I did assemble my new computer - But it doesn't work.

[Sluppermand]

Hello guys,
I ordered these parts for a new computer the 13th of January:

Case: Be Quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 Rev. 2 - Black & Silver
MB: Asus Rog Strix X570-E Gaming
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900x
CPU FAN: Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4
RAM: 2*16gb G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3600Mhz C14-15-15-35
GFX: ASUS Radeon 6900 XT Strix LC OC
M.2: WD Black SN850 PCIe 4.0
PSU: Be Quiet! Straight Power 11 Platinum 1000

The shop have so far been unable to get the PSU and CPU, so I ordered these items to take their spot temporarily: (It was killing me, to have this top class and highly expensive graphics card laying in the shop, while wasting value)
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600
PSU: Gigabyte P850GM
(Just a sidenote, I will never again buy a Gigabyte PSU, I had to cut some plastic off of the 4+4 pin connecters, to make them fit in the graphics card - There is only space for 1 of those pieces to keep it in the socket, not the 2 that comes from each of the 4 pin connecters)

I have used the past 24+ hours on/off, aassembling my new computer, and when I were finally done, I did plug it in, and were exited to see it finally working. However, when I turn on the power supply, light shows on the motherboard, light is shown in the GFX where the power cords are connected, but the RGB ram stickers is not lighting up. No fans are spinning.
Should the RGB ram sticks start shining as soon as the PSU is turned on, just like the other parts?
When I push the power botton, I can hear a small sound, but absolutely nothing happens.

I have throughout my life, built a decent amount of computers, but NEVER before (And hopefully never again - Execept when I'm upgrading the PSU and CPU - ARGH!!) in a Be Quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 Rev. 2 - Damn that is alot of frustration added to the table!

I guess I would in a case, where I could get to the ram sticks, try and take them out, and put them back in, however, to do that, I need to remove the Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 cooler, which would force me to get out my motherboard, which pretty much requires me to disassemble the entire rig.

The Ryzen 5 3600 cpu, is generation 3, which should be supported by the Motherboard without updating firmware.

The ram sticks are actually the Intel ram sticks, I didn't realise that, until I had them in my hands. But as far as I'm informed, that shouldn't matter. They might not be able to run their optimal speeds, due to being Intel and not AMD ram sticks (XMP vs AMP), but it shouldn't prevent the computer from booting.

Any help is highly appreciated.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
3600c14 is new stuff mostly for z490 that I've read so yeah likely not amd compatible it takes a lot of dimm voltage 1.45v I believe to achieve c14 pretty funny if you think about it lol
3600c16 is good for amd and only needs 1.35v dimm voltage so yeah is c14 really worth turning sticks into space heaters

Gigabyte well just look at the last part of the name should give you a clue what's to come byte/ bites I personally wouldn't buy anything of theirs sure not some new psu.

 

[Mathragh]

Has happened to all of us over the years when building PC's. It's why usually we like to test a system for the first time with the motherboard outside of the case, just to make sure all the new parts are working and you didn't make a (small) mistake.
The RAM should work at least at it's JEDEC programmed default speeds, so that shouldn't matter when first booting up.

I'm afraid for you the way forwards really is disassembling the PC again and try it with 1 stick, reseat the CPU, re-check all your cabling etcetera. This is the only way to rule out any user mistake or faulty component.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I don't see where you said how much RAM (or number of sticks) you installed. It looks like, according to the QVL, that board only supports 2 sticks of G.Skill 3600 RAM with those 14-25-25-35 timings.

Note that cases are designed to support 1000s of different motherboards. So, it is common for cases to have more motherboard mounting points than boards have mounting holes. And while the ATX Form Factor standard dictates where motherboard mounting holes “can” be on motherboards, it does not dictate where they “will” be. So, one board may have a mounting hole in a specific place while another may not.

A common mistake by the less experienced and distracted pros alike is to insert one or more extra standoff in the case under the motherboard. Any extra standoff creates the potential for an electrical “short” in one or more circuits. The results range from "nothing" (everything works perfectly) to odd "intermittent” problems to "nothing" (as in nothing works at all ). So, you might want to verify you only inserted a standoff where there is a corresponding motherboard mounting hole.

If me, as Mathragh just suggested, I would pull everything out of the case, assemble the computer on a large wooden bread/cutting board and see if it works outside the case. Then verify your standoffs before assembling it back in the case.

 

[SL2]

Can you try some older PSU? As long as you don't go 3D you should at least be able to boot Windows even with a low power PSU. That's beside the RAM questions, tho.

The reason I bring it up is your PSU..

