Which UPS battery last longer ?

[Martin007]

Hi

I have models near me to buy from brand Ultracell , UL Range, Long, NPP . Which has longer life span ?

Thanks

 

[Shrek]

A lithium replacement probably lasts the longest.

 

[Martin007]

Dont have this option . I only got the above brands as Acid Battery

 

[Bill_Bright]

No doubt a Li-Ion battery will last longer (assuming not defective or abused), but they do cost more.

Beyond that, I have used many, perhaps dozens of different brand SLA UPS batteries over the years and frankly, there is no way to tell which last longer. This is because their lifespan depends totally on how they are used. If your UPS switches over to battery power frequently, that will decrease the life expectancy. If the load on the battery is heavy, that will decrease the life expectancy. If, when on battery, the runtime is longer, that will decrease the life expectancy. If the UPS runs in a very warm environment, or if it gets quite warm when on battery or when charging, that will decrease the life expectancy.

Having said all that, I have also found that many of these batteries are actually the same inside. I note about 95% of the materials used to make these SLA batteries are recyclable. And so what was a UPG today may be recycled into a MightyMax tomorrow and UB the next.

So I say, get the one with the cheapest price and longest warranty. For the record, I just purchased from Amazon, ChromeBattery AGM batteries and thus far, happy with them. I have also used many MightyMax.

Be sure to note the correct terminal size. They typically are F1 or F2 (or T1 or T2). There are adapters but typical UPS battery compartments don't have the extra space.

F1 vs F2 terminal connector size

F1 Terminal – 3/16” (0.187”, 4.8mm) wide

F2 Terminal – 1/4" (0.25”, 6.35mm) wide

Also note if your current battery is 7Ah for example, you can always go 8Ah or even 9Ah. This will give you longer runtimes and depending on the UPS maybe even more power. So you can go higher Ah, but never lower.

You MUST, however, always go with the same voltage.

 

[Martin007]

I know there are different variables but I am asking as a brand because the original UPS battery lasted 2 years while every time I get addition battery last few months with same usage so I am asking based on the brand

 

[ThrashZone]

Hi,
The one with the best warranty lol
I get at least the 2 year warranty add on, if it fails it will be within that time.
If not then you got a decent product.

 

[Shrek]

I ran a whole project on trying to revive lead-acid batteries.
Desulfation in Lead-acid Batteries; a Novel (resistive) Approach : 3 Steps - Instructables

Then I realised I only needed a few minutes, so used supercapacitors

Replacing a UPS Battery With Super-Capacitors

Replacing a UPS Battery With Super-Capacitors: Got tired of replacing the lead-acid battery in a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply), so put together a super-capacitor array to go in its place. Such units are now commercially available https://www.marathon-power.com/supercapacitor-ups....

www.instructables.com

Some of those Dakota batteres have an 11 year warranty, so if you are only getting 2 years, it may be the cheaper option;
but one would need to derate the UPS to stay within the lithium batteries current limits.

 

[The Von Matrices]

UPS batteries are lead acid not just because of price but also because they have huge currents. I would be careful in using a different battery chemistry without first checking that it can put out the same amount of current for a long time. Most lithium ion batteries are designed for much lower sustained currents.

You can also just do what I did and make the larger batteries external to the UPS (although this is for a server rack UPS).

 

[AsRock]

Just make sure you have some kind of warranty you should be good, just don't keep discharging it and use it just so every thing can be shutdown correctly.

With that said if your in the US the ones from even Walmart will last and are about $22 each.

A lithium replacement probably lasts the longest.

View attachment 323461

Also a fire hazard.

 

[Bill_Bright]

while every time I get addition battery last few months

Something else is wrong then. I have 8 different UPS here, of all different sizes. Six are APC, one is Cyberpower and the one on my home theater system, the one I just put the ChomeBattery cells in, is actually a "Geek Squad" UPS from Best Buy that "appears" to be made by Cyberpower. My oldest is a 30 year old APC 900 sitting in my garage to support my garage door opener. It uses 4 x 6V 12Ah batteries. All other UPS use 12V cells.

In the past, I have been responsible for over 30 UPS of various sizes used by my work and clients.

I have never had a battery last less than 2 years, with a little more than 4 years being the average.

If yours are lasting only "months" - as in less than 1 year - then something else is wrong. Either your UPS itself is faulty, or your line/mains is faulty, abusing your UPS and its batteries. Either that, or you have very bad luck and in that case, most SLA batteries have 1 or 2 year warranties.

If you are so inclined, and have a meter, you need to measure the charging voltage of your UPS. The voltage will be determine by the way the individual cells are strapped together in the UPS.

Typically, the charging voltage will be 1 to 2 volts higher than the battery's normal output. This is why the charging voltage for your typical 12V battery is typically somewhere between 13.2V and 14.4V.

If confused about cells and batteries, note when the UPS uses 2 SLA batteries, for example, each battery becomes a "cell" used to form one "battery". If you a flashlight that uses 3 AA batteries, when inserted in the flashlight, each AA battery becomes a "cell" to create one battery. Clear as mud, huh?

