How to make a waterproof wire splice?

[AsRock]

The liquid electric tape is not a solution. While it is a polymer, it doesn't like wide temperature shifts, and eventually cracks.

The heat shrink tubing is one solution, but you need to take a few precautions. Do each wire individually, do an in-line wire splice, leave 2-3" extra (minimum) on each side of the splices, and heat shrink the wire bundle separate. This method makes a section that still has some flexibility, but is water resistant,

Why not just get connectors that are designed to be water proof? Like these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Waterproof-Wire-Connectors-5-Pack-30-062/100564891#.UYPVtUrc5Hg Or maybe these: http://www.amazon.com/Products-62125-Waterproof-Connectors-25-Pack/dp/B000BW0YFS (home depot and amazon links respectively)


Nail polish is too brittle.

Glue gun glue is a redneck solution. It gets the job done, but it isn't exactly going to be an aesthetically pleasing solution.

As long as the water and heat is not constant it should be fine, i know i only used it on RC cars but the ESC get really hot and water around them for a short while.

How to water proof ANY heat sinked ESC - YouTube

 

[Sasqui]

As long as the water and heat is not constant it should be fine, i know i only used it on RC cars but the ESC get really hot and water around them for a short while.

How to water proof ANY heat sinked ESC - YouTube

That's the stuff!

 

[Arctucas]

Seriously, the heat-shrink butt splices I linked to are what you need.

You can usually buy 3-5 for about $5.

All you need is a crimp tool and a hair dryer.

I have used these in automotive applications both in the engine compartment where temperatures get very high, as well as under vehicles where they were exposed to water, salt, road grime, etc.

I never had one fail.

 

[Sasqui]

Here's the float with it's pigtail and wire I'm attaching it to. The wire goes to black Molex shunt.

The challenge: Keep the pigtail waterproof.

Close-up of the pigtail and wire I'm attaching:

I LOVE in-line spell check!!!

 

[de.das.dude]

i would heatshirnk and fill it with epoxy. and then heat the shrink on.

try to solder them end to end. un-twine the wires a bit, mesh them in end to end and then twist them again..

dont forget to put the heatshrink in first #LFMF

 

[Sasqui]

dont forget to put the heatshrink in first #LFMF

That's the hardest part, LOL!

 

[de.das.dude]

why is it hard.. just slide it to somewhere where the heat cant get it.

 

[Sasqui]

why is it hard..

Remembering to to put the heashrink on BEFORE soldering!

 

[de.das.dude]

lol. i learnt that trhough fail when sleeving some fans. fortunately fan connector pins are easy to disassemble.

 

[Sasqui]

lol. i learnt that trhough fail

I'ts the best way to learn, but I still find myself doing it

BTW, the pigtail with 5 layers of shrinkwrap and doused with liquid tape is looking pretty good. Hope to post a pic this evening.

One other thing I learned... I always thought the red wire was +12v, when in fact, the red wire is +5v and the YELLOW wire is +12v. Glad I double checked!!!

 

[de.das.dude]

yes its weird. i used to think the red was 12v too but found out after i go a multimeter.

 

[Frederik S]

The heavy duty heat shrink with glue used for outdoor electrical appliances should do the trick.

 

[Arctucas]

The heavy duty heat shrink with glue used for outdoor electrical appliances should do the trick.

Like what is in the splices I mentioned...

 

[Clexxy]

[RE: HOT-GLUE] - Be Advised -

Even though it has been almost 10 years since the start this thread, I managed to arrive here as the search engine I utilized returned this as a "Top Pick." I fully assume that the original poster has come to a working solution for this, but for future adventurers to this thread I truly feel it is best to add a little knowledge.

While hot-glue seems to be, by all account, hydrophobic; extended exposure of the glue to water (either a single stretch or repeated exposure) will severely degrade its adhesive properties, as well as its "solid" form. Before to long, the glue will start to congeal (turn into a gel-like goop). This can be obviously turn hazardous and present a fire/bodily danger.

Additionally, the introduction of oil-base water-repellents, for example; mineral oil, Vaseline, WD-40, to the glue once it has cured and hardened, will intensify and expedite the glues adherence away from the materials you may be attempting to keep separate of the water and other elements.

If someone was to submerge a product that has been affixed and "sealed" by using hot-glue, the overall catastrophic failure of the project would be fairly quickly (a matter of days at the most considering constant exposure).

My recommendation is to start with all materials clean and free of dust and oils, then adhere pure silicone sealant, allowing time for the full cureation before progressing to environmental exposure. Be sure to check the label such that additional native elements in the environment you plan to introduce your project to, will not interfere with silicone sealant.

