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Computer Case front panel power switch connector

@Bill_Bright : Not looking to drag this out any further but is there any chance that a case manufacturer has terminated the other end on a circuit board that ties together the other items headers, sound, usb, ect.. that must maintain polarity as indicated?

Edit: not just a stand alone momentary switch.
 
LFaWolf said:
No short anywhere else, and no I did not have the pin out wrong.



I would like to ask the same thing, why would connecting the 2 pins with a screwdriver be able to turn the machine on? The motherboard in question is a ASRock Fatal1ty 990FX Killer.
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its just a quick bump to short the +/- that activates the PSU on that then powers the motherboard and all and to turn off just bump short the 2 pins again

thing is if your able to bump start the system with the screwdriver way with out issue on the test bed and you can in the case as well its got to be the case switch assembly . [switch and wire] cause then everything behind that is working properly , right ?

see if your case manufacture has a parts dept. and get a direct replacement or order a aftermarket for like 2-5 bucks to test and use

https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Description=computer power button&Submit=ENE


if nothing else if I dot have a junk case to grab a switch out of and don't got a order to put one in with it I just keep bump starting with my knife or paperclip or screwdriver .


I dot guess you said if it was in the case with the switch not working were you able to pop start it with the screwdriver ?
 
jsfitz54 said:
@Bill_Bright : Not looking to drag this out any further but is there any chance that a case manufacturer has terminated the other end on a circuit board that ties together the other items headers, sound, usb, ect.. that must maintain polarity as indicated?

Edit: not just a stand alone momentary switch.
Click to expand...
Sure - for "OEM" cases used by computer makers, anything can happen. As I noted back in post #12, it is not uncommon for factory made computer makers to use "proprietary" modifications for their own computers. Dell, HP, Acer and others have done this for years, they claim to make things cheaper but the result is always fewer choices for consumers and typically higher prices for us too - because that forces us to buy from them. So cheaper for them, but more expensive for us. This is exactly way Apple Macs have notoriously been more expensive - all parts must come from Apple.

But for computer components we (as home builders, hobbyists, and custom PC builders) buy through Newegg, Amazon, Best Buy, etc. we use for our own builds - where we mix and match brands, they MUST adhere to industry standards (whether those standards are written, or just verbal agreements). Otherwise we would not be able to put an ASUS motherboard in a Fractal Design case with a Seasonic power supply, Samsung SSD, WD hard drive, Corsair RAM, Sony Blu-ray player, Microsoft keyboard, BenQ monitor, and MSI graphics card and expect all the voltages, connectors, protocols, and screw mounting holes to align and fit. We would be forced to buy the same brand for everything.
 
Bill_Bright said:
Sure - for "OEM" cases used by computer makers, anything can happen. As I noted back in post #12, it is not uncommon for factory made computer makers to use "proprietary" modifications for their own computers. Dell, HP, Acer and others have done this for years, they claim to make things cheaper but the result is always fewer choices for consumers and typically higher prices for us too - because that forces us to buy from them. So cheaper for them, but more expensive for us. This is exactly way Apple Macs have notoriously been more expensive - all parts must come from Apple.

But for computer components we (as home builders, hobbyists, and custom PC builders) buy through Newegg, Amazon, Best Buy, etc. we use for our own builds - where we mix and match brands, they MUST adhere to industry standards (whether those standards are written, or just verbal agreements). Otherwise we would not be able to put an ASUS motherboard in a Fractal Design case with a Seasonic power supply, Samsung SSD, WD hard drive, Corsair RAM, Sony Blu-ray player, Microsoft keyboard, BenQ monitor, and MSI graphics card and expect all the voltages, connectors, protocols, and screw mounting holes to align and fit. We would be forced to buy the same brand for everything.
Click to expand...

pretty much sums that up . like a lot of guys want to upgrade the psu in a hp /dell/acer /ect.. and find its not going to fly or needs to dig up a adaptor to go from there prebuilt proprietary to ATX standard
 
It all sounds like a lot of fluff to me. If makers had no reason to label polarity on power switches or the motherboard power switch pins, they wouldn't. Someone had to see a reason for it long ago, and case makers are using it. I don't see how any arguments apply when the OP proved that by following the polarity offered fixed his problem. If the switch was broken and polarity was not needed, the switch would not work in any orientation, which is not what the case is.
 
sneekypeet said:
If makers had no reason to label polarity on power switches or the motherboard power switch pins, they wouldn't.
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I already gave a reason - to save $ on unnecessary, warranty/tech support calls from people asking, "Which way does it go?"

