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EVGA 1080 CLASSIFIED - DETAILED PCB PICTURES (17 PHASE VRM - 14+3)

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Nicholas Peyton

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Sep 18, 2016
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Hi guys,

Took my card apart tonight (EVGA 1080 Classified).

Now that I've actually had it apart and rebuild it my confidence has grown 100 fold.

I'd like to start by learning how to do a small power mod (nothing dangerous or intrusive) -- just something to help my confidence grow a bit.

Not even looking for a massive performance gain; this is more about the "learning" aspect.

Even if I can read an extra 20-30w difference in HWINFO64 after mod is complete I'd be happy I'd achieved something and grew my knowledge.

When my card gets a bit older I'd be more willing to try more risky ventures.

I truly look forward to the day I do my first LN2 bench; but everyone starts at the beginning. :)

I have many more pictures as detailed as these.

There are virtually NO 1080 Classified PCB pictures floating around anywhere (they are very rare/hard to find)

So here you go: (PM me or request on thread for more pics and I shall happily post)

Enjoy :)

P.S. can anyone with experience please mark on the photo exactly where I need to apply the power mod?




17 phase VRM (14 +3)

1d4a9964_20161123_201245.jpeg


8d8fb34f_20161123_203339_001.jpeg



P.S. - reason for taking these: to supply EK with measurements for EK_Grega to forward to their R&D department at EK to check compatibility with older Classified blocks.

If I get it all working I plan to write-up a comprehsive 'how I did it' for everyones benefit here, on overclock.net and also on the EVGA forums.

Sincerely hope this is of use to classified owners amongst you :)

Anyway watch this space :)

Nick Peyton
 
This will be fun to watch, Thanks!
 
dont short it out or knock a printed circuit off
 
So, eta to brick status? :p
 
eidairaman1 said:
Attention New Members- DO NOT FLASH YOUR FRIGGIN GPU BIOS- it will lead to a fancy expensive paper weight!
Click to expand...

"Unless you have EVGA dual BIOS and have done your research" /\ /\ :)



Come on guys; no need for those comments lol. -- remember; "shy boys don't get sweets".

If you don't ask; you won't learn.

YES -- I have watched the video tutorial but the video does not "zoom" in enough to see exactly how it is done.

I am doing the sensible thing and checking first :)

I know its the top one (long whiter coloured one) -- but I can't see where the 'metal contacts' begin and end on each side. (Must be missing something) .... the bottom picture "arrow" was merely to illustrate that point.

I do not intend to try the bottom resistor. Just need a a steer in the right direction :-)
 
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Are you trying to mod the power limit by messing with the shunt?
 
Nicholas Peyton said:
"Unless you have EVGA dual BIOS and have done your research" /\ /\ :)



Come on guys; no need for those comments lol. -- remember; "shy boys don't get sweets".

If you don't ask; you won't learn.

YES -- I have watched the video tutorial but the video does not "zoom" in enough to see exactly how it is done.

I am doing the sensible thing and checking first :)

I know its the top one (long whiter coloured one) -- but I can't see where the 'metal contacts' begin and end on each side. (Must be missing something) .... the bottom picture "arrow" was merely to illustrate that point.

I do not intend to try the bottom resistor. Just need a a steer in the right direction :)
Click to expand...

I am rooting for you to succeed here.
Unlike KINGPIN, I'm guessing you don't have a storeroom full of free EVGA GPUs, PSUs, and Chipsets to draw from if something breaks.
 
Looks like the 780/980 classy pcb. There are some minor differences but its the same starting pcb. It's kinda hilarious that evga have been using that same pcb for how long now...

*Btw are you asking about the power limit mod? If so it would be the TI chip between the two R47's or that's the closest looking layout.
 
thesmokingman said:
Looks like the 780/980 classy pcb. There are some minor differences but its the same starting pcb. It's kinda hilarious that evga have been using that same pcb for how long now...
Click to expand...

If it makes it easier to find a compatible block I'm all for it :-)
 
Aha, it is that trio. Check it out, between the R47's, caps 263/271/278. Then compare that to the guide below.

ina3221_1.jpg
 
Nicholas Peyton said:
If it makes it easier to find a compatible block I'm all for it :)
Click to expand...

It'll probably use the exact same block as they have been doing for two generations now. Though they'll probably have to cover their bases first before as usual.
 
thesmokingman said:
Aha, it is that trio. Check it out, between the R47's, caps 263/271/278. Then compare that to the guide below.
Click to expand...

Okay I can see the corresponding numbers on my picture against yours, but what am I connecting to what?

In the video I watched they simply coloured the top of the resistor with liquid metal (so extra current flowed over it) reducing how much current was calculated/detected). However I heard liquid metal dissolves solder so I'd probably either prefer to use a thick pencil (for a very small boost) or a conductive trace pen?

Anyway its 7am here; need to grab some sleep.. i'll be back up in a few hours....

good night :-)
 
Nicholas Peyton said:
Okay I can see the corresponding numbers on my picture against yours, but what am I connecting to what?

