Questions on first custom loop build after 10 months...

[A Computer Guy]

My first build of custom loop is about 10 months old now and I had a question about how much fluid loss might be expected in a 6 month period. I last filled off the fluid in my reservoir about 6 months ago (just above the bottom of the cap) before winter and in that time period I've lost about 1cm of fluid from the bottom of the cap. From what I read when I started this endeavor, some fluid loss was to be expected, however would you say this amount is normal?

I did leak testing (using EK leak tester 1 bar for 1 hour) after assembly and after adding a flow indicator a few months into the build. I don't appear to have any leaks at the moment and the computer has been running pretty much 24/7 since September 2020, mostly to keep the PC temperature stable as the room my PC is in can get very cold during the winter months.

Here are the specific components in use.

EK-CryoFuel Clear (Premix 1000mL)
EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple)
EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE 200 D5 PWM D-RGB - Acetal
EK-FB ASRock X470 Gaming K4 RGB Monoblock - Nickel
EK-Quantum Vector Radeon RX 5700 +XT D-RGB - Nickel + Plexi
EK-Quantum Torque 6-Pack STC 10/13 - Nickel
EK-Torque Angled 90° - Nickel
EK-Torque Angled 45° - Nickel
EK-DuraClear 9,5/12,7mm 3M RETAIL
Alphacool Eisfluegel flow indicator G1/4 square...

2nd part: At this point what were clear tubes have a bit of a yellow tinge to them, in particular on the hot side of the loop and I intend to replace the tubes as I do my 1yr teardown and inspection sometime in the next two months. I had been considering the tube replacement with EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black however I didn't realize at the time I did my initial build they don't supply it in 10mm/13mm. I'd rather not have to buy all new fittings to replace the tubes. Any recommended alternative that is similar to EK-ZMT?

 

[maxfly]

The fluid loss is probably just air thats worked its way out of your rads. No matter how hard we try its almost impossible to get all of the air out of a loop. So even after several months its not uncommon to have some air work its way into the res. Nothing to worry about.
Your tubing may be yellowing on the outside. Try a wet rag and a little dish soap. If it is on the inside its likely solder flux from your rads if they were new to the loop.
The only tubing i trust is primochill lrt but i dont know if they have a matte black unfortunately.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
Air it takes a while to get it all out just 100% on the pump and let it run like that

Sounds like the radiators weren't all that clean if it's already yellowing or anything but clear or as clear as the fluid is

I've seen some bad clear fluid here's some of ek's clear premix not too good hope yours wasn't this bad
All that crap floating around will clog a water block pretty quick.

 

[A Computer Guy]

Hi,
Air it takes a while to get it all out just 100% on the pump and let it run like that

Sounds like the radiators weren't all that clean if it's already yellowing or anything but clear or as clear as the fluid is

I've seen some bad clear fluid here's some of ek's clear premix not too good hope yours wasn't this bad
All that crap floating around will clog a water block pretty quick.

I gave the rad a cleaning before the initial install but but must not have been enough as there was some minor debris floating around in the fluid after about the 1st week. When I installed the flow indicator later I drained and filtered the fluid though a coffee filter and it's been crystal clear ever since.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
You can bet anything that was in the rad/ fluid are stuck in the water blocks.
I always use one of these
Spectre 2369 Premium Clearview Fuel Filter

 

[A Computer Guy]

The fluid loss is probably just air thats worked its way out of your rads. No matter how hard we try its almost impossible to get all of the air out of a loop. So even after several months its not uncommon to have some air work its way into the res. Nothing to worry about.
Your tubing may be yellowing on the outside. Try a wet rag and a little dish soap. If it is on the inside its likely solder flux from your rads if they were new to the loop.
The only tubing i trust is primochill lrt but i dont know if they have a matte black unfortunately.

Yea no luck there so it may be as you said about the solder flux perhaps on the inside and/or the EK duraclear perhaps isn't that great. I'll see if I have better luck with primochill this next time around.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
Just look for plaster free clear tubing which not much is it's just a clear tubing thing.

