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Requesting Bios for EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 BLACK EDITION GAMING.

xlegacygt

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Hello everyone, I just joined the forum and I hope I'm posting in the right place.

I recently bought HP Obelisk 875-0024 and it comes with a RTX2080 blower style by HP, its loud and the temperatures are very high.

This card does not have a binned chip, it has a "B" chip with device ID: 10DE-1E82.

I'm looking to swap this blower style and replace it with the "EVGA HYBRID Kit" which fits reference designs.

The EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 BLACK EDITION also contains a "B" chip but the bios hasn't been uploaded to the database yet.

Can someone with this card please assist me and possibly share the bios?

Thank you for any help!
 
Check hp first, device and subsystem ids tend to be different between manufacturers.

Why do you need a bios when the evga cooler fits stock cards across the board?

If the cooler plugs right into the cards fan jack it will run just fine.

There is no bios mods either.

Too new a product.
 
What do you mean? I'm seeking a bios for a EVGA card to replace the HP bios.

See my post above, don't do it.

Check hp for a newer bios for the card in question.
 
Not at all, I'm getting it to drop my high temps when running 1440P. The blower style is loud and temps get to 83c-85c.

Well then you can use the cooler without rgb. I just explained above why going from hp bios to evga bios wont work.

Heres a solution that don't require a bios swap either.

https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/products/cooling/vga.html

As a reminder, temperature depends on case airflow and Ambient Temperature the pc resides in.

It only makes a pc hotter if the airflow is crap and you are running it in hot air to begin with.
 
Well then you can use the cooler without rgb. I just explained above why going from hp bios to evga bios wont work.

Heres a solution that don't require a bios swap either.

https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/products/cooling/vga.html
From what I understand:
10DE 1E87- "A" chip.
10DE 1E82- "B" chip.

What all does the "Subsystem ID" do? Does it have to match?

I've flashed a Zotac bios that had device ID 10DE 1E82 (same as mine) but the Subsystem ID was different and it worked.

Thank you for the suggestion on Artic, I would like to use the EVGA Hybrid due to the design and AIO cooler.

Well then you can use the cooler without rgb. I just explained above why going from hp bios to evga bios wont work.

Heres a solution that don't require a bios swap either.

https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/products/cooling/vga.html

As a reminder, temperature depends on case airflow and Ambient Temperature the pc resides in.

It only makes a pc hotter if the airflow is crap and you are running it in hot air to begin with.
I noticed you updated your post.

The HP Obelisk has horrible cooling, it literally only has 1 92mm exhaust fan and no intake fans.

I've already swapped it out into a new case (NZXT 400i) and I now have 2 120mm intake fans and 1 120mm exhaust fan.

It didn't really help with the GPU temps, dropped maybe 1C.
 
i foresee a very expensive paperweight soon. Why didn't you buy the EVGA from the get go?
 
i foresee a very expensive paperweight soon. Why didn't you buy the EVGA from the get go?
I got this PC on a Black Friday deal for $1500.

Why is there so much risk of bricking? If a card is a reference design and you're flashing the bios of another reference design with its corresponding device ID, why is there risk?

What makes it ok or not ok when other people do this to get higher power limits, etc.

Just trying to learn and understand considering there is a whole section of bios and a tool to flash bios.
 
What makes it ok or not ok when other people do this to get higher power limits, etc.
It is not OK. The only time one should flash their bios to a newer one is if they are directed by the manufacturer if you are having a problem. People do it because they can and want to try something out. So since you flashed your gpu to a Zotac one and it works for a bit then all of a sudden it stops working and you RMA it, HP will see you put a different BIOS in it and will not cover the warranty work and now you are stuck with a very expensive paperweight. So unless you have a ton of free cash saved up to replace a RTX2080, I would recommend you flash it back to the HP bios you had. Some people have luck doing flashing gpu's most do not. Just click the link in @eidairaman1 sig line about bios.
 
I got this PC on a Black Friday deal for $1500.

Why is there so much risk of bricking? If a card is a reference design and you're flashing the bios of another reference design with its corresponding device ID, why is there risk?

What makes it ok or not ok when other people do this to get higher power limits, etc.

Just trying to learn and understand considering there is a whole section of bios and a tool to flash bios.

Sell the existing card get an EVGA.

