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Chieftec Announces the Hunter 2 ATX Gaming Case

btarunr

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Building on the success of the original Hunter ATX gaming case, the CHIEFTEC Hunter 2 features a larger mesh area for optimized airflow, combined with brushed aluminium panels for a clean and elegant design. At the same time, functionality is improved by a hinged door made of tempered glass and USB Type-C on the top IO. The Hunter 2 features a brightness button and an RGB pattern button to control the 4 pre-installed A-RGB fans via a control hub, which also enables M/B sync and fan speed control to create a stylish vibe. 280 mm radiator support and a maximum GPU length of 320 mm enables the assembly of capable modern gaming systems.



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Looks fine to me, but it'll depend on pricing. $100-120 would be competitive with other cases of this type, under $100 would make this quite the bargain, assuming it comes with the ARGB fans shown.
 
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Same case, different glass panel and front mesh.
 
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So it is possible to have Power and Reset button along with Power and Drive LEDs on front panel while having integrated controls for A/RGB lighting. If only idiots at Fractal, Bequite, Lian-Li, etc... were to open their eyes.
 
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So it is possible to have Power and Reset button along with Power and Drive LEDs on front panel while having integrated controls for A/RGB lighting. If only idiots at Fractal, Bequite, Lian-Li, etc... were to open their eyes.
They're copying Apple; It's "fashionable" to have a woeful lack of IO and charge more for the privilege of being metaphorically spat on by designers.

My 4000D has no drive activity LEDs, a total of 2 USB ports, the USB-C being broken from new, no lighting controls and an obsolete 3.5mm combo jack 5+ years after phones started ignoring 3.5mm combo-jacks and desktop mic's/headsets either requiring USB of dedicated microphone-in connector, not a combo jack.

I rewire the power LED to the disk activity light, and thankfully I don't care about onboard audio or RGBLED, otherwise the 4000D would be an atrocious case.
Power LEDs are also obsolete now, since it's very very difficult to buy a decent case without a glass side panel, and equally difficult to build a PC with zero lighting on every single component. For me, the one thing that I can't disable is the diagnostic display that shows 00 for normal boot.
 
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Why block some of the fans in the front like that, kind of stupid.

"Optimized for airflow" doesn't just mean slapping some mesh here and there.
 
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Why block some of the fans in the front like that, kind of stupid.

"Optimized for airflow" doesn't just mean slapping some mesh here and there.
The fans aren't rammed right up against the mesh, so there's more than enough airflow. I suspect this is actually a decent implementation providing enough intake to not hinder the fan airflow, whilst also providing acoustic baffling around half of the swept circumference of each fan with an indirect air path - and that outer edge is where the fan noise actually comes from.

That's likely coincidence rather than intelligent acoustic design, but I think it will be quieter than a full mesh front whilst offering near-zero flow restriction. I don't have enough info about the mesh type of fan RPM to plug it into a calculator but I'm willing to bet that this amount of front mesh has already passed the point of diminishing returns.
 
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The fans aren't rammed right up against the mesh, so there's more than enough airflow. I suspect this is actually a decent implementation providing enough intake to not hinder the fan airflow, whilst also providing acoustic baffling around half of the swept circumference of each fan with an indirect air path - and that outer edge is where the fan noise actually comes from.
They look very close to the front to me, like less than 1cm, an extra 2cm of mesh on either side wouldn't have made a difference in noise. I just don't understand what they are thinking when they make these, you are supposed to provide at least the same area of mesh that the fans occupy, It's the most logical thing to do.

Fans make the most noise when there is something obstructing them, the best thing you can do to optimize for noise and airflow is to make sure there isn't much resistance.
 
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They look very close to the front to me, like less than 1cm, an extra 2cm of mesh on either side wouldn't have made a difference in noise. I just don't understand what they are thinking when they make these, you are supposed to provide at least the same area of mesh that the fans occupy, It's the most logical thing to do.

Fans make the most noise when there is something obstructing them, the best thing you can do to optimize for noise and airflow is to make sure there isn't much resistance.
It's not that simple. The fan hub sucks no air at all, and along the blade's length you have two factors multiplied together for exponentially more airflow towards the tips. Not only does the part of the blade nearer the hub cover a smaller area, it's moving slower too. More than half of a fan's frontal area is completely useless and accounts for less than 10% of the fan's actual airflow and damn near zero static pressure.

Anyway, it's irrelevant because there's plenty of clearance - looks like at least 35mm here, possibly more - which means at least 10mm of space before the mesh:

1698678468010.png
 
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Same case, different glass panel and front mesh.
"Meet the new boss...same as the old boss" - The Who :D
So it is possible to have Power and Reset button along with Power and Drive LEDs on front panel while having integrated controls for A/RGB lighting. If only idiots at Fractal, Bequite, Lian-Li, etc... were to open their eyes.
Eyes wide shut....
All the light they can't see....
If you look into the light, the light will become you....

Take your pick :D
 

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Better pics on their site and think it's alright but with other good cases around the $100 it be up for some tough competition.

In Europe it looks like it will retail for around 70 EUR:
 
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They're copying Apple; It's "fashionable" to have a woeful lack of IO and charge more for the privilege of being metaphorically spat on by designers.

My 4000D has no drive activity LEDs, a total of 2 USB ports, the USB-C being broken from new, no lighting controls and an obsolete 3.5mm combo jack 5+ years after phones started ignoring 3.5mm combo-jacks and desktop mic's/headsets either requiring USB of dedicated microphone-in connector, not a combo jack.

I rewire the power LED to the disk activity light, and thankfully I don't care about onboard audio or RGBLED, otherwise the 4000D would be an atrocious case.
Power LEDs are also obsolete now, since it's very very difficult to buy a decent case without a glass side panel, and equally difficult to build a PC with zero lighting on every single component. For me, the one thing that I can't disable is the diagnostic display that shows 00 for normal boot.

Got a 7000D, does it have power or hdd leds? or have i just not connected them. I do like it, though it was expensive.
 
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Got a 7000D, does it have power or hdd leds? or have i just not connected them. I do like it, though it was expensive.
The power button lights up if you connected it correctly.
As I said, a light to tell you the PC is turned on is redundant if you have any lighting on any of your components whatsoever, so I just wire the power light into the motherboards "HDD_LED" header to show disk activity instead.
 
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