Hello, after nearly year of trying to understand ThrottleStop, sense how whole undervolt process and else features work I think, I can share my experience. Maybe someone will find this info useful. In advance, Im only lil Polish boy, im bad at english, also im too lazy to correct myself with google translate, my apologizes.
Seems like I will make tl;dr version of my text for non-acer users or these that care only about undervolt thing, undervolting info and that most people gonna be curious here I guess, about at bottom!
Before I would like to say what I use:
-GPU: GTX 1660Ti
-Cheap pad with 3x80mm fans with +- 1000 rpm (as description of product says), 2 around heatpipes - more or less under them (atleast I think it hit heatpipe from CPU side better than GPU side heatpipe), second at bottom center so I guess this one gives 0 impact.
tl;dr You will find out later that pad will give around 1c real difference - worth.
-Around 3 months ago I have replaced Thermal Paste with kryonaut, In advance for other Helios users - I've left pink paste as it is on vram chips, all working perfectly. My advice about changing paste - I repasted the laptop few times in very short time and from my experience its best to sense how paste spread and use as lowest amount as possible to cover chip (tl'dr You want as thin layer as possible covering whole chip - no reflect of the chip, only the paste should be visible), make sure it doesn't reflect chip/you dont see chip - its better to play with paste trying to spread it perfectly to cover the chip than add more paste. First time (after watching few guides that I followed) I didnt care about that, I've put too much paste instead of trying to spend more time and spread it, that caused GPU to basically go 75c+ in 2 minutes on RDR2, apparently Ive repasted CPU well back then. After I've tried to use as low ammount of paste as possible for both chips - spent quite half or almost hour for this - till now im very happy with temperatures.
tl;dr Whole text above worth to read if You new to repaste.
-My fan speeds on GPU/CPU is set on 3540RPM permamently for gaming, automatically fan curve option for GPU will always go 3540 pretty soon in opposite to CPU which will stay 3000 in auto mode, so im using Custom to boost CPU also to 3540, if GPU reach 74c it goes 3960rpm for gpu - too loud for me, but I keep whole time under 70c on my GPU. Quite quiet and I dont disturb other people around. My goal is to keep laptop as quiet as possible.
-My system? First, I got factory CD recovery for my laptop, so what I did is reflect the fresh image with Macrium - and if You like to tweak Yourself and try things without being afraid of anything, do same as me, You will feel like playing Windows-The-Game and system images gonna feel like saves. So, I got Win 1809, from drivers in Windows Update Ive updated only these related to wifi drivers, becouse in my case I had wifi disconnects for min or two when I was downloading something like game on steam on high speed, for rest drivers (all the drivers from Acer website match my recovery os, so You don't have to update anything at all if it works, maybe just Nvidia drivers if You play new games that require new driver, I dont know which way of updating nvidia drivers is better, if You go DDU>Fresh Install I had visual bug in Nvidia Control Panel and window with settings (anisotropic filtering, ultra low mode etc) was kinda cut and that wasnt causing much trouble, but still it was, couldnt solve it. So when Cyberpunk will be out ill probably just use GExperience to update becouse that way control panel UI works as it should. I've stopped XTU service, and few more related to bloatware and Acer Care Center (i recommend use safe mode, becouse XTU can turn off laptop if u try to off and shut down it like in my case). Then Ive basically turned off all task scheduler tasks beside Predator Sense (nvidia, acer bloatware, auto update for acer bloatware etc). What im using to hide updates? WUshowhide from Microsoft page, just after connecting to internet prepare this program and launch it, then You can basically hide all updates as drivers or upgrade to 1909 etc. In my case I've only let Security-related updates to download, else hide, thats why I can stay 1809, no idea what will happen after november when 1809 will lost support. (yes im using Win 10 home)
tl;dr In my honest opinion I think it might be best to reflect image of your factory new OS then a) no windows update till dont need, no driver updates till You REALLY need, turn off(or delete I pref off if possible then delete) everything that doesnt seem to be needed in Task Scheduler, Startup, Services, especially things that can update your OEM software, but same as drivers - till You will think it will help solve something.
