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x1950xt Stock Heatsink Mod Theory

mikamilover

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Joined
Nov 30, 2009
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Hello,
I have been reading about how the heat sink on x1950xt stinks:banghead:. I have been reading about all the aftermarket heat sinks for it. Zalman 900cu and the Arctic Cooling X2 type heat sink. One vents hot air back into case(arctic) and the other vents the hot air onto the 7 arrayed chips in a L formation, and into case as well.
I am looking at my x850xt Pe, and note that it has a similar setup. I have not yet recieved my x1950xt, but looking at the photos of it I can see it has a larger heatsink and opening for it. Me being a old school gearhead, remember hearing stories about header sizing. Some people were putting headers with bigger primaries(i.e) the area around the exhaust port near the header flange(or near the head). The problem was that the larger surface area caused bad scavenging. :confused: I.e. the exhaust gasses were not flowing out of the header any better than a smaller one, and actually worse.
So my point number one is, I would glue a strip of some plastic, or semi rigid material, overthe hole to make the intake area smaller at the rear of the intake plastic case. Theoretically this should increase the flow, and channel the air to the base of the heatsink, and hopefully improve cooling coefficeint or whatever you would call it.:rolleyes:
Next the Zalman cooler worked by directing airflow over the L pad area of the chips, and having metal tubes for the main chip. The next flaw it seems to me in the stock fan heat sink assembly would be it draws no air from beneath the plate. If the Zalman is so good at cooling the outer L shaped chips, 8 of them i believe. What i would do here is
to drill some holes on the inside area of the L, and placed strategically so the fan would draw some from under the heatsink, and through the 8 chips. This I believe would be a
a good mod.:shadedshu
I do not think drilling a hold for the main chip situated ahead of the main Cpu chip would help anything as at this point it looks to me like the air would be vented out this hole.
being insde the rotation of the fan this hole would blow air under the card, i think.:wtf:
Once again I am looking at a x850xt pe at this point and do not know the exact orientation of the fan on a x1950xt. But they look to be of the same fan placement architecture. perhaps a hole here might help, but I would make it smaller than the other holes so as not to disrupt the airflow impetus.:confused:(flow direction)
My main question is what would be the ideal size of the drillhole to induce airflow, without
making a reverse blow out the hole airflow. It seems that as long as the holes are outside the fan operating diameter they would suck and not blow. So why not have the best of both worlds, direct L-chip air circulation, and improved air mass movement out of case?:rockout:
Well that is my thesis, anyone think I have a decent idea going?:respect:
 
Drilling holes in a gpu is generally a bad idea because there are millions of circuits in the pcb and if you cut one then the gpu is dead.

Also note that any aftermarket cooler even if it circulates air inside the case is still better than the stock cooler and it won't make much of an impact in temps if any.
 
Drilling holes in a gpu is generally a bad idea because there are millions of circuits in the pcb and if you cut one then the gpu is dead.

Also note that any aftermarket cooler even if it circulates air inside the case is still better than the stock cooler and it won't make much of an impact in temps if any.

Provided his case is well ventilated ...
 
Provided his case is well ventilated ...

True but by the looks of his post he knows the ins and outs of air cooling and I assumed he would.
 
Hello, I would remove the heat sink and fan from the video card first of course!!!! The contact tape markings show where everything connects to the heat sink. I'd be drilling from base of heat sink up into the fan case. It seems some of the holes would be going into the copper heat sink. so the drill would mar some of them, but they could easily be straigtn'd back out if so bent. Drill press with stop set here would be way to go.
I looked at the fan housing more closely. On the inside there is a circular inner lip that extends about 2/3ds way into, or covers the outer 2/3 of the fan blades. The outer parts of the fan blade make the most air movement. Perhaps drilling holes , or opening up a part of this diameter on the heat sink side would help.
So did the x850's overheat? Granted the ships are not running anywheres near as fast as 1950. Once again the hole of the 1950 looks much larger. Looking at the x1950 xt there seems to be a grayish heat sink at the intake of the assembly. Looks like a bunch of u's all strung together. I would install the plastic part I mentioned in the first part of install, to be just slightly above this. perhaps even making it a tapered triangle shape.
If it stays at 90 degree angle, the air behind the flat insert would stay dead. Like the air behind a bid rig when you are drafting. The plot thickens...:pimp: Once again I would have to see x1950 to get the general length of taper, and any possible inner copper heat sink interference.
Wait newegg still has good pictures. Actually the heatsink strip (red) is outside the fan housing, and the u parts are just part of the heatsink casting. From looking at it Id just make a extended taper cowling, kind of like a vaccumn cleaner nozzle, or hood cowling type shape, and cover the other chips is foreground with light weight heatsinks. :nutkick: kickass!

