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Why the f*ck not? - a bad ideas only build, by Mussels!

Got a GTX 780 3GB, so of course its going in this build cause its dead.

You all know what that means riiiight? WORLDS WORST OVEN BAKING TIME

Tin foil? no way, thats for conspiracy nutters - we use good for the environment baking paper here!
For worst results, use a dirty oven. Cleaning is a good thing, and does not belong here.
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Rip these suckers off with pliers, they ruin the taste of the burned cheese on the baking tray. Dont keep track of which way they were facing either, you want to guess when you reattach them later.
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This image is upside down because i hate you.
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Slap it in for 20? minutes at Hot? (centigrade only you american heathens)

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Sit down and enjoy a hot beverage with BISCUITS, NOT COOKIES in your personalised XL TPU mug and wait!
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STAY TUNED FOR THE RESULT!
 
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If only I could leave two reactions for this post!! :D :D
 
RGB strip added (mobo only supports red LED, perfect!)
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Bios: Updated!
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Card: still fucked
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Code 43 bitches, she's a source of spare parts now
 
Mussels said:
Code 43 bitches, she's a source of spare parts now
Click to expand...
Not all is lost. You might have not mentioned it, or you might have missed a step in your oven-reflow attempt. Did you use solder flux under the gpu itself? If not, the oven process will have not had a fair chance to work. You see, flux getting in under the gpu between it and the board will cause the solder to "ball up" and reconnect with all of contacts of each pad. Without solder all you did was remelt the solder which only has a mild chance of reconnection. The flux is an important key step in the process of any reflow job. So if you didn't use flux, get yourself some rosin flux fluid in an injector bottle and be generous with it's application(too much flux will hurt nothing and is easily cleaned off).
I use stuff like this on every reflow job I do and it rarely fails! That card is posting and mostly working. This indicates that the solder balls between the gpu and the board might have one or two minor faults that would very likely be resolved with the use of flux and another reheat cycle.
 
lexluthermiester said:
Not all is lost. You might have not mentioned it, or you might have missed a step in your oven-reflow attempt. Did you use solder flux under the gpu itself? If not, the oven process will have not had a fair chance to work. You see, flux getting in under the gpu between it and the board will cause the solder to "ball up" and reconnect with all of contacts of each pad. Without solder all you did was remelt the solder which only has a mild chance of reconnection. The flux is an important key step in the process of any reflow job. So if you didn't use flux, get yourself some rosin flux fluid in an injector bottle and be generous with it's application(too much flux will hurt nothing and is easily cleaned off).
I use stuff like this on every reflow job I do and it rarely fails! That card is posting and mostly working. This indicates that the solder balls between the gpu and the board might have one or two minor faults that would very likely be resolved with the use of flux and another reheat cycle.
Click to expand...


fascinating, no i dont have any solder flux... i'll look into this for next time
 
Mussels said:
fascinating, no i dont have any solder flux... i'll look into this for next time
Click to expand...
It's a GTX780, it's older, but worth the effort to attempt restoring.
BTW, forgot you were down under and found something similar on Amazon Au;
Still a reasonable price, and it's specifically aimed at reflow/reball work.
 
lexluthermiester said:
It's a GTX780, it's older, but worth the effort to attempt restoring.
BTW, forgot you were down under and found something similar on Amazon Au;
Still a reasonable price, and it's specifically aimed at reflow/reball work.
Click to expand...

$22Au shipped, ordered to give it a shot. When it arrives i bet i'll forget what it was for.
 
If it works, a ~$20 investment for a GTX 780 aint a bad trade.

If it doesnt, i get to burn more old cheese in the oven
 
Mussels said:
If it works, a ~$20 investment for a GTX 780 aint a bad trade.

If it doesnt, i get to burn more old cheese in the oven
Click to expand...
My prediction, and I'm being deliberately optimistic, is that it is more likely to work than not. The reasoning behind that is simple, the card is posting, booting into Windows and therefore can do 2D/desktop work. If it doesn't work on the first application, try a second and third time. It can take the flux a few heating cycles to work it's way to the center of the GPU BGA.
 
This thread inspired me to do something dumb for my main PC

Mainly, connect the ARGB controller the coolermaster case came with to my corsair lighting.

4 -1 (3 pin with a blank) at one end, i-cue 3 pin extension at the other and bad soldering in the middle
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Now i can click my reset button and control my corsair devices, no software needed!
 
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This bad idea just let me link a bunch of software together as well

Asus aura sync -> Asus aura connect -> razer synapse 3

So now when i play killing floor 2,ALL my RGB goes nuts for the game lighting
 
Mussels said:
This bad idea just let me link a bunch of software together as well

Asus aura sync -> Asus aura connect -> razer synapse 3

So now when i play killing floor 2,ALL my RGB goes nuts for the game lighting
Click to expand...
Where’s the video GIF? I want to see it.
 
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couldnt upload directly
 
i then totally and utterly removed ALL that software because as cool as it looked a 5% performance loss wasnt worth it. I like the way synapse can do it over the wifi with just network traffic, without smashing my damn CPU. (asus/icue dropped a 5250 cinebench score to 4900!)


Oh yeah that stuff has arrived, remind me how to use it and i'll give it a shot

wait i forgot which thread it was, slapped that shit everywhere and shes in the oven

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Mussels said:
Oh yeah that stuff has arrived, remind me how to use it and i'll give it a shot
Click to expand...
Really very simple, just inject it into the small space between the GPU wafer and the PCB of the card. Inject at an angle so the fluid can have gravity help it seep through. Once you see it coming out the other side, evenly, you're ready for the heating cycle. Same temp as before, no longer than 7 minutes.
 
Uhhh so i didnt wait for instructions, poured the shit everywhere and hoped for the best

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It looked fine coming out
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i used my keyboard brush to remove any stubborn transistor thingys and thermal paste
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Booted "fine"
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Now doing 3D testing! stay tuned!
 
Ooooookay, after a few artifacty crashes at 2D it settled in and gave me colour and works fine now

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I should probably put thermal paste on there now, it might help (65C max, i guess the crap leftover on the heatsink was enough)
 
Mussels said:
Uhhh so i didnt wait for instructions, poured the shit everywhere and hoped for the best

92c31apgjk.jpg
Click to expand...
Oh my, that stuff isn't as liquid as the stuff I use... but...
Mussels said:
It looked fine coming out
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Click to expand...
..it looks like it soaked in ok.
Mussels said:
I should probably put thermal paste on there now, it might help (65C max, i guess the crap leftover on the heatsink was enough)
Click to expand...
Um, hell yes? LOL! Seems like a win though. :rockout:
Valley or Superposition it, in a Window not full screen, for 60mins to see if it stays stable... AFTER you put some TIM on... :slap: :peace:

Gut feeling though, looks like you middled it!
 
yeah i made it up as i went along but she seems solid now, can go in the scrap parts PC for sale
 
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