-Im using MSI AB, undervolted GPU to 1590/725mv (in my opinion maybe in TW3 I had visible improvment with 1770/~791-800mv and +320memory mhz in case of performance (why not more? want to keep <74c GPU to not activate higher gpu RPM fan, You can do as You like and I recommend value 1920/~875mv +320mhz memory if You want the best temp/performance ratio - just remember Your Power Limit is 80w and with this setting You will hit 80w on all ultra TW3 in Toussaint gardens pretty easy, results in clock go down to around 1830 lowest in my experience? If You dont care about temperatures/fan noise You can just use Turbo Button or try yourself to "simulate" it instead without having max RPM fans with adding 320mhz memory clock add 160mhz clock to lets say 1920 and then find lowest voltage value till it will crash the game, CPU in Turbo Mode changes PL1 from 45w to 56w and You can do it like me with ThrottleStop, tho Helios is very limited by Acer, so we can't get higher PL1 limit). If You using Helios and suffer from curve reset then 1) If its newer version of PS (it have feature to connect phone with PS software) then You have to go to Task Scheduler, find PS with UI at end, and change delayed launch from 3 minutes to 40s (if PS doesnt turn on when using hotkey then add another 10s to delay) then tick "start minimized" in MSI AB and untick "auto startup" then add MSI AB just like You would add ThrottleStop to task scheduler and add startup delay 2 times longer than PS UI task, so if 40 = 80s, should be fine. Why that long? From my research Ive found out that if PS UI task have too low delay it wont work. MSI AB also have to start around 40s after PS UI task to be sure curve wont be replaced. b) If You, as me, have older PS software then just set MSI AB to 30s and all be fine, new PS version make us wait longer if we want to be sure all gonna be fine.
tl;dr Read if You have acer and want some info, if not - watch GPU Undervolting by Bob of all Trades if You need help with it.
Okay, time for the ThrottleStop part.
Ill share my ThrottleStop settings optimized for my Helios also with some of my benchmarks, its not professional tests, but enough to find out something. There will be 3 screenshots from today testing, methodology? First I've waited in idle (only cinebench turned on) for CPU to cool off (around 36-39c). First I tested -210 core, and for all same -127 cache. I dont touch cache more, causing bsods sooner or later. Then I turn Cinebench test, and repeat. One screen is -210 core no pad, next is -250 core no pad, and -250 with pad. Everyone can alone compare screenshots, so I wont cringe You more with my poor english skills. Basically what I will use is -250mv core, -127cache and pad from now, seems like after all gonna be best for me. So seems like I lost some screenshots, but I still have ss with averages for core speed and volts, the methodology for it was - as for everything, pad on, 3540rpm on fans, aida64 turned on at 250mv for 15 minutes then every 3-5 minutes I was decreasing core undervolt value by then to compare how much this really affect core speed/volt, was using HWINFO for that. Funny thing is -250mv seems the best, and it almost doesnt change till 210mv. Same test I've made for 210-206mv comparing changes every 1mv. Maybe someone will find out this more or less useful. Basically from my pov seems like -250mv will have best result tho I dont think its really -250mv becouse the difference between 250 and 210 is almost nothing.
Okay lets back to the today comparisons of -250, -250 pad, -210. So what was interesting, -210 and -250 no pad both scored 2998 points and -250mv pad scored 3028, also sorry I didnt capture all cores, just the first we can see on TS, but we clearly can see pad give 1c less on 2 cores, beside that and points no difference than no pad. In case of -210 and -250 a little bit less max w drain and also small temp difference for -250.
My other TS settings:
In options, prochot offset to 0 and locked tick, this made my helios show throttle in HWINFO at 91c instead of 86 like previously, no idea if it matters.
Ticked off BD PROCHOT.