The inner drilling of fanhousing is chancy. Id go with the making of a cheap nozzle like intake to shrink the intake opening size first. Then play with the heatsink holes if u are a Brave one:rockout:
Holes in inner housing might make the air blow the wrong way so that I would seriously think twice about modding that area. Maybe two of them one at two o'clock and other at 5 oclock. Once again something you'd have to glue a plug back over for testing etc.

LATEST BRAINSTORM!!!!:laugh: You might also put in a tapered plastic piece on inside base of fan housing,(under fan) making a ramp so that air will exit more forcefully or cleanly, Ie reference 90 degree angle makes a low pressure area, ie cavitating, ie poor air flow. make insert taper cover area from 6 to 9 o'clock under fan. that should also help!!!!!! Remember how some of the ATI cards had a slanted cpu heat sink attachment? Kinda like that angle YEAH!!:respect::rockout::roll::toast:
Once again- 6 to 9 start point maybe 4 to 7 better. I would think though that it being placed outside of copper heat sink area would be better. Maybe cutting away the area leading up to taper would help as well, but looking at the housing , it is possible but would entail cutting away of fan case housing!!! Not a easily fixable MOD!!! Just build insert up to the outer diameter of the fan housing for testing. Clear plastic on x850xt is what I am looking at!!! Obviously you cant see it on opaque white casing of ati x1950!:toast:

So intake nozzle and outtake fan angled insert would be easiest painless and most easily reversible adjustments. Just rubber cement for testing, then glue for real if it helps. You could later cut case away under fan and make a larger area to expell the wind. Once again only the dexterous and Dremelous need apply:shadedshu So get your files out!!
Thank me with beers, and loose fast women please!!!! I hope my chain of thought posting style isn't too much and you can follow what I am proposing.:rockout:
 
Oh woops!! drill the fan heatsink!!! Not the card!!!! :laugh: I tried to revise the first posting to read a little better but it did not work.
 
Added Photos !!!

Hello, my card got here from Retek direct in 3 days from CA!!! WOOT:roll:
Anyways after looking at it for about 3 seconds the final design for intake gelled in my mind.
Grabbing the box it came in, I cut out a strip of CARDBOARD!!! and fashioned the attachment with scissors.

Here is basic size of cardboard measurements:

length
5 13/16 length in long part
4 11/16 inch length in cutout tab area

width
3 1/4 in thick part
2 4/16 in thin area

corner cut out tab is
in 1 1/4 inches lengthwise and
in 15/16 down widthwise

tab is easily cut after the cardboard is bent to fit shape. They go in about 1 1/4 inches


Here are some photos!!

top view
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss306/kmaincountysqre/anim-auct-etc0112.jpg

head on view
http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss306/kmaincountysqre/anim-auct-etc0119.jpg

notice the over hang over the power pots heatsink. Also notice the lessening of the intake
area opening. This should increase airflow rate like that long nozzle that is flat on vaccumn
cleaners.

Will the power pot heatsink that is red make the air pre warmed and make mod useless for more cooling? only one way to tell!!! I will run tests on the card with case fans on, and
cardboard not installed and installed. New computer has fancy schmancy temperature monitoring, for vid card I think. I will put on ati tray tool, or ati tool to monitor temps if not. Please expect update sometime tomorrow as I have to do all the driver uninstallation , reinstallation troubleshooting etc crap. I do not feel like rushing surgery!!!:shadedshu

Also note the cardboard allows you to adjust the angle of the tab, so I will can be set at
different angles like a airplane wingflap. Except the airflow is reversed.

So anyone think it will work? Bets down gentlemen!!!!:pimp:
 
I tried the same ting with my X1800XT, it didn't work enough to change the temps, AC5 and fan control was the better way to go. I also remoevd the VRM sink and groudn down aluminum at each end to allow it to touch the VRM without the termal pad, and AS5 too.

It only gained me a few Mhz at best, or a couple degrees.
 
Wiley Coyote- Super Genius!

Hello,
the verdict is in. Here are the pictures of my ghetto install::pimp:

http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss306/kmaincountysqre/anim-auct-etc0120.jpg

http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss306/kmaincountysqre/anim-auct-etc0125.jpg

I secured the cardboard with clear packaging tape. Don't use silver tape!!! That crap breaks down and leaves crap all over after time. It also un-glues easily. I Have flap set at about a 30 degree angle.

OBSERVATIONS:
When I fired it up without ATI Tray tool, it ran at 27% fan speed. I touched my hand to heat sink and chips in front of them. They were warm. Air flow was barely noticeable.

With cardboard installed i noticed a definite improvement to the touch of my hand in airflow. I could not touch chips to feel them.

