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New Computer's Compatibility/Stability check.

Joined
Dec 26, 2015
Messages
59 (0.02/day)
Location
Greece
Processor Intel Core i5 6600 @ 3.30 GHz
Motherboard Gigabyte H170-HD3
Cooling Intel's stock
Memory 8GB DDR4 Kingston HyperX [2x4GB kit]
Video Card(s) NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960
Storage Kingston SSDNow V300 120GB || Seagate 250GB HDD || Seagate Barracuda 1TB HDD
Case Be Quiet Silent Base 600 | Window Silver
Power Supply Be Quiet Straight Power 10 500W CM
Mouse Razer Sensei
Keyboard Razer Blackwidow
So in some days i'm gonna buy a new pc that i will be using it mainly for gaming & programming.

I can go only up to 800$

This is the pc that i've came up with
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/jcwhCJ

QUESTIONS:
1) Do i need a better Power Supply (Is the 500W enough)?
2{ CHAIN QUESTIONS:
a) Does the i5 4460 box contain a CPU Cooler ? If yes is it loud and is it enough for gaming so it wont overheat ?
b) Do i need the CPU Cooler that i put in the pc part picker ?
}

3) Will these computer parts fit in the Case that i picked ?

If you see anything weird like a bad quality part or something like that then please tell me with what i should replace it
 
A couple of things.

1. If you look under the Specifications of your CPU, it clearly says "Yes" under "Includes CPU Cooler". And understand that OEM coolers are not near as loud as OEM coolers were years ago. And in a good case, it is more likely you will hear your GPU fan over the CPU and they connect through the card directly to the back of the case. Also, contrary to what some may tell you, OEM coolers are more than capable of keeping the CPUs they come with adequately cooled, even with mild to moderate overclocking. They have to because they are the ONLY coolers that cover the warranty on the CPU too! And note the OEM cooler is warrantied for 3 years while that 212 is just for 2 years. Remember, it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate supply of cool air flowing through the case. So no, you do not need the after market cooler and if me, I would stick with the OEM fan - at least for now until you see how you like it. You can always swap it out later.

Monitor your temps with a decent hardware health monitor like CoreTemp. If your CPU temps sit above 60°C for more than a few seconds at a time, look at adding a new case fan for better front-to-back flow of cool air. If temps are still too high, then swap in 3rd party cooler.

2. I don't see any RAM listed. So you can use some of the money you save from the Cooler for RAM.

3. I also don't see an OS listed. Note that Windows 10 is only free as an "upgrade" on an existing computer. You must buy a new license when used on a new computer (and a new motherboard constitutes a new computer).

4. While more expensive, SSDs provide significantly better performance. I recommend a 250-256GB SSD for your OS and all our applications. If you really need 1TB of space for mass storage, use it as a secondary drive for your data files.

5. Yes, your components will fit in that case.

6. If you look at the specs for your graphics card, it recommends a 500W supply. So while 500W is enough, it leaves little to no room for any future expansion and upgrades. Plus, because it will be pushed to near capacity more often than a larger PSU, it will be generating more heat that will cause the PSU fan spin up to full speed and loudness more often. Since PSU fans port their noise right out the back, cases are not able to suppress that noise. So I recommend a 600 - 650W supply.

7. The CX line from Corsair, second from the bottom, does not have the reputation for quality or reliability as the higher end Corsair lines. If you want to go with Corsair, I would stick with the RM, HX, or AX series. And I recommend 80-PLUS Gold certification for better regulation and efficiency. I've been using EVGA Golds in my recent builds and really like them. I also like XFX and Seasonic. I would recommend selecting from one of these. Attempting to trim the budget with a budget PSU is a mistake. You don't buy a brand new Porsche then fill it up at the corner Tobacco and Bait shop.

Yes, all that I have proposed will bust your budget - but considering this computer should easily last you 3 to 5 years, spreading that increase in cost over that period of times makes it just pennies a day - some of that you will make up with a more efficient power supply!
 
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A couple of things.

1. If you look under the Specifications of your CPU, it clearly says "Yes" under "Includes CPU Cooler". And understand that OEM coolers are not near as loud as OEM coolers were years ago. And in a good case, it is more likely you will hear your GPU fan over the CPU and they connect through the card directly to the back of the case. Also, contrary to what some may tell you, OEM coolers are more than capable of keeping the CPUs they come with adequately cooled, even with mild to moderate overclocking. They have to because they are the ONLY coolers that cover the warranty on the CPU too! And note the OEM cooler is warrantied for 3 years while that 212 is just for 2 years. Remember, it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate supply of cool air flowing through the case. So no, you do not need the after market cooler and if me, I would stick with the OEM fan - at least for now until you see how you like it. You can always swap it out later.