Let Windows use speedshift so Speedshift is unticked, basically I use "highest performance" from (acer) balanced power plan, instead set the value in ThrottleStop to 0. Seems like "better performance" set speedshift to 84 (u can check in corner at FIVR menu).
In FIVR, beside undervolt (250 core, 127 cache) I tick "Disable and lock turbo power limits", with that I can set PL1 to 56w in my helios, so it act like it would be in turbomode, just without fans at max speed.
In TPL, obviously changing 45 to 56w in PL1. Also for helios - turned off XTU service to be sure they doesnt do anything to each other, and thats all.
So basically, I have really quiet helios 300 2019, only 3540 RPM on fans and some noise from 3x80mm 1k +/- RPM fans in cooling pad, can score up to 3028 in CB. Usually I had 10-15% less score. I was testing 1809, 1909, 2004 and each new version when everything else the same had lower and lower score. Never break 3k nor was that close in past, had around 2800 points most of time. I can play everything just fine without throttling. My GPU curve at 1590/725mv, not touching that at all, one game that I really made use of ~100mhz more on clock was when i wanted to keep 60fps always on rdr2 "xbox settings".
So I think thats all I wanted to share, maybe someone will find something helpful here. Im open to everything so if You want to tell me that im doing something wrong etc, feel free. (beside that I suck at english)
ps. I thought to test -210 + Pad, if it will have 3k+ points ill let You know, if it will be same as no pad -210/255 then wont bother.
edit. same test methodology, added screenshot of -210core+pad, kinda close to -250mv+pad in temperatures but lower points.
edit2. again tested -250+pad, this time 3008 points and funny thing but seems like worse temperatures in comparison to previous test(-210) but few more points. Im really curious how it all works, shouldnt be anything working in background (i make sure
). Added pic -250+pad v2, i really curious now if I should use -210 or -250 again, ah shit here we go again. (i mean testing that XD)
edit3. tried 3 time -250+pad, now 3012, I believe the differences are in rest of cores that I dont see becouse im too lazy to turn on HWINFO, also I believe -250 might be the best tho the dif between it and -210 is really minor, but more points = more points, ye? added 3rd 250+pad try.
Seems like I will make tl;dr version of my text for non-acer users or these that care only about undervolt thing, undervolting info and that most people gonna be curious here I guess, about at bottom!
Before I would like to say what I use:
-GPU: GTX 1660Ti
-Cheap pad with 3x80mm fans with +- 1000 rpm (as description of product says), 2 around heatpipes - more or less under them (atleast I think it hit heatpipe from CPU side better than GPU side heatpipe), second at bottom center so I guess this one gives 0 impact.
tl;dr You will find out later that pad will give around 1c real difference - worth.
-Around 3 months ago I have replaced Thermal Paste with kryonaut, In advance for other Helios users - I've left pink paste as it is on vram chips, all working perfectly. My advice about changing paste - I repasted the laptop few times in very short time and from my experience its best to sense how paste spread and use as lowest amount as possible to cover chip (tl'dr You want as thin layer as possible covering whole chip - no reflect of the chip, only the paste should be visible), make sure it doesn't reflect chip/you dont see chip - its better to play with paste trying to spread it perfectly to cover the chip than add more paste. First time (after watching few guides that I followed) I didnt care about that, I've put too much paste instead of trying to spend more time and spread it, that caused GPU to basically go 75c+ in 2 minutes on RDR2, apparently Ive repasted CPU well back then. After I've tried to use as low ammount of paste as possible for both chips - spent quite half or almost hour for this - till now im very happy with temperatures.
tl;dr Whole text above worth to read if You new to repaste.
-My fan speeds on GPU/CPU is set on 3540RPM permamently for gaming, automatically fan curve option for GPU will always go 3540 pretty soon in opposite to CPU which will stay 3000 in auto mode, so im using Custom to boost CPU also to 3540, if GPU reach 74c it goes 3960rpm for gpu - too loud for me, but I keep whole time under 70c on my GPU. Quite quiet and I dont disturb other people around. My goal is to keep laptop as quiet as possible.
