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AS5 issue?

eidairaman1

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The P4 cooler mount on skt775 had the same pushpin mounted coolers as this. After removing the cooler once or twice, I found that it didn't have enough clamping force to actually cool the C2D E6600 I was using it with. First time use, worked okay but, clamping force got worse with every subsequent remount which is reason alone to not use them.

Skt 478, not 775.
 
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There are people who remove the push-pin mounts and use bolts and nuts. The result is usually better. In my experience the push pin Intel coolers don't really work well beyond the initial mount, I think the plastic fatigues, stretches.
 
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Yeah no joke, I like P4 mount bracket.
Are you referring to this Pentium 4 mounting bracket for Socket 478?

To much clamping force causing the board to bend?
 
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Are you referring to this Pentium 4 mounting bracket for Socket 478?

To much clamping force causing the board to bend?
I rather have that slight bend than having insufficient mounting force making the CPU runs hotter than it should. I used that stock heatsink overclocking Northwood Pentium 4 2GHz all the way up to 3GHz without any issue
 

eidairaman1

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Never had a problem with board faults
 

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So my question is Arctic Silver 5 is not good enough to use as a TIM between die and IHS, or as a general purpose TIM for that matter? It keeps crapping in few months and its getting annoying. Is there any other good alternative to AS5? Any responses would be appreciated.

If you've de-lidded, the only TIM to work long term is liquid metal - the other types slowly get affected by gravity and slide out. (or vibration from the HSF/pump... no ones sure, but its a documented problem)

I went through this with my 3770k (and then 4770k, and a friends 3570k) where the temps just went up and up and up, bringing back the variance between all the cores - Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut solved it for all our chips, and got the temps lower than AS5/MX4
 

hat

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Is that Conductonaut similar to the Liquid Metal?
 
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There are people who remove the push-pin mounts and use bolts and nuts. The result is usually better. In my experience the push pin Intel coolers don't really work well beyond the initial mount, I think the plastic fatigues, stretches.

ive done this and was able to run an i5-3570k at 4.5 ghz but i also had the chip delided and ran it directly on it.

edit. you have to remove the cpu retention bracket off the mobo and use the cooler as the clamp witch is not to much a problem, just make sure it aligns without any issues.
 
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Is that Conductonaut similar to the Liquid Metal?
It is liquid metal. There's only 4 kinds of liquid metal TIM on the market that I know of.

  • Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut
  • Phobya Liquid Metal
  • Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra
  • Coollaboratory Liquid Pro
 
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hat

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That's what I was thinking of, the Coollab stuff.
 
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All very similar. Conductonaut is supposedly the best(highest thermal conductivity).
  • Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - 73 W/mk
  • Phobya Liquid Metal - 40 W/mk
  • Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra - 38.4 W/mk
  • Coollaboratory Liquid Pro - 32.6 W/mk
I've used Liquid Ultra and Conductonaut. Conductonaut does seem to work a little better(barely, but noticeable, like 2-3°C ish). CLU is easier to apply though. It's got a very slightly grainy/pasty texture to it, and spreads really easily. Conductonaut takes some extra effort to get it spread around, and spread out evenly.
 
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I used that stock heatsink overclocking Northwood Pentium 4 2GHz all the way up to 3GHz without any issue
Overclocked a Northwood stock clock 2.8 GHz to 3.4 using the below Zalman CNPS6500B-Cu heatsink. Only weighted 898 grams.
 

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If you've de-lidded, the only TIM to work long term is liquid metal - the other types slowly get affected by gravity and slide out.

So what happens to the stock Intel TIM between die and IHS after a few years? Does it slide out also??
 
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The stock from Intel was waxy/gum like when I delidded the 4790K. TIM didn't seem dried out or going anywhere to me.
 
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I just wanted to update on my problem. It looks like neither the AS5 or my Seidon 240M is causing the CPU to heat up. Its my crappy case ventilation! I noticed the top grille (pictured below) gets extremely warm under load since that's the spot I put the 240mm radiator so for some experiment I removed the grilled and voila! The temperature reduces significantly. I can clock up to 4.4GHz without it ever exceed 75C. At my normal clock 4.2Ghz it doesn't exceed 65C.

grille.jpg
 
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Makes sense, the holes on that air so small. They would definitely disrupt air flow. You could take the front grill off too. Air filters are overrated as are mesh. If you must run a grill run the wire ones, they have the least airflow disruption.
 
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