Gigabyte GP-P750GM 750 W Review - With an Explosive Attitude

The Gigabyte GP-P750GM makes lots of promises, but fails to deliver. Its platform features a modern design, but the parts used are of mediocre to low quality, and to make matters worse, the protection features are not working correctly.

www.techpowerup.com

 

[Sluppermand]

I don't see where you said how much RAM (or number of sticks) you installed. It looks like, according to the QVL, that board only supports 2 sticks of G.Skill 3600 RAM with those 14-25-25-35 timings.

Note that cases are designed to support 1000s of different motherboards. So, it is common for cases to have more motherboard mounting points than boards have mounting holes. And while the ATX Form Factor standard dictates where motherboard mounting holes “can” be on motherboards, it does not dictate where they “will” be. So, one board may have a mounting hole in a specific place while another may not.

A common mistake by the less experienced and distracted pros alike is to insert one or more extra standoff in the case under the motherboard. Any extra standoff creates the potential for an electrical “short” in one or more circuits. The results range from "nothing" (everything works perfectly) to odd "intermittent” problems to "nothing" (as in nothing works at all ). So, you might want to verify you only inserted a standoff where there is a corresponding motherboard mounting hole.

If me, as Mathragh just suggested, I would pull everything out of the case, assemble the computer on a large wooden bread/cutting board and see if it works outside the case. Then verify your standoffs before assembling it back in the case.

I've upgraded the info - I got 2*16gb ram modules.

I didn't place standoffs, they were mounted from scratch.

There was one mount, that were already filled, not with a screw, but with something. I tryed to demount it, but it was so tight, I couldn't. I came to the conclusion, it was there to support the motherboard.
There might have been more mounts, than I needed, didn't think about that.

 

[Bill_Bright]

I didn't place standoffs, they were mounted from scratch.

As I noted above, the ATX Form Factor standard dictates where the motherboard mounting points can be, it does not mandate where they will be. This means it is possible the case may have a mounting point and standoff where there is no corresponding motherboard mounting hole. So if me, I would still verify no extra standoff (or other foreign object is under the board).

 

[Sithaer]

(Just a sidenote, I will never again buy a Gigabyte PSU, I had to cut some plastic off of the 4+4 pin connecters, to make them fit in the graphics card - There is only space for 1 of those pieces to keep it in the socket, not the 2 that comes from each of the 4 pin connecters)

Not sure if I'm missing something about that line but the 4+4 is for the CPU connector on the mobo, cards use the 6+2 ones.

 

[AltCapwn]

(Just a sidenote, I will never again buy a Gigabyte PSU, I had to cut some plastic off of the 4+4 pin connecters, to make them fit in the graphics card - There is only space for 1 of those pieces to keep it in the socket, not the 2 that comes from each of the 4 pin connecters)

Not sure if I'm missing something about that line but the 4+4 is for the CPU connector on the mobo, cards use the 6+2 ones.

Oh oh.

Yep, 4+4 are for the CPU mate. PCI-E (GPU) are 6+2...

You shoud plug those 4+4 here :

Here's the difference :
GPU / PCI-E = 6+2

CPU = 4+4

It would explain your issues too.

 

[tabascosauz]

Yeah, not sure how you confused the 6+2 PCIe with the 4+4 EPS if you've built a lot of computers as you say you have...but I do feel your frustration and don't want to kick a man while he's down.

If you only snipped off the locking tabs off the 4+4 you should be fine to still use it. If you modified the actual pins or shapes of the plastic pins...well, hopefully the expensive GPU still works and just didn't power up from not receiving power.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
They all should be labeled what they are for.
If not lazy psu manufacture.

 

[8BitZ80]

(Just a sidenote, I will never again buy a Gigabyte PSU, I had to cut some plastic off of the 4+4 pin connecters, to make them fit in the graphics card - There is only space for 1 of those pieces to keep it in the socket, not the 2 that comes from each of the 4 pin connecters)

Mother of god....

Not sure if you're aware, but power supplies are one of the most thoroughly tested components in the manufacturing process. If there was a flaw where it couldn't be plugged in properly, they would have rejected it on the production line.

Sounds like you trimmed away some of the connector keying to make it fit into the wrong plug. In the early days of computers when they had less failsafe protection, you probably would have blown up your PC....

If it doesn't fit, always STOP and double check you've got it right first lol

Edit: It's not just a computer thing. Repairing vehicles is far less forgiving of errors and you can strip threads and snap bolts if you're not careful. Working on old cars can be horrendous when fasteners are already botched and nothing can be assembled smoothly. It's crazy how easy it is to break stuff.