You should also check your wall outlet. Every home and every computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester to ensure the wall outlet is properly wired and grounded to Earth ground. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets (outlets near water) too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, (like this one for the UK, or this one for German outlets) at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. Use it to test all the outlets in the home and if a fault is shown, have it fixed by a qualified electrician.

 

[Shrek]

I know there are different variables but I am asking as a brand because the original UPS battery lasted 2 years while every time I get addition battery last few months with same usage so I am asking based on the brand

A few months is rediculously low; do you keep them charged up? (lead-acid hates sitting discharged).

At that point I assume you are using the warranty?

Also a fire hazard.

I believe it depends on what sort; LiFePO4 has high saftey.

 

[Martin007]

A few months is rediculously low; do you keep them charged up? (lead-acid hates sitting discharged).

It is because I got other bad brands . I use it in UPS so I can safely shutdown my PC

 

[Bill_Bright]

It is because I got other bad brands

You are missing our point.

It is highly unlikely it has anything to do with the brand. Lead-acid batteries have been around for over 150 years!!!! There is very little difference in today's lead acid than than those of yesteryear. Yes, they are "sealed" now, and the materials are much more pure, but the technology is the same.

And because these batteries must comply with industry standard configurations, including safety regulations, any differences are marginal at best - even between no-name generics. Frankly, unless it says Duracell or Energizer on the SLA battery I am not aware of any "name brand" SLA battery maker. And odds are, Duracell and Energizer have an OEM manufacturer for any SLA batteries they sell.

I use it in UPS so I can safely shutdown my PC

Ummm, yes. We understand that. Your thread title explains that too.

Do you plug your UPS into a surge protector? Or do you plug your surge protector into a UPS? If you do, DON'T! Never connect a UPS to a surge and spike protector. Likewise, never connect a surge and spike protector to a UPS. The AVR circuits may see the power coming from a surge and spike protector as "dirty" and shut down to protect itself, and the connected devices. And if the surge and spike protector is put on the output side of the UPS, the AVR circuits may see the load as unstable. Note these warnings are found in most (every one that I have seen) UPS user guide. See this APC FAQ for more information on this.

 

[Martin007]

Do you plug your UPS into a surge protector? Or do you plug your surge protector into a UPS? If you do, DON'T! Never connect a UPS to a surge and spike protector. Likewise, never connect a surge and spike protector to a UPS. The AVR circuits may see the power coming from a surge and spike protector as "dirty" and shut down to protect itself, and the connected devices. And if the surge and spike protector is put on the output side of the UPS, the AVR circuits may see the load as unstable. Note these warnings are found in most (every one that I have seen) UPS user guide. See this APC FAQ for more information on this.

I put equalizer then connect the UPS to it but UPS never shutdown also in power outage it display different led with sound beep as a warning

 

[R-T-B]

I believe it depends on what sort; LiFePO4 has high saftey.

It is. It's not water sensitive as Li-Ion. And even with Li-Ion, just have a fire extinguisher nearby. You should for any high value electronic-cave anyways.

 

[Divide Overflow]

Do they have absorbed glass mat batteries for UPS yet?

 

[lilhasselhoffer]

So...I've seen both sides of this theoretical conversation and I don't think that OP understands the nuance of some very basic things. Let me explain from the beginning...or jump to the line for a TL;DR.

The lead acid battery is super simple. You have a metal, you have an electrolyte. Connect item in one direction and the electrolyte strips the outside layer of the metal to form a less chemically energetic salt and water. Connect it in the opposite direction and the metallic salt will condense on the surface of the metal plate. The biggest "change" in the design of batteries has been how many plates, how thick, and how much heat should the case endure. This is why a battery inside of a boat, car, and UPS backup are all the same.

What do those things actually do? Well, the voltage is determined by the plates in series, while the plates in parallel and their relative thickness determine the cold cranking amperage. Basically, design determines how many plates, but the manufacturer can wire as many in as they want in parallel to either cater to lots of amperage (think starting a boat), or more duration (think batteries designed for cars to run thing while shutdown like emergency lights).


So...brand is not a good indicator of anything. What brand indicates is who actually made the battery...via their naming deals. That's right, the amount of companies that actually manufacturer batteries are maybe 3 at volume, and everything gets a brand. Your best bet for brand to mean anything is when you purchase a reconditioned battery...which I wouldn't exactly recommend for a UPS.



So, the recommendation stands from everyone here...maybe there's a different problem. If the first battery lasted years, and the second lasted 6 months, then something changed. I'd ask a hundred idiot questions....but let me start with the only one that matters. Should you be playing with this? The last time I saw somebody do this kind of thing they bought a battery that was improperly rated for extended pull...so they bought a premium battery that basically toasted the plates inside of a few months by simply drawing it to heat death. That's really easy if you just buy a battery based on volume and voltage...and may speak not to a faulty brand but a faulty understanding of draw.



