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Plenty of people have done it that way. The 1200 has two 120mm fans blowing out the back, so using the exhaust air is perfect, and adding two additional pull fans on the other side of the radiator would get you some good flow across the radiator fins.
If you have a good hardware store nearby, you just need to find the right assortment of screws, spacers, etc to mount it.
One word of caution, make sure the EK radiator can purge with the barbs on the bottom, it looks like the hose holes are below where the radiator would go. If it can't purge when mounted like that, it's difficult to fill, plus trap air making it less effective.
That case should most probably be able to provide installation of radiator on back of chassis.
Please check template of Coolstream 240XT radiator on web page and compare required dimensions.
However if you wish to install out of chassis, then this may help. "
That's what they said to me :\
That case should most probably be able to provide installation of radiator on back of chassis.
Please check template of Coolstream 240XT radiator on web page and compare required dimensions.
However if you wish to install out of chassis, then this may help. "
That's what they said to me :\
I took the liberty of linking some pics of the case. It looks quite straight forward to hang a 240mm radiator on the back. Hell, it's got 2 x 120 mm fans in place already.
@OP in relation to Sasqui's response: Good general advice, but a few clarifications, from personal research...
Be careful... that Antec 200mm radiator is aluminum which means you'll have to take measures to prevent galvanic corrosion if you use it since everything else will be copper. Nickel plated blocks are basically meant to help prevent galvanic corrosion, and I believe there's additives you can use that will help. It's not that you can't use it, just be aware of the risks and plan accordingly. Even if you decide to use the special made 200mm radiator, that 200mm fan up top might not provide the best characteristics for pulling air through a rad. One way to find out I guess...
Agreed 100% on EK quality. I'd stay away from their Nickel plated blocks though unless you can get the newer EN nickel blocks, their old ones were having issues with the plating coming off, just FYI.
Will the stuff fit in your 1200? Probably doable. I'm managing to fit a full-blown custom WC loop in an Antec 900 but it'll require heavy modding for mine. The 1200 is a bigger case so you'll have more room to work with.
PS - > If you mount a rad outside the case, you'll have to modify the case door. The fan mounts are too close to the side of the case and the door will hit the rad. If you use CASE>Fan>Rad mounting (using the fan as a spacer since it'll be narrower than your rad), you might get away without cutting anything. You can test by mounting a fan on the outside of the case, and seeing if the case door will still latch on. Here's some pics of my mount on the similar antec 900 to give you an idea.
I was doing a push-pull config with fans on both sides of my rad, and didn't want my rad hanging that far off the back of my case (not to mention I was cutting the case anyway since I wanted the tubes to go directly into the case rather than through the provided openings), so I never even bothered to check if there was clearance to do it using the fan first the way I described to you
. First of all, I'm new to water cooling, so I want to begin with a pre-made Kit.