In the video I watched they simply coloured the top of the resistor with liquid metal (so extra current flowed over it) reducing how much current was calculated/detected). However I heard liquid metal dissolves solder so I'd probably either prefer to use a thick pencil (for a very small boost) or a conductive trace pen?

Anyway its 7am here; need to grab some sleep.. i'll be back up in a few hours....

good night :)
Click to expand...

First you watched a video for the wrong process. That CLU trick doesn't work on the classy, only reference based cards and it doesn't actually work that well. You need to use the proper mod as how Kingpin shows on xevs or his actual site. Ya need to get the 10ohm smd resistors and mount them onto the caps 263/271/278. When I did it on my Titan, I glued them on using very little crazy glue onto the the caps, then I used CLU to make the connections. When I want to remove the R's they are easy to twist off, a lil acetone and voila no traces left behind. The key is that you don't use much CLU to make the connection. I used CLU because I didn't want to solder as that is a pain in the ass to remove. Conductive paint or pens, didn't work very well for me, hence the CLU.

xDevs.com | Extreme OC modifications for EVGA GeForce GTX 1080/1070 FE

**Btw I have to ask, are you hitting the power limit on the classy?? There should be the LN2 bios for this purpose.
 
Might be worth visiting the Kingpin overclocking site linked to the Kingpin cards. FWIW, I don't think the power is the issue, it's the voltage required. Moar powah will require more volts and that's been the rub since Maxwell.
Honestly bud, visit the Kingpin forums, they have a lot of time and respect for guys willing to hard mod expensive hardware.
Good luck!
 
looks like the card uses the IR3567B voltage controller. You might be able to use Afterburner to send it a few I2C commands to double the power limit by changing the current scale. It should also be possible to use I2C to raise the voltage however I've never tried to do that so I'm not sure how that works.

As for shorting the shunts. The long white components with R002 on them are 2mohm shunts and those are what you want to short to lift the power limit however I suspect that with this type of shunt you might end up with the resistance dropping too low and hitting the Nvidia's safety crap which will lock the card to 139MHz core clock. I think the I2C option is a better idea however I've only every done that on AMD card so I have no idea how it would be done on an Nvidia.
 
buildzoid said:
looks like the card uses the IR3567B voltage controller. You might be able to use Afterburner to send it a few I2C commands to double the power limit by changing the current scale. It should also be possible to use I2C to raise the voltage however I've never tried to do that so I'm not sure how that works.

As for shorting the shunts. The long white components with R002 on them are 2mohm shunts and those are what you want to short to lift the power limit however I suspect that with this type of shunt you might end up with the resistance dropping too low and hitting the Nvidia's safety crap which will lock the card to 139MHz core clock. I think the I2C option is a better idea however I've only every done that on AMD card so I have no idea how it would be done on an Nvidia.
Click to expand...

There is already a 1080 Classified Voltage controller came out. I specificially asked Kingpin himself if we could get an update -- over at Kingpincooling.com as he browses the forums over there daily. (and preyed he'd reply and he did). 2 days later we had an updated 1080 classified controller.

It allows core and memory voltage control :) The problem is being unable to "lock" the frequency. Even with the voltage "locked" at 1.15v GPU BOOST 3.0 will make the frequency jump about which is making it unstable.

My card is going under water soon so I may be luckier then. However any extra voltage applied to pascal has to be done very carefully, at the right time and in the right place. There is a place for it but it has to be skilfully implemented. :)

Not sure how I'd use it to raise the power limit though ? Or how I'd *make* MSI AB do it?

Anyway how do I "short" the R002 resistor? (the long white one).. on the bottom *arrow* I can see the metal on either side... but I don't see where R002 is actually connecting (the metal contacts) which is the point I was trying to make :-) :-)
 
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Nicholas Peyton said:
There is already a 1080 Classified Voltage controller came out. I specificially asked Kingpin himself if we could get an update -- over at Kingpincooling.com as he browses the forums over there daily. (and preyed he'd reply and he did). 2 days later we had an updated 1080 classified controller.

It allows core and memory voltage control :) The problem is being unable to "lock" the frequency. Even with the voltage "locked" at 1.15v GPU BOOST 3.0 will make the frequency jump about which is making it unstable.

My card is going under water soon so I may be luckier then. However any extra voltage applied to pascal has to be done very carefully, at the right time and in the right place. There is a place for it but it has to be skilfully implemented. :)

Not sure how I'd use it to raise the power limit though ? Or how I'd *make* MSI AB do it?
Click to expand...

Wait! Underwater? I thought you were going LN2!
 
ARE THESE CAPS REALLY NEEDED IN THE THREAD TITLE?
 
P4-630 said:
ARE THESE CAPS REALLY NEEDED IN THE THREAD TITLE?
Click to expand...

my apologies



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ungari said:
Wait! Underwater? I thought you were going LN2!
Click to expand...


Yes, but not straight away... I need to get the hang of doing these basic mods first

if I can do the mods and confirm they're working (without pushing card too hard) I can then use that knowledge to begin prep for my first ever LN2 adventure/
 
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