Monitor your temps with a decent hardware health monitor like CoreTemp. If your CPU temps sit above 60°C for more than a few seconds at a time, look at adding a new case fan for better front-to-back flow of cool air. If temps are still too high, then swap in 3rd party cooler.

2. I don't see any RAM listed. So you can use some of the money you save from the Cooler for RAM.

3. I also don't see an OS listed. Note that Windows 10 is only free as an "upgrade" on an existing computer. You must buy a new license when used on a new computer (and a new motherboard constitutes a new computer).

4. While more expensive, SSDs provide significantly better performance. I recommend a 250-256GB SSD for your OS and all our applications. If you really need 1TB of space for mass storage, use it as a secondary drive for your data files.

5. Yes, your components will fit in that case.

6. If you look at the specs for your graphics card, it recommends a 500W supply. So while 500W is enough, it leaves little to no room for any future expansion and upgrades. Plus, because it will be pushed to near capacity more often than a larger PSU, it will be generating more heat that will cause the PSU fan spin up to full speed and loudness more often. Since PSU fans port their noise right out the back, cases are not able to suppress that noise. So I recommend a 600 - 650W supply.

7. The CX line from Corsair, second from the bottom, does not have the reputation for quality or reliability as the higher end Corsair lines. If you want to go with Corsair, I would stick with the RM, HX, or AX series. And I recommend 80-PLUS Gold certification for better regulation and efficiency. I've been using EVGA Golds in my recent builds and really like them. I also like XFX and Seasonic. I would recommend selecting from one of these. Attempting to trim the budget with a budget PSU is a mistake. You don't buy a brand new Porsche then fill it up at the corner Tobacco and Bait shop.

Yes, all that I have proposed will bust your budget - but considering this computer should easily last you 3 to 5 years, spreading that increase in cost over that period of times makes it just pennies a day - some of that you will make up with a more efficient power supply!
I forgot to mention that i already have a SSD Kingston V300 SSDNow 124gb(Mostly for windows and some other small stuff) and 8gb ram.

One last thing

You think http://pcpartpicker.com/p/4V7XK8 is better than http://pcpartpicker.com/p/jcwhCJ ?
 
And you are 100% sure the RAM you have is compatible with the new motherboard? Did you check the motherboard's Memory QVL (qualified vendors list)?

Rats. It seems PCPartsPicker is down right now.

Will check back in a bit.
 
You've made multiple changes. I prefer Gigabyte boards. The MSI graphics card is not superclocked but is still a very nice, high-end card. I would rather have the Corsair case of those two. And the XFX PSU seems like a nice choice - though it does not leave a lot of headroom. You most likely would need to upgrade the PSU if you decide to add a second graphics card. But otherwise, it is fine.

And again, unless you verified, do not assume your RAM is compatible. And I still don't see an OS listed. Understand the vast majority of Windows licenses are NOT legally transferable to new computers.
 
About the OS i already got one on Christmas from my cousin because he won it in a giveaway with the key and all that stuff so it wont be a problem.

So now it should look better http://pcpartpicker.com/p/g2W3rH (
  • Some Intel B85 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Haswell Refresh CPUs.) What does this mean ? Is it something bad ?

About the RAM,,,, I will come back home in 2weeks or less so i will reply there once we get the stuff without the ram fixed.
 
About the OS i already got one on Christmas from my cousin because he won it in a giveaway with the key and all that stuff so it wont be a problem.

So now it should look better http://pcpartpicker.com/p/g2W3rH (
  • Some Intel B85 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Haswell Refresh CPUs.) What does this mean ? Is it something bad ?

Haswell has two codenames. The latter one is Devil's canyon which is also referred as Haswell Refresh. If your CPU is Devil's canyon, you may or may not need a BIOS update for the mobo to recognize the CPU. You'd need a haswell CPU to update the BIOS though.

And I am not sure whether i5 4460 is Devil's canyon.

EDIT: Based on the CPU's release date, I think it's Haswell and not Devil's canyon. Not 100% sure though.
 
Okay so i've changed the board as uauauauuauau suggested.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/nNdDt6

There are no compatibility errors or stuff like that.

Anything else that i should change ?