I hope this is helpful to any future visitors of this thread and note that my intention was not to point fingers at a 10 year old post, but to provide tips and add a cautionary recommendation to those who may land here.

 

[ste2425]

[RE: HOT-GLUE] - Be Advised -

Even though it has been almost 10 years since the start this thread, I managed to arrive here as the search engine I utilized returned this as a "Top Pick." I fully assume that the original poster has come to a working solution for this, but for future adventurers to this thread I truly feel it is best to add a little knowledge.

While hot-glue seems to be, by all account, hydrophobic; extended exposure of the glue to water (either a single stretch or repeated exposure) will severely degrade its adhesive properties, as well as its "solid" form. Before to long, the glue will start to congeal (turn into a gel-like goop). This can be obviously turn hazardous and present a fire/bodily danger.

Additionally, the introduction of oil-base water-repellents, for example; mineral oil, Vaseline, WD-40, to the glue once it has cured and hardened, will intensify and expedite the glues adherence away from the materials you may be attempting to keep separate of the water and other elements.

If someone was to submerge a product that has been affixed and "sealed" by using hot-glue, the overall catastrophic failure of the project would be fairly quickly (a matter of days at the most considering constant exposure).

My recommendation is to start with all materials clean and free of dust and oils, then adhere pure silicone sealant, allowing time for the full cureation before progressing to environmental exposure. Be sure to check the label such that additional native elements in the environment you plan to introduce your project to, will not interfere with silicone sealant.

I hope this is helpful to any future visitors of this thread and note that my intention was not to point fingers at a 10 year old post, but to provide tips and add a cautionary recommendation to those who may land here.

Thats why i use instant gasket when doing such work of the cars wiring Loom. Solder, instant gasket with heat-shrink over the top.

 

[ne6togadno]

i know i am late but for next time you need something like this
http://www.molex.com/molex/products/group?channel=PRODUCTS&key=sealed_connectors

or any of those
https://www.google.com/search?q=ip6...ygagL&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1920&bih=1079&dpr=1

 

[ste2425]

i know i am late but for next time you need something like this
http://www.molex.com/molex/products/group?channel=PRODUCTS&key=sealed_connectors

or any of those
https://www.google.com/search?q=ip67 connector&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=88fQVOvjDcj8UMiygagL&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1920&bih=1079&dpr=1

Wish i new about that website when having to replace half the Megane's wiring loom thanks to water ingress.

 

[brandonwh64]

Even though it has been almost 10 years since the start this thread.......

2013-2015 = 10 years...

 

[eidairaman1]

Electronic grade silicone sealant/adhesive over shrink tube

 

[ne6togadno]

Wish i new about that website when having to replace half the Megane's wiring loom thanks to water ingress.

there are also other companies that offer ip67 solutions if nothing from molex can fit your needs - harting for example
poblem is that most of ip67 solutions is industry oriented and often require expencieve tooling to assemble em.

 

[Schmuckley]

several layers of LET
I used it on my washing machine.

 

[Mussels]

If you're telstra (the company in charge of australian phone lines) you just twist em together and duct tape them inside an empty coke bottle.

 

[eidairaman1]

If you're telstra (the company in charge of australian phone lines) you just twist em together and duct tape them inside an empty coke bottle.

3m scotchlocks lol

 

[Steevo]

Here's the situation. I'm building a small hydroponic garden setup and have a float switch to shut a DCC-1 pump off if the water lever gets low. This is to prevent the pump from running dry and destroying it.

The float switch was taken off a burnt out sump pump and the wire connectng is only about 1' long. It's got 3x 14 or 16 gage conductors (one conductor is a ground), and a thick jacket. I plan to connect a long pair of 20 gage wires to it, which will go to two molex connectors (male and female) where the pump and 12v supply will be housed.

How would I connect the float switch wires to the 20 gage wires and create a waterproof seal? I have plenty of heatshrink tubing (all sorts of sizes), but that alone won't be waterproof.

And... I plan on growing spinach and lettuce, really!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IEFOCRK/?tag=tec06d-20

I use these. Napa has them too.

 

[Arctucas]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IEFOCRK/?tag=tec06d-20

I use these. Napa has them too.

Like I said; http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/how-to-make-a-waterproof-wire-splice.183458/#post-2895551

Jeez...

@Clexxy,

I have some of the splices that I liked to over 18 years old under my 4x4, and after all those years of salt, snow, rain, mud, etc. they are still holding up.

Just sayin'...