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To all the recent rig photos, at first I :cry:, but then I :respect:.
 
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If that includes my pics as well, my thoughts about them were :banghead: sometimes, if you did like them somehow, I'd feel like: :toast:
Very much so. :toast:
 
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@Norton - hey dude. Have a question about those TT L32 coolers.

It looks like you have to attach the set-off nuts (the round ones with the bushing) from the back. I've never done that on a board since I've never needed a back plate. Apparently, you don't use the back plate for 2011 but it looks like you still have to secure the nuts from the back.

Do the holes on a 2011 server board go all the way through? I seem to recall that they do but in that case, don't the threads on the screws need to be reversed?

I got 2 delivered today and as I was trying to fit everything together I realized that the screws for attaching the brace don't go all the way through the nuts so they have to be mounted independently.

Assuming that's not an issue, I love the coverage the base will provide over the ihs. It's much bigger than the AC's provide. Also these are so slim that they should give a lot of breathing room between the sockets. So thanks for that tip.
 

Norton

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@Norton - hey dude. Have a question about those TT L32 coolers.

It looks like you have to attach the set-off nuts (the round ones with the bushing) from the back. I've never done that on a board since I've never needed a back plate. Apparently, you don't use the back plate for 2011 but it looks like you still have to secure the nuts from the back.

Do the holes on a 2011 server board go all the way through? I seem to recall that they do but in that case, don't the threads on the screws need to be reversed?

I got 2 delivered today and as I was trying to fit everything together I realized that the screws for attaching the brace don't go all the way through the nuts so they have to be mounted independently.

Assuming that's not an issue, I love the coverage the base will provide over the ihs. It's much bigger than the AC's provide. Also these are so slim that they should give a lot of breathing room between the sockets. So thanks for that tip.


EDIT- nvm see my next post Looks like you just run the screws through the top plate and nuts then mount the whole thing onto the socket. It might be a little tricky since you will essentially be double nutting the screw- suggest running everything down evenly and close to tight before the final tightening step. :oops:

This is the pick from the manual:

 
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Norton

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Yeah, thanks. I looked at that but apparently you're supposed to attach the nuts from the back.

http://www.thermaltake.com/db/suppo...AL14RE-A_201ccc4aeb6941f6ba727b82450de4e6.pdf

The longest screws don't go all the way through the nuts. They do if you only put the screw into the nut, but if you add the bracket, they don't go all the way through.,


Ahhh, I see now- forget my previous post :oops: Check out the install here:

http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/69...on-interference-cpu-cooler-review/index4.html

The longer/thicker screws go through the backside of the board, the nuts screw onto those, the top plate is attached with the black screws...

Maybe @sneekypeet can stop by with his feedback ;)
 
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OK. That explains the countersinking in the nuts. there's one size hole at the bottom of the nuts but the top is countersunk with a different set of threads for a much thicker screw.

Thanks.
 

Norton

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OK. That explains the countersinking in the nuts. there's one size hole at the bottom of the nuts but the top is countersunk with a different set of threads for a much thicker screw.

Thanks.

A stud with a built-in spacer and a nut would have made it all much easier :rolleyes:

This is in russian but it shows the nuts installed on a 2011 socket...

http://www.3dnews.ru/825822
 
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Thanks. So it looks like the countersink goes on the motherboard and wider screws secure it from the back. Then shorter, thinner screws attach the bracket from the top.

That's just weird. Good think I have this on a test bench and don't have to actually remove all the standoff screws because that would be a serious pain in the ass.

They need to fix that.
 

theonedub

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The heatsink I am using touches one of the chokes near the motherboard socket. Before I tightened the sink I could get a sheet of paper between them, but after its tight. I know its not ideal, but I'd like your guys' opinion- how concerning is this:



Everything is running fine and temps are within acceptable ranges on the CPU, btw.
 
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I think you'll be OK, as long as there is no excessive pressure put on that choke. Not ideal, but IMO safe to use. I'd be more concerned of the possibility the choke might prevent the cooler pressing evenly against the CPU's surface, however. A better solution would probably be to install a heatpipe cooler, which will provide more clearance. ;)
 
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I was thinking that if that is a ledge bearing down on the component, why not take a dremel or even a coarse file and just file it down? A dremel with a sanding bit, either sandpaper or abrasive stone, should make short work of it.

Another idea is some tin snips or a sheet metal nibbler. You could cut it on either side and then just bend it out of the way.

edit: sorry, just realized this is supposed to go in the team thread. Maybe we do need a thread for resolving hardware issues.
 

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It doesn't look like there's enough of a lip to remove before getting into the fins, but perhaps you can just remove some of the bottom surface to make a divot in it so it doesn't hit the choke. I'd be worried that any vibrations from the fan on the heatsink might start to weaken the solder joints over time, given that they are already being pushed on by the heatsink.
 
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I didn't mean to grind from the side, but the bottom. Or alternatively, just snip the ledge in 2 places around the component and then bend it out of the way. It doesn't look like there are any fins in the immediate area of the ledge but I don't know what's behind there.
 

theonedub

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There are actually heatpipes that run in that thin plate (flattened ones, much like ones out of a laptop), which makes me not want to modify it. The possible vibration @t_ski mentioned worries me a little bit, but the heatsink is really clamped down on there. Temps are looking OK given the chassis, I'll stew on it some more and make a decision soon.

Thanks for all the input :toast:
 
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Can it be turned 90 degrees to clear it?
 

theonedub

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No, it's completely symmetrical.
 
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What sort of cooler is that? I don't think I've ever seen anything like it.
 

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What sort of cooler is that? I don't think I've ever seen anything like it.

Pretty much looks like a 1U or 2U server CPU cooler from the shot that @theonedub took. Is that correct Dub?
 

theonedub

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Its a Phanteks LP unit I got from SP a long while ago. I think it conforms to 1U height. I've been running it and it doesn't seem to mind, so I may just leave it be until I have to take a look at it :laugh:
 
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Seriously. @twilyth has it. Looks like you would only need about a mm off the bottom edge, to clear that choke, and rest easy.

A small file, ten minutes, done!

Good luck!
;)
 
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anyone got an extra motherboard for a 2500k system they don't need?
 
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If all I had was a 2500k, I'd offer it up instead of looking for a motherboard to get the system up and running.
 
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