Edit: What RAM would you suggest to buy ?
 
The board says :
MEMORY TYPE
DDR3-1066 / 1333 / 1600 / 1866 / 2000 / 2133 / 2200 / 2400 / 2600 / 2666 / 2800 / 3000

MEMORY SLOTS
4 x 240-pin DIMM

The RAM SAYS:
240-pin DIMM

That means that it should go on it right ? I'm not an expert .. you told me to check the QVL or something like that but i dont even know what that is xD
 
That means that one of them is on some kind of acid or something ;x

So what would be your other best choice for RAM ?

The one that I picked is just fine! MSI probably did not test or update the QVL with this memory, but gSkill did the job for them! ;)
 
Okay thank you.

So once i come back home i will write here and tell you what ram i have currently.
 
Okay thank you.

So once i come back home i will write here and tell you what ram i have currently.

I did not realize that you had some ram already! Probably the one that you already have won't be compatible!
 
So about the part list that we agreed above... someone told me that :
``MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard`` why a z mobo ? your cpu is locked.. and above all with a crappy mobo
``G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory`` get a 1600 mhz instead if you take a h97 MOBO
``Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case`` TOO SMALL AND BADLY DESIGN AND BAD VENTILATION

So i've came up with http://pcpartpicker.com/p/CPMMjX is it atleast better ?
 
So about the part list that we agreed above... someone told me that :
``MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard`` why a z mobo ? your cpu is locked.. and above all with a crappy mobo
``G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory`` get a 1600 mhz instead if you take a h97 MOBO
``Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case`` TOO SMALL AND BADLY DESIGN AND BAD VENTILATION

So i've came up with http://pcpartpicker.com/p/CPMMjX is it atleast better ?

I would say that 16gb is a must (you choose 8gb only), the reasoning behind the 2133 is that you can then run it at a lower frequency and impose tighter timings, so the system actually gets snappier...

If you want a better case you can go with the Fractal Design Define R5. As for the board and the cpu, you can get the 4590k for like more $10, you have a z97 board which allow you to get free performance out of that cpu! I also do not see a cooler, are you planing to you the one intel gives?

The main differences between the Z97 and H97 is that the first one allows you to overclock and also has multi gpu support...

As for that R9 290, a nice card indeed, but im not sure that you will find it available anywhere...
 
I would say that 16gb is a must (you choose 8gb only), the reasoning behind the 2133 is that you can then run it at a lower frequency and impose tighter timings, so the system actually gets snappier...

If you want a better case you can go with the Fractal Design Define R5. As for the board and the cpu, you can get the 4590k for like more $10, you have a z97 board which allow you to get free performance out of that cpu! I also do not see a cooler, are you planing to you the one intel gives?

The main differences between the Z97 and H97 is that the first one allows you to overclock and also has multi gpu support...

As for that R9 290, a nice card indeed, but im not sure that you will find it available anywhere...
Okay so understanding what you said is :
Keep the one that we agreed and switch the case.

I also want to say that i'm not playing games that have insane requirements lets say Just Cause 3 for example.

The PC will be max 15hours on (I turn it off at night).
1. I'm not sure if there will be need of overclocking anything (I dont even know how to do this).
2. Maybe the 3-4hours of the 15h will be used to write plugins, run a test server to load plugins (Talking about Rust) and debug them. So here is another requirement : Run a 1player server with a game opened so alt tab wont take more than 5secs xD
3. In these 15hours i will be playing World Of Warcraft and csgo.

I want the games that i wrote about to run them atleast at high or medium.(CSGO & WOW easily with my old pc but at not that good amount of fps).
Yes.. i play csgo at 100+, WOW at 50 ? With a lot of addons ... RUST AT 25.

So when i said that i need a gaming computer i didnt mean (Overclock this beast as much as possible and run it 24/7).

I think you get what i actually wanna do with my PC... dont forget that i cant go over 850$

850$ should be:
1 Case
2 CPU (I will use the cooler that is in the box)
3 Wireless Network Adapter
4 Graphics Card
5 RAM
6 Power Supply
7 Motherboard

I dont need a Storage.. i already have some so i can buy it once i get more money.

QUESTION:
What is your recommendation which contains wireless network adapter, case, graphics andd all that stuff that i wrote above and should cost 800-850$ ?

Thanks for all the help.. i'm trying to spend that money as good as i can bcs i was trying to buy a new pc for 3-5 years ;x
 
Last edited:
Okay so understanding what you said is :
Keep the one that we agreed and switch the case.

