Sudden Hotspot temperature spikes

[mama]

I just built a new water-cooled rig and have been putting it through some tests. There was a system crash running 3D Mark Timespy (complete shutdown). With GPUZ and HWInfo64 in the background I tried the Application again and noted massive spikes in the hotspot on the GPU. It was going from 30 degrees to 114 degrees in seconds and back again. The temperatures for the other GPU sensors remained low and unmoving. Is this a bad paste application or something else?

 

[OolongGoat]

I would 100% check to ensure the block is properly installed on the GPU. As someone who just did the maintenance of their water-cooling system, a bad mount could cause hot spot temperatures to spike. Double check your thermal pads and TIM application.

Are your system specs current? Your screen captures shows AM5, but your specs are showing an AM4 system.

 

[mama]

I would 100% check to ensure the block is properly installed on the GPU. As someone who just did the maintenance of their water-cooling system, a bad mount could cause hot spot temperatures to spike. Double check your thermal pads and TIM application.

Are your system specs current? Your screen captures shows AM5, but your specs are showing an AM4 system.

I haven't updated the specs yet. AM5 now.

 

[GerKNG]

that's a really bad mount with either extremely one sided mounting pressure or barely any mounting pressure.

 

[cvaldes]

My guess is that it's a malfunctioning thermal sensor in the GPU, possibly damaged when you mounted the waterblock.

 

[DarkDreams]

My guess is that it's a malfunctioning thermal sensor in the GPU, possibly damaged when you mounted the waterblock.

The hotspot temperature graph follows the gpu load graph almost one to one. I don't think a malfunctioning sensor would produce results this acurate. I believe, like the others, that it is most likely a bad mount or TIM issue in this case.
Edit: Might also be one of the VRMs overheating since the temperature also follows the power draw very closely. So check if thermal pads are the correct size and all VRMs are covered as well.

 

[mama]

The hotspot temperature graph follows the gpu load graph almost one to one. I don't think a malfunctioning sensor would produce results this acurate. I believe, like the others, that it is most likely a bad mount or TIM issue in this case.
Edit: Might also be one of the VRMs overheating since the temperature also follows the power draw very closely. So check if thermal pads are the correct size and all VRMs are covered as well.

So this is my XFX 6900XT from my AM4 rig. I got a Byski waterblock but the installation instructions were abominable. The instructions required no thermal pad installation between the PCB and the backplate and just the supplied pads on the top between the waterblock. When I took the card apart I noted there were pads on the rear and wasn't sure whether to keep them. I eventually decided to remove them (as that was what the woeful instructions said it should look like). Could this be the issue? Is it usual to have pads installed on the rear of PCB on a water cooled card? If so, other than physically trying to measure the distance, how do I calculate the thermal pad thickness required?

 

[AusWolf]

So this is my XFX 6900XT from my AM4 rig. I got a Byski waterblock but the installation instructions were abominable. The instructions required no thermal pad installation between the PCB and the backplate and just the supplied pads on the top between the waterblock. When I took the card apart I noted there were pads on the rear and wasn't sure whether to keep them. I eventually decided to remove them (as that was what the woeful instructions said it should look like). Could this be the issue? Is it usual to have pads installed on the rear of PCB on a water cooled card? If so, other than physically trying to measure the distance, how do I calculate the thermal pad thickness required?

If you buy thermal pads, try buying several ones of different thickness. Try with the thinnest one, mount the backplate, disassemble, and see if the thermal pad deformed a bit or not. If it didn't, try a size thicker one, and so on until you find the perfect fit. I don't have much experience with waterblock installation, but this is what I'd do.

As for your OP, there's definitely some contact issue between the block and the GPU. Check for thermal paste evenness and make sure every bit of the GPU die is covered. The smallest missed bit or corner can cause a bad hot spot to appear.

 

[Deleted member 185158]

It really depends on the thermal pads you want to use. 2mm will be too thick.1mm or 1.5mm grizzly would work. Look for high wk/m like 12 if you choose a different brand.

 

[OolongGoat]

Can you provide a link to your specific water block??

Typically, the pads on the backside are to soak some heat to the back plate passively. For my 3080 Ti and 2080 Super, this helps with keeping the memory cool and some of the power components.

** Is this your waterblock? Bykski Full Coverage GPU Water Block and Backplate for XFX RX 6800/690 – BYKSKI.US

Those instructions are pretty bad.... I thought Bitspower had some issues with instructions....