/thread
 
It is not OK. The only time one should flash their bios to a newer one is if they are directed by the manufacturer if you are having a problem. People do it because they can and want to try something out. So since you flashed your gpu to a Zotac one and it works for a bit then all of a sudden it stops working and you RMA it, HP will see you put a different BIOS in it and will not cover the warranty work and now you are stuck with a very expensive paperweight. So unless you have a ton of free cash saved up to replace a RTX2080, I would recommend you flash it back to the HP bios you had. Some people have luck doing flashing gpu's most do not. Just click the link in @eidairaman1 sig line about bios.
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it. I flashed it back to HP the same day.

I'm thinking about doing the Kraken G12 instead but concerned about the VRM. Just need this card to run cooler.
 
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it. I flashed it back to HP the same day.

I'm thinking about doing the Kraken G12 instead but concerned about the VRM. Just need this card to run cooler.


I recently had a very warm 1070. I picked up some new thermal pads, reapplied thermal paste, and set a custom fan profile in the afterburner and all the issues were resolved. I'd recommend you do the same if you have the ability , it would cost about $10, & if you dont have TIM, another $9. Give it a day or two to set & for the pads to get right , & you'll be good.

Btw, what temps are you getting?
Also make sure you have adequate exhaust fans, because if it's 60° in your case ,that's the coolest your GPU will be at idle.

i believe your GPU uses
these .5mm pads
& these 1mm pads

ive used the brand i linked above, and they dropped my temps considerably.

Good Luck
 
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It's that Nvidia already did that for you. You can't make it an "A" chip just by flashing the BIOS.

But go right ahead. I ain't stoppin' ya. Just tellin' ya it's pointless is all. ;)
You must've misunderstood what I said, lol... I'm not trying to flash a "A" chip bios nor am I trying to make it perform like a "A" chip. I'm completely aware that this is not how it works.

I have a "B" chip with a device ID 10DE 1E82 (if thats what we want to call it.) "A" chips are 10DE 1E87 (from what I researched.)

The EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 BLACK EDITION GAMING is also a "B" chip with a "B" bios.

I wanted to flash that "B" bios to my card and I also want to replace my blower style card with this AIO that also fits reference design cards.

Why do I want the EVGA bios? Because the AIO has RGB that can be controlled inside of X1.

I'm doing this to lower my temps not performance.

I recently had a very warm 1070. I picked up some new thermal pads, reapplied thermal paste, and set a custom fan profile in the afterburner and all the issues were resolved. I'd recommend you do the same if you have the ability , it would cost about $10, & if you dont have TIM, another $9. Give it a day or two to set & for the pads to get right , & you'll be good.

Btw, what temps are you getting?
Also make sure you have adequate exhaust fans, because if it's 60° in your case ,that's the coolest your GPU will be at idle.

i believe your GPU uses
these .5mm pads
& these 1mm pads

ive used the brand i linked above, and they dropped my temps considerably.

Good Luck
Thank you! I will look into this.

Idle temp is 31C to 33C.

When playing any game at 1440P I hit 83C to 85C.
 
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you realise that the the bios has NOTHING Todo with RGB right
the card doesn't even have RGB headers or a controller for that matter its never going todo RGB no matter what you do w/o a external controller

the A/B revisions perform the same ( the b revision is accually better on a count of the early cards suffering from sudden death)


*grumbles //**

if its not matching the EVGA card in benchmarks there is a dozen other things that can cause that
1. at 85c thats the upper end of the boost curve its probly starting to pull clock

2. no system is ever going to perform identical

3. literally everything the op has said in this thread is wrong so god knows what ELSE is wrong
 
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you realise that the the bios has NOTHING Todo with RGB right
the card doesn't even have RGB headers or a controller for that matter its never going todo RGB no matter what you do w/o a external controller

the A/B revisions perform the same


look here kids this is perfect example of more money than brains, and knowing enough to hurt themselves

and if its not matching the EVGA card in benchmarks there is a dozen other things that can cause them
1. at 85c thats the upper end of the boost curve its probly starting to pull clock

2. no system is ever going to perform identical

3. literally everything the op has said in this thread is wrong so god knows what ELSE is wrong with his setup because a clue he doesn't have
Why so toxic? You could tell me what I'm wrong about, I'm here to learn. I atleast attempted to do some research and the things I posted are the things I've found, I can post them here too.

I'm not pulling anything out of thin air, just going off on what I've researched.

What I read is that you can change the RGB color through Precision X1 on the EVGA 2080 cards so I figured you would need a EVGA bios for the Precision X1 software to identify it so it gives me options to change the color AFTER I change my blower style card to a Hybrid EVGA kit.

Also, there is nothing wrong with my setup. I bought the PC and it had 1 exhaust fan and no intakes. I swapped everything into a NZXT 400i with 1 120mm exhaust and 2 120mm intake. It dropped my GPU temp 1C.
 
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Why so toxic? You could tell me what I'm wrong about, I'm here to learn. I atleast attempted to do some research and the things I posted are the things I've found, I can post them here too.

I'm not pulling anything out of thin air, just going off on what I've researched.

What I read is that you can change the RGB color through Precision X1 on the EVGA 2080 cards so I figured you would need a EVGA bios for the Precision X1 software to identify it so it gives me options to change the color AFTER I change my blower style card to a Hybrid EVGA kit.

Also, there is nothing wrong with my setup. I bought the PC and it had 1 exhaust fan and no intakes. I swapped everything into a NZXT 400i with 1 120mm exhaust and 2 120mm intake. It dropped my GPU temp 1C.
because you are dead set on wanting todo this even tho
1. your completely wrong
2. people have told you not to
3. you lack fundamental understanding about the things you are messing with
 
What I read is that you can change the RGB color through Precision X1 on the EVGA 2080 cards so I figured you would need a EVGA bios for the Precision X1 software to identify it so it gives me options to change the color AFTER I change my blower style card to a Hybrid EVGA kit.
Have you tried running Precision X1 on your unmodified card? Chances are that EVGA isn't gating the feature behind a subvendor ID check.

The Hybrid EVGA kit connects to the same pins where the Founders Edition lit-NVIDIA logo connects to?
 
Have you tried running Precision X1 on your unmodified card? Chances are that EVGA isn't gating the feature behind a subvendor ID check.

The Hybrid EVGA kit connects to the same pins where the Founders Edition lit-NVIDIA logo connects to?
On my 1080ti ftw I lose control over the rgb with the strix bios running vs stock, and I would expect similar if you tried this. Evga does some sort of check to separate their overboost on the kp cards so I would expect the model change to adjust. I would personally find a bios from one of thier aio cards so that pump and fan are set reasonably (I've added an aio to a 980 in this way)
 
Idle temp is 31C to 33C.

When playing any game at 1440P I hit 83C to 85C.


those idle temps show that your ambient temps & the temps inside your case are roughly low 30C. That is Good , & it also shows where the issue is likely stemming from. Before swapping any thermal pads, or flashing any Bios', id suggest you open Nvidia control panel, and go to "manage 3d settings">then to "power management mode" and set it to "adaptive", then hit the "apply" button at the bottom of the window. This helped me with lowering Load temps significantly. You wont see a idle change in temps likely, but your load temps should show a drop.

if setting "adaptive" doesnt show results, you can try "optimal power"

i hope this helps, Good Luck
Capture.PNG
 
Have you tried running Precision X1 on your unmodified card? Chances are that EVGA isn't gating the feature behind a subvendor ID check.

The Hybrid EVGA kit connects to the same pins where the Founders Edition lit-NVIDIA logo connects to?

I tried to run X1 and open LED Sync, it does not detect my HP 2080 which also has LEDs.

I believe the Hybrid Kit connects to the same pins because it fits reference design cards.
On my 1080ti ftw I lose control over the rgb with the strix bios running vs stock, and I would expect similar if you tried this. Evga does some sort of check to separate their overboost on the kp cards so I would expect the model change to adjust. I would personally find a bios from one of thier aio cards so that pump and fan are set reasonably (I've added an aio to a 980 in this way)
Thanks for the info and clarification, all their AIO cards are A chips, sadly I have a B. They have different device ID's and after what everyone has said above I feel skeptical to flash now.
those idle temps show that your ambient temps & the temps inside your case are roughly low 30C. That is Good , & it also shows where the issue is likely stemming from. Before swapping any thermal pads, or flashing any Bios', id suggest you open Nvidia control panel, and go to "manage 3d settings">then to "power management mode" and set it to "adaptive", then hit the "apply" button at the bottom of the window. This helped me with lowering Load temps significantly. You wont see a idle change in temps likely, but your load temps should show a drop.

if setting "adaptive" doesnt show results, you can try "optimal power"

i hope this helps, Good Luck
View attachment 114401
I greatly appreciate all the help and suggestions you've provided.

I tried this out and unfortunately it made no change.

Overall, thank you all for the help.
 
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