Is my PSU dying?

[Kapone33]

Yesterday I was playing WItcher 3 and the PC shutdown. Woke up this morning to an interesting problem. The PC refused to turn on from sleep. I do a check while it's giving me the CPU D0 error. I re-seat the 24 pin and it boots. I try it again and back to DO. I clear the CMOS using the button on the back and it boots but then freezes in Windows. I shorted the pins on the board and it reset into Windows. After about 10 minutes the PC froze and is once again showing D0 code. I have a PSU but before I pull my PC apart I want to make sure it is that. Even though the MB is giving code D0 I don't think it is that it is the CPU as it is a 58000X3D cooled with a 360 AIO with 2 pumps and if the CPU was resetting the CMOS would not have helped. The PSU is a Corsair HX1200I that I bought in 2012 or 2013. Could I also be a Windows bug as there was a huge update earlier this week that seems to hate that I do not have One Drive enabled?

 

[erocker]

It very likely could be your PSU being 10 years old... I'm in the same boat with mine.

 

[80251]

Have you tried checking the output voltages of the PSU with a DMM? The D0 error code seems to refer to a "cpu initialization error" and it seems to be associated with power to the CPU. Maybe you could try reseating the CPU power cable (the 4-pin or 8-pin power plug that's dedicated to powering the CPU VRM circuit).

 

[Kapone33]

It very likely could be your PSU being 10 years old... I'm in the same boat with mine.

I have a new PSU but I didn't want it to be my HX 1200I that has served me longer than any part in my PC. I guess I am going to have to take it apart and see what happens. I was looking at HXI PSUs this morning and it seems that they have changed manufacturers and they are about $200 more than when I got mine. I don't really like Icue anyway.

 

[The King]

You can easily check voltages on the PSU rails using HWINFO64. If you see major Voltage drop under loads then you can say the PSU maybe an issue.
If the voltages are rock solid then I would not look at the PSU being the problem.

When was the last time you changed your CMOS battery? check that as well in HWINFO64 or in the BIOS if available.

 

[Kapone33]

Have you tried checking the output voltages of the PSU with a DMM? The D0 error code seems to refer to a "cpu initialization error" and it seems to be associated with power to the CPU. Maybe you could try reseating the CPU power cable (the 4-pin or 8-pin power plug that's dedicated to powering the CPU VRM circuit).

I am going to do that when I take the PC apart. I have a tester and volt meter but I am not opening a PSU. I know what you are saying but what triggered me was the 24 pin. Re seating that and having the PC boot for me speaks to board power.

You can easily check voltages on the PSU rails using HWINFO64. If you see major Voltage drop under loads then you can say the PSU maybe an issue.
If the voltages are rock solid then I would not look at the PSU being the problem.

When was the last time you changed your CMOS battery? check that as well in HWINFO64 on in the BIOS if available.

I hear you but I have problems just getting into Windows much less loading HWinfo64. The board is a MSIX570S Ace Max, it is pretty new so the battery should be fine. Also it is a royal pita to get at the battery on this board but everything seems fine on that part all of the drives run and the pump on the GPU block starts. Thinking about it I was getting shutdowns late last week in Games like Witcher 3 and CP2077 but could play TWWH3 and Division 2 all day.

 

[delshay]

I have a new PSU but I didn't want it to be my HX 1200I that has served me longer than any part in my PC. I guess I am going to have to take it apart and see what happens. I was looking at HXI PSUs this morning and it seems that they have changed manufacturers and they are about $200 more than when I got mine. I don't really like Icue anyway.

If you have the skill, you could also change the capacitors. This is something I want to do but both my 2014 PSU are still going strong

 

[Shrek]

I agree, but the primary capacitors can hold a lethal amount of charge, so one needs to know what one is doing.

 

[Kapone33]

I agree, but the primary capacitors can hold a lethal amount of charge, so one needs to know what one is doing.

I have been around electronis since I was a kid but I have never opened a PSU. What I do know is those are some huge capacitors in those PSUs. I was going to post this in Latest purchase thread but I wanted to let everyone know that I changed the PSU and have been rock solid since (only like 5 hours). When I tested the HX 1200I the 5v and 3.3v failed. The 5v is at 4.1 and the 3.3 is at 2.1 so that is nowhere near where they should be. I picked up the Deepcool PQ1000M. There are 2 things I like about this PSU vs the 1200I. The warranty is the same 10 year but I was happy to see that the PCIe cables only have 1 connector which means no pig tails hanging out, the other thing is the size of the unit is so nice and compact that I was able to fit all of my RGB cables in the cavity at the back of the Phanteks Enthoo Pro 2.

 

[Shrek]

How did you measure the voltages? I only trust a meter.

 

[AlwaysHope]

It's not a windows bug, I have 3 systems here running win 10 & all up to date, each on different socket platforms. No lock ups here whatsoever except for a browser bug with ad blockers - but that's a different topic.
If I was the OP, I'd opt to upgrade that PSU, I mean the rest of your system is no more than a couple yrs old so why hang out on holding onto a decade old PSU if your having system problems like you describe. Even though Corsair's HX line is pretty high end, fact is the unit is getting seriously old.

 

[Kapone33]

How did you measure the voltages? I only trust a meter.

