All my HDD/SSD issues resolved to a single issue

[80251]

I had to use a molex to dual SATA power connector because the SATA cables couldn't reach that far, but the +5V pin on the molex was loose, which resulted in all kinds of bizarre behaviour that made it look as if my HDD and/or SSD was dying -- incl. the SSD and HDD being detected in BIOS but not by Windows.

 

[eidairaman1]

I had to use a molex to dual SATA power connector because the SATA cables couldn't reach that far, but the +5V pin on the molex was loose, which resulted in all kinds of bizarre behaviour that made it look as if my HDD and/or SSD was dying -- incl. the SSD and HDD being detected in BIOS but not by Windows.

Just means the barrel on molex end needs tightening

 

[80251]

The clip on the pin for +5V was barely catching in the housing, so that when you mated the two connectors it would push the pin back into the connector. I ended up using another one with locking clips for the SATA power connectors.

 

[eidairaman1]

The clip on the pin for +5V was barely catching in the housing, so that when you mated the two connectors it would push the pin back into the connector. I ended up using another one with locking clips for the SATA power connectors.

Thats all i see come with motherboards today, is locking tabs.

 

[80251]

The locking tabs are on the molex-to-dual-SATA power connector. Something I've haven't see on any PSU yet.

 

[MarsM4N]

So I guess I was right then.

From my experience the manufacturing accuracy for molex connectors is really bad. It's just such a simple detail, easily overlooked.

Takes ages to to find the problem & in the meanwhile all the spinups is degrading your drive.

 

[80251]

This also explains why Hitachi DFT wasn't able to find the HDD in question, even though the BIOS was.

 

[AleXXX666]

The clip on the pin for +5V was barely catching in the housing, so that when you mated the two connectors it would push the pin back into the connector. I ended up using another one with locking clips for the SATA power connectors.

when i saw these sh*t for the first time, I now always look to accurate molex connection when still needed lol.

I had to use a molex to dual SATA power connector because the SATA cables couldn't reach that far, but the +5V pin on the molex was loose, which resulted in all kinds of bizarre behaviour that made it look as if my HDD and/or SSD was dying -- incl. the SSD and HDD being detected in BIOS but not by Windows.

my sugg get a psu with normal cable length for your case. and modular one of course.

 

[80251]

@AleXXX666 I'm trying to get a new case (I already have a Seasonic 850 Watt Focus GM-850 (and am already wondering if I should've got something more powerful than 850 watts considering where TDP and TBP figures are going for videocards these days)

 

[ExcuseMeWtf]

Yep, loose contact on pins is known to cause voltage fluctuations, and potentially excessive heating. Worst case scenario is fire.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
Sata connection is more reliable
But majorty of connections are just smaller molex pin system on mother board/ female on psu cables.

 

[eidairaman1]

@AleXXX666 I'm trying to get a new case (I already have a Seasonic 850 Watt Focus GM-850 (and am already wondering if I should've got something more powerful than 850 watts considering where TDP and TBP figures are going for videocards these days)

850 is plenty, just forget nv gpus.

 

[Nike_486DX]

also watch out for the 3.3v (orange), because if you use molex to sata adapter then you only have 12 and 5 (but no 3.3 which some ssds do use).

 

[80251]

also watch out for the 3.3v (orange), because if you use molex to sata adapter then you only have 12 and 5 (but no 3.3 which some ssds do use).

I don't know which SSD's use 3.3V though. My SATA Samsung 850's don't.

Interestingly enough, using the legacy SATA 3.3V can cause problems with any HDD's using the newer SATA 3.3 standard PWDIS feature:
https://www.tomshardware.com/news/hdd-sata-power-disable-feature,36146.html

 

[Nike_486DX]

I don't know which SSD's use 3.3V though. My SATA Samsung 850's don't.

Interestingly enough, using the legacy SATA 3.3V can cause problems with any HDD's using the newer SATA 3.3 standard PWDIS feature:
https://www.tomshardware.com/news/hdd-sata-power-disable-feature,36146.html

Every msata and m.2 sata ssd uses 3.3v, i usually get these instead of 2.5 inch ssds, and then run them with an adapter. Really convenient for sff builds because m.2 is smaller, and also you can see the internals without disassembling it (so you can verify the type of memory and if its got dram or not, prior to purchasing). The adapters i use are normal ones, without any additional circuitry. The 3.3v just goes from 3.3 sata and into the ssd. If i used a molex to sata adapter that surely wouldnt work (as there is no 3.3v). But nowadays even the cheapest power supplies provide more than 10x sata connections so 3.3v can be taken from anywhere

 

[AleXXX666]

@AleXXX666 I'm trying to get a new case (I already have a Seasonic 850 Watt Focus GM-850 (and am already wondering if I should've got something more powerful than 850 watts considering where TDP and TBP figures are going for videocards these days)

850 seasonic is VERY GOOD, unless you don't want REALLY 3090ti and 12900k lol.

 

[80251]

@AleXXX666
I guess if 850 Watts isn't enough for a videocard and CPU I don't think my lousy bedroom circuit breaker would be able to handle that much power draw anyway. My kensington masterpiece plus power breakout box already screams like a banshee when I game with my existing system to indicate the line voltage has dropped below 104VAC, although I really don't think the line power is actually dropping that low.