I also want to say that i'm not playing games that have insane requirements lets say Just Cause 3 for example.

The PC will be max 15hours on (I turn it off at night).
1. I'm not sure if there will be need of overclocking anything (I dont even know how to do this).
2. Maybe the 3-4hours of the 15h will be used to write plugins, run a test server to load plugins (Talking about Rust) and debug them. So here is another requirement : Run a 1player server with a game opened so alt tab wont take more than 5secs xD
3. In these 15hours i will be playing World Of Warcraft and csgo.

I want the games that i wrote about to run them atleast at high or medium.(CSGO & WOW easily with my old pc but at not that good amount of fps).
Yes.. i play csgo at 100+, WOW at 50 ? With a lot of addons ... RUST AT 25.

So when i said that i need a gaming computer i didnt mean (Overclock this beast as much as possible and run it 24/7).

I think you get what i actually wanna do with my PC... dont forget that i cant go over 850$

850$ should be:
1 Case
2 CPU (I will use the cooler that is in the box)
3 Wireless Network Adapter
4 Graphics Card
5 RAM
6 Power Supply
7 Motherboard

I dont need a Storage.. i already have some so i can buy it once i get more money.

What is your recommendation which contains wireless network adapter, case, graphics andd all that stuff that i wrote above and should cost 800-850$ ?

Thanks for all the help.. i'm trying to spend that money as good as i can bcs i was trying to buy a new pc for 3-5 years ;x

If the pc was for me I would build it like this:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/nwy8f7

This will last you longer for the following reasons:
You will not find an R9 290, in fact the R9 390 is an improved 290 with double the vram.

16gbs of ram is a must... 2133 for the timing reasons (you can let it at defaults but when feel like you need to squeeze some more performance, tweak it!)

The 4690k is an unlocked cpu, it means that down the road you can change the multiplier and get it to run at faster for free. I would say that over 4.0Ghz is quite easy...

The Hyper 212 evo is a must, will keep the cpu cool and quiet, keep in mind that these cpus throttle when they get too hot... Also you can get yourself the 4690k oem/tray that it is cheaper because it does not include the crappy intel cooler...

This goes $10 above you budget, but it is in fact, a superior machine...
 
If the pc was for me I would build it like this:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/nwy8f7

This will last you longer for the following reasons:
You will not find an R9 290, in fact the R9 390 is an improved 290 with double the vram.

16gbs of ram is a must... 2133 for the timing reasons (you can let it at defaults but when feel like you need to squeeze some more performance, tweak it!)

The 4690k is an unlocked cpu, it means that down the road you can change the multiplier and get it to run at faster for free. I would say that over 4.0Ghz is quite easy...

The Hyper 212 evo is a must, will keep the cpu cool and quiet, keep in mind that these cpus throttle when they get too hot... Also you can get yourself the 4690k oem/tray that it is cheaper because it does not include the crappy intel cooler...

This goes $10 above you budget, but it is in fact, a superior machine...
Okay thank you ;)
So i'm gonna go with this build..

I got one last question ;x

The PCpartpicker shows me that the cheapest i5 4690k is from http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=I5-4690K&c=CJ
$4.99 shiping You think shiping to Greece will cost more ? I never ordered anything from a shop that is located in "UK?".
Because on ebay i see some kind of 100$ shiping and stuff like that.. thats why I am asking.
 
More than likely it will due to import taxes etc
 
Okay thank you ;)
So i'm gonna go with this build..

I got one last question ;x

The PCpartpicker shows me that the cheapest i5 4690k is from http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=I5-4690K&c=CJ
$4.99 shiping You think shiping to Greece will cost more ? I never ordered anything from a shop that is located in "UK?".
Because on ebay i see some kind of 100$ shiping and stuff like that.. thats why I am asking.

Have you taken into account, import taxes? The pcpartpicker link you used has prices from the united states... Please check prices of this items in Greece, it may be more expensive or cheaper...
 
Okay.. so trying to purchase it they do not ship to Greece.

So the CPU INTEL CORE I5-4690K in Greece costs:
BOX(No FAN) 281€
ΒΟΧ(FAN) 259,90€
TRAY 263,23€

I know there is no logic. Even if i pick the cheapest one which is the one with the fan (which is funny) is more expensive for 60€ xD

With what should i start buying firstly ? Motherboard case or something else ?
 
First I would go for Processor, Mobo, memory, etc
 
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