3rd radiator...

[bpgt64]

So I am considering making the following modifications;

1. Currently I am using 1200 RPM AF noctua fans...going to 1700 RPM SP fans from Noctua...all 7 spots. Trying to increase my loops performance when I was running a 2080 Ti and a 3950x my CPU would never go above 60C but it was definitely higher than it used to be when my situation was --> GPU -->Rad -->CPU -->rad --> Pump/Res combo repeat.
2. Installing a new front plate from performance PC parts with fan holes/mounts so I can put 3 intake fans at the front of the case instead of the plexi
3. Installing a new 3rd 120 mm EK Classic PE radiator (45mm thick) in the exhaust 120mm fan port ( the classic as a smaller width/height than the current edition so it should fit) -- The goal being here to go from Distro to GPU to 120mm radiator -> CPU block -> distro block return -> 2x360mm Slim Rads -pump then the loop repeats. The goal being to remove about 150-200W of heat from the loop after the GPU before the CPU. This also should simplify the tubing layout a bit...by removing a return run to distro between the GPU/CPU.

Overall replacing the AF fans with SP fans at a higher RPM should be the best help...I am also considering puting the bottom fans on the bottom rad in a different configuration, pushing air out the bottom, instead of intaking.

Thoughts?

 

[FinneousPJ]

First make sure your rads are getting fresh, cold air. What is the direction of flow for each? If your bottom is intake, and rear and top is outlet, it might be the top rad is getting warm air.

 

[bpgt64]

First make sure your rads are getting fresh, cold air. What is the direction of flow for each? If your bottom is intake, and rear and top is outlet, it might be the top rad is getting warm air.

Yes there getting cold air, I have a mini split in my room just because of the computer equipment, it stays at about 68F all the time. At the moment the bottom is the intake and the top is the outlet. Hence why I was considering swapping/reversing the output so the bottom sends air down out the bottom, and setting up intake with a new front panel.

 

[Aquinus]

First make sure your rads are getting fresh, cold air. What is the direction of flow for each? If your bottom is intake, and rear and top is outlet, it might be the top rad is getting warm air.

This. 2x360mm rads should be more than enough cooling capacity. What you need is to make sure that the rads are fed cold air. If the top rad is exhausting and the bottom one is an intake, the top rad is going to not work as well because it's being cooled with the already heated air from the bottom. If I were you, I would suggest trying to make both the top and bottom be intakes with only the rear being an exhaust. That gives you positive pressure in the case to keep dust from getting in from cracks (assuming you have filters before the rads,) and it allows both rads to get cold air. The exhaust fan would be merely to direct the heat in the direction that you want it to go, so it doesn't have to be all that powerful.

 

[FinneousPJ]

This. 3x360mm rads should be more than enough cooling capacity. What you need is to make sure that the rads are fed cold air. If the top rad is exhausting and the bottom one is an intake, the top rad is going to not work as well because it's being cooled with the already heated air from the bottom. If I were you, I would suggest trying to make both the top and bottom be intakes with only the rear being an exhaust. That gives you positive pressure in the case to keep dust from getting in from cracks (assuming you have filters before the rads,) and it allows both rads to get cold air. The exhaust fan would be merely to direct the heat in the direction that you want it to go.

Yeah, I would try this before buying anything new.

If it doesn't work, it might be your flow rate is too low, but let's go one step at time.

 

[John Naylor]

1. What is the goal here..... I keep pushing my OC until I break 75C or it becomes unstable ... At stock, I'm about 50C. I don't quite understand what breaking 60C brings to the table. I have a 780 watt heat load w/ (2) GFX cards, CPU and MoBo Block, 250 ml and twin pumps. ... 5 x 140mm of rad and just the 5 fans ... had them in push / pull but didn't need the performance. Under stress testing, the 1200 rpm fans are between 800 and 850 rpm... heavy gaming they don't often break 600 rpm. The fans are Phanteks SP series 140mm and the system is dead silent ... if you take the Noctua AF fans off a Noctual cooler and replace them with these, CPU temps drop 6.3C at same rpm.

Phanteks PH-F140(XP, SP, SP_LED) Fans: Testing - Phanteks PH-F140 (XP, SP, SP_LED) Case Fan Review - Page 3

2. Of course, every rad fan blows fresh, cool ambient air into the case. First law of Water Cooling is "never mix metals" ... 2nd rule is "Rad Fans always blow in"

3. Installing fans in the exhaust position at rear of case puts ya in a pickle. If its exhausting air from the case, you are using preheated case air to cool your CPU ... if you use it as intake, then its using preheated PSU and GFX card exhast air as intake air.

4. I'd drop the 120mm and keep just the twin 360s ... should be no need to get the faster rpm fans.

5. What is the pumping rate ? I usually look for something between 1.0 and 1.50 gpm

6. If ya got a hankerin for thermodynamics, you can do the math with the radiator size estimator here

Radiator Size Estimator

A few peeps have asked me to provide this info in an easily accessible / findable spot so the don't have to remember what thread it is in or take snippets from multiple threads. If ya find it useful, great .... if ya like something better, by all means use what ya comfy with. First off, I did...

www.overclock.net

 

[nguyen]

oh god what have you done to the beautiful Lian Li 011 case

Just get better radiator fans, best ones are Noctua NF-A12x25 or Arctic P12 (best value). Thicker radiators or higher FPI radiators are also recommended.
Loop order make almost no difference, water that has just passed the GPU would only be 0.5-1C hotter, barely make any difference to CPU temp.
Fans order also make no difference, although I would go for neutral pressure (bottom intake, top exhaust)

 

[bpgt64]

GPU will be added to the loop eventually, just waiting on a 3080 Strix/EK waterblock to come in.

The goal is to go from the GPU block to the rear exhaust radiator to remove some of the heat before it goes back to the CPU-> then back to the distro plate.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
Looks good and sounds like a good plan.

 

[EarthDog]

Wondering how 2x360mm worth of radiator isn't doing the job already... That config would handle a 3080 too...

As far as loop order, outside of the res being before the pump, loop order doesn't matter temperature wise. It is a closed loop that is circulating a few times /minute (assuming 1.5 GPH flow). If it does make more than 1-2C difference, something is up in the loop (lack of flow).

 

[bpgt64]

Also I’m using an DDC 3.25 pump. Not a stock 3.1. I even added the extra heat sink/cooler housing for the pump after 3.1 pump died after a year of use.
These are the fans I am putting in

Amazon.com: Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM, High Performance Cooling Fan, 4-Pin, 1700 RPM (120mm, Grey): Computers & Accessories

Buy Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM, High Performance Cooling Fan, 4-Pin, 1700 RPM (120mm, Grey): Case Fans - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
I'd likely do at least 2000 rpm I didn't see any in gray.
Best to use push/ pull on rads.

 

[maxfly]

Those redux 1700s are great low rpm fans but they get really loud at high rpm especially when against a rad or case vent. They cool nicely regardless and cost quite a bit less than most premium noctuas. Im running 3 (2 inlet/1 exhaust) in my air cooled back up rig. Never hear them unless im benching.
Edit- dont forget to order some corner pieces for them. I forget what noctua calls them.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
Yeah funny those fans don't come with anti vibration pads
Guess you could use rubber/ plastic washers to do the same job they won't be seen all that much.

 

[nguyen]

For better fans at lower price use the Arctic P12, they offer pretty similar perf/noise to the Noctua NF-A12x25. I already put the vid above.

 

[bpgt64]

I already own the AF12 s tbh and the SP 12s are designed for static pressure and kind of are already purchased . But I appreciate the info