible socket.
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May I ask, if I just want cooling performance on AM4, which block should I pick from the Alphacool selection?
 
@Crackong
Any XPX cooler would be the best. Doesn`t matter which of them. The differences are ~1k between all of them.
 
EddyAlphacool said:
@Crackong
Any XPX cooler would be the best. Doesn`t matter which of them. The differences are ~1k between all of them.
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The difference between 1K is actually quite extreme. LMAO I'm sure you meant ~1C.
 
HenrySomeone said:
He could have well meant 1K (although it should be with a capital K, not k) as in 1 degree kelvin, the scientific temp scale (increments are the same as C).
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Oh snap. I never realized they scale the same. Thanks for pointing that out Henry.
 
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