The Laws of Physics (which includes how electrons flow through conductors) trump everything else here. That means something else came into play with the OP's scenario. Perhaps the wrong pin was used one way, then corrected when swapped. Or a lead's connector had a bad crimp or wire that "broke" contact one way, then "made" contact when moved around. I don't know. What I do know is if polarity must be observed, then something non-standard and proprietary is being used in the motherboard, case or both that does not conform to accepted ATX Form Factor industry standards.
 
Bill_Bright said:
I already gave a reason - to save $ on unnecessary, warranty/tech support calls from people asking, "Which way does it go?"

The Laws of Physics (which includes how electrons flow through conductors) trump everything else here. That means something else came into play with the OP's scenario. Perhaps the wrong pin was used one way, then corrected when swapped. Or a lead's connector had a bad crimp or wire that "broke" contact one way, then "made" contact when moved around. I don't know. What I do know is if polarity must be observed, then something non-standard and proprietary is being used in the motherboard, case or both that does not conform to accepted ATX Form Factor industry standards.
Click to expand...

Yeah what happened is he bought a case where polarity matters. If I have seen it, and jboyd knows it to be true, and the OP proved it too, why is it so hard to wrap your head around the fact that it is true? Just because you never held a trillion dollars in your hand does not mean it does not exist! Same goes for this. Whether they added a resistor diode (I misspoke), or tied the polarity into other I/O features, it makes no difference. The fact is, even if in rare instances, power switch polarity can matter. Accept it as truth as it has been seen in the wild!
 
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sneekypeet said:
Yeah what happened is he bought a case where polarity matters. If I have seen it, and jboyd knows it to be true, and the OP proved it too, why is it so hard to wrap your head around the fact that it is true? Just because you never held a trillion dollars in your hand does not mean it does not exist! Same goes for this. Whether they added a resistor, or tied the polarity into other I/O features, it makes no difference. The fact is, even if in rare instances, power switch polarity can matter. Accept it as truth as it has been seen in the wild!
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You should edit out the added resistor part etc... it is very very wrong electric wise. People will laugh who understand.

Even considering polarity. I am with Bill on this one. I have said why it could be like that. Passive parts are passive, active are active.

It is marked because of an option running it from remote gpio driven 3rd parity active device.

In most atx cases passive solution is used and it doesn't care unless it is defective.

Those are electronics and the the schematic is kindergarten level for this implementation for LPC controller startup. Mobo or not but that part decides rules... you are totally going OT with this one.
 
Well I downloaded the atx specifications and not one part covers that polarity can not matter, and it has mattered for me and others in the past, or this thread and comments in it would not be here. Again, just because you have not used one of the rare cases where it matters does not mean it can't be true. Using an excuse like calls to support for the reason to label them is horse pucky!

If you are willing to call three members essentially liars, why has no credible proof been posted of it being only your way and not the way some of us have already seen as reality?
 
FTR, I am not and did not calling anyone liars. It is you who refuses to accept how that circuit or the Laws of Physics work. And "resistor"? Ummm, okay. :rolleyes:

Have a good day.
 
sneekypeet said:
Only in that thread the OP has a case that does not work, where our OP has a chassis that does work. How does that apply exactly?
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Did you read it? It has two.


It is so wrong.

Does anyone has the idea in order to power up the thing with a smart control ie polarity matters it needs to be powered up. But you power up the part the delivers power. :kookoo: It has no stand by power at all. It is a passive part.

Cold joints often end up being a semiconductor and act like diodes, so it is explainable.

Gosh. This is wild. Didn't expect it from here. Maybe too tough, yea... but believing in just for the sake of it is also wrong. Switch is a switch.
 
what a load of fuss and nonsense about nothing.. :)

its all pretty simple.. two pins on the motherboard need to be momentarily bridged to boot up the PC.. end of story..

trog
 
Someone needs to approach Corsair and find out why the 400R Case is acting this way.
Defective part or some other explanation, such as a circuit board being used.
If a screwdriver or paperclip short worked on the test bench, then it is not a motherboard issue.
 
Bill_Bright said:
FTR, I am not and did not calling anyone liars. It is you who refuses to accept how that circuit or the Laws of Physics work. And "resistor"? Ummm, okay. :rolleyes:

Have a good day.
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This information is all in the OP. You call a switch stupid, as in it works or it doesn't, yet this is not what happened. You then complain it is out of spec if it indeed needs polarity, and now its physics? You can't have it both ways man.