 

[A Computer Guy]

Hi,
You can bet anything that was in the rad/ fluid are stuck in the water blocks.
I always use one of these
Spectre 2369 Premium Clearview Fuel Filter

From what I could see the fins on the blocks don't look to be clogged (I'm sure there's probably some minor debris lodged in there somewhere from that 1st week) and no signs of corrosion either but I will have to wait until disassembly to really get a close enough unobstructed view of it.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
What region are you in ?
Might be able to point you to some products if in the US.

 

[FireFox]

I'll see if I have better luck with primochill this next time around.

Sure you will

 

[A Computer Guy]

Hi,
You can bet anything that was in the rad/ fluid are stuck in the water blocks.
I always use one of these
Spectre 2369 Premium Clearview Fuel Filter

The part doesn't say what metal is involved. Rather not add any metals the loop that I don't know what it is. If my fluid is running clear do I really need a filter in the loop and how much does the filter negatively impact the flow of a D5 pump?

 

[ThrashZone]

The part doesn't say what metal is involved. Rather not add any metals the loop that I don't know what it is. If my fluid is running clear do I really need a filter in the loop and how much does the filter negatively impact the flow of a D5 pump?

Hi,
Using premix fluids it doesn't matter but this is not something you leave in
It's mainly for cleaning to catch all the crap while the water it running through radiators/... so you don't have to rely on shaking stuff to get it all out.

I use quick disconnects so I do leave the filter in for a week or two and yes it is a bit restrictive seeing it's a very good filter and clear so you can see what is being picked up and when it's not anymore

 

[A Computer Guy]

Hi,
What region are you in ?
Might be able to point you to some products if in the US.

Northeast USA. Other than tubing I've been thinking about putting in some quick disconnects.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
QDC's nothing better than koolance
There are some good offerings at modmymods
I switched to these products
Bet they still are allowing coolant as a discount code for one free liter
This is mayhems XT-1 mixed locally
ModMyMods ModWater PC Coolant- Clear – 1 Liter (MOD-0275) - Clear Liquid - Liquid ModMyMods.com - PC Watercooling Parts and Accessories

Clear pvc soft tubing
ModMyMods 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD Flexible PVC Tubing - Crystal Clear (MOD-0003) - 3/8” ID x 5/8” OD Soft Tubing - Tubing ModMyMods.com - PC Watercooling Parts and Accessories

 

[A Computer Guy]

Hi,
Using premix fluids it doesn't matter but this is not something you leave in
It's mainly for cleaning to catch all the crap while the water it running through radiators/... so you don't have to rely on shaking stuff to get it all out.

I use quick disconnects so I do leave the filter in for a week or two and yes it is a bit restrictive seeing it's a very good filter and clear so you can see what is being picked up and when it's not anymore

Ah I see. Yea the quick disconnects would make it nice to inline the filter for a short time. Nice idea!

 

[ThrashZone]

Ah I see. Yea the quick disconnects would make it nice to inline the filter for a short time. Nice idea!

Hi,
I use these you can get them cheaper going to koolance directly rather than amazon/...

QD3-MS10X16-BK
QD3-FS10X16-BK

 

[thesmokingman]

Ah I see. Yea the quick disconnects would make it nice to inline the filter for a short time. Nice idea!

For ex. new loop with filter in there, be aware of how long the whole filter unit is with matching QDCs will be.


For me, I only need one QDC on the lower half of the gpu. The hose on the other end will be drained by the time I get to it since... a single QDC anywhere in the loop will make it possible to break said loop apart to "blow" all the water out. Thus an upper gpu QDC is not expressly needed and well sticking a QDC there is just a huge PITA anyways. In the below pic I would either use my trusty datavac using the hose that comes off the gpu and blow all the water out. If I didn't have the datavac handy, you can just blow it out with your lungs.


Inline filter removed etc.

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
Yeah I've got like three or four pairs per build
Easy tro swap cpu blocks or gpu's between builds

If you get some koolance qdc's piping, male is outlet and female is inlet for least restriction.
QD4's are newest version