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Sunbeam Core Contact Freezer any good?

Wartz

New Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Messages
168 (0.03/day)
System Name Triton-XXXV
Processor Phenom II x4 940 3.6ghz 1.42
Motherboard Biostar TFORCE TA790GX A2+
Cooling Sunbeam CR-CCTF
Memory 2 x 2048mb G.Skill PC-6400 @ 800mhz
Video Card(s) Crossfire Sapphire Radeon HD 4870 512mb
Storage 2x Seagate 500gb Sata 3.0gb/s + Seagate 750gb Sata 3.0gb/s
Display(s) Asus 24" 2ms + Viewsonic 19" 3ms
Case Thermaltake midtower
Audio Device(s) X-fi XtremeGamer - Razer Barracuda 5.1
Power Supply Seasonic 650w
Software Windows XP/7
Benchmark Scores Vantage: P13017 3DMarks (Crossfire) 3DMark06: 15349 3DMarks (single GPU)
I've looked at it. Doesn't look much different than the Xigmatek S1283
 
yeah thats what I thought. I Just wanted a 2nd opinion :)
 
This thing is ideal for AMD socket mounting as the direction of fan and airflow is towards rear of the case not like the Xigmatek or other coolers which can only be mounted pushing hot air into the PSU or to the GPU.

And this has 4 pipes as against 1283's 3 pipes.
 
hmmmmm touche.... my glance was just a quick one, yours much more indepth.
 
Ordered!

thanks:toast:
 
bump ;)

k, after a bit of a struggle to get it in (had to remove PSU) my new cooler is up and running. Its not as wide as my xigmatek but its thicker. I like the way the fan attaches better than the xig, with these 2 little wire clips, though the xig's rubber plugs was probably better in terms of vibration damping. But they were an utter PITA to force though those little holes in the fan, so I'm sort of glad I didn't have to do that.

Anyhow: Details!

I rubbed Arctic Silver 5 onto the heatsink in an almost invisble film to force paste into the small cracks between the heatpipes and base. Then I applied 4 thin lines of paste onto the heatpipes, with the 2 middle ones about a little more than an inch long and the 2 outer lines half that length.

The stock fan seems decent, its got solid CFM, not too loud, and it comes with a nifty little speed controller. I may replace it later though.

The heatsink itself seems about the same quality as the xig visually, copper pipes, similar thickness to the fins, etc.

Temps seem pretty solid, idle temps are about the same as the stock cooler, but 100% load temps are 15~ degrees lower.

Temps will probably go up another 3-5 degrees higher than in this pic as I keep running p95 for the next few hours.

temps.PNG
 
The fan sits over the 1st 2 ram slots, so as long as you don't have really tall ram (heatsinks or whatever) it would fit perfectly
 
bump ;)

k, after a bit of a struggle to get it in (had to remove PSU) my new cooler is up and running. Its not as wide as my xigmatek but its thicker. I like the way the fan attaches better than the xig, with these 2 little wire clips, though the xig's rubber plugs was probably better in terms of vibration damping. But they were an utter PITA to force though those little holes in the fan, so I'm sort of glad I didn't have to do that.

Anyhow: Details!

I rubbed Arctic Silver 5 onto the heatsink in an almost invisble film to force paste into the small cracks between the heatpipes and base. Then I applied 4 thin lines of paste onto the heatpipes, with the 2 middle ones about a little more than an inch long and the 2 outer lines half that length.

The stock fan seems decent, its got solid CFM, not too loud, and it comes with a nifty little speed controller. I may replace it later though.

The heatsink itself seems about the same quality as the xig visually, copper pipes, similar thickness to the fins, etc.

Temps seem pretty solid, idle temps are about the same as the stock cooler, but 100% load temps are 15~ degrees lower.

Temps will probably go up another 3-5 degrees higher than in this pic as I keep running p95 for the next few hours.

temps.PNG

I don't know if you know already, you do not need to do all those kind of things while applying the paste.

I do 2 ways
1. Put a drop of AS5 in the middle of the CPU, then using a old credit card I spread the paste until it forms a uniform very thin layer. Then just put the HS on the cpu and clip it - done.
2. If I am bit lazy, same way just put a drop os AS5 in the middle of the CPU, then put the HS on the CPU give 2 small twists and clip the HS - done.

1 - gives better result for me.

:toast:
 
i reveiwed the CCF amazing cooler one of the best for air imo
 
I don't know if you know already, you do not need to do all those kind of things while applying the paste.

I do 2 ways
1. Put a drop of AS5 in the middle of the CPU, then using a old credit card I spread the paste until it forms a uniform very thin layer. Then just put the HS on the cpu and clip it - done.
2. If I am bit lazy, same way just put a drop os AS5 in the middle of the CPU, then put the HS on the CPU give 2 small twists and clip the HS - done.

1 - gives better result for me.

:toast:

That's what I used to do, but I found I would get better temps with exposed copper heatpipe designs by rubbing paste into the base of the sink so all the little cracks between the base and the pipes get filled. Just a microthin layer. Then the thin lines of paste on the cpu or on the cooler so it crushes out evenly into a square shape instead of round.

The credit card method would probably give a little better result, but its annoying to do and my cc is a mess afterward. :p

We'll see though, if I need to shave off a degree or 2 when pushing for 4ghz, I try to reset the heatsink using cc.
 
That's what I used to do, but I found I would get better temps with exposed copper heatpipe designs by rubbing paste into the base of the sink so all the little cracks between the base and the pipes get filled. Just a microthin layer. Then the thin lines of paste on the cpu or on the cooler so it crushes out evenly into a square shape instead of round.

The credit card method would probably give a little better result, but its annoying to do and my cc is a mess afterward. :p

We'll see though, if I need to shave off a degree or 2 when pushing for 4ghz, I try to reset the heatsink using cc.

The point is to use a old useless CC:p

Anyway I am thinking of this cooler or the TR 128SE from Xaxaz.
 
The point is to use a old useless CC:p

Anyway I am thinking of this cooler or the TR 128SE from Xaxaz.

unlike most americans, I don't have bunch of extra old maxed out creditcards laying around. :p
 
I got this cooler awhile ago cause it ranked No. 1 at frost tech and cost half as much as all the over priced junk people talk up like crazy all over hardware forums. My experience was that it is one hell of a pain to put on, had to bend the fins on one of my mobo's heatsinks to get it to fit on the second time, and then it took so much force to put on, almost snapping off a voltage regulator and or cracking the mobo (X38 P5E) that I can safely say I won't ever be touching the seating of it again. The fan became very noisy, making a sound like a hdd constantly working. Replaced it with a dead silent but high airflow Twister Magma fan, everything is working fine now and I'm happy with performance... but I've mounted this thing twice now going two different ways, and while the clip system it uses on the base is nice, the actual locking down of the heatsink is not very good considering the blocky cooler design of modern motherboards. I wouldn't recommend this to first time builders that purchased a top end board. Though if it was down to this or the xiggy vs. some outdated $70 thermalright or zalman it'd be a different story.
 
mounting as the direction

mounting as the direction of fan and airflow is towards rear of the case not like the Xigmatek or other coolers which can only be mounted pushing hot air
 
unlike most americans, I don't have bunch of extra old maxed out creditcards laying around. :p

Ouch! Wicked burn. But This is the method I use, and has always worked well. And it doesn't have to be a credit card.. A nice sturdy business card works as well.

I am thinking about getting this cooler, to stay on topic, because the one I am using now ain't pulling its weight, and I can transfer this over to my AM3 build when I get around to that
 
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