Looking for a good AM4 cooler with size restrictions

[sneekypeet]

??? That would depend on the direction you lay down the lines, the placement of those lines, and how much TIM is applied. I don't see where it makes a difference as long a full coverage is achieved, no insulating air is trapped between mating surfaces, and excess TIM is kept to a minimum. And to me, that is the same criteria regardless the method used.

Don't be so silly, use your "Bing Google" and search it, the lines are always shown the same way. Full coverage on poor HDT coolers is not achievable due to the large gaps. If you are fine with a dime-sized spot of your IHS covered versus all of it, do as you want. All I can say is many tests have been done in the past, and there is even an old thread here at TPU on the topic...https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...e-to-a-direct-contact-heatpipe-cooler.225047/

Unless as erocker mentioned there, you need to tint HDT cooler to use any of the blob methods.

Looking at the bases below for reference....

All of the area between the pipes will allow the past to fill the voids before it makes it across the IHS. Some manufacturers will leave TIM in these gaps from the factory to help combat the poor base quality.

Your valid point is "if full coverage is achieved", and I will reply with you need to do multiple tests to see if that is happening, where using the line method is a near guarantee of coverage in one try.

 

[eidairaman1]

??? That would depend on the direction you lay down the lines, the placement of those lines, and how much TIM is applied. I don't see where it makes a difference as long a full coverage is achieved, no insulating air is trapped between mating surfaces, and excess TIM is kept to a minimum. And to me, that is the same criteria regardless the method used.
10 -15 years ago, it would have been frowned upon to use the OEM TIM. But cooler and CPU makers heard the complaints. So not only are today's OEM coolers much more efficient (and quieter) but the OEM TIM is much more efficient these days too.

These days, I use the OEM TIM and only use after market TIM if I have to pull the cooler for some reason (never reuse old TIM).
That's the thing. If you "need" that extra 3 - 5°C to keep from reaching or crossing the thermo-protection thresholds, you have other pressing matters in need of your attention first - like case cooling or the CPU fan itself.
Yeah, I have watched that before. Looks like they are using 10 times too much to me. TIM should NOT be a layer sitting between the mating surfaces. The best (and fastest) transfer of heat occurs with direct metal to metal contact. All the TIM needs to do is fill the tiny gaps and microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces so insulating air cannot get in. Any excess is in the way regardless how efficient the TIM is. Not to mention, if you apply too much, you risk it getting squished out and onto some place it does not belong.

Doesnt look like its too much to me

Don't be so silly, use your "Bing Google" and search it, the lines are always shown the same way. Full coverage on poor HDT coolers is not achievable due to the large gaps. If you are fine with a dime-sized spot of your IHS covered versus all of it, do as you want. All I can say is many tests have been done in the past, and there is even an old thread here at TPU on the topic...https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...e-to-a-direct-contact-heatpipe-cooler.225047/

Unless as erocker mentioned there, you need to tint HDT cooler to use any of the blob methods.

Looking at the bases below for reference....

All of the area between the pipes will allow the past to fill the voids before it makes it across the IHS. Some manufacturers will leave TIM in these gaps from the factory to help combat the poor base quality.

Your valid point is "if full coverage is achieved", and I will reply with you need to do multiple tests to see if that is happening, where using the line method is a near guarantee of coverage in one try.

Yup put it on the pipes that make contact, no problem, the plate is just there to hold pipes from moving around.

I prefer base plate hsf's for easy contact. My specs say what I got.

 

[Bill_Bright]

If you are fine with a dime-sized spot of your IHS covered versus all of it, do as you want.

Now who's being silly. I NEVER EVER said anything like that! I specifically said several times, "full" coverage.

Your valid point is "if full coverage is achieved", and I will reply with you need to do multiple tests to see if that is happening, where using the line method is a near guarantee of coverage in one try.

As I also said, I do the spreading. That way, I can ensure (without doing any tests!), that full coverage is achieved. I don't like to depend on the force of the clamping mechanism to distribute the TIM evenly and completely. IMO, you cannot trust it to ensure "full" coverage and still ensure you apply no more than needed.

 

[eidairaman1]

Bill, I use the spread on baseplate hsf, and line on the direct pipes that contact the ihs.

 

[Shambles1980]

with the exposed heat pipe style i add quite a bit of thermal paste to the heatsink then scrape it off leaving thermalpaste in the groves, then i apply thermal paste in an x on the cpu as normal..

 

[sneekypeet]

I do the spreading

Right, you may, but the rest of the world may not! My point and the whole reason for it being brought up was that using lines is the simplest, quickest, easiest for the masses of users to get the job done without much of a chance of failure. Also, even when spreading it yourself, as a new guy applying a cooler, is no guarantee of not using too much or using too little. Keep in mind, this thread is for a guy who is replacing a stock cooler, and we have no idea of his skill set. While it may be your method, it does not have to be everyone's.