I used a PSU tester and restarted the PSU several times and let it sit for 10 minutes.

It's not a windows bug, I have 3 systems here running win 10 & all up to date, each on different socket platforms. No lock ups here whatsoever except for a browser bug with ad blockers - but that's a different topic.
If I was the OP, I'd opt to upgrade that PSU, I mean the rest of your system is no more than a couple yrs old so why hang out on holding onto a decade old PSU if your having system problems like you describe. Even though Corsair's HX line is pretty high end, fact is the unit is getting seriously old.

I am actually using Windows 11 but I do agree with you since everything is working fine now. The thing with The HX1200I is that you can connect that via USB to your board and even before Icue existed be able to see it in HWinfo64 among other monitoring software. In a strange juxtaposition MSI Gaming did a livestream on Wednesday and showed off their new 3.0 PSU. That had the innovation of a USB port to connect to the MB. I know that you may not agree with me but the PSU should be the last thing you upgrade. For me I intend to use this unit for as long as it's warranty allow.

 

[Bill_Bright]

A good PSU tester like this one is great for confirming a PSU is bad. But they cannot conclusively tell you if the PSU is good. To properly and conclusively test a power supply unit (PSU), it must be tested under a variety of realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive ripple and other anomalies that affect computer stability. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or a dedicated power supply “analyzer” - sophisticated (and expensive!) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronics repair facilities.

This is why swapping in a known good power supply, a tried-and-true troubleshooting method used by amateurs and professionals alike, is typically the best and easiest alternative.

Many will suggest using a multimeter. But like a PSU tester, a multimeter can tell you if a PSU is bad (if missing or has an out-of-tolerance voltage). But typical multimeters cannot tell you conclusively that a PSU is good. Note to task the computer to where it places a variety of loads on the PSU while, at the same time, measuring all the required voltages with a simple multimeter is a real challenge, even for pros. And typical multimeters cannot test for ripple on the DC voltages either.

HWinfo64 and similar programs are not conclusive either as they rely on very inexpensive, low tech sensors.

So we are back to swapping in a known good spare. If you get the same problems with the spare PSU, your original PSU is probably good. If the spare PSU clears your problems, your original PSU was probably bad.

Just FYI, the ATX Form Factor standard allows for ±5% variance in the output voltage of ATX power supplies.

Acceptable tolerance extremes are:

12VDC ±5% = 11.4 to 12.6VDC
5VDC ±5% = 4.75 to 5.25VDC
3.3VDC ±5% = 3.14 to 3.47VDC
​

 

[80251]

I had a lot of problems with my rig because I live in a humid environment -- particularly with SATA power connectors. My HDD's and SSD's would disappear from device mangler for no apparent reason. I had thought it was all down to my old Rosewill Capstone 750 Watt 80 Plus Gold (a 9 or 10 year old PSU). Someone here suggested using silicone grease with PTFE on all the SATA power and data connectors and the problem was completely resolved. When I used a second PSU or SATA-to-molex-adapters to power the SSD's and HDD that also worked. So what looked like an old PSU problem didn't turn out to be the case at all.

 

[Shrek]

I have a load tester, which takes things a bit beyond just voltages; a failed capacitor might have no problem smoothing at low load but trouble at higher loads.

 

[Hofnaerrchen]

A good sign of dying electronic components is smell. Apart from using technical solutions and hardware you should also rely on your own hardware (nose).

 

[İsmailTPC_Hastanesi]

The temperature was high inside the case when you put it into sleep mode.
As time passed it started to cool down and all the Sockets and connectors got loose or there was a contact problem with the 24pin ATX socket and the CPU 12v socket.
This is a common problem in systems that are used for a long time.
Cable structures ossify over time and begin to harden.
Cable socket female pins expand and do not or little contact with the male socket it is plugged into.
In such a case, Powerful motherboards cannot get the desired Ampere value from the PSU because they draw too much current.
There seems to be no apparent problem.
I have seen this problem mostly in HP cases.
I will suggest another one;
Check the purple wire of the 24pin ATX socket.
It should give a constant voltage of 5v.
If there are fluctuations or drops, your PSU has expired or needs to be repaired.
This problem is caused by the Integrated in the area called the Duty room on the 220v Floor of the PSU circuit board.
These ICs have a short lifetime.
Because they work under very high voltage.
My suggestion. These jobs are very dangerous.
Never open and touch the PSU cover.
Even if it's not plugged in..
These are my suggestions.

 

[RJARRRPCGP]

It very likely could be your PSU being 10 years old... I'm in the same boat with mine.

Still disappointed that it would fail at 10, as I had a 2008 FSP 500W with non-polymer caps that were considered mediocre and it at least almost made it to 10 years.
I don't know if the caps are still fine or not in that PSU, because I gave the PSU away in 2016. It was like new in 2016.

Wouldn't be surprised if one or more caps in the 2008 FSP 500W failed now, because it wouldn't be getting treated as well as it did under my ownership.

If they're the caps that I expect in a gold-rated PSU, then that's a real big disappointment there!

OTOH, you would be lucky to get 7 years out of a bronze PSU with the caps that came with them! Same with a "white", which was the later-'00s predecessor of bronze, likely.