Commons sense says two things in this thread. If connected wrong and it don't work, there is a possibility of a bad switch. When connected properly, the switch works as intended, so the switch is not bad. All we are left with is that polarity must matter in some instances.
 
Wow.
sneekypeet said:
You call a switch stupid, as in it works or it doesn't
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No I didn't. In fact, I said the switch could be bad in my first post. In later posts I said it cold be the connector or wire within the lead.
sneekypeet said:
You then complain it is out of spec if it indeed needs polarity, and now its physics? You can't have it both ways man.
Click to expand...
Of course its physics. Contrary to what some folks may believe, it is not magic. It may work in mysterious ways to some, but its not magic. Electrons have mass. They comply with the Laws of Physics.

Sorry, SP, but it is not me who thinks it could be both ways (except, as I noted, with factory made proprietary stuff).

Now I tried to end this in my last post but you persist in continuing the argument. I'm heading out to the bike trails and hope to get 35 - 40 miles in, the longest ride of the season so far. I will have a good day (baring any crashes or flats) so I am done here.

Once again, I hope you have a good day too.
 
the front panel switch is or should be just like touching two wires together.. there should not be any polarity involved..

trog
 
sneekypeet said:
All we are left with is that polarity must matter in some instances.
Click to expand...

It cannot be a passive or "dumb" switch like a screwdriver or paperclip.
There has to be some proprietary magic involved in The Corsair 400R case. Like a circuit board that is tied to other items that need polarity maintained.

If the OP bought a new stand alone switch and connected it to the motherboard polarity would not matter.
 
jsfitz54 said:
If the OP bought a new stand alone switch and connected it to the motherboard polarity would not matter.
Click to expand...

I agree that another switch would not need polarity, as what is sold typically is a dumb switch.
However, with what the OP has explained, this is not what is in his chassis.
 
look up '' Momentary Switch '' this is what your using here as your pc case switch - you push it in and it shorts the +/- Momentary and that activates the PSU the 2 pins trace back to the 24 pin under the psu ''on'' pin out then if you push it in when on for a longer time that signals off

why if your black screening and cant shutdown normal you hold the case switch in for a brief time and the computer shuts down , but all it takes is a instant push to activate / turn on



pin 16 here
https://www.lifewire.com/atx-24-pin-12v-power-supply-pinout-2624578

[opinion on how I understand it ]

same with a screwdriver bump start you momentary short to start and can turn off by holding on it a bit longer
 
i think maybe the issue is hanging up on the word "polarity", the pins are marked for it yes, i cant say (as im not an electrician) if they are polar (but im inclined to believe what others are saying as i see no reason they would lie), but i can say installing them in an unmatched manner, can cause the "switch" to not function. again im no electrician, but this seems to be an "effect" from not following the pin guide, which tells me this polar labeling isnt simply to cut down on call center costs, and is to make sure you install the header functions correctly. whether there is a different component in the + or - side of the plug, or if there is nothing in one of them, i cant say, but all i know is that in more than a couple situations, installing them "willy nilly" causes improper function of the power/reset switches. It can cause a couple things iirc, inability to shut down , inability to power on, even inability to sleep a PC , iirc this happened to my daughters PC, no HDD activity light function , etc. I dont know if any damage comes from installing them wrong (ive never experienced any), but i do know it matters , as ive experienced it 1st hand.

but again, i feel like this is a miscommunication or wording issue here, & not so much a "he's wrong & he's right " situation. if that makes sense
 
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Seems a few people put too small panties on in the morning, it's a case switch, not rocket surgery or brain science :D
 
Afaik, there are no industry standards when it comes this, there is no verbal agreement or any other made up standards for wiring from the front panel to the motherboard. The power pinouts and wiring are as they are for one reason only, for compatibility with case design. The pins could be on the top row or bottom row, as long as the motherboard maker documents which pins the power button needs to be plugged into. Polarity is used for various reasons that can differ from one manufacturer to another, one being is if the switch has lighting or is used as a combination power and reset, it might need that wire plugged into a common ground so there is no feedback voltage. Corrosion, dirt or any other foreign material can cause the switch to act goofy or act like a diode is built into it so that it isnt up to Bill's faux standards so you can "take the manufacturer to court".
 
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