• Welcome to TechPowerUp Forums, Guest! Please check out our forum guidelines for info related to our community.
  • The forums have been upgraded with support for dark mode. By default it will follow the setting on your system/browser. You may override it by scrolling to the end of the page and clicking the gears icon.

Pc crash

spectralscarfs

New Member
Joined
May 6, 2025
Messages
6 (0.50/day)
I recently got thermal paste accidentily on my cpu and the socket when removeing the cooler. I cleaned it off with 99% isopropalachol, and I was sure I cleaned everythign off, but after that my monitor makes some buzz then my pc crashes no signal rgb turns to deafault and I need to turn it off by the psu and wait a while to power it back on. I happens pretty frequently
Specs
Ryzen 5 5600X
Rtx 3080 10gb
Asus Prime X570-P, I have a spare B550-F board that I can sue to test
Evga Gq 850W gold
32gb Corsair ram Nothing is wrong with the ram tested it in another pc's wasnt abel to requlicate the issue
Thermalright Frozen magic 240MM aio
 
I recently got thermal paste accidentily on my cpu and the socket when removeing the cooler. I cleaned it off with 99% isopropalachol, and I was sure I cleaned everythign off, but after that my monitor makes some buzz then my pc crashes no signal rgb turns to deafault and I need to turn it off by the psu and wait a while to power it back on. I happens pretty frequently
Specs
Ryzen 5 5600X
Rtx 3080 10gb
Asus Prime X570-P, I have a spare B550-F board that I can sue to test
Evga Gq 850W gold
32gb Corsair ram Nothing is wrong with the ram tested it in another pc's wasnt abel to requlicate the issue
Thermalright Frozen magic 240MM aio

You need a soft plastic tooth brush for the cpu socket and a means to air dry the socket itself. Also as a suggestion, remove the motherboard from the case and run it on a non conductive surface, with just the psu, ram, gpu, keyboard, mouse for testing.
 
Take some pics so the members can examine the areas
 
1000000570.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 20250429_221707.jpg
    20250429_221707.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 11
No I meant where you did the thermal paste and the socket, not when it’s all assembled we can’t see if there is any damage
 
Contact cleaner can be useful if it needs to be blasted out of a socket.

+1 for socket pics and for safe solvent and soft toothbrush.
 
What kind of TIM (thermal interface materials)? Most, but not all, are nonconductive. If nonconductive, this should not cause any electrical risks but certainly can degrade electrical continuity through a contaminated contact point. If metal based TIM, then the risk of permanent damage is possible.

A contaminated socket may result in system crashes but that would not cause the monitor to buzz. Where exactly is the buzz coming from? From inside the monitor case, or from the monitor's speakers (if it has speakers)? If from inside the monitor case, that's a monitor problem. If from the monitor's speaker, it probably is the computer, itself.

When you were doing maintenance, did you take the necessary ESD prevention procedures? That is, did you unplug the computer from the wall and touch bare metal of the case interior BEFORE reaching in, and frequently thereafter?

Triple check to make sure while you were digging around in there you didn't knock any cable loose.

Contact cleaner can be useful if it needs to be blasted out of a socket.
^^^This^^^

I recommend using CRC QD Electronic Cleaner or WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner. Typically, the power from the spray is enough for most cleaning jobs. But if the dirt is stubborn, I spray it with the contact cleaner then give it a soft scrub with a acid brush. Then spray it again to let the dirt and grime drip away.

I prefer and recommend using acid brushes as they use "natural" boar hair bristles, specifically chosen as they are non-interactive (won't melt or dissolve) with most solvents. While contact cleaner is [supposedly] safe for most plastics, I personally would not risk the possibility of having plastic bristles of a toothbrush dissolve and get in my CPU sockets :twitch:. But that's me. Plus, $6 for 36 acid brushes that you can use for all sorts of tasks is cheap!

I would orient the case (or removed motherboard) so the socket is facing the (newspaper covered) floor so excess contact cleaner will drip away - instead of puddling up on the board. Clearly, eye protection while spraying UP into the CPU socket is advised. Note excess contact cleaner will NOT hurt the motherboard or surrounding devices, but it may discolor (or take the shine off) surfaces if exposed to the cleaner for extended periods.
 
What kind of TIM (thermal interface materials)? Most, but not all, are nonconductive. If nonconductive, this should not cause any electrical risks but certainly can degrade electrical continuity through a contaminated contact point. If metal based TIM, then the risk of permanent damage is possible.