I installed ati tray tool and ati tool and loaded Doom3 to test temps, drum roll please!!! Here are the results!!

ATI mem speeds-- 499 / 594. I assume that these are the stock chip and mem speed settings.
There were 3 temperatures displayed in ATI Tool, but I do not know what they represent. Obviously the chip temps, but which banks I don't know. They are displayed below sequentially as they appeared in ATI tool. Temps in Celcius i think.

Cardboard off-------------Cardboard on------Difference
-27% fan Speed----------27% fan speed
___57----------------------- 49----------- -8
___47----------------------- 48---------- +1
___41----------------------- 40---------- -1


-68% fan speed-----------69%fan speed
___51------------------------45------- -6
___40------------------------41------- +1
___37------------------------37------- 0


-100% fan speed----------100% fan speed
___50------------------------43-42(varied) -7
___39------------------------37-38 -1 to -2
___35------------------------35 0

So according to my math at the fan settings, and comparing them to themselves its a 7%
average difference in temps.
Now finally the overall temperature difference from uncovered 27% to 100% fan speed with cover. That was a 15 degree temperature difference. It also rivals the temperatures
that i saw quoted with zalman fan. I took these temperatures while I was playing doom3, and am not sure if this is considered under load.
So!! Suckers!!! 20- 40 dollas for a zalman!!! HAHAHAHAH:laugh: I think that this gives me some overclocking leeway. Yet I do not overclock, as the stress test of ATI tool is
brutal and can easily fry some component on your board in seconds. Think I lost a old card to it, so never again.

Good ol yankee ingenuity with ghetto redneck application!!.:rockout:

I hear that this is the kind of reporting that Green Asshole Global Warming Scientists could not report correctly. Shame shame, all you people who heated up the earth without my ghetto cooler. Al Gore is so angry at you...... but he will forgive you if you buy some Carbon credits!!!!! I put up this emoticon, but it should be yellow smiley kicking the Green asshole one in nuts!!! :nutkick: One Word: FRAUD!!!!:mad: It is cooling not warming!!! Get em Lord Monten. Moncton? :toast: :slap: Download FOI2009. zip if you want to read that. Rules of the Game is my favorite thing in there. Sooooo pink:laugh:

Steevo I doubt you did the same thing. I am sure you filed it down, but you did not
put in the cardboard flap. I wondered too what benefits I would get through the heat tape. Airflow is crappy through stock sized opening so it would not change the temps any at all, or minimally So please, DON'T thank me asshole!!! I guess you work for a fan manufacturing company that's pissed no one will buy your fan anymore!!!
Or you work for Al Gore! Or you are just Po'ed that you didn't think something so easily stupid up yourself!!


:toast: I'll take payment in beer!
 
do you have any mods to make my pentium II run cooler?
 
Yes I do. Dip it in liquid hydrogen, or carbon dioxide, and then smash it with a hammer!!!!
Pentium 2 a furious over clocker chipset I guess. What did you get it to before it overheated?
250 mhtz OMG!!! Buncha comedians on this server!! "Get the beer Scumbag" H Lee Ermey :toast:
 
Well somehow i managed to test the setup just long enough to get the readings. Then when i was zombie hunting in DOOM 3. BAM:banghead: the whole computer crashes!!! WTF!!
Well after reading and reading it seems that my culprit is a overtaxed ATX 450w PSU.
15 amps in the 12 volt supply just wont cut it!!! And when I checked the 12v voltage in the
Bios it was showing like 11.6!!!! :laugh:
Needless to say I have a new 550w PSU with 22 amps on the 12v side. That should be sufficient from what i've read.
Whether or not the card was jumping into the upper 3d clock speed I am not really sure.
I disabled the, cant remember name, when the Ati Tray tool popped up during Xp frontpage
initailization. Some warning about low speed overclocking and max turbo overclocking setting.
So when i get a PSU that can stand the jump to light speed so to speak, I will recheck
temp settings. Still, my theory held. You have to funnel the airflow into a small area to get
it to speed up. Even in hydraulics the diameter of the tube effected the rate of compression.
Tuning a hydraulic brake system before dampeners...... ahh the old days. Ahh the x-cars lol:laugh: ie. failure:banghead:
 
Psu Bunking Out

Well its fer sure my PSU. So I Bought a new one I had to RMA immediately . The card ran
with 550 w 22 A Single Rail, But the PSU caused a hum in my speakers amplifier unplugged. And when I plugged in the sound connector holycrap it sounded like a buzz saw nasty spike
scratchy sound. No audio was in line. But I took a chance and hopped up the resolution and it ran upper res fine. Then shut the sucka of and RMA. Lucky I didn;t fry anything, or crappy PSuwas too much of current draw for the wall socket? Nother wait damn.....
 
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