Double edit: It's unlikely you've damaged anything other than the Gigabyte power supply connector, so your final build should still be good.

 

[thesmokingman]

(Just a sidenote, I will never again buy a Gigabyte PSU, I had to cut some plastic off of the 4+4 pin connecters, to make them fit in the graphics card - There is only space for 1 of those pieces to keep it in the socket, not the 2 that comes from each of the 4 pin connecters)
....

I have throughout my life, built a decent amount of computers, but NEVER before (And hopefully never again - Execept when I'm upgrading the PSU and CPU - ARGH!!) in a Be Quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 Rev. 2 - Damn that is alot of frustration added to the table!

Seconding poopipeboy...

OMFG! 4+4 pin are cpu power plugs NOT gpu. Stop what you're doing! Take some pics. It's not about the standoff, which is where its supposed to be. It's about you using the wrong power plug and not questioning your own abilities. The standards are there for a reason, if you think you know better like snipping the "key" off the plug so you can use it cuz you "think" otherwise, that's the problem. Holy carp, pray you haven't fried anything.

 

[Bones]

One way to know if it's the correct plug or not is the ones with red plugs (6+2) are for the GPU, the black ones, either the 4+4 or the black 8 pin connector are for the board/CPU power hookups.
Some PSU's have all black plug ends but they should have a label on them, one saying "PCI-E" and that would be the GPU's plug and it should also be a 6+2 type plug.
I'm hoping not but it's possible you may have killed the GPU (System itself?) with the wrong plugin in use due to a possible difference in input voltage - And I woudn't doubt there is a difference.

Only way to know is get the plugs right and try it.

 

[Sluppermand]

Well, in that case, I can now fill the MB with power, from the 2 4+4's.
Before I bought the new PSU, I was thinking I would use the one in my old computer. I did realise that I only had 1 8 pin and 1 6+2 for the old one, and I got absolutely no clue where the leftovers are from back then, it is REALLY old! So I decided to buy a new PSU, and use that instead. What a waste! It comes with just 2*4+4 and 2*8 - Not a single 6+2. So eventually, the standard equipment in this PSU, cannot handle my 6900 xt. Sad news.
But thanks for the help!

My old XFX PSU is semi modular. The 6+2 gets power from a 6 pin plug on the PSU.
Can I use that for the last spot? It will get power from the "Peripheral-IDE/SATA/MOLEX" outputs on the PSU.

"They all should be labeled what they are for"
There is absolutely no labeling what so ever.

"If you only snipped off the locking tabs off the 4+4 you should be fine to still use it."
I would never modify the pins. I have been informed that if the pins are correct, it's suitable. But it seems, 4+4 and 8 pins, is not same setup, 8 pin has an extra ground to it.
I didn't write a lot, I wrote a decent amount. I think I've assimilated 7 computers or so.

 

[thesmokingman]

Well, in that case, I can now fill the MB with power, from the 2 4+4's.
Before I bought the new PSU, I was thinking I would use the one in my old computer. I did realise that I only had 1 8 pin and 1 6+2 for the old one, and I got absolutely no clue where the leftovers are from back then, it is REALLY old! So I decided to buy a new PSU, and use that instead. What a waste! It comes with just 2*4+4 and 2*8 - Not a single 6+2. So eventually, the standard equipment in this PSU, cannot handle my 6900 xt. Sad news.
But thanks for the help!

Sorry man, but that's on you for not buying an appropriate psu for your use case.

 

[SL2]

It comes with just 2*4+4 and 2*8 - Not a single 6+2.

GA says otherwise. Just return it.

P850GM Key Features | Power Supply - GIGABYTE Global

GIGABYTE, Chassis, Thermal Solution, Power Supply, gamer, PSU

www.gigabyte.com

 

[Chomiq]

I think I've assimilated 7 computers or so.

Confirmed for borg. Next time read manuals and specification before purchase.

 

[Bones]

Well, in that case, I can now fill the MB with power, from the 2 4+4's.
Before I bought the new PSU, I was thinking I would use the one in my old computer. I did realise that I only had 1 8 pin and 1 6+2 for the old one, and I got absolutely no clue where the leftovers are from back then, it is REALLY old! So I decided to buy a new PSU, and use that instead. What a waste! It comes with just 2*4+4 and 2*8 - Not a single 6+2. So eventually, the standard equipment in this PSU, cannot handle my 6900 xt. Sad news.
But thanks for the help!