A contaminated socket may result in system crashes but that would not cause the monitor to buzz. Where exactly is the buzz coming from? From inside the monitor case, or from the monitor's speakers (if it has speakers)? If from inside the monitor case, that's a monitor problem. If from the monitor's speaker, it probably is the computer, itself.

When you were doing maintenance, did you take the necessary ESD prevention procedures? That is, did you unplug the computer from the wall and touch bare metal of the case interior BEFORE reaching in, and frequently thereafter?

Triple check to make sure while you were digging around in there you didn't knock any cable loose.


^^^This^^^

I recommend using CRC QD Electronic Cleaner or WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner. Typically, the power from the spray is enough for most cleaning jobs. But if the dirt is stubborn, I spray it with the contact cleaner then give it a soft scrub with a acid brush. Then spray it again to let the dirt and grime drip away.

I prefer and recommend using acid brushes as they use "natural" boar hair bristles, specifically chosen as they are non-interactive (won't melt or dissolve) with most solvents. While contact cleaner is [supposedly] safe for most plastics, I personally would not risk the possibility of having plastic bristles of a toothbrush dissolve and get in my CPU sockets :twitch:. But that's me. Plus, $6 for 36 acid brushes that you can use for all sorts of tasks is cheap!

I would orient the case (or removed motherboard) so the socket is facing the (newspaper covered) floor so excess contact cleaner will drip away - instead of puddling up on the board. Clearly, eye protection while spraying UP into the CPU socket is advised. Note excess contact cleaner will NOT hurt the motherboard or surrounding devices, but it may discolor (or take the shine off) surfaces if exposed to the cleaner for extended periods.
It's Corsair Xtm 30
 
Well, Corsair claims it is non-conductive so hopefully no permanent damage (at least from electrical shorts) occurred.
 
Just because it is, doesnt mean it's not bad, breadboard your rig.
I can try with a few other power supplies since I have a couple. How do I breadboard my rig?

What kind of TIM (thermal interface materials)? Most, but not all, are nonconductive. If nonconductive, this should not cause any electrical risks but certainly can degrade electrical continuity through a contaminated contact point. If metal based TIM, then the risk of permanent damage is possible.

A contaminated socket may result in system crashes but that would not cause the monitor to buzz. Where exactly is the buzz coming from? From inside the monitor case, or from the monitor's speakers (if it has speakers)? If from inside the monitor case, that's a monitor problem. If from the monitor's speaker, it probably is the computer, itself.

When you were doing maintenance, did you take the necessary ESD prevention procedures? That is, did you unplug the computer from the wall and touch bare metal of the case interior BEFORE reaching in, and frequently thereafter?

Triple check to make sure while you were digging around in there you didn't knock any cable loose.


^^^This^^^

I recommend using CRC QD Electronic Cleaner or WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner. Typically, the power from the spray is enough for most cleaning jobs. But if the dirt is stubborn, I spray it with the contact cleaner then give it a soft scrub with a acid brush. Then spray it again to let the dirt and grime drip away.

I prefer and recommend using acid brushes as they use "natural" boar hair bristles, specifically chosen as they are non-interactive (won't melt or dissolve) with most solvents. While contact cleaner is [supposedly] safe for most plastics, I personally would not risk the possibility of having plastic bristles of a toothbrush dissolve and get in my CPU sockets :twitch:. But that's me. Plus, $6 for 36 acid brushes that you can use for all sorts of tasks is cheap!

I would orient the case (or removed motherboard) so the socket is facing the (newspaper covered) floor so excess contact cleaner will drip away - instead of puddling up on the board. Clearly, eye protection while spraying UP into the CPU socket is advised. Note excess contact cleaner will NOT hurt the motherboard or surrounding devices, but it may discolor (or take the shine off) surfaces if exposed to the cleaner for extended periods.
The buzz is coming form the speakers on my minitor, when I had my headset plugged in the noise came from the head set, and was way quieter
 
I can try with a few other power supplies since I have a couple. How do I breadboard my rig?
Just trying one other known good power supply will tell you if your current supply is the problem or not.

Breadboarding requires you take everything out of the case and assemble the components on a large, wooden, bread/cutting board. This forces you to double check all connections but also removes from the equation something (likely the motherboard) shorting out through the case, through, for example, and extra standoff that should not be there.

The buzz is coming form the speakers on my minitor
Then the monitor is not the problem. Buzzing through speakers is often caused by poor grounding, but typically is more consistent. Still double-checkijng all data and power cables (inside the case and out to the monitor) are securely fastened would be a good idea.
 
Back
Top