-My system? First, I got factory CD recovery for my laptop, so what I did is reflect the fresh image with Macrium - and if You like to tweak Yourself and try things without being afraid of anything, do same as me, You will feel like playing Windows-The-Game and system images gonna feel like saves. So, I got Win 1809, from drivers in Windows Update Ive updated only these related to wifi drivers, becouse in my case I had wifi disconnects for min or two when I was downloading something like game on steam on high speed, for rest drivers (all the drivers from Acer website match my recovery os, so You don't have to update anything at all if it works, maybe just Nvidia drivers if You play new games that require new driver, I dont know which way of updating nvidia drivers is better, if You go DDU>Fresh Install I had visual bug in Nvidia Control Panel and window with settings (anisotropic filtering, ultra low mode etc) was kinda cut and that wasnt causing much trouble, but still it was, couldnt solve it. So when Cyberpunk will be out ill probably just use GExperience to update becouse that way control panel UI works as it should. I've stopped XTU service, and few more related to bloatware and Acer Care Center (i recommend use safe mode, becouse XTU can turn off laptop if u try to off and shut down it like in my case). Then Ive basically turned off all task scheduler tasks beside Predator Sense (nvidia, acer bloatware, auto update for acer bloatware etc). What im using to hide updates? WUshowhide from Microsoft page, just after connecting to internet prepare this program and launch it, then You can basically hide all updates as drivers or upgrade to 1909 etc. In my case I've only let Security-related updates to download, else hide, thats why I can stay 1809, no idea what will happen after november when 1809 will lost support. (yes im using Win 10 home)
tl;dr In my honest opinion I think it might be best to reflect image of your factory new OS then a) no windows update till dont need, no driver updates till You REALLY need, turn off(or delete I pref off if possible then delete) everything that doesnt seem to be needed in Task Scheduler, Startup, Services, especially things that can update your OEM software, but same as drivers - till You will think it will help solve something.
-Im using MSI AB, undervolted GPU to 1590/725mv (in my opinion maybe in TW3 I had visible improvment with 1770/~791-800mv and +320memory mhz in case of performance (why not more? want to keep <74c GPU to not activate higher gpu RPM fan, You can do as You like and I recommend value 1920/~875mv +320mhz memory if You want the best temp/performance ratio - just remember Your Power Limit is 80w and with this setting You will hit 80w on all ultra TW3 in Toussaint gardens pretty easy, results in clock go down to around 1830 lowest in my experience? If You dont care about temperatures/fan noise You can just use Turbo Button or try yourself to "simulate" it instead without having max RPM fans with adding 320mhz memory clock add 160mhz clock to lets say 1920 and then find lowest voltage value till it will crash the game, CPU in Turbo Mode changes PL1 from 45w to 56w and You can do it like me with ThrottleStop, tho Helios is very limited by Acer, so we can't get higher PL1 limit). If You using Helios and suffer from curve reset then 1) If its newer version of PS (it have feature to connect phone with PS software) then You have to go to Task Scheduler, find PS with UI at end, and change delayed launch from 3 minutes to 40s (if PS doesnt turn on when using hotkey then add another 10s to delay) then tick "start minimized" in MSI AB and untick "auto startup" then add MSI AB just like You would add ThrottleStop to task scheduler and add startup delay 2 times longer than PS UI task, so if 40 = 80s, should be fine. Why that long? From my research Ive found out that if PS UI task have too low delay it wont work. MSI AB also have to start around 40s after PS UI task to be sure curve wont be replaced. b) If You, as me, have older PS software then just set MSI AB to 30s and all be fine, new PS version make us wait longer if we want to be sure all gonna be fine.
tl;dr Read if You have acer and want some info, if not - watch GPU Undervolting by Bob of all Trades if You need help with it.
Okay, time for the ThrottleStop part.