Looking at the instructions, the thermal pads it is calling for 2mm thick on the top side of the card. The thermal pads on the backside of your card are 3mm.

I would replace those as shown and put the backplate back on. The pads will compress a bit.

When I redid my GPU block, I would advise when you are ready to start tightening down the screws, start with those around the GPU core first and do an X pattern, going from corner to corner to get them started. Someone here mentioned to me that you should then squeeze the block, backplate, and card together in one hand while continuing to tighten down the screws in the X pattern.

This should help get an even mounting pressure on the GPU core and then you can go ahead and work from the center of the card going outward to the edges with the rest of the screws. Again, I would start them all until they begin to grab and then tighten them down in an alternating pattern like the GPU core.

Just make sure you have the thermal pads in the proper spots and they aren't riding up on the cold plate or outside of any grooves they are supposed to be in. It can make all the difference in the world.

Also, it doesn't appear this block calls for thermal pads to be placed in all the spots where the air cooler has them. I would definitely get some pads for the power delivery components that touch the cold plate.

I don't have any experience with Bykski products, I have always used EK and Bitspower.

 

[mama]

Can you provide a link to your specific water block??

Typically, the pads on the backside are to soak some heat to the back plate passively. For my 3080 Ti and 2080 Super, this helps with keeping the memory cool and some of the power components.

** Is this your waterblock? Bykski Full Coverage GPU Water Block and Backplate for XFX RX 6800/690 – BYKSKI.US

Those instructions are pretty bad.... I thought Bitspower had come issues with instructions....

Looking at the instructions, the thermal pads it is calling for 2mm thick on the top side of the card. The thermal pads on the backside of your card are 3mm.

View attachment 267078

View attachment 267075

View attachment 267077


I would replace those as shown and put the backplate back on. The pads will compress a bit.

When I redid my GPU block, I would advise when you are ready to start tightening down the screws, start with those around the GPU core first and do an X pattern, going from corner to corner to get them started. Someone here mentioned to me that you should then squeeze the block, backplate, and card together in one hand while continuing to tighten down the screws in the X pattern.

This should help get an even mounting pressure on the GPU core and then you can go ahead and work from the center of the card going outward to the edges with the rest of the screws. Again, I would start them all until they begin to grab and then tighten them down in an alternating pattern like the GPU core.

Just make sure you have the thermal pads in the proper spots and they aren't riding up on the cold plate or outside of any grooves they are supposed to be in. It can make all the difference in the world.

Also, it doesn't appear this block calls for thermal pads to be placed in all the spots where the air cooler has them. I would definitely get some pads for the power delivery components that touch the cold plate.

I don't have any experience with Bykski products, I have always used EK and Bitspower.

Thank you. This is very helpful.

 

[mama]

Can you provide a link to your specific water block??

Typically, the pads on the backside are to soak some heat to the back plate passively. For my 3080 Ti and 2080 Super, this helps with keeping the memory cool and some of the power components.

** Is this your waterblock? Bykski Full Coverage GPU Water Block and Backplate for XFX RX 6800/690 – BYKSKI.US

Those instructions are pretty bad.... I thought Bitspower had some issues with instructions....

Looking at the instructions, the thermal pads it is calling for 2mm thick on the top side of the card. The thermal pads on the backside of your card are 3mm.

View attachment 267078

View attachment 267075

View attachment 267077


I would replace those as shown and put the backplate back on. The pads will compress a bit.

When I redid my GPU block, I would advise when you are ready to start tightening down the screws, start with those around the GPU core first and do an X pattern, going from corner to corner to get them started. Someone here mentioned to me that you should then squeeze the block, backplate, and card together in one hand while continuing to tighten down the screws in the X pattern.

This should help get an even mounting pressure on the GPU core and then you can go ahead and work from the center of the card going outward to the edges with the rest of the screws. Again, I would start them all until they begin to grab and then tighten them down in an alternating pattern like the GPU core.

Just make sure you have the thermal pads in the proper spots and they aren't riding up on the cold plate or outside of any grooves they are supposed to be in. It can make all the difference in the world.

Also, it doesn't appear this block calls for thermal pads to be placed in all the spots where the air cooler has them. I would definitely get some pads for the power delivery components that touch the cold plate.

I don't have any experience with Bykski products, I have always used EK and Bitspower.

Seems to be back on track now. Inexperience + Poor Instructions = Bad result.

 

[OolongGoat]

How does your load temperature look when running Time Spy now?? Games??