My old XFX PSU is semi modular. The 6+2 gets power from a 6 pin plug on the PSU.
Can I use that for the last spot? It will get power from the "Peripheral-IDE/SATA/MOLEX" outputs on the PSU.

"They all should be labeled what they are for"
There is absolutely no labeling what so ever.

"If you only snipped off the locking tabs off the 4+4 you should be fine to still use it."
I would never modify the pins. I have been informed that if the pins are correct, it's suitable. But it seems, 4+4 and 8 pins, is not same setup, 8 pin has an extra ground to it.
I didn't write a lot, I wrote a decent amount. I think I've assimilated 7 computers or so.

If you're asking what I'm thinking (Understanding here) then no, the powerdraw of the GPU will exceed the capability of that rail from the PSU since GPU's draw alot of power but IDE/SATA/MOLEX devices don't.
I'm using this as an example and have this very PSU in mine - Note that the PCI-E ports for PCI-E cables are red, the standard ports for IDE/SATA/MOLEX cables are black.

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BTW don't even think this one will work in your setup , it's a heavy/massive PSU and you can't just pop it into any case.

Be sure whatever you get at least has everything labeled in some way so you'd know what it's for and get it right.

 

[Sluppermand]

GA says otherwise. Just return it.

P850GM Key Features | Power Supply - GIGABYTE Global

GIGABYTE, Chassis, Thermal Solution, Power Supply, gamer, PSU

www.gigabyte.com

View attachment 189362

There is, as you might also have noticed, no 8 pins in the package, the ones I called 8 pins, is actually 6+2's.
There is 2 cables, with 2 outputs on each, so eventually, to power up the GFX, I have to daisy chain them.

 

[8BitZ80]

Well, in that case, I can now fill the MB with power, from the 2 4+4's.
Before I bought the new PSU, I was thinking I would use the one in my old computer. I did realise that I only had 1 8 pin and 1 6+2 for the old one, and I got absolutely no clue where the leftovers are from back then, it is REALLY old! So I decided to buy a new PSU, and use that instead. What a waste! It comes with just 2*4+4 and 2*8 - Not a single 6+2. So eventually, the standard equipment in this PSU, cannot handle my 6900 xt. Sad news.
But thanks for the help!

My old XFX PSU is semi modular. The 6+2 gets power from a 6 pin plug on the PSU.
Can I use that for the last spot? It will get power from the "Peripheral-IDE/SATA/MOLEX" outputs on the PSU.

"They all should be labeled what they are for"
There is absolutely no labeling what so ever.

"If you only snipped off the locking tabs off the 4+4 you should be fine to still use it."
I would never modify the pins. I have been informed that if the pins are correct, it's suitable. But it seems, 4+4 and 8 pins, is not same setup, 8 pin has an extra ground to it.
I didn't write a lot, I wrote a decent amount. I think I've assimilated 7 computers or so.

Something doesn't sound right. It's unheard of for a power supply to not have any 6+2 connectors, since 6-pin power connectors are so common.

If you make sure to be specific about which PSU you're talking about (since you've got at least three on hand) it would be less confusing on our end.

Most of the connectors will be 8-pin on one end where they plug into the power supply, but the should still be at least two 6+2 power connectors amongst all those modular cables.

EDIT: Never mind, I read your post above and it clarifies things better.

 

[SL2]

There is, as you might also have noticed, no 8 pins in the package, the ones I called 8 pins, is actually 6+2's.
There is 2 cables, with 2 outputs on each, so eventually, to power up the GFX, I have to daisy chain them.

So I guess you've got all the cables you need then. I'm pretty sure those dual outputs are supposed to be used at the same time.

But again, that PSU is crap. I still think you should RMA it while you can, not only to save money, but also to avoid damaging any components. (unless it's too late)

 

[thesmokingman]

There is, as you might also have noticed, no 8 pins in the package, the ones I called 8 pins, is actually 6+2's.
There is 2 cables, with 2 outputs on each, so eventually, to power up the GFX, I have to daisy chain them.

You really need to STOP building computers.

So I guess you've got all the cables you need then. I'm pretty sure those dual outputs are supposed to be used at the same time.

But again, that PSU is crap. I still think you should RMA it while you can, not only to save money, but also to avoid damaging any components. (unless it's too late)

It's isn't the psu at fault here.

 

[SL2]

You really need to STOP building computers.


It's isn't the psu at fault here.

I never said it was. Read the review I linked.

 

[Sluppermand]

Anyway, think we found the problem. Tomorrow I'll see if I can get hold of an extra 6+2 pin connecter for the GFX, and I will update you, when I've refitted the cables. Thanks for the help.