 

[eidairaman1]

Right, you may, but the rest of the world may not! My point and the whole reason for it being brought up was that using lines is the simplest, quickest, easiest for the masses of users to get the job done without much of a chance of failure. Also, even when spreading it yourself, as a new guy applying a cooler, is no guarantee of not using too much or using too little. Keep in mind, this thread is for a guy who is replacing a stock cooler, and we have no idea of his skill set. While it may be your method, it does not have to be everyone's.

Yup that video will help him with application.

 

[Darmok N Jalad]

I didn’t figure to spring this thread back to life with so many comments.

I guess it’s good to know the stock TIM is better than it used to be. I’m not worried about a few degrees. This cooler is still much better than stock. Surprisingly good quality for less than $20. The fan even has rubber pads on its base to reduce vibration. No problems so far even with 4.0ghz all-core OC on my 2400G.

 

[Bill_Bright]

Bill, I use the spread on baseplate hsf, and line on the direct pipes that contact the ihs.

And as long as you get full coverage between the mating surfaces without there being so much excess that it squishes out onto the socket or board, I say that's perfect.

While it may be your method, it does not have to be everyone's.

And where did I EVER say my way is the only way everyone should use? Did I criticize anyone for using a different method?

All I said was there must be full coverage without using too much - and you agreed with that! Please note, just like I NEVER said anything about dime size spots, I NEVER said this way was right or that way was wrong. There is more than one way to skin a cat.

Also, even when spreading it yourself, as a new guy applying a cooler, is no guarantee of not using too much or using too little.

Gee whiz! And there is a guarantee of that with lines?

But of course there is with the spreading method - IF you got eyes and you use them! One can easily see if there are still spots of bare metal. And one can easily see if there are giant gobs of extra TIM. And for the record, that applies to the new guy with eyes who's applying lines on a direct touch pipe cooler too!

Guess what Bing Google also told me? Clearly, Scyth needs to be contacted and told they are being "silly" and don't know what they are talking about - Scythe Fuma B mounting instructions.

And obviously, the idiots at CoolerMaster are silly too and need to be told they are telling their customers they are doing it all wrong. MasterAir Pro 3 mounting instructions.

And Thermaltake too where the instructions say to "apply a thin layer to the CPU" (7-Zip opens rar files).

Gee, if only I had thought to fire up those computers after assembly to test them out to see if they worked and the temps were good before handing them off to my clients.

@Darmok N Jalad - sorry for this circus and my part in it.

No problems so far even with 4.0ghz all-core OC on my 2400G.

That's great! And note depending on the formulation of the TIM used, it is not uncommon for the TIM's efficiency to increase a little after several user sessions (heat up and cool down cycles) giving you a few more degrees better cooling once the TIM has fully cured.

I recommend real-time monitoring of your temps too. I use Core Temp for that, with it set to display the "Highest temperature" in the Notification Area. When I notice my temps rise and start to sit constantly higher than normal, that is typically my sign to clean my air filters.

Good day and I hope everyone enjoys their weekend.

Go Saints! Oh wait! Never mind.

 

[sneekypeet]

Way to be passive aggressive bill. I knew it would eventually get past the facts. Enjoy being you bro. I will stick to my guns as a guy who is deep in this market with all facts under my hat. Remember, you were the one in here making assumptions on the market and is why I felt the need to step in and correct your poor assumptions in the first place. Your links are worthless, as even in the thread we can see it is easy to find various methods with various instructions. Check your ego and your condescension. I will give it to you that you have a lot if knowledge under your hat, but coolers are not something you should go to battle on, at least not against me...lol

 

[Bill_Bright]

as even in the thread we can see it is easy to find various methods with various instructions.

Exactly! Yet only you get offensive with personal affronts when someone suggests a method that is different than yours!

My links to 3 different major cooler makers (Scythe, CoolerMaster and Thermaltake) are worthless? Wow. Demonstrating again that, in your opinion, only your way is correct. Talk about condescension and egos.

But clearly you are the self-proclaimed master of coolers and of course, as a Super Mod, carry the bigger stick. So I yield to your superiority and submit to self exile from this thread.

 

[sneekypeet]

I know you love to get the last word, but you cannot post like that and not expect a reply.

I never got offensive or was offended. Just expressing years of knowledge on a topic I know and study. Apply however you want. I am telling people what works better, and has and will again be proven by testing.

I know for a fact the instructions are generic, having seen this and dealing with companies to make edits, to get replied to that they used steps from other coolers to simplify the job if those making them. I see them as guidelines, not imperical proof to what works best.

Not proclaiming anything, it is to help members understand. I have the proof in images, in thermal results, and have spoken about this for around 4 or 5 years, since HDT coolers were mainstream. HDT coolers are finicky beasts, and is the reason why cooler manufacturers have moved away from this process.

Has nothing to do with the size if any stick, but way to play the martyr.

If you would like to continue this tit for tat, take it to PMs as we are drifting from facts and the topic.

 

[Shambles1980]

but the popcorn is ready now