Ill share my ThrottleStop settings optimized for my Helios also with some of my benchmarks, its not professional tests, but enough to find out something. There will be 3 screenshots from today testing, methodology? First I've waited in idle (only cinebench turned on) for CPU to cool off (around 36-39c). First I tested -210 core, and for all same -127 cache. I dont touch cache more, causing bsods sooner or later. Then I turn Cinebench test, and repeat. One screen is -210 core no pad, next is -250 core no pad, and -250 with pad. Everyone can alone compare screenshots, so I wont cringe You more with my poor english skills. Basically what I will use is -250mv core, -127cache and pad from now, seems like after all gonna be best for me. So seems like I lost some screenshots, but I still have ss with averages for core speed and volts, the methodology for it was - as for everything, pad on, 3540rpm on fans, aida64 turned on at 250mv for 15 minutes then every 3-5 minutes I was decreasing core undervolt value by then to compare how much this really affect core speed/volt, was using HWINFO for that. Funny thing is -250mv seems the best, and it almost doesnt change till 210mv. Same test I've made for 210-206mv comparing changes every 1mv. Maybe someone will find out this more or less useful. Basically from my pov seems like -250mv will have best result tho I dont think its really -250mv becouse the difference between 250 and 210 is almost nothing.
Okay lets back to the today comparisons of -250, -250 pad, -210. So what was interesting, -210 and -250 no pad both scored 2998 points and -250mv pad scored 3028, also sorry I didnt capture all cores, just the first we can see on TS, but we clearly can see pad give 1c less on 2 cores, beside that and points no difference than no pad. In case of -210 and -250 a little bit less max w drain and also small temp difference for -250.
My other TS settings:
In options, prochot offset to 0 and locked tick, this made my helios show throttle in HWINFO at 91c instead of 86 like previously, no idea if it matters.
Ticked off BD PROCHOT.
Let Windows use speedshift so Speedshift is unticked, basically I use "highest performance" from (acer) balanced power plan, instead set the value in ThrottleStop to 0. Seems like "better performance" set speedshift to 84 (u can check in corner at FIVR menu).
In FIVR, beside undervolt (250 core, 127 cache) I tick "Disable and lock turbo power limits", with that I can set PL1 to 56w in my helios, so it act like it would be in turbomode, just without fans at max speed.
In TPL, obviously changing 45 to 56w in PL1. Also for helios - turned off XTU service to be sure they doesnt do anything to each other, and thats all.
So basically, I have really quiet helios 300 2019, only 3540 RPM on fans and some noise from 3x80mm 1k +/- RPM fans in cooling pad, can score up to 3028 in CB. Usually I had 10-15% less score. I was testing 1809, 1909, 2004 and each new version when everything else the same had lower and lower score. Never break 3k nor was that close in past, had around 2800 points most of time. I can play everything just fine without throttling. My GPU curve at 1590/725mv, not touching that at all, one game that I really made use of ~100mhz more on clock was when i wanted to keep 60fps always on rdr2 "xbox settings".
So I think thats all I wanted to share, maybe someone will find something helpful here. Im open to everything so if You want to tell me that im doing something wrong etc, feel free. (beside that I suck at english)
ps. I thought to test -210 + Pad, if it will have 3k+ points ill let You know, if it will be same as no pad -210/255 then wont bother.
edit. same test methodology, added screenshot of -210core+pad, kinda close to -250mv+pad in temperatures but lower points.
edit2. again tested -250+pad, this time 3008 points and funny thing but seems like worse temperatures in comparison to previous test(-210) but few more points. Im really curious how it all works, shouldnt be anything working in background (i make sure
). Added pic -250+pad v2, i really curious now if I should use -210 or -250 again, ah shit here we go again. (i mean testing that XD)edit3. tried 3 time -250+pad, now 3012, I believe the differences are in rest of cores that I dont see becouse im too lazy to turn on HWINFO, also I believe -250 might be the best tho the dif between it and -210 is really minor, but more points = more points, ye? added 3rd 250+pad try.
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