Here's the big book of basics...so maybe you can understand some more about why brand is not a driving factor so much as technology and specifications:
Lithium Ion
-longest lasting power
-lowest instantaneous draw
-offgassing is flammable
-high propensity to swell over time
-very environmentally tuned and sealed
Lithium Polymer
-Special charging should be heeded, again due to an even higher propensity for cell swell
-High cost relative to capacity
-Decent longevity in charge/discharge cycles
-No offgassing...so cell pop is the largest failure mode
Lead-Acid
-Cheap
-High draw, low relative capacity
-High draws necessitate heat conscious design...but rugged reaction means they basically don't have to be worried about environment barring extreme cold
-Sealed and non-sealed versions exist. Remember to check your battery regularly, refill cells if water level drops, and hit with an antacid every 6-12 months before trickle charging so they last for way longer than their rated time

 

[Martin007]

I found two kind of batteries available to me AGM and UXL . I googled and I found UXL is better. That is correct ?

 

[TheinsanegamerN]

I found two kind of batteries available to me AGM and UXL . I googled and I found UXL is better. That is correct ?

We cant see your google search. Lead acid is Lead acid.

If you are tearing through batteries in 2-3 months you have a completely different issue. It's not your batteries that are the problem, its something in your setup.

 

[Martin007]

We cant see your google search. Lead acid is Lead acid.

If you are tearing through batteries in 2-3 months you have a completely different issue. It's not your batteries that are the problem, its something in your setup.

You are we ?
I think this is different technologies from searching like this "uxl battery" "agm battery"

 

[Bill_Bright]

Lead acid is Lead acid.

Kinda sorta, but not really. There are different types.

I found two kind of batteries available to me AGM and UXL . I googled and I found UXL is better. That is correct ?

Saying you googled something without providing the link for us to verify means nothing. There is tons of false information out there.

AGM is a type of lead acid battery. From what I can find, UXL is a series line from the battery maker YUASA.

AGM batteries have gained much popularity in newer cars where the engine turns off every time you come to a stop light. These batteries are designed to support many frequent, and heavy demand uses - such as starting the engine every couple minutes without there being much time to recharge.

IF your UPS is required to switch to battery backup frequently (several times a day) an AGM battery may be the better choice. Other wise a regular SLA battery is just fine.

UXL batteries are marketed as "long life" so "IF" you had a remote, or difficult to access application, they might be justified to spend the extra money - "IF" you could even find one with the correct electrical and physical characteristics.

HOWEVER, since it seems pretty obvious that something else (besides battery brand names) are prematurely killing your batteries, buying a much more expensive battery, without determining and fixing the cause of those failures just makes no sense at all.

IMO, if your mains are unstable and your UPS has to intervene frequently, then AGM is the way to go. And they come in standard UPS sizes too.

 

[Martin007]

Kinda sorta, but not really. There are different types.


Saying you googled something without providing the link for us to verify means nothing. There is tons of false information out there.

AGM is a type of lead acid battery. From what I can find, UXL is a series line from the battery maker YUASA.

AGM batteries have gained much popularity in newer cars where the engine turns off every time you come to a stop light. These batteries are designed to support many frequent, and heavy demand uses - such as starting the engine every couple minutes without there being much time to recharge.

IF your UPS is required to switch to battery backup frequently (several times a day) an AGM battery may be the better choice. Other wise a regular SLA battery is just fine.

UXL batteries are marketed as "long life" so "IF" you had a remote, or difficult to access application, they might be justified to spend the extra money - "IF" you could even find one with the correct electrical and physical characteristics.

HOWEVER, since it seems pretty obvious that something else (besides battery brand names) are prematurely killing your batteries, buying a much more expensive battery, without determining and fixing the cause of those failures just makes no sense at all.

IMO, if your mains are unstable and your UPS has to intervene frequently, then AGM is the way to go. And they come in standard UPS sizes too.

This is why I asked if the info in google is correct. Thanks

 

[Bill_Bright]

This is why I asked if the info in google is correct. Thanks

It is NOT about Google being correct. Surely Google did NOT give you just one result for your search.

It IS about the found article being correct, or not. And since you did not provide a link to that article so we can see the context and verify what it said, we still don't know if it was correct. For sure, in some applications, the UXL battery might be the better choice.

 

[Martin007]

I found this doc

https://www.gs-yuasa.com/en/products/pdf/UXL_Vietnam.pdf

UXL is super long life AGM battery lol

 

[Bill_Bright]

I found this doc

??? What's your point? In fact, I am confused about your entire reason for being here since it seems clear, you don't wish to heed any of the advice or information any of us have wasted our own volunteer time on.

I already noted they were "marketed" as "long life". And marketing hype from the manufacturer is hardly proof of anything. And last, it is still clear you have something else wrong that is taking out your batteries so there is absolutely nothing to suggest using long life battery is the solution to your problem.

So, at the risk of repeating myself, again, I'm moving on. Have a good day.