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Desktop Keeps Rebooting During Gaming

My BIOS are up to date. I already installed the latest update on the first day. I checked just in case with the live update, it also says BIOS are up to date. The live update suggests to install some utilities, such as Gaming APP, Command Center etc.
I'd skip the utilities. I do not install them myself. Try one last thing. Download and install FurMark and let it run for about an hour or so. I hope you have good case ventilation. You will need it.
 
I'd skip the utilities. I do not install them myself. Try one last thing. Download and install FurMark and let it run for about an hour or so. I hope you have good case ventilation. You will need it.
I also already tried Furmark several times. I even ran Furmark and Aida64 at the same time for around 50 minutes, no errors or reboots. After 50 minutes, temps were around 70. GPU 69, CPU 77 Maximum.

Oh, I only have stock fans on my case though. I am planning to buy 2 more to get some better airflow in the future.
 
I also already tried Furmark several times. I even ran Furmark and Aida64 at the same time for around 50 minutes, no errors or reboots. After 50 minutes, temps were around 70. GPU 69, CPU 77 Maximum.

Oh, I only have stock fans on my case though. I am planning to buy 2 more to get some better airflow in the future.

Then it could very well be your PSU. I hope the new PSU fixes your issues. I know the feeling man, its stressful. I've been there. Wish you the best!
 
Thanks man. Thank you all for your time and suggestions.

Prime95 is runnig with your suggested settings for 5 hours now, no errors. But some kind of chemical smell started to coming from the case, I guess it's from the CPU area. It is like a cleaning product smell so I turned off the test just in case.

I guess at this point, there is nothing more I can do to wait until the new PSU comes.

Edit: Not sure but the weird smell can also be coming from the PSU. I about to lose my sense of smelling by trying to sniff it too much, but I would say 30% CPU, %70 PSU.

Another edit: Okay I apologise for being totally nonsensical but now I think the smell is coming from my kitchen. It may very well be psychological.
 
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Thanks man. Thank you all for your time and suggestions.

Prime95 is runnig with your suggested settings for 5 hours now, no errors. But some kind of chemical smell started to coming from the case, I guess it's from the CPU area. It is like a cleaning product smell so I turned off the test just in case.

I guess at this point, there is nothing more I can do to wait until the new PSU comes.

Edit: Not sure but the weird smell can also be coming from the PSU. I about to lose my sense of smelling by trying to sniff it too much, but I would say 30% CPU, %70 PSU.

Another edit: Okay I apologise for being totally nonsensical but now I think the smell is coming from my kitchen. It may very well be psychological.

LOL you're cooking Ryzen cpus in your kitchen?
 
LOL you're cooking Ryzen cpus in your kitchen?
Hahahaha. No I think my neighbor downstairs was cleaning his house. I can pretty much smell anything they do down there weirdly.

Or my CPU or motherboard was cooking I don't know haha. I turned off the system now for couple hours just in case.
 
Hahahaha. No I think my neighbor downstairs was cleaning his house. I can pretty much smell anything they do down there weirdly.

Or my CPU or motherboard was cooking I don't know haha. I turned off the system now for couple hours just in case.


Have you by any chance looked at the VRM temps under load? I like HWinfo. Does a pretty good job. Though if your system passed the Prime95 custom run I told you of, I don't think there is much left to push. So far your gpu and psu are questionable.
 
Have you by any chance looked at the VRM temps under load? I like HWinfo. Does a pretty good job. Though if your system passed the Prime95 custom run I told you of, I don't think there is much left to push. So far your gpu and psu are questionable.
Yep I monitored all the temps with HWMonitor during tests. I don't remember the exact temps but they were also within normal range.

Huh.

After downclocking the GPU memory clock by -200 on MSI Afterburner(I first tried -100, rebooted again), I was able to finish a match at PES 2020. I will also test with other games normally causes crash too to see if it's stable or not.

Nope. 2nd match rebooted again. Went under -250 MHz, Modern Warfare Multiplayer rebooted again.

Ok first ever benchmark/stress test reboot. I downloaded Furmark ROG edition and ran it on 1440p with ROG+11 settings while artifact scanning is checked. After around 4 minutes mark the system rebooted. Temp was around 68 to the point of reboot.
 
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Yep I monitored all the temps with HWMonitor during tests. I don't remember the exact temps but they were also within normal range.

Huh.

After downclocking the GPU memory clock by -200 on MSI Afterburner(I first tried -100, rebooted again), I was able to finish a match at PES 2020. I will also test with other games normally causes crash too to see if it's stable or not.

Nope. 2nd match rebooted again. Went under -250 MHz, Modern Warfare Multiplayer rebooted again.

Ok first ever benchmark/stress test reboot. I downloaded Furmark ROG edition and ran it on 1440p with ROG+11 settings while artifact scanning is checked. After around 4 minutes mark the system rebooted. Temp was around 68 to the point of reboot.

At this point I am leaning more toward your GPU being the culprit. If you can navigate through MSI afterburner and enable memory monitoring, see if there is an option to monitor, VRM and VRAM temps. Also, using GPUZ you should be able to figure out who makes your VRAM. Is it Micron? Samsung? If it is Micron, I would try and find out what VRAM temperature is during load. Also GPU VRM temps.
 
I believe it's Samsung. At least GPU-z says so. Of course if I'm checking the correct section: Memory: GDDR6 (Samsung)

gpuz.JPG

About the VRAM temps, I have to admit I am a little confused. There is a section on HWInfo about VRM Temp, is it same with VRAM temp? If so, during load the VRM Temps were also around 70.

Ah, to be honest I didn't check the VRM temps, so I'm not sure about the temps during load. But at least in last 5 minutes, it was almost same as GPU Temp, around 30 C.
 
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When my 3600x setup was crashing during gaming it was a cpu voltage issue. I use a manual overclock of 4.225ghz and needed to boost the voltage a bit in order to fix the issue. Specifically it needed an extra .02 volts to run without crashing so in bios I went from 1.25 to 1.27 volts and system hasn't crashed since. It was stable in every test at the lower voltage too so it wasn't easy to track down the culprit.
 
When my 3600x setup was crashing during gaming it was a cpu voltage issue. I use a manual overclock of 4.225ghz and needed to boost the voltage a bit in order to fix the issue. Specifically it needed an extra .02 volts to run without crashing so in bios I went from 1.25 to 1.27 volts and system hasn't crashed since. It was stable in every test at the lower voltage too so it wasn't easy to track down the culprit.

He's not overclocking.
 
When my 3600x setup was crashing during gaming it was a cpu voltage issue. I use a manual overclock of 4.225ghz and needed to boost the voltage a bit in order to fix the issue. Specifically it needed an extra .02 volts to run without crashing so in bios I went from 1.25 to 1.27 volts and system hasn't crashed since. It was stable in every test at the lower voltage too so it wasn't easy to track down the culprit.
I'm not sure if it's the same thing, but according to CPU-Z, Core Voltage is changing around 1.2-.1.432.

I just checked my BIOS, the voltage settings are on Auto. I will upload the pic below just to be sure I'm talking about the same thing:

bios1.jpgbios2.jpg
 
I'm not sure if it's the same thing, but according to CPU-Z, Core Voltage is changing around 1.2-.1.432.

I just checked my BIOS, the voltage settings are on Auto. I will upload the pic below just to be sure I'm talking about the same thing:

View attachment 152097View attachment 152098

Your voltage settings are correct. Normal for a stock 3600x. Try resetting your BIOS to default settings. Run games and see if issue persists. If it does, set PBO to disabled.

BTW how are you running your RAM @3200mhz if your AXMP profile is disabled?? Manually?
 
Your voltage settings are correct. Normal for a stock 3600x. Try resetting your BIOS to default settings. Run games and see if issue persists. If it does, set PBO to disabled.

BTW how are you running your RAM @3200mhz if your AXMP profile is disabled?? Manually?

Yes manually. I tried to change it to 3200MHz to see if it will affect anything. It didn't.
 
He's not overclocking.
I saw you guys troubleshot it to a possible psu issue, just wanted to add my 2 cents.

I'm not sure if it's the same thing, but according to CPU-Z, Core Voltage is changing around 1.2-.1.432.

I just checked my BIOS, the voltage settings are on Auto. I will upload the pic below just to be sure I'm talking about the same thing:

View attachment 152097View attachment 152098
Only thing I can think of to boost voltage a bit on auto (assuming issue is simply voltage related like mine was) is Load Line Calibration, go into DigitALL Power in your bios and it should be in there, try setting it to one of the middle options instead of auto and test it. Don't use the highest option.

MSI_SnapShot.png
 
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Hello again. I would not use LLC unless you are manually overclocking. Leaving your voltage on AUTO and adding LLC will overshoot your voltages, possibly destroying your CPU. From experience, I'd advice you guys who use AMD Ryzen CPU's to simply stick to stock speeds, AUTO voltage, Enable PBO, get either Micron E-Die, or Samsung B-Die memory and tinker with the RAM, not the CPU speeds. AMD Ryzen CPU's are very capable CPU's out of the box, both for gaming and productivity. Like I said, just enable PBO and you're set to go- Let the motherboard take control.

Ram on the other hand is where the performance can be improved and make a huge difference. Micron E-Die and Samsung B-Die are well known IC's for overclocking and will definately boost your gaming performance when tweaking out the timings, and sub-timings. Use the Ryzen Calculator found here at Techpowerup. Download Thaiphoon burner to read your memory specs and get the information the calculator will ask you for. You DO NOT need to upload your memory profile into the calculator as many try to lead you to believe. I have tried this and followed the recommended settings and it in fact makes things unstable.

Just use the calculator without the RAM profile uploaded and set the correct info obtained from Thaiphoon burner to fill in the boxes with the information required and use the Safe setting or Fast setting. I bought a Ballistic Sport 3000Mhz CL15 16GB kit of RAM a while back which comes with E-Die IC's. This kit I am currently running at 3733Mhz CL16-19-16-16-36 TRFC 560 and other sub-timings tightened up. My read score is 52363MB, Write 51363MB, Copy 61035MB, and Latency 65.3. Running FarCry 5 using the included benchmark, my avg FPS went from 110 @1080p ultra settings, to 125FPS just by simply adjusting the memory.

Summing things up, do not overclock your Ryzen 3000 series CPU. Its not worth it unless you get one like mine. My Ryzen 3600 non-X model does 4.5Ghz on all cores, auto voltage, no LLC needed 24-7 stable. This is a golden sample as I call it :) Voltages stay around 1.43v under full load. Temps never go above 80c using my Noctua NH-D15. Just tweak your RAM and test every overclocking with PRIME95 Custom run 448 min FFT-4096 max FFT. Uncheck Run in place. Set Memory to Use to 80% of total sytem RAM. Run test for at least 2 hours. If your system passes this hellish run, congratulations. You are one of the few out there that actually has a true stable RAM overclock. Cheers.
 
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OK, I know I am repeating myself but, I just finished an almost 2 hours gameplay of Read Dead Redemption 2 a minute ago. With all the settings maxed out. No crashes or reboots. While the system crashes on PES 2020 or Football Manager, it's just weird. I did reversed all the BIOS settings to default, but didn't turn off the PMO. I didn't try the games usually caused crash too, I guess I just don't want to experience any other reboot.

I wasn't particularly happy with the performance but I think it was understandable. Never went under 30 FPS but still wasn't really smooth.

Also, I think the shadows were a little off, kind of like a grained(or noisy) photo(I saved some clips just in case).

Anyway, I probably have the new PSU tomorrow, around afternoon. I guess I will just wait then.
 
@Harry Palms
PBO should not be used (there is no conclusive proof it always will improve perf) especially not on a rig with stock fans.
b-die isnt always a guarantee (the 2 i tried only did xmp 18/22/1T@1.37, the non-e micron i have does 16/19/1T@1.35),
and going past 1800 mhz isnt useful for most, considering IF will run at lower speed.
prime95 isnt bulletproof, and stuff can still be unstable even if it passes P95 test.
 
Guys, I got the new PSU, Seasonic Focus Plus 750W 80+ Gold. And, so far it's working!

I just played 2 games on Modern Warfare Multiplayer. Now I will try PES 2020.
 
PES 2020 also working. No reboots during a match, although I was able to finish a match occasionally with my old Corsair PSU too.

I am still having some anxiety while playing games though, I think I can relax after couple of days with stability. I really hope I will not update this thread with another cry for help :).

Apart from that, I really want to thank all of you. I learned a lot of thing while trying to understand the problem and trying your solutions or instructions. I genuinely thank you all.

But, I am little curious about why the PSU was causing reboot only on certain games at certain points? Could it be poorly optimized games forcing the GPU(or CPU or RAM)requiring more power at one point and the PSU can't handle that?

Now I guess I will focus on some better airflow on my case. I am looking at some 140mm fans.
 
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@Harry Palms
PBO should not be used (there is no conclusive proof it always will improve perf) especially not on a rig with stock fans.
b-die isnt always a guarantee (the 2 i tried only did xmp 18/22/1T@1.37, the non-e micron i have does 16/19/1T@1.35),
and going past 1800 mhz isnt useful for most, considering IF will run at lower speed.
prime95 isnt bulletproof, and stuff can still be unstable even if it passes P95 test.

Sounds like you got rebuttal to everything I have to say. Reminds me of my wife lol. I don't want to get into a right or wrong discussion. But it does sound like your opinion on every single point you touched on is based on your very own experience, irrelevant to the context.

It is a very well known little fact Samsung B-Die and Micro E-Die are good ic's for overclocking. Never said it is garranteed.

PBO has been proven to help in single core performance, especially in games. Granted not a whole lot, but it does help under the right conditions.

I have tested quite a few RAM kits using various settings with multiple boards, namely X570 boards and have seen dramatic improvements in performance while running 1:1 ratio @1866mhz. Even at 1900mhz or 3800mhz CL16-16-16-39 1:1 ratio. 15-20 fps improvements on avg.

Prime95 custom run is the way to go when testing for RAM stability using the afor mentioned settings. Period.

When in doubt, please read again.

Copy.png
Latency.png
Read.png
Write.png
 
@Harry Palms
the fact your comparing me to someone else based on posts in a forum, tells me a lot, independent of right/wrong stuff.

my problem is you telling someone to turn on pbo, on a rig that already has stability issues.
or recommending to go up in mhz/lower timings, again, on a rig with stability issues, not someone looking to squeeze out the last drop of performance.
or stating to not oc ryzen, yet thats what pbo does